• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제3권
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• pp.89-105
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to classify sleeves that play an important role in upper-garment designs and that can be presented in diverse shapes by meaningful era. Also, characteristics and trends of sleeves are analyzed to provide a basis for development of design on modem woman's dress. To examine formation and construction of sleeves, literature review and empirical examination were conducted, focusing on patterns of woman's dress presented in literature. This study is to concentrate on the period, the Renaissance to the 19C. In this study, characteristics of sleeves are analyzed by each era according to its shapes and construction. By analyzing the shape of sleeves and the characteristics of the construction of sleeves, the following conclusions had been reached. 1) Sleeves evolved from single, draped garments into dimensional shapes which were manipulated to reflect the changing trends. Considering the comfort and ease of movement have always been very important in clothing design and the construction of sleeves throughout the ages has consistently been able to provide the comfort that wearer demanded. 2) Shape of sleeves varies a little in each period, but recurring trends in fashion led to similar design in sleeves being repeated. Also, instead of a dramatic change in the construction of sleeves, each period had its own unique technique to add freshness by using a variety of ornamentation.

• 복식
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• 제50권7호
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• pp.235-247
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• 2000

This study was conducted to consider the formation of sleeves from the point of view that dress is one of expressive arts. The formative meaning of a sleeve and its chronological formation according to its formative changes as an evidence showing the Internal changes of social culture were examined, centering around day dress of England in the 11th to 19th centuries. Then, sleeves were formatively classified and their aesthetic values were considered to help do formative, aesthetic expression of dress design in the present times. Literatures and references concerning the history of domestic and foreign dress were used as a method of study. The results of this study are summarized as follows. 1. In the women's dress, the formation of the sleeve focuses on aesthetic decoration. This means that in the androgentric society the status of women are subordinate socioculturally. 2. Sleeves were classified into a fitted shape and a extension shape according to the aesthetic formation. The fluted shape expressed the beauty of body with emphasis old natural body, whereas the extension shape represented aesthetic expression of decoration. 3. The formation of a sleeve has influence on forming an image of dress by making the silhouette of dress natural or distorted, expresses the harmonious beauty of the whole dress, and produces the expressional beauty that gives a distinct characteristic to a dress.

• 한국소성가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국소성가공학회 1998년도 금형가공 심포지엄
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• pp.60-66
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• 1998

The horizontal cold chamber pressure die casting produces a variety of net shape, complicate-geometry castings with desired mechanical properties. dimensional tolerance, and surface finish. However, top quality castings can be achieved only when optimal performance of thecold chamber (shot sleeve )and plunger is maintained druing the molten metla injection phase of the process. Unforturately, inreality , shot sleeves deteriorate fast and sometimes fail catastrophically due to incorrect design. These early and unexpected failures of shot sleeves cost die casters money and productiivity. To prevent promature failures of shoe sleeves major faulure mechanisms were investigated. with the aid of analyticla solutions robust design criteria for shot sleeves have been developed. The data directly obtained from failed shot sleeves in the die casting industry for automotive parts, support a strong correlation between design and filures. by applying these design criterial we expected premature faulures of shot sleeves can be avoided in die casting industry.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.225-229
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to trace and to identify the origin and meanings of the word ho-su(胡神) that is found in historical documents of Chosun dynasty period. Historical documents, books, and other written materials from Korea and China were used for this research. The word ho-su(胡神) of Korea was originated in Chinese. At the first, ho-su(胡神) was a name of a kind of sleeves. It is long and wide round sleeves with narrow wrist parts. The character ho(胡) means a jaw, lower part of a jaw, a jaw hung down, hing down and lower part. Thus, the word ho-su(胡神) is a compound word made with character ho(胡) and character su(神) sleeve. The direct meaning of ho-su(胡神) in characteristic shape of the sleeves. The second meaning of the ho-su(胡神) is the name of a dress with long and wide round sleeves with narrow wrists. The name of the ho-su as a name of a dress was taken from the name of the ho-su(胡神), a kind of sleeves.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권11호
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• pp.1779-1785
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• 2010

The experiment is designed to create some useful data on the dressed shapes that contribute to simulating the adaptability of clothes. We studied the dressed shapes of blouse with above-elbow sleeves and sleeveless according to five types of arm movement (basic posture, reach forward 45, 90, and reach lateral 45, 90) in the stand-posture. Experiments were conducted to understand the dressed shape through 3-D measurement Vivid 910 and to investigate the width, depth, area distribution and gap of the shape of blouses on the section map with a software program for 3-D shape analysis, Rapid Form 2004. The Data were analyzed by factor analysis. The results of this study are as follows: The ratio of depth per width in the stand-posture was lower than other arm movements and the reach lateral was higher than the reach forward. The gap of the upper body was a briefed 4 factor; front, front-side, back, and back-side. It was higher than the sleeveless with a change of the gap in the dressed blouse with above-elbow sleeves by arm movements per stand-posture. The divisional gap shows the adaptability of clothes according to the types of blouse and arm movements in the change of the ratio.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.62-71
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• 2008

Costume elements are closely related with human living environment and also play an important role in the costume patterns. The East and the West have influenced and adopted each other's culture through mutual trade, which are well reflected in costume patterns and textile patterns. These days world wide fashion shows the designs applying costume details of the East and the West, which is much affected by the orientalism. The purpose of this study is to compare the sleeve patterns which take an important part in women's costume design of the Joseon Dynasty and the European Monarchy in the 16th century. Korean women's costume showed sleeves in rectangular shape with same width and long length, together with cuffs. Later they changed to diagonal shape of getting narrower toward the wrist. Western women's costume showed sleeves with puff and slash patterns. Then they were classified into French, British and Spanish styles which were getting narrower toward the wrist. Later they adopted the shape of leg of mutton which was puffed in middle and narrower toward the wrist. I n Korea and Europe, they showed respective changes in sleeve patterns, but also similarity of getting narrower toward the wrist. The East and the West are now exchanging their culture in every aspect such as politics, economics and social matters. Costume fashion is not an exception. The characteristic designs of traditional costumes are shown on global fashion, which is influenced by the orientalism.

• 복식
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• 제63권1호
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• pp.135-146
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the $13-14^{th}$ century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the $14^{th}$ century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the $12^{th}$ century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.619-625
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• 2010

The purpose of this research is to analyze the shapes of blouse with above-elbow sleeves according to arm movements. The shapes include five types of the arm movement(basic posture, reach forward 45, 90, and reach lateral 45, 90) in the stand-posture, which were made by different adaptability of clothes. Experiments were conducted to figure out the dressed shape through 3-D measurement Vivid 910, and also to investigate the area of the shape of sleeves on the section map and the diagonal length of the block made by the basic section line in lateral part of sleeve with Rapid Form 2004, a software for 3-D shape analysis. The Data were analyzed by factor analysis, Anova, Duncan test, t-test. The results of this study were as follows: First, the area of sleeve was briefed 3 factor; front, center, back in sleeve. Second, there were different effect of arm movement, section level and part of shapes in the area of sleeve. Third, the diagonal length was briefed 4 factor; back, back-center, front-center, front. Forth, after t-test, there were statistically significant between the reach forward and lateral and between the angles of arm reach.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.95-104
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• 2018

This study classified the figurative features of the raglan sleeves presented in the Spring and Summer Collections and Fall and Winter Collections abroad in 2010 and 2018 and analyzed the production methods and patterns of the classified raglan sleeves. The analysis results are described below. The raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends were classified into Type H, Type A, Type O and Type Y per shape. The production features of raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends included the cutting lines in various shapes, a flounce that made shoulders look wider, and decorations such as gathers, studs, punching, slits, pleats and tucks. The raglan sleeve design was classified into Yoke Raglan, Armhole Princess Raglan, Semi Raglan, Gathered Raglan, Pleats Raglan, Cowl Raglan, Origami Raglan, Circular Curved Raglan, Capes Raglan and Constructive Design Raglan and the patterns per design were presented. For creative and experimental clothing by the analysis of the features of raglan sleeve structure, a variety of configuration methods need to be developed and implemented. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles as the basis for further study on the configuration methods of raglan sleeves. This study will be used in various ways as education materials on sleeve patterns in the educational field. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of raglan sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.45-59
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• 1999

The objectives of this study were to identify fashion trend in the late 1990's by using content analysis of the design elements of wedding dresses in wedding magazine photographs. The data were selected among the wedding dress photographs in 1997 issues of two wedding's magazines, 'My wedding'and 'She's Bride'. The identified 455 photographs were classified into 15 major-categories of silhouettes, necklines, sleeves, materials, and trimmings, etc. 15 major-categories were consisted of 232 sub-categories. In the late 1990's, fashion trends of wedding dresses have mixed mainly dome silhouettes(56.0%), bell silhouettes, and tubular silhouettes. One-piece forms(90.8%) were familar more than two-piece forms. Necklines were used mainly such as square neckline(14.0%), high necklines(13.0) blended with other off-shoulder necklines, heart-shape necklines, and sweet-heart necklines, etc. Also camisole and strapless were added in neckline. Long-tight sleeves dominated at the late 1990's because that were used most (21.1%) among 22 sleeves sub-categories. And short sleeve, ruffled below-elbow length sleeves, and french sleeves were also used with the other sleeves. Long length in skirts(98.4%) were common but mini length were used rarely. Satin, lace, and solid cloth were the main materials in wedding dresses, however, spandex and velvet were also used. Various trimmings such as flowers(corsages), ribbons blended with embroidery, small flowers, buttons, frills, strings, and fur trimming are used. Especially, flowers used most(11.8%) among 61 trimmings sub-categories. But simplicity was shown in trimmings because there were dresses not having any decorations(14.3%). The wedding dress of the late 1990's has become more varied in design due to the reflection of changes in society and fashion of everyday garments while the traditional design of the wedding dress has been preserved.