• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.5B
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• pp.301-312
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• 2012

This study investigates the wave height distributions in front of a perforated wall generated by obliquely incident monochromatic waves through laboratory experiments conducted in a wave basin. Attention is paid to the difference or similarity between a plain wall and a perforated wall. And the investigation is focused on the chamber width and side wall effects of a perforated wall on the propagation characteristics of waves. The main results of this study show that the normalized wave height along a perforated wall is a significant difference compare to a plain wall cases. The side wall in the chamber suppresses the growth of the stem waves.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.62-67
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• 2010

Swells occurred on the coast of the East Sea on February 24, 2008 caused a loss of three lives and also damaged several west coasts of Japan. The recent increase of swell intensity with number of accidents demands more accurate forecasting of swells in terms of time and location. The swells occurred in February 2008 are hindcasted using SWAN model to examine the accuracy of the model for future forecasting. The model results are compared with ReWW3 data as well as measurement wave data and specially, wave spectrum is analysed by comparing with observed spectrum at two wave stations located in the east coast of Korea. The SWAN model shows similar results with observation data in terms of significant wave heights and swell arrival time but the shapes of wave spectrum are different between model and in-situ measurement data. For further improvement of swell forecasting, more comparison and analysis with observed wave spectrum is necessary and wave directional spectrum data are required to study on the characteristics of swells in the East Sea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.273-283
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• 2020

Numerical simulations of the storm surge and waves induced by the Typhoon Bolaven incident on the west sea of Korea in 2012 are performed using the JMA-MSM weather field provided by the Japan Meteorological Agency, and the calculated surge heights are compared with the time history observed at harbours along the various coasts of Korea. For the waves occurring coincidentally with the storm surges the calculated significant wave heights are compared with the data measured using the wave buoys operated by the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency and the Korea Meteorological Administration. Additional simulations are also performed based on the pressure and wind fields obtained using the best track information provided by the Joint Typhoon Warning Center, and the calculated results are compared and analyzed. The waves and storm surges calculated using JMA-MSM wether field agree well with the observations because of the better reflection of the topography and the pre-background weather field. On the other hand, the calculated results based on the weather fields produced using the JTWC best track information show some limitations of the general trend of the variations of wave and surge heights. Based on the results of this study it is found that the reliable weather fields are essential for the accurate simulation of storm surges and waves.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.43 no.3 s.147
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• pp.384-391
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• 2006

RCS effects of long-crested wave surfaces to marine targets are numerically analyzed using a 4-path model and a direct analysis method, developed based on physical optics and a combined method of physical optics/geometric optics, respectively. Reflectivity of long-crested wave surfaces is described with 'Fresnel reflection coefficients' The MPM(modified Pierson-Moskowitz) ocean spectrum is adopted to simulate long-crested waves in the direct analysis method. A numerical analysis of a benchmark model assures the validity of both methods. The direct analysis method is applied to the RCS calculation of electromagnetically large marine targets, which are vertically oriented or slanted to the long crested wave surfaces randomly generated with various significant wave heights. The long-crested wave surface much highly increases the RCS of the marine target, but those effects are decreased as the significant wave height grows up. At low elevation angle, the vertical model has entirely high RCS comparing slanted model, and the RCS of vertical flat plate is the highest on the calm sea surface, while those of slanted flat plates are the lowest on the calm sea surface. The RCS of marine targets on continuously-varying sea surface is more coherent at lower elevation angles, as well.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.274-284
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• 2003

The analysis of wave parametric characteristics in sea regions in the vicinity of Korean Peninsula have been carried out using the third generation wave model, WAVEWATCH-III (Tolman, 1999) and four observed buoy data of Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA). Significant wave height increases about 2-3 hours later after the increase of wind speed. Maximum correlation coefficient between two parameters appears in Donghae buoy data, which is at off-shore region. When land breeze occurs, it can be found that the correlation coefficient decreases. Time differences between wind speeds and wave heights correspond to significant tidal periods at all of the buoy locations except for Donghae buoy. After verifying the WAVEWATCH-III model results by the comparing with observed buoy data, we have carried out numerical experiments near the Kuroshio current and East Sea areas, and then reconfirmed that when there exist an opposite strong current in the propagation direction of the waves or wind direction, wave height and length get higher and shorter, respectively and vice versa. It has been shown that these modulations of wave parameters are considerable when wind speed is week or mean current is relatively strong, and corresponding values have been represented.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.441-458
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• 2023

Tropical cyclones frequently occur in the Southwest Pacific Ocean and are considered one of the driving forces for coastal alterations. Therefore, this study investigates the frequency and intensity of tropical cyclonesfrom 2000 to 2021 and their influence on the surface winds and wave conditions around the atoll nation Tuvalu. Cyclone best-track and ERA5 single-level reanalysis data are utilized to analyze the condition of the surface winds, significant wave heights, mean wave direction, and mean wave period. Additionally, the scatterometer-derived wind information was employed to compare wind conditions with the ERA5 data. On average, nine cyclones per year originated here, and the frequency increased to 11 cyclones during the last three years while the intensity decreased by 25 m/s (maximum sustained wind speed). Besides, a total of 14 cyclones were observed around Tuvalu during the period from 2015 to 2021, which showed an increase of 3 cyclones compared to the preceding period of 2001 to 2007. During cyclones, the significant wave height reached the highest 4.8 m near Tuvalu, and the waves propagated in the east-southeast direction during most of the cyclone events (52%). In addition, prolonged swells with a mean wave period of 7 to 11 seconds were generated in the vicinity of Tuvalu, for which coastal alteration can occur. After this preliminary analysis, it was found that the waves generated by cyclones have a crucial impact in altering the coastal area of Tuvalu. In the future, remotely sensed high-resolution satellite data with this wave information will be used to find out the degree of alterations that happened in the coastal area of Tuvalu before and after the cyclone events.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.1455-1462
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• 2013

This study examines the reflection of a partially perforated wall with single chamber by 2D and 3D hydraulic experiments. The effects of slit shape on the front wall, relative chamber width and wave steepness were discussed. For the normal incident wave condition, the reflections of horizontal slit case were lower than that of the vertical slit with the similar porosity, but the differences are not significant. When the wave steepness is relatively small, the reflection coefficients are large. In the oblique incidence, the normalized wave heights along a perforated wall with similar porosity are almost same for the vertical and horizontal slit walls and therefore the difference by slit shape can be ignored.

• The Journal of Korean Institute of Electromagnetic Engineering and Science
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• v.28 no.10
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• pp.788-793
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• 2017

This paper presents the verification of accuracies of theoretical models for calculating the microwave reflections from rough sea surfaces. First of all, the Pierson-Moskowitz ocean spectrum was used to generate the rough sea surfaces. Then the relationship between the significant wave heights, root-mean-square(RMS) heights and wind speed was derived by estimating the significant wave heights and RMS heights of the generated sea surfaces according to various wind speeds, and compared the derived relationship with other measurement data sets. The reflection coefficients of the sea surfaces were calculated by using a numerical method(the moment method). Then, the numerical results were compared with Ament model, PO(Physical Optics) model, GO(Geometrical Optics) model and B-M(Brown-Miller) model for various roughness conditions(wind speed) and incidence angles. It was found that the Ament model is not accurate except for a very low roughness conditions($kh_{rms}$<0.4, k is wavenumber and $h_{rms}$ is RMS height). It was also found that at incidence angles lower than $70^{\circ}$, the PO and the GO models agree well with the numerical results, while the B-M model agrees well with the numerical analysis results at incidence angles higher than $80^{\circ}$ for very rough sea surfaces with $kh_{rms}$>10.

• Ocean Science Journal
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.245-254
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• 2006

Long term wave climate of both extreme wave and operational wave height is essential for planning and designing coastal structures. Since the field wave data for the waters around Korean peninsula is not enough to provide reliable wave statistics, the wave climate information has been generated by means of long-term wave hindcasting using available meteorological data. Basic data base of hindcasted wave parameters such as significant wave height, peak period and direction has been established continuously for the period of 25 years starting from 1979 and for major 106 typhoons for the past 53 years since 1951 for each grid point of the North East Asia Regional Seas with grid size of 18 km. Wind field reanalyzed by European Center for Midrange Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) was used for the simulation of waves for the extra-tropical storms, while wind field calculated by typhoon wind model with typhoon parameters carefully analyzed using most of the available data was used for the simulation of typhoon waves. Design wave heights for the return period of 10, 20, 30, 50 and 100 years for 16 directions at each grid point have been estimated by means of extreme wave analysis using the wave simulation data. As in conventional methodsi of design criteria estimation, it is assumed that the climate is stationary and the statistics and extreme analysis using the long-term hindcasting data are used in the statistical prediction for the future. The method of extreme statistical analysis in handling the extreme vents like typhoon Maemi in 2003 was evaluated for more stable results of design wave height estimation for the return periods of 30-50 years for the cost effective construction of coastal structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.491-497
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• 2008

The effect of wave and current interactions on jet-like current flowing against waves was investigated based on numerical simulations. The numerical simulations were conducted using a model system of REF/DIF(a wave model) and SHORECIRC(a current model). In the simulations, irregular waves refracted due to the jet-like opposing current were focused along the centerline of current, and the jet-like current was spreaded earlier when the wave heights become larger. The numerical results show that the rapid change of wave height distribution in transverse direction near current inlet plays a significant role to spread the jet-like current. In other words, the radiation stress gradients acting in transverse direction have a more significant effect on the jet-like current than its gradients acting in flowing direction which tend to accelerate the current do. In conclusion, it is indispensible to take into account the interaction between waves and current when the jet-like current such as river mouth meets opposing waves.