• 만화애니메이션 연구
• /
• 통권50호
• /
• pp.75-99
• /
• 2018

일본의 애니메이션 감독 신카이 마코토는 1인 제작 시스템과 '빛의 작가' 로 주목 받으며 등장했으나 그의 2016년 개봉작 <너의 이름은.>은 그러한 기존의 그의 작품을 특징지은 요소들로부터 상당부분 스스로 탈피한 모습을 보임과 동시에 일본 전통적 인연설인 무스비 테제의 결합으로 내러티브의 풍부함과 열린 해석 가능성의 매력으로 흥행은 물론 앞으로의 작품에 대한 기대감까지 한껏 고조시켰다. 이 작품은 제목에서도 짐작할 수 있는 바, '이름'에 관한 일본 고대 언어관과 현대 언어관의 만남이 나타나며 온전한 '만남' 을 위해 이름(언어)의 역할이 사건 속에서 다양한 변주로 반복 강조되는 모습을 보인다. 이 작품에서는 인물들도, 사물들도 접촉하는 주체의 뜻에 따라 그 기의가 유사성의 은유적 역할로 해석이 확장, 유보된다. 기표와 기의라는 구조를 통해 분석된 말과 사물의 관계는 소쉬르를 통해 나타난 현대의 획기적인 사상적 발견이다. 데리다는 소쉬르의 이 개념에서 사물을 비로소 존재하게 하는 '차이' 에 주목하며, 로고스의 명령에 충실해 온 서구의 로고스 중심주의, 이성 중심주의를 해체한다. 이처럼 서구 형이상학의 폐쇄적이고 배타적인 원리가 해체된 이후 대두되게 된 것은 중심의 해체, 주체의 해체이다. 데리다는 이처럼 해체주의를 표방하며 그 동안의 이성 중심주의에 의해 배제되어왔던 수많은 약소자들 및 타자들과 어떻게 관계를 맺으며, 어떻게 타자들의 부름에 응답하고 그들을 환대할 수 있느냐 하는 문제를 제기한다. 데리다의 '해체'개념은 언어의 본성에 대한 통찰을 출발점으로 하는 철학적 전략이다. 그가 텍스트를 읽는 방법적 개념으로 등장시킨 은유인 '산종(dissemination, 散種)'은 해석 실천(혹은 유희의 방법)으로 작용하며, 어떤 종국적인 해석을 추구하지 않는다. 그의 '결정 불가능성'은 그 출발은 무한성이 아니지만 귀결되는 종착지는 무한성이다. 연구자는 인간이 언어의 주체가 아닌 언어의 사용자의 입장이기에, 데리다 역시 기표와 기의로 이루어진 사물의 세계를 열린 텍스트로 해석함으로써 우리 역시 세계의 해석자가 될 수 없음을 스스로 증언했다고 파악하며, 데리다의 '해체'와 '산종'의 프레임을 통해 사물과 이름의 이야기, 이름을 통한 만남을 이야기하고 있는 신카이 마코토의 작품을 읽어보고자 한다. 또한 기표와 기의의 구조가 이 작품 속에서, 또한 현대를 살아가는 우리 인간과는 어떠한 관계가 있는지 제고하며. 데리다의 해체와 산종 개념을 통해 작품에 나타난 말과 사물의 관계를 살펴보며, 기표와 기의로 세계를 파악하는 우리 역시도 곧 기표와 기의의 일부에 다름없음을 확인한다.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권7호
• /
• pp.126-141
• /
• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing farm, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal body shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Representation of physicality refers to structural designs and elastic fabrication. Structural designs appeared in tailoring and bias-cut draping, as well as in stretchy clothes such as Lycra body suit and knit garments that highlights the body structure and movements of the body joints. In representing physicality in fashion, clothing forms reflect body silhouette and each body parts. Therefore, the shape of clothes (signifiant) corresponds to the anatomy and movement of the body ($signifi\'{e}$) in pursuit of aptness. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권9호
• /
• pp.66-82
• /
• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal boily shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Manipulation of physicality entails the reconstruction of the ideal body image through the clothes that modify physicality into unnatural body. Ruff collar, gigot sleeve, crinoline, bustle, stomacher, and corset were all used to materialize the fictitious curves symbolizing femininity, authority, healthiness, maternity, virginity, socioeconomic status, and fertility. Accentuating specific clothing parts represents emphasizing the symbolism of the correspondent body parts. Consequently, in this phase signifiant is $signifi\'{e}$. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the firm of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제33권4호
• /
• pp.511-518
• /
• 2009

Freed from its traditional confinement to the human body, postmodernism in fashion exposes the defectiveness of body and abstracts from the body under. Deformation of the body denotes the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body. Bodily deformation carried out historical and cultural pastiche opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism which results in the discord between signifiant and $signifi{\acute{e}}$ of clothing. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily deformation as pastiche, focusing on the relationship between clothes and the body. In order to inquire the deformation of the body in fashion, my study examines subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the 21st century, using the method of literature research and content analysis.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권6호
• /
• pp.145-159
• /
• 2007

Freed from its traditional confinement to the human body, postmodernism in fashion exposes the defectiveness of body and abstracts from the body under. As the 20th century art put premium on self-expression, the body itself became a powerful medium of expression in fashion. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the fragmentation of the body in fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in fragmentation of the body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century, The results of the study are as follows. Fragmentation of the body in fashion means the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body. The formative aspects of fragmentation are achieved through body casting, displacement, and deconstruction. The absence of physicality in fashion opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism that results in the discord between signifiant and $signifi{\tilde{e}}$ of clothing. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze fragmentation of the body in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제19권5호
• /
• pp.970-980
• /
• 2011

As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi$\acute{e}$ of clothing.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
• /
• 제25권1호
• /
• pp.35-46
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study was to identify the characteristics of expressionism in the space of deconstructive architecture by comparing the spaces of "The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari" video with the expressionist characteristics of film narrative structure and expressionist architecture and making an expansion based on the results. The findings were as follows: first, the "The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari" is divided into two set spaces: one has the perspective representation distorted in the viewpoint of a mad person applied to it, and the other reflects the viewpoint of a normal person from medieval paintings with no perspective. Second, the expressionist buildings did not reflect the expressionist characteristics in the interior spaces as fully as in the exterior ones. Third, the incomplete combination of Signifiant and $Signifi{\acute{e}}$, which were the theoretical basis of deconstructive architecture, showed a tendency of binary opposition like the double narrative structure of "The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari." Fourth, deconstructive architecture seems to embody the exterior form and interior space of "The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari" and its set spaces in the phenomenal aspect but exhibits its limitations with the realization of dynamics, one of the characteristics of expressionism. Finally, the Seattle Public Library presents the best embodiment of expressionist characteristics found in the set spaces of "The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari" while seeking after the combination of horizontal and vertical paths of action through the spiral ramps and inclined slabs.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제15권4호
• /
• pp.604-619
• /
• 2007

Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation and non-representation of the body in fashion. Theoretically, this study draws from Jean Baudrillard's Simulation theory which maintains that simulation develops the whole edifice of representation. My study substitutes the successive phases of the image to that of (non) representing body in fashion. The correspondences between them are; first, 'image is the reflection of a basic reality' for the representation of physicality, second, 'image masks and perverts a basic reality' for the manipulation of physicality, third, 'image masks the absence of a basic reality' for the absence of physicality, and fourth, 'image bears no relation to any reality whatever' for the absence of body in fashion. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권4호
• /
• pp.70-80
• /
• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify transfiguration in fashion design. In order to inquire tile formative style and aesthetic values expressed in transfiguration in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Transfiguration signifies absence of body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Transfiguration is expressed in non-figural forms which implies metaphorical plasticity and abstract extensity. Transfiguration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. Ultimately, this phase also betrays the correspondence between signifiant and $signifi\acute{e}$ in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in transfiguration in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 비교문화연구
• /
• 제51권
• /
• pp.213-233
• /
• 2018

이 글은 언어로 미래를 그리는 일은 지금과는 다른 언어의 세계를 그리는 일임과 동시에, 언어가 달라진 미래와 현재 사이에 동일성을 현재의 언어로 확보해야 한다는 매우 어렵지만 중요한 일이라는 문제의식 하에, 다와다 요코의 "불사의 섬"과 "헌등사"를 중심으로 디스토피아의 언어 세계를 고찰하는 것을 목적으로 한다. 먼저 이중언어 작가로서 독일과 일본어 사이의 경계를 횡단하던 다와다 요코에게 있어 2011년 동일본대지진과 이에 따른 후쿠시마 원자력 발전 사고는, 방사능 누출로 인한 신체적 변동에 따른 기존의 시니피앙과 시니피에 사이의 질서가 파괴된 세계의 출현이라는 의미로 받아들여졌음을 "불사의 섬"을 통해 확인할 수 있다. "헌등사"는 쇄국정책 등을 통해서 기존의 언어적 질서가 파괴된 세계 속에서도 다중적인 의미를 담아낼 수 있는 언어활동을 통해서 인간적인 유대가 유지될 수 있음을 보여준다. 다와다 요코의 소설에 대한 이상의 고찰을 통해서, 인간이 다양한 언어의 힘에 기대고 그것을 유지시킬 수 있는 이상 그 산물로서 어떤 생생한 디스토피아 속에도 실은 희망이 숨겨져 있음을 알 수 있다.