• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.646-656
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• 2015

This study investigates the conditions of Korean naval duty and combat uniforms to develop a new design. Survey participants consisted of, 723 Sailors ($25.3{\pm}6.9yr$ in age, $43{\pm}53$ months in work experience, $174{\pm}6cm$ in height, $71{\pm}9kg$ in body mass) serving in the Korean Navy for over 12 months. The questionnaire consisted of 72 questions about anthropometric characteristics, preferred design, textiles, wear mobility, and subjective perceptions. The results showed that the preferred colors for future naval duty uniforms were blue in summer (69%) and black in winter (62%). Digital camouflage pattern (60%) and darker colors on the inside of shirt collar (87%) and the edge of sleeves (84%) were preferred. They favored more than one pocket on the upper arm and chest of the shirts (58%), narrower width around pant legs and hems than the current clothing (63%), self-controlled elastic waist (55%) and no cargo type pocket on the pants (45%). There were requirements to alleviate excessive heat stress in summer and to protect from the cold and wind in winter. Wrinkle-free (85%), anti-bacterial (78%), water-proof (75%), oil-proof (90%), and elastic (67%) textiles were preferred for Korean navy uniforms. These results will be applied to develop the next generation Korean navy uniforms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.27-41
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• 2013

This study is to examine the costumes of Gyeokgu in different situations and to suggest when and how they should be used in historical drama. Gyeokgu is a type of polo game that was played in Korea and it was also known as Gyeokbong and Bonghee. The accounts of the game show that it was played during the South-North period as recorded in Balhaego, Haedongyeoksa, and Goryeosa until the Joseon period. The scenes of Gyeokgu have been shown in some historical dramas in order to make the story exciting or to show the life of royalty. The costume of Gyeokgu in the South-North period should be suggested Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) in a formal situation. The Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period was a sport for royalty. So the Gyeokgu costume in the Goryeo period was required to be worn with Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) for the kings and military officers in the early Goryeo period and with Cheollik(帖裡), Balip or Huklip(黑笠), and Haw(靴) from the middle of the Goryeo period. Women could wear Chima(skirt), Jeogori(blouse), Pyo, and Li(履) when they play Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period in the historical dramas. The Gyeokgu in the early Joseon period was a sport for the kings. After the king of Sejong, the Gyeokgu became a martial art for the military officers. The costume of Gyeokgu in the Joseon period should be Red Cheollik(紅帖裡), Kwadu, Jonglip, Gwangjodae(廣組帶), Sagu, and Haw(靴) as recorded in Muyedobotongji in the 18th century. The kings, servants, and military officers could wear the Cheollik and should be made in the different Git(collar), shape of the sleeves, and the proportion of the upper part and the underpart in each period properly. When the citizens play Gyeokgu, they could wear Geon(巾), Baji(pants), Jeogori(shirt), and Gipsin in the late Joseon period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1470-1478
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• 2010

This study investigates the suitability of outdoor wear among female trekkers in their twenties or thirties and provides data for developing outdoor wear more suitable for young females. Recently climbing has gained popularity as a leisure activity to enjoy the beauty of nature that increases physical and mental stamina. A survey was conducted on 304 female consumers in their twenties and thirties who enjoyed climbing in order to investigate the suitability of outdoor wear among young female consumers. The questionnaire covered the subjects' demographic information, duration and goal of climbing, purchase and suitability of outdoor wear, and preferred design for outdoor wear. As for the yearly situations, when they utilized outdoor wear, the biggest number of respondents chose "autumn" as the season for climbing. Most of the respondents were non-professional trekkers who enjoyed climbing as a hobby or for health. As for the size, the upper garment was 90 and 85 in the order, and the lower garment was 70 and 67 in the order. The pants were the most common item they owned, followed by round T-shirts, windbreaker jackets, zipup T-shirts, and waterproof jackets. They mentioned moisture absorption and dry fabric breathability as the basic functions required of outdoor wear. The subjects displayed a preference for partial details under the design category. They most preferred the hood-type jacket with a detachable stand collar, the sleeve hem with a partial rubber band and velcro strap, a T-shirt with a stand color and zipper, the waist fit with proper room, pants with a partial rubber band waist, and straight silhouette pants.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.103-120
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• 2012

The study aimed to evaluate the appearance of the men's work clothes jumpers developed to suggest the prototype work clothes jumper patterns by using the 3-D clothing simulation technology. The 3-D simulated clothing images considered the upper body features of men in the age range between 20 and 59 in South Korea. A questionnaire survey conducted previously suggested a basic jumper style with shirt collar and snap opening cuffs for the heavy industry workers; and discomforting parts of the work clothes jumper of the subject workers have been referred to for the experimental jumper appearance test. Besides, defining the measurements of men's upper bodies enabled to generate the men's 3-D virtual models representing each age group's average body feature. The significant body measurement factors for men's 3-D body modeling and jumper pattern-making were stature for the height factor; chest, waist and hip circumferences for the circumference factor; waist back, hip and arm lengths and interscye front/back for the length factor; and back neck breadth for the breadth factor and armscye and scye depths for the depth factor. The men's body measurements of 30's were implemented to three experimental jumper pattern-making methods, i.e. the 1st method using the relations based on stature and chest circumference; the 2nd method using the direct body measurements; and the 3rd method adopting the maximum ease amount of given body measurements whether relations or direct measurements except the direct measurement of scye depth. A comparison among the three experimental jumpers' simulated images highlighted that the appropriate ease amount of the jumper gained higher scores in terms of the jumpers' front, side, back and sleeve parts and the total silhouettes. Therefore the 3rd experimental jumper was finally selected for the heavy industry workers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.181-195
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• 1992

The purposes of this study were to investigate 1) the effect of body exposure and color of a woman's suit on the perception of modesty, and 2) the effect of perceiver's sex and age on impression formed by the function of clothing variables. The instrument of this study consisted of a response scale and stimuli. Thirteen items of 7-point semantic differential scales were developed to measure the perceiver's impression on wearer's modesty. Stimuli were color pictures of a model wearing one of 8 types of suit constructed by a 2 $\times$ 2 $\times$ 2 factorial design. The manipulation of each level of the clothing variables were: color of the suit by black and red, leg exposure by varying skirt lengths to a Chanel-line and mini skirt, and neck exposure by shirt collar blouse and scarf. Two models, representing typical female college students living in Seoul, were selected to eliminate model effect. The sample include 384 subjects, consisting of 4 groups of male and female college students and middle aged men and women. Eight experimental groups were randomly assigned to one of eight stimuli based on between-subject design. One half of each group responded to model 1 and the other half to model 2 of same stimulus. Responses to the semantic differential scales were factor analyzed (pc model, Varimax rotation) to identify factors constructing impression of modesty. Two factors emerged regard­less of subgroups; Elegance and Extroversion factor. The first factor was found to be dominant, accounting for 60 percent of the total variance. The other accounted for just 11 percent. Multidimensional ANOVA (5-way, 3-way) was conducted to test the effect of the clothing variables against two factors identified from the factor analysis. Leg exposure was the most powerful variable affecting the impression of Elegance and Extroversion factor for all per. ceiver subgroups. Neck exposure had primary effect on the impression of Elegance, whereas it partially influenced that of Extroversion. Color of suit had only partial effect on the impression of Extroversion. Hypothesis I was partially supported from the findings above. The effect of perceiver's age and sex on impression by the function of clothing variables was tested by comparing the result between four subgroups. In forming an impression of the wearer's modesty, male college students were least affected by the manipulation of clothing variables, while middle aged males were affected most. In the female groups, there was no age difference and they fell between the male groups in the degree to which they were affected. Hypothesis II was supported only by age difference in two male groups, and by sex difference in two student groups.