• Title/Summary/Keyword: significant wave heights

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Spatial Distribution of Wave Overtopping along Vertical Structure due to Obliquely Incident Waves (경사입사파에 의한 직립구조물에서 월파의 공간적 분포)

  • Kim, Young-Taek;Lee, Jong-In;Cho, Yong-Sik
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.414-421
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    • 2011
  • In determination of the crest height of a vertical structure against attacking of obliquely incident waves, most of existing studies have suggested to use the overtopping reduction factor due to incident angles. However, they have not considered the amplification of wave heights and the spatial distribution of wave overtopping. In this study, a spatial distribution of overtopping due to the amplification of wave heights along a vertical structure is investigated experimentally. It is recommended that the crest height can be determined by the same manner as that for normally incident waves up to 3 significant wave lengths from the one end of the structure. However, the rest part of the structure can be done by employing the overtopping reduction factor with considering the amplification of wave heights and the spatial distribution of wave overtopping.

Experimental Study on Reduction of Rup-Up Height of Sloping Breakwater due to Submerged Structure (수중 구조물에 의한 경사식 방파제의 처오름 감소에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • Park, Seung-Hyun;Lee, Seung-Oh;Jung, Tae-Hwa;Cho, Yong-Sik
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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    • v.7 no.5
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    • pp.187-197
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    • 2007
  • Experimental study for a submerged structure was conducted to protect coastal structures and shorelines. The rectangular submerged structure known as the most efficient shape among various submerged structures in the literature was fabricated at the nose of a rubble mound breakwater. The reflection coefficients and the run-up heights along the slope of a breakwater were measured for different significant wave heights and periods. It is found in this study that the reflection coefficient is affected more relatively by the significant wave period than the significant wave height and the run-up heights are reduced approximately 28% in terms of ${^{RU}}_{2%}$ and 26% in terms of ${^{RU}}_{33%}$, respectively, by the installation of a submerged structure inducing the interception and breaking of waves.

Low Frequency Roll Motion of a Semi-Submersible Moored in Irregular Waves

  • Hong, Yong-Pyo;Choi, Yong-Ho;Lee, Dong-Yeon;Lee, Wang-Keun
    • Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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    • v.11 no.3
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2007
  • A semi-submersible drilling rig is regarded as one of the typical offshore structures operated in the field with moderate environments such as the Gulf of Mexico, Brazil, and West Africa. Its typical roll and pitch natural periods are around 30 seconds, which avoids prevailing regions of the wave energy spectrum, and their responses in waves are quite acceptable for common operation conditions. But large roll and pitch motions can be induced by wave difference frequency energy spectrum if the metacentric heights of a semi-submersible decrease to small values in some loading conditions, and it is because the roll and pitch natural periods increase and approach to the region where the spectral density of the low frequency wave drift moment has significant value. This paper describes the low frequency roll motion of a semi-submersible that are excited by the wave 2nd order difference frequency energy by a series of model experiments. From the model tests with several different initial metacentric heights (GM), it was observed that a semi-submersible can experience large roll motion due to the wave group spectrum.

On Long-term Prediction Scheme in Ocean Engineering

  • Kwon, Sun-Hong;Kim, Dea-Woong
    • International Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology Speciallssue:Selected Papers
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.29-34
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    • 2000
  • This paper proposes a long-term prediction of offshore structures in ocean waves. All short-term statistics is generated by the simulation for all the combinations of significant wave heights and spectral peak periods. The simulation has been tested first on linear system, whose analytic solution is known, to verify if the simulation works accurately. Then the scheme was applied to the nonlinear system. This paper demonstrated that the proposed scheme could be an efficient tool in estimating the response of offshore structures.

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Characteristics of the Monthly Mean Sea Surface Winds and Wind Waves near the Korean Marginal Seas in the 2002 Year Computed Using MM5/KMA and WAVEWATHC-III model (중규모 기상모델(MM5/KMA)과 3세대 파랑모델(WAVEWATCH-III)로 계산된 한반도 주변해역의 2002년 월평균 해상풍과 파랑 분포 특성)

  • 서장원;장유순
    • The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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    • v.8 no.3
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    • pp.262-273
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    • 2003
  • We have analyzed the characteristics of the monthly mean sea surface winds and wind waves near the Korean marginal seas in the 2002 year on the basis of prediction results of the sea surface winds from MM5/KMA model, which is being used for the operation system at the Korea Meteorological Administration and the third generation wave model, WAVEWATCH-III. which takes the sea surface winds derived from MM5/KMA model as the initial data. Statistical comparisons have been applied with both the marine meteorological observation buoy and the TOPEX/POSEIDON satellite wave heights data to verify the model results. The correlation coefficients between the models and observation data reach up to about 60-80%, supporting that these models satisfactorily simulate the sea surface winds and wave heights even at the coastal regions except for Chilbal-Do located very close to the land. Based on these verification results, the distributions of monthly mean sea surface winds, significant wave heights, wave lengths and wave periods around the Korean marginal seas during 2002 year have been represented.

Empirical Formula for Wave Runup of Rubble-Mound Structure Covered by Tetrapods: Effects of Front Slope and Armour Layer Thickness (TTP로 피복된 경사식구조물의 처오름높이 산정식: 사면경사 및 피복층 두께 효과)

  • Lee, Jong-In;Bae, Il-Ro
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.35 no.5
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    • pp.1051-1059
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    • 2015
  • Wave runup is one of the most important factors affecting the design of coastal structure exposed to wave attack. In this study, two dimensional laboratory tests were conducted under the different random wave conditions and structure configurations to develop a formula to predict runup heights. Rubble-mound structure consisted of tetrapod armour blocks with 1:1.5 and 1:2 slopes. The relative water depths (the ratio of the significant wave height to water depth at the toe) ranged from 0.14 to 0.56. The formula proposed here is applicable to surf similarity parameter ranging from 2 to 6. Runup heights on 1:2 slope were higher than those on 1:1.5 slope. Runup heights were reduced by 5% when the armour layer thickness increased two times.

Analysis of Reliability of Weather Fields for Typhoon Sanba (1216) (태풍 기상장의 신뢰도 분석: 태풍 산바(1216))

  • Kwon, Kab Keun;Jho, Myeong Hwan;Ryu, Kyong Ho;Yoon, Sung Bum
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.465-480
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    • 2020
  • Numerical simulations of the storm surge and the wave induced by the Typhoon Sanba incident on the south coast of Korea in 2012 are conducted using the JMA-MSM forecast weather field, NCEP-CFSR reanalysis weather field, ECMWF-ERA5 reanalysis weather field, and the pressure and wind fields obtained using the best track information provided by JTWC. The calculated surge heights are compared with the time history observed at harbors along the coasts of Korea. For the waves the calculated significant wave heights are compared with the data measured using the wave buoys and the underwater pressure type wave gauge. As a result the JMA-MSM and the NCEP-CFSR weather fields give the highest reliability. The ECMWF-ERA5 gives in general surge and wave heights weaker than the measured. The ECMWF-ERA5, however, reproduces the best convergence belt formed in front of the typhoon. The weather field obtained using JTWC best track information gives the worst agreement.

The Effect of Directional Dispersion of Frequency Spectrum on the Joint Distribution of Wave Height, Period and Wave Direction (파고, 주기, 파향의 결합확율분포에 미치는 입사파랑의 방향분산성의 영향)

  • 권정곤
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.2 no.3
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    • pp.143-151
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    • 1990
  • The sediment transport in shallow water regions has been studied in various ways and, accordingly, many formulas have been proposed. However, when these formulas are applied practically in the field, they are not sufficient to fully estimate the sediment transport rate yet. The primary reason is how to take into account the effect of irregularities of field waves : wave heights, periods and directions. Therefore, it is necessary to investigate stochastic and kinematic characteristics of waves in three dimensional random seas in order to more accurately estimate it. In particular, the asymmetrical properties of directional spectrum become significant and play an important role in various phenomena in a shallow water region. In this study, their effects of incident waves the joint distribution of wave heights, periods and directions are investigated through field measurements.

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Determination of Design Waves along the South Coast of Korea (한국남해만에서의 설계파의 결정)

  • 김태인;최한규
    • Water for future
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    • v.21 no.4
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    • pp.389-397
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    • 1988
  • For determination of the design wves at the seven selected sites in the South Sea, a method of hindcasting the past annual largest significant waves from the records of both the wind speed at the nearby weather stations and the weather charts of typhoons are utilized. The design significant waves in deep water are determined through the extremal probability analysis for three major wave directions(SW, S, SE) at each site from the annual extremal series of wave heights. Design significant wave heights with the return period of 100 years ranged between 4.6m and 8.8m with the wave period ranging between 8.2 seconds and 12.9 seconds. Through the analysis of weather maps, both the fetches for the wind directions SW-SE along the South Coast and the relationship between the wind speed at sea and the wind speed at the nearby land weather stations for seasonal winds are determined. The wind speed at sea are found to be 0.8-0.9 times the wind speed at the land stations for $U_1$>15m/s. The ratio of the duration-averaged wind speed to the maximum wind speed varies between 0.7-0.9 as a negative exponential function for the duration ranging 2< t< 13 hours.

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An Experimental Study on the Estimation Method of Overtopping Discharge at the Rubble Mound Breakwater Using Wave-Overtopping Height (월파고를 이용한 사석경사제의 월파량 산정방법에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • Dong-Hoon Yoo;Young-Chan Lee;Do-Sam Kim;Kwang-Ho Lee
    • Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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    • v.48 no.3
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    • pp.192-199
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    • 2024
  • Wave overtopping is a significant natural hazard that occurs in coastal areas, primarily driven by high waves, particularly those generated during typhoons, which can cause coastal flooding. The development of residential and commercial areas along the coast, driven by increasing social and economic demands, has led to a concentration of people and assets in these vulnerable areas. This, coupled with long-term sea level rise and an increase in typhoon frequency, has heightened the risk of coastal hazards. Traditionally, the evaluation of wave overtopping volumes has relied on directly measuring the collected volume of water that exceeds the crest height of structures through hydraulic model experiments. These experiments are averaged over a specific measurement period. However, in this study, we propose a new method for estimating individual wave overtopping volumes. We utilize the temporal variation of wave overtopping heights to develop an observation system that can quantitatively assess wave overtopping volumes in actual coastal areas. To test our method, we conducted hydraulic model experiments on rubble mound breakwaters, which are commonly installed along the Korean coast. We introduce wave overtopping discharge coefficients, assuming that the inundation velocity from the structure's crest is the long-wave velocity. We then predict overtopping volumes based on wave overtopping heights and compare and review the results with experimental data. The findings of our study confirm the feasibility of estimating wave overtopping volumes by applying the overtopping discharge coefficients derived in this study to wave overtopping heights.