• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.125-138
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• 2007

The modern fashion contains the religious factors or theories out of numerous cultural traits. Shamanism is a product of the very complicated combination of diversified cultural phenomena and whose traits are depicted as spiritual and artistic forms, reflecting on the materialism culture, social relations, customs, and religious faith. The Shamanism that lies in the life of humans gives much impact on their clothing life up to date, consciously or nonconsciously as well. The Shamanism clothing studied as yet has been focused on the costumes that a Shamanism priest and a shaman, the principal Shamanism performer wears and on the symbolic meaning or formativeness of the traditional shaman clothing that is only confined to certain local regions. The Shamanism in the modern costume influences not only on the traditional clothing unique to shaman but also on the other apparels in a widely extended sense. Nevertheless, the research on the modern costumes related to Shamanism is yet to be progressed. In this context, it is believed that the examination of Shamanism interrelated with a contemporary clothing expression is needed. This work would take a look specifically at how the Shamanism is given in the modern clothing fashion and review the inherent aesthetic characteristics. A fact was driven through this study that the shamanism shown in fashion is not only expressed in the modern style of shaman clothing but also unconsciously absorbed in the fashion on the whole. A finding was also revealed that the geometrical and abstract expression, the implication of animistic components, and the application of inherent shaman's costume on to design in regard to clothing are related to a view point of studying about shamanism. The meaning in each expressive method is focused on the superhumanistic desire of shamanism.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.588-594
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• 2016

The outer clothing of shaman that are put on while performing current gutgeori is lacking in form and composition, diversified with kinds. Above all, name of shaman clothing is not unified, accordingly, there's a big difference from traditional Gutgeori, which was definitely divided in the role of outer clothing of shaman in respect of function and role of Gutgeori. Here, this research attended a site that performed Gutgeori based on the advanced literature research data research and analyzed the state and name of outer clothing by conducting a survey and interview investigation. Survey was conducted during 2 years from 2014 to 2015 classifying Gutgeori of Seoul, Gyeongsang, Honam, Jeju, Chungcheon. Research results are as follows. First, lots of outer clothes were put on along with shamanism type in Seoul, accordingly, names were diversified. Name of outer clothing was not unified by focusing on level of divinity or behavior of Gutgeori, with no consistency being mixed. Second, name was not consistent even the outer clothing of the same type shaman along with the region, sometimes put on in different meaning, accordingly, called in different name. Combination of such name of shaman is determined to be a big reason of lack of accurate information on shaman clothing and genealogy of name of shaman clothing in shamans, as the initial research on shamanism was conducted by folklorists in advance.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.364-371
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• 2015

This study investigated and analyzed Sadanggut for General Namyi, Agisee Gutdang in Haengdang-dong, Dodanggut in Bonghwa Mountainto examine the type and characteristics of official hats for shaman's costumes based on Seoul village gutas a spiritualistic shaman revealing the divinity of music for gutthrough singing, dancing, divine material and official hats. Commonly worn official hats were Goggal(conical hats), Jeonlip(soldier's felt hats), and Heuklip(black hats) for Seoul village gut as the object of thisstudy. Each official hat had a close relationship with subjects for divinity and musical meaning for gut. Julip(Red hats), Jokduri(bride's headpiece), helmets, Iksubgwan(King's official hat), and Daesu(Queen's a big wig with various hairpins) were also worn. Official hats worn for Seoul village gutwere understood to symbolize divinity and raise authority and dignity to the public through aggressive appearance, exaggeration and splendor. Concretely, official hats at Seoul village gut first had roles to materialize the divinity of each music of gut. Second, recognized as a part of performance or traditional culture in present day, aggressive official hats were favored to supply splendid attraction and maximize scenes of divined heroic epic poem in gut. Third, for Seoul village gut, colors and silhouettes of modern traditional costumes were reflected pursuing partial change and focused on exaggeration and splendor to express the mirth and festival of gutwhile maintaining traditional costumes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권8호
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• pp.1190-1201
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• 2007

This study is to review the costumes of female Shamans through Gamrotaenghwa(甘露幀畵) in the late Joseon Dynasty of the 18th and 19th centuries. The picture of Mudangnaeryeok(巫堂來歷) showing Shamanic performances which is kept in Kyujanggak, Seoul National University was the only one thing enabling to compare with the Shamanic costumes shown in Gamrotaenghwa. The earlier Gamrotaenghwa doesn't show the Shamanic features but that of the later part of 18th century shows specific costumes so that the scene of Shamanic performance can be guessed. The Shamanic costumes are classified into 5 types. Type A is considered to have followed the figures shown commonly in earlier Gamrotaenghwa of the 16th and 17th centuries, rather than the traditional costumes. Types B through E show the costumes of the Joseon dynasty. With the basic costumes of skirt and Chogori(a kind of jacket, Type B), the variable costumes worn for each type of Shamanic performances are Mongduri(蒙頭里, Type C), Jeonbok(戰服, Type D) and Cheolrik(天翼, Type E). Reviewing the general style of those costumes, the upper part was tight and the lower part was silhouette of big volume, and the length of Chogori was a little long in the early of 18th century but it became shorter with narrower sleeves from the later part of the same century. According to the general literatures about the outer collars were not overlapped and its side parts were open, with half or no sleeves. In case that the target of Shamanic performance is male god, the Shaman wore the male costumes represented by Cheolrik and Jeonbok. Because these Cheolrik and Jeonbok which were worn during the Shamanic performance have the symbolic meaning to correspond with the male god, they didn't function as ordinary costumes.

• 복식
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• 제15권
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• pp.121-130
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• 1990

This study is focused on the swinging and trembling effect expressed in Korean costume from ancient days to the present. The swinging is a term standing for gentle movements that are created and implied by the long ties, strings, tassels, pendants and hanging ornamentations. These attatched elements of the costume move as the wearer moves. Trembling is a term expressing small vibrating movement which is created by the tiny decorative motifs attatched to Korean costume. This little decorative elements were attatched to the royal crown, earings, necklaces even the sole of the metalic shoes for a change and to draw viewers attention. The Swinging and Trembling have been used mainly to express the decorative desires. The Swinging on shaman costume is a expression of the aesthetics of evil's eye, while the Swinging shown on the costume of a schalor is expressing the beauty of personality and nature. In General during the Choson Period, the Swinging of the tassels, ribbons, string belts is a expression of the beauty of nature. Consequently the Swinging and the Trembling are the typical examples of the "Meot"(멋), Korean traditional aesthetics.

• 복식
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• 제34권
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• pp.195-208
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• 1997

1) The color of JOGORI and CHIMA was such gorgeous and those garments were put on during the events of GAM-EUNG-CHUNG-BAI HO-GU-GEO-RI JO-SANG-GEO-RI DEWT-JUN and CHAN-BOO-GEO-RI. 2)BULSA-JANG-SAM(JE-SUK-GEO-RI) was white colored and had wide sleeves putting on a pink priestrobe and a pink belt on it 3) they put on HONG-CHUL-NIK(GU-REUNG) and CHONG-CHUL-NIK(DAE-GEO-RI). 4)They put on GOO-GUN-BOK(JUN-RIP JUN-BOK(BYUL-SUNG-GEO-RI) DONG-DA-RI(Expel the demon) 5) MONG-DOO-RI(MAN-SIN-MAL-BYUNG) put on the garment constructed with the color and from of a white straight collar a wide sleeve and a pink belt 6) A long robe was colored with green (GAM-EUNG-CHUNG-BAI) and was used not as a headdress but as a man's overcoat. 7) CHANG-EUI was a green colored small CHAHG-EUI(SUNG-JO-GEO-RI). As observed above the Shaman apprel during Chosun Dynasty is a part of the traditional clothing originated from THE THEORY OF THE COSMIC DUAL FORCES and THEORY OF THE COSMIC DUAL FORCES and the FIVE ELEMENTS (i.e. metal wood water fire and earth) It's basic form and wearing method were not so different from the traditional clothing silmilar to the official uniform during Chosun Dynasty and the official uniform was the symbol of authority(almost almighty) at that time of period and to that the Shaman apparel was constructed with the more gorgeous colors to emphasize the sanctity or the descent of the Divine Being from heaven. We realized that a Shaman had put on the symbolic garment suitable for the grade and nature of the Divine Body at every events to enter into " The World of Gods"Gods."

• 복식
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• 제55권8호
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• pp.57-72
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• 2005

Mongdueui(蒙頭衣) and mongduri(蒙頭里) in the Joseon dynasty was one of women's robe. The style of Mongdueui was same as Chinese baeja(褙子 $\cdot$ vest) having non-overlapping front opening with collar, This form was conformed through the wonsam excavated baeja from tomb of South Song dynasty. The basic construction was same as Joseon dynasty's except the collar. In the early Joseon dynasty the noble women wore Jangsam(長衫) as an outer wear, the common and lower class women wore Mongdueui, and the queen and royal household we baeja. The court lady wore baeja as well as Mongdueui for funeral ceremony. The style of women's robes was classified into two categories by the literature Byungwajip(甁窩集). The first was the hongjangsam(紅長衫長) in red for noble women. The other was the mongduri for the common lady. Whangchosam the outer wear of Jeongjaeyong(呈才女伶), a professional women entertainer, having non-overlapping front opening with collar, has been examined in the painting. And it had been evolved into the shaman's clothing in the last stage of Joseon dynasty.

• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.57-69
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the costume represented In human clay figures of ancient Shilla dynasty. The results of this study could be summarized as follows: 1. Horse-riding clay figures of Gumryoung tomb. At first, human-A wears a brimed-triangular hat, a Jacket, a checked pants. The brimed-triangular hat is decorated with bird-feather shape. Besides, a jacket is tied with a waist belt, and the waist belt is connected with a shoulder belt and a squared block of back. Also round bells are decorated 15 in the hat, 4 In connection points of the waist belt and the shoulder belt, and 13 in the squared block of back. Human-B wears a hairband type hempen hood, a Jacket, a pants with vertical stripes. and something is rounded from right shoulder to left side. It is one of the symbols as a shaman. 2. Other clay figures. The hats examined from other clay figures are \circled1 Triangular hat, \circled2Hat decorated with bird-feather shape, \circled3 Brined hat and \circled4 Hairband type hempen hood. Next, six kinds of hair styles examined are \circled1 a topknot, \circled2 a slanted topknots, \circled3 two topknots on both sides, \circled4(round) chignon, \circled5 hair tied at the top and plastered down, and tile last, \circled6 ponytailed style on both sides. The costume examined is a jacket and a pants.

• 복식
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• 제60권1호
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• pp.56-75
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• 2010

Jeju island is located in far from main land and has very harsh environment that has formed an unique clothing style as well. In addition, the popular belief has been developed with originality even their clothing. Therefore, this study is concerned with costumes worn for various ritual events and to analyze their features in Jeju. The shamanism served 18,000 gods are composed to 12 different types of the events for wealth, safety, heath, sadness or thanks. The costumes worn by officiating priests or 'Simbang(shaman)' depend on the occasion of an event, and they are different for male and female performers. The styles of costumes for religious service can be divided into 7 types: Regulation dress(Jebok), Korean full-dress attire(Dopo), Official uniform(Danryung), Military uniform(Gunbok), Formal dress (Durumagi), Casual wears and Special costumes. The costumes for religion events are not various and splendid as compare with another province in Jeju. Because, when simbang expired, their clothings had been burned according to custom. However, It is important materials for us to know the clothing of time. We should keep studing that costume more as a valuable culture.

• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.83-91
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• 1993

Signifying clothes can be defined as a process in which a clothes obtains a symbolic meaning by confining its use and purpose. In this paper we catagorize the process of signifying clothes that appears in the Byongkut as follows : first removing the clothes, secondly putting on the clothes, and thirdly burning off the clothes. Removing the clothes is a process of dramatic realization and clearly shows proven facts about the things that will occur in the process. Putting on the clothes is a process of falsified expression in which the interest is transferred from the person who wears the clothes to the clothes itself by the shaman's insinuation who leads an interpretation about the clothes. Buring off the clothes is a pro-cess of mystification in which the end of Byongkut is sublimated mistiriously by making the partici-pants believe with the burning that the clothes and the diseases have been curred, and therefore, the ritual is kept from spoiling. The clothes used in Byongkut that religious belief and belief system are expressed through behavior style, and that supernatural power is designed to reveal is related with the various aspects of symbolic life indicated by the clothes.