• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.130-144
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• 2008

A recent concern about Goguryeo era reflects the efforts to find out our spiritual roots, which have descended from the ancient times; Goguryeo clothing study leads to analysis of our national spirit in terms of form. This study aims to analyze formal property and intrinsic meaning of Goguryeo clothing for Korean ramie clothing design and draw traditional images to derive design elements applicable to ramie clothing. On the basis of technical books, newspaper article, internet and precedent studies, theoretical study on Goguryeo clothing and ramie property was followed up with positive study to analyze the clothing on the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural. The results are as follows: First, a progressive spirit is to progress and develop anything actively; This spirit represents Goguryeo people's ambition and racial characteristic as horse-riding people; The rigidity of ramie fabric is suitable for expressing straight silhouettes and detail in Goguryeo dress. Second, a fluidity means flowing property in opposition to fixation; in the case of clothing, it has a tendency to change form according to body motions; The extensibility and crease-resistance of ramie fabric is suitable to express pleated skirts and holds high design value for modern people who tend to regard clothing as important individuality expression. Third, a universal property to introduce and receive; as Goguryeo was a prosperous country established by conquering an open plain, the period formed a society that recognized diversity by introducing foreign cultures freely; a universality suggests the direction of modernization of traditional ramie clothing and stimulates us to discovert new design through compromise between various cultures rather than to stick to traditional style. Considering the fact that precedent studies on traditional clothing are concentrated upon the Joseon period and also limited to formal analysis, this study aims to derive design elements for actual clothing making. These results are expected to be used as basic material for study as well as reference for designers who wish to design modern Korean clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.71-85
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to study the beauty-coordination characteristics of Genderless fashion, which is emerging as a new trend by analyzing the trend in the latest collection and classify the resulting expression characteristics of make-up. Methods and scope of the study were based on collections published in the 2020 S/S season and 35 out of 84 designers with design elements were selected to analyze the garments most likely to be genderless. The characteristics of the expression of the genderless derived through this analysis were classified into compromise, androgyny, sensuality, exaggeration, enjoyment, and historicity. Compromise was the highest, and the lowest was for enjoyment of the classifications. The designer's work according to the characteristics of each expression shows that the pieces by Saint Laurent were the highest in compromise, sensuality, and historicity, and the pieces by Maison Margiela were the highest in androgyny while Balenciaga was the highest in exaggeration and enjoyment. Compromise represented a mixture of discord, such as incongruous bonding and coloring of heterogeneous materials, and androgyny led to the use of silhouettes and colors, with sensuality utilizing see-through material and incision lines allowing for physical exposure. Exaggeration intentionally destroyed the existing concept by breaking the overall balance of the human body through the enlargement of certain parts of the body, while enjoyment showed unexpectedness by destroying the line and sides of the garment. Lastly, historicity was analyzed for its retro design that transcends time and space with regional cultural and period characteristics.

• The korean journal of orthodontics
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.28-35
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• 2014

Objective: To determine Korean facial profile preferences based on lip position as assessed by Hispanic-Americans of varying western adaptation levels and to determine whether the age and sex of the rater had any influence. Methods: For this study, 132 Hispanic-Americans and 68 Caucasians of varying age, sex and western adaptation levels volunteered to rate their preference of Korean male and female facial silhouettes having lips ranging from retruding to protruding. The Hispanic-Americans were also asked to complete a Bidimensional Acculturation Scale questionnaire to determine their western adaptation status: low-acculturated Hispanics (LAH; lesser western-adapted Hispanic participants) or high-acculturated Hispanics (HAH; higher western-adapted Hispanic participants). Results: The LAHs preferred significantly more retruded lip positions (p < 0.05) while HAHs showed some similarities with Caucasian participants in the results for the Korean male profile, even though HAHs preferred more retruded lip positions for the Korean female profile than Caucasians did (p < 0.05). The age and sex of raters did not influence the preference of facial profiles (p > 0.05). Conclusions: The results of this study suggest that Hispanic-Americans prefer a flatter Korean lip profile. It would be prudent for orthodontists to offer patients the option of altering lip profile through orthodontic and/or orthognathic surgery treatments.

• The korean journal of orthodontics
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• 제48권1호
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• pp.11-22
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• 2018

Objective: The aim of this study was to determine cephalometric factors that help predict favorable soft-tissue profile outcomes following treatment with the Class II Twin-block appliance. Methods: Pre- and post-treatment lateral cephalograms of 45 patients treated with the Class II Twin-block appliance were retrospectively analyzed. Profile silhouettes were drawn from the cephalograms and evaluated by three orthodontists in order to determine the extent of improvement. Samples were divided into a favorable group (upper 30% of visual analogue scale [VAS] scores, n = 14) and an unfavorable group (lower 30% of VAS scores, n = 14). Skeletal and soft-tissue measurements were performed on the cephalograms and an intergroup comparison was conducted. Results: An independent t-test revealed that the following pre-treatment values were lower in the favorable group compared to the unfavorable group: lower incisor to mandibular plane angle, lower incisor to pogonion distance, point A-nasion-point B angle, sella-nasion line (SN) to maxillary plane angle, SN to mandibular plane angle, gonial angle, and symphysis inclination. The favorable group had a larger incisor inclination to occlusal plane. Moreover, the favorable group showed larger post-treatment changes in gonial angle, B point projection, and pogonion projection than did the unfavorable group. Conclusions: Class II malocclusion patients with a low divergent skeletal pattern and reduced lower incisor protrusions are likely to show more improvement in soft-tissue profile outcomes following Class II Twin-block treatment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.153-167
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• 2004

Korea had suffered the colony of Japanese imperialism and the Korean War from the invasion of the external circumstances. Such special situation made new influences on the clothing habits. The types of Korean women clothing could escape from the traditional style that had been maintained for thousands of years. The foreign clothes for Korean women had undergone various changes from the Liberation in 1945. The jackets that had been introduced to Korea at the Enlightenment period had become popular outfits for men. The jackets made big influences on the changes such as the social advances for women from the times background of the Liberation. The jackets possess very important meaning for the changes in the diffusion of feminism and fashion. Therefore, this research tries to investigate the forms, silhouettes, changes and structures of the jackets such as the locations of the collar, the sleeve, and the waste line. The process of the changes in the style of women jackets is also analyzed from the silhouette and the structure method. The development and changes will be understood of Korean women's jackets. The Korean women's jackets should also be examined further with the history of foreign clothing from now on. The fashion to be introduced from important society cultural phenomena and the Western Europe has been reflected into the changes in the style of Korean female jackets. Also, dramatic changes in the style of clothing indicate that the society had experienced a great deal of changes. It is verified that foreign clothes have been interacted with the stream of times worldwide. After the Liberation, the female jackets become a uniform style which just followed the Western European style. However, a season trend has been announced from the SFAA since 1990. Since then trendy jackets have been detailed more with this chance.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.157-169
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• 2012

The aim of this study is to serve as a stepping stone to outlook changes in men's fashion based on gender characteristics and the design proposal as a reference to shirts design for men's wear brands. This study is a theoretical work extracted from related books, dissertations, and web- resources referenced. Research method is as followed. It is based on the four main collections from S/S 2001 to S/S 2010 and selected designer brands among the most influential foreign men's fashion designer brands which have show cased their collections of 19 seasons in the last 10 years. These are what the study has found out. Firstly, the shoulder-line which used to be straight and hard in men's dress shirt has changed to comfortable curved line which falls from the shoulder to sleeve. Silhouettes were mainly shaped to an hourglass or slim silhouette representing the body curve line. Unlike how the masculine beauty was emphasized through the straight line, men's dress shirts nowadays used curved line for softness. Secondly, there were various designs with decorations added to the basic structure, making it no different from women's blouse and blurring the line between men's and women's fashion. Thirdly, colors were normally in bright ones. Tones were often in pale tone which used to be the women's color. Also choosing shades of yellow or red was a remarkable change in men's wear. Fourthly, through varying patterns and texture there were many shirts that gave clear visual effect. There were approximately equal portions of patterns with feminine image like natural patterns, abstract patterns, or small patterns and patterns with masculine image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.86-99
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• 2007

In this study, the concept of play as an entertainment is redefined and applicable method of fashion design as a play are suggested by analyzing the feature of doll's costume design based on the play pattern. In literary study, the role of playing doll Is described and has been examined by the analysis of scholars' opinions. In positive study, the pattern and costume design of sample costume dolls are analyzed using 624 samples of the representative images collected from the literatures and real figures, and they are classified as collection dolls or fashion dolls in order to analyze the feature of fashion design in playing dolls. As a result of the analysis of doll's costumes based on its use, the costumers are divided into a real world costume which is similar to what human wear in daily life and a virtual costume which is used in the movie or play and the costumes only worn by the dolls. The examination of the type of costume worn by dolls, dress is principally dominant costume in collection doll, whereas in fashion doll, dress is still mainly worn but shirt blouse & pants, shirt blouse k skirt, jacket, coat, bathing suit. etc. are shown dispersedly as well. In the costume silhouette of dolls, collection doll uses mostly A line silhouette meanwhile fit and flare is mostly used in the fashion doll but other silhouettes are also relatively shown a lot. In the means of the color of the costume worn by dolls, collection doll is more similar to those in actual fashion design. On the contrary, the color of the costume that fashion doll is put on is more free and more various because the trendy rotors such as green, yellow, purple, etc are used.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제57권9호
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• pp.110-123
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• 2007

This study is purposed to analyze the characteristics of different images of Hollywood movie costumes centering on the costumes of actresses who are the fashion leaders creating fashions especially focusing on those in 1930s. The scope of this study covers the movie costumes selected from the movies ranging from 1930 to 1939 centering on the Hollywood movies produced and released by large movie distributors and the movie costumes of heroins that exerted great influences on the culture and clothing history of 1930s were examined. As for the methods of study, visual data and image data including movies were collected through related dissertations, articles in journals, internet sites relating to movies and photos and we have analyzed each of the characteristics of the movie costumes appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. Firstly, ethnic images were the reflection of orientalism that was popular in the fashion of the age with the purpose of highlighting the exotic appearances of the actresses and were the cases where the characters of the actresses had to be expressed in ethnic styles due to the spatial backgrounds of movie works. Secondly, glamorous images were highlighting the appeals of plump breasts, shoulder lines and the bodies constricted in the middle and the Hollywood movie costumes in 1930s. The smooth and flowing silhouettes of the heroins of the age were mainly long and slim patterns and female's images were expressed by highlighting the beauty of leg lines or especially by halter neck evening dresses that exposed backs and covered breasts. Thirdly, mannish images reflected tough images of males in order to further highlight the reality of the characters of the heroins of the age pursuant to the emergence of the opinions advocating the equality between men and women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제64권5호
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• pp.18-29
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• 2014

Modern male has displayed an increased desire to express their social influence and image, and the male fashion market has had to provide various styles and images to fill these needs. The current domestic menswear market, however, is unable to satisfy the needs of male consumers who have a need for diversity in a rapidly changing society; more segmented fashion images and styles are needed. The purposes of this study are to classify fashion images and to establish character of the types. This study was done by performing a literature review and a survey. This study proposed 10 categories of fashion style images. Men's fashion style is classified into the classic image, sophisticated image, urban casual image, chic modern image, mods modern image, basic casual image, ethnic image, avant-garde image, active & outdoor image, and street-kitsch image. In the case of the classic images, common in formal setting, men's formal wear is the main focus with the classic suit. The sophisticated image is that of a colorful formal wear seasoned with elegance. Urban casual image is contemporary image, and therefore is meant for city life wear. Chic and modern image conveys an urban image by seeking a simple and chic feel. Mods modern image is retro yet dandy, giving off a sense of youthfulness compared to the other classic images. Ethnic image expresses the exotic quality of folklore as the main representatives of the character casual wear. Avant garde image portrays strong character casual wear with oversized silhouettes or exaggerated details. Active & Outdoor image is leisure life wear conveying active, functional images. Street Kitsch image is men's street casual wear with graphic patterns such as pop art and graffiti. This study's significance lies in its presentation of fashion style data, which can be utilized in the design and marketing of fashion targeted to males.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.439-448
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• 2018

This thesis intends to suggest a new wedding dress pattern through researches on history and changes of wedding dress, researches on silhouette and details and analyses of existing basic patterns. In this study, to develop torso patterns of top dresses selected as preferred designs through literature reviews and company surveys, dress form sizes suitable for standard sizes were selected and study basic patterns were made using draping techniques. The study finds characteristics of body type dimension that is changed when wearing brassiere (hereinafter, 'bra') for wedding dress through customer surveys for development of basic patterns of wedding dress. That is, wearing wedding bra was used for the purpose of increasing the bust size and we will evaluate later whether this increase helps completeness of aesthetic impression through wearing evaluation. As the result, it was found out that top torso pattern wearing wedding bra made wearers feel more comfortable and in the aspect of aesthetic impression, it provided impacts on women's beautiful silhouettes. The effects of whether a bra is used or not on changes in patterns were reviewed through the degree of polymerization of finished patterns. When a bra for dresses was worn, the waist front length increased by1.7cm, the bust circumference increased by 2.1cm, and the amount of dart increased by 1.5cm in the patterns. A new torso pattern for top dresses, which will solve problems evaluated in each of the above from the aspect of composition of pattern by a method through analysis of existing basic patterns and multi-dimensional cut patterns wearing wedding bra, will be suggested.