• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.179-192
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• 2021

In this study, an integrated wave model from global to coastal scales was developed to improve the operational wave prediction performance of the Korean Meteorological Administration (KMA). In this system, the wave model was upgraded to the WaveWatch III version 6.07 with the improved parameterization of the source term. Considering the increased resolution of the wind input field and the introduction of the high-performance KMA 5^th Supercomputer, the spatial resolution of global and regional wave models has been doubled compared to the operational model. The physical processes and coefficients of the wave model were optimized for the current KMA global atmospheric forecasting system, the Korean Integrated Model (KIM), which is being operated since April 2020. Based on the sensitivity experiment results, the wind-wave growth parameter (β_max) for the global wave model was determined to be 1.33 with the lowest root mean square errors (RMSE). The value of β_max showed the lowest error when applied to regional/coastal wave models for the period of the typhoon season when strong winds occur. Applying the new system to the case of August 2020, the RMSE for the 48-hour significant wave height prediction was reduced by 13.4 to 17.7% compared to the existing KMA operating model. The new integrated wave prediction system plans to replace the KMA operating model after long-term verification.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.244-254
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• 2013

In this study, a method has been developed for estimating the change of nearshore random waves in response to sea-level rise, by extending the method proposed for regular waves by Townend in 1994. The relative changes in wavelength, refraction coefficient, shoaling coefficient, and wave height for random waves are presented as functions of relative change in water depth. The changes in wavelength and refraction coefficient are calculated by using the significant wave period and principal wave direction in the regular-wave formulas. On the other hand, the changes in shoaling coefficient and wave height are calculated by using the formulas proposed for shoaling and transformation of random waves in the nearshore area including surf zone. The results are proposed in the form of both formulas and graphs. In particular, the relative change in wave height is compared with the result for regular waves.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.43-64
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• 1992

This study discusses the interacting with deep water waves approaching from deep water based on the linear wave theory and steep sloping sea bottom floor by the numerical procedure. The results of particular interest are particle velocity and acceleration in x, y, z direction wave height amplification factor reflection coefficient and dimensionless pressure distribution on the steep sloping bottom with respect to the various incident wave angle. The wave loads relative to various bottom slopes, incident wave angles and wave periods on submerged breakwater and pipe are represented in comparison with mild sloping bottom the wave load parameters on the steep sloping bottom seemed to be influenced by variation of incident wave angle. In general the particle velocities and accelerations in x, y, z directions on the steep sloping bottom represented larger value or about two than those on the mild sloping bottom according to incident wave angle. However, the wave height amplification factors did not show distinct difference, but the slight variation with respect to the various incident angle showed on mild sloping bottom. The reflection coefficient increased with respect to increase of the incident angle on the steep sloping bottom the results also indicate that the very steep sloping beach produces a rather substantial amount of reflection as we expected. No significant variation of wave pressure was shown on the steep sloping bottom but it represented a certain amount of variation on the mild sloping bottom according to the various incident wave angle. The analysis at the OTEC site also showed similar results.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.103-114
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• 2024

Remote sensing wave observation data are crucial when analyzing ocean waves, the main external force of coastal disasters. Nevertheless, it has limitations in accuracy when used in low-wind environments. Therefore, this study collected the raw data from MIROS Wave and Current Radar (MWR) and wave radar at the Ieodo Ocean Research Station (IORS) and applied the optimal filter by combining filters provided by MIROS software. The data were validated by a comparison with South Jeju ocean buoy data. The results showed it maintained accuracy for significant wave height, but errors were observed in significant wave periods and extreme waves. Hence, this study used an artificial neural network (ANN) to improve these errors. The ANN was generalized by separating the data into training and test datasets through stratified sampling, and the optimal model structure was derived by adjusting the hyperparameters. The application of ANN effectively improved the accuracy in significant wave periods and high wave conditions. Consequently, this study reproduced past wave data by enhancing the reliability of the MWR, contributing to understanding wave generation and propagation in storm conditions, and improving the accuracy of wave prediction. On the other hand, errors persisted under high wave conditions because of wave shadow effects, necessitating more data collection and future research.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.342-354
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• 2008

Some statistical characteristics of deepwater waves along the Korean coast have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relation between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The mean and standard deviation of the principal deepwater wave direction are presented at the 106 coastal grid points along the Korean coast. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter $s_{max}$ is expressed as a lognormal distribution. The most suitable frequency spectrum in the Korean coast is the TMA spectrum. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor $\gamma$ is also expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.94, which is close to the value in the North Sea.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.138-145
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• 2011

In this paper time series wave data are simulated by the Monte Calo method using random numbers to generate random phases of the wave signal. The simulated wave signasl are used to study the characteristics of freak waves. Various sea states are represented by combinations of the significant wave height $H_s$ defined in the spectrum method and the significant wave steepness $S_s$. For a fixed value of $S_s$, the probability of the occurrence of the freak wave is decreased as $H_s$ increases. For a fixed value of $H_s$ the probability of the occurrence of the freak wave increases as $S_s$ increases. The average value of the maximum wave height increase as $S_s$ increases, but the average height of freak wave remains the same and the value approaches two times of $H_s$. For the fixed value of $S_s$, average kurtosis of wave elevation increases as $H_s$ increases, but for a fixed $H_s$, the average kurtosis decreases as $S_s$ increases. The average of abnormality index(AI) is around 2.11 irregardless of $H_s$ and $S_s$. The maximum value of AI lies between 2.5 - 3.0. Therefore it is conjectured that AI maximum due to linear focusing is 3.0.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.26-33
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• 1992

Physical experiments were conducted to investigate the suspension properties of silty mud in combined wave-current flow. Suspension mass when there was opposing current was much higher than that when there was following current. It is due to the fact which strong turbulent flow in the bottom is developed in the opposing current but oscillatory flow effect decreases in the following current. Critical bed shear stress for suspension of silty mud in combined wave-current flow was deduced to be $\tau$$_{c}$～0.045 N/$m^2$. Formulas expressing the relation with initial suspension rate with bed shear stress, and the relation between the former and measured significant wave height were deduced. The relationship of initial suspension rate with bed shear stress was significantly scattered, but the relationship with measured significant wave height was reasonably good. When there is wave only, vertical diffusion coefficients of sediment were calculated from the vertical concentration gradients of suspended sediment when the concentration of suspended sediment approached to nearly equilibrium state. The diffusion coefficient increased exponentially with height from the bottom in the lower half of the flow depth but were nearly constant in the upper half of the flow depth.h.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.71-81
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• 1998

In this paper the statistical characteristics of the waves at Hong-do and Mara-do are examined. The wane scatter diagrams of H/sub s/ and T/sub z/ and H/sub 1/3/and T/sub 1/3/ at two locations are given and various statistical characteristics of the ocean waves are examined. If the sea is not narrowband, the modified Rayleigh distribution introduced by Longuet-Higgins can be used for the individual wave height distribution. However the modified Rayleigh distribution has not been widely used due to the inconvenience of determining the empirical constant. In this paper a simple method to determine the empirical constant for the modified Rayleigh distribution is proposed. Extreme waves based on the measured wave data are estimated. There is no significant difference depending on the distribution functions. However the estimations of the extreme waves from H/sub s/ and H/sub 1/3/ show considerable difference.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.111-119
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• 2003

In order to improve navigational safety of ships, an ocean wave prediction model of high precision within a short time, dealing with multi-directional random waves from the information of the sea surface winds encountered at the planned ship's course, was introduced for construction of ocean wave forecasting system on the ship. In this paper, we investigated a sea disaster occurred by a stormy weather in the past. We analyzed the sea surface wind first and then carried out ocean wave hindercasting simulations according to the routes the sunken vessel. From the result of this study, we concluded that the sea disaster was caused by rapidly developed iou pressure system Okhotsk Sea and the predicted values by the third generation wave prediction model(WAM) was agreed well with the observed significant wave height, wave period, and directional wave spectrum. It gives a good applicability for construction of a practical on-board calculation system.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.273-286
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• 2021

In recent years, as human casualties and property damage caused by hazardous waves have increased in the East Sea, precise wave prediction skills have become necessary. In this study, the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) third-generation numerical wave model was calibrated and optimized to enhance the accuracy of winter storm wave prediction in the East Sea. We used Source Term 6 (ST6) and physical observations from a large-scale experiment conducted in Australia and compared its results to Komen's formula, a default in SWAN. As input wind data, we used Korean Meteorological Agency's (KMA's) operational meteorological model called Regional Data Assimilation and Prediction System (RDAPS), the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts' newest 5th generation re-analysis data (ERA5), and Japanese Meteorological Agency's (JMA's) meso-scale forecasting data. We analyzed the accuracy of each model's results by comparing them to observation data. For quantitative analysis and assessment, the observed wave data for 6 locations from KMA and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA) were used, and statistical analysis was conducted to assess model accuracy. As a result, ST6 models had a smaller root mean square error and higher correlation coefficient than the default model in significant wave height prediction. However, for peak wave period simulation, the results were incoherent among each model and location. In simulations with different wind data, the simulation using ERA5 for input wind datashowed the most accurate results overall but underestimated the wave height in predicting high wave events compared to the simulation using RDAPS and JMA meso-scale model. In addition, it showed that the spatial resolution of wind plays a more significant role in predicting high wave events. Nevertheless, the numerical model optimized in this study highlighted some limitations in predicting high waves that rise rapidly in time caused by meteorological events. This suggests that further research is necessary to enhance the accuracy of wave prediction in various climate conditions, such as extreme weather.