• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제35권1호
• /
• pp.237-256
• /
• 1997

Women's clothes which represent feminity was one of the female oppression polices in the society of phallocentric sexual order. Many women were eager to good-looking as a comouflage for inferiority of their own sex which was the theory of fashion of Freud. He insist that it's the driving force for women fashion. Thight-lacing corset high heel and foot-binding which was made for men's pleasure limited women's social activity and unfortunately recycled. Such clothes or shoes makes women belong to men's power but its also one of the self controls for women. The materialization and sex objects of women was due to fashion which encouraged by men. Many facts of fetish gradually emerged I fashion and fetishism itself is no more than sexual perversion or low class sex culture. This paper is focused on relationship between fetishism and fashion which approaching based the feminism. We investigated how human ambivalence which persuit both modesty and fetishism is manifested in clothes. We also compared modern fetish fashion with corset and shoes which are sterotypes of classic fetishism

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제5권5호
• /
• pp.49-64
• /
• 2001

Fur is conceived as a material signifier, not only with its commodity value as luxury goods but also as its symbolic value as objects invested by one's libidinal desire. In this study, complex meanings of fur as multi-layered signs of political and sexual power focusing on fetishism shall be explored, especially on the spectacle fetishism acted by mass media during the anti-fur movement in the 1980s. In conjuction herewith, a highlight shall also be made to the symbolic value in fashion design since 1990s. In this study, first, as a theoretical investigation, fetishism, that has been traditionally considered only as sexual fetishism in fashion discourse will be explored in socio-economic level. Second, in historical context, how the meanings and values of fur have become realized in various cultural spaces, such as literature, art, film and finally, fashion will be viewed. In fashion, fur is a product of desire and power influenced by commodity fetishism as well as sexual fetishism. During the anti-fur movement, mass media has developed the concept of spectacle fetishism. Fur is a sign of animal-victim, and fur-clad women is viewed with images full of imperialsm, sexism and racism, thus act as derisive spectacles of consumerism. Since 1990s as a reflection on anti-fur movement, fetishistic characteristics, which challenge traditional operation method, are expressed by disguise, parody, and returning to the nature. First, fur as disguise is intended to hide sexually perverse, decadent characteristics and expensiveness of fur by texturing or patterning techniques. Second, fur as parody uses fake fur or dyed fur in order to satirize erotically and ethnographically fetishized meanings of fur. Third, aboriginal design of fur is adapted to use symbolic values outside the West, which can potentially mobilize antagonistic oppositions out of their fetishistic regimes. In conclusion, fur as sign of female sexuality and its libidinal profits of exchange, has significant symbolic values expressed in fashion.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권4호
• /
• pp.173-187
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fetishist characteristics and the aesthetic values of glamour style based on the premise that fetishism is the theoretical root of glamour style expressed in fashion throughout history. The following results are from analysing fetishist characteristics of glamour style. First, luxury was analysed from an angle of commodity fetishism. Every culture develops images and stories that portray a world in which its ideals are realized: a paradise, a utopia, a golden age, etc. Consumer goods often serve as 'bridges to these ideals'. People thus can fantasize about owning the perfect life. Crucially, however, they must never get everything they picture. That is why luxuries often take on displaced meaning. Glamour gives the displaced meaning visual form, making it beautiful and real. Second, the attention on the glamour of luxury goods as a bridge to ideals is connected to the glamour icon who is simultaneously a consumer of these luxury goods and a producer of cultural goods. Glamour icons including the courtesan of the late 19th century, the actress of the 1930s' Hollywood golden age and today's celebrities appear to efface the traces of production and create fetishist images in culture. Through this artificial principle, the commodity-cum-glamour icon comes to life as a splendid image of spectacle. Third, masquerade and seduction were analysed from an angle of sexual fetishism. A magnificent image of masquerade as sexual fetishism is often equated with femininity, especially in Hollywood movies, because the artificial seduction of the feminine -namely glamour- can be effected by the absence or silence of being. That is to say, the aesthetic revelation of femininity coincides with the fleshing out of artificial signs. Masquerade and the seduction of the feminine are connected with glamour's artificial sensuality from this point. Fourth, since 1980's when homosexuality as sexual deviation resurfaced as a hot topic, sexual ambiguity and bisexual image have gained attention as perverse sexuality. Next came queer theory, which reduced gender itself to a matter of surface rather than depth. According to queer theory, gender itself can be revealed as a kind of drag act. Drag's imitative performance may reveal that womanliness is just about 'dragging up'. Queerness as a decadent play makes a connection with the wicked origins of glamour. From these characteristics, four aesthetic values were deduced: ostentatious luxury and mysterious idolatry by commodity fetishism, artificial sensuality and playful queerness by sexual fetishism.

• 혜화의학회지
• /
• 제8권2호
• /
• pp.329-339
• /
• 2000

I got the following result from the bibliographic study of disease in relation to sexual psychology. The results are follows. 1. Sexual disorder is divided sexual disfunction, paraphilias, gender identity disorder, homosexuality and that is subdivided fetishism, transvestic fetishism, pedophilia, exhibitionism, voyerism, sexual masochism, sexual sadism, frotteurism, gender identity disorder of childhood, gender identity disorder of youth and adult, intersexual disorders. 2. In korean oriental medicine mainly refer to sexual disfunction, and sexual psychological disorder include Hwajeon(花癲), Buinmongio(婦人夢交), Guabusani disease(寡婦師尼病). 3. Social psychologic cause and, oedipus complex, sexual hormone induce sexual psychological disorder but in korean oriental medicine, recognized sexual psychological disorder place under the category of sexual disfunction. 4. The latest medicine has various medical treatment in sexual disorder as avoidence conditioning, medication, role playing, behavior modification, psychoanalysis theraphy but in korean oriental medicine has only medication theraphy, so need more introduction of medical treatment.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제15권6호
• /
• pp.1063-1071
• /
• 2006

Fetishism, which has been a taboo for a long time, is stimulating the modem people's emotions by being reborn as a fashion trend by a number of designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Claud Montana. Especially, Jean Paul Gaultier, called the bad boy of the fashion industry, is leading the Paris fashion world by expressing his unique fetish elements with his fantastic and uncommon ideas-males' wearing of skirts, wearing underwear like outer garments. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating how his fetishism is shown in his works, understanding his fetish fashion world in the modem fashion and offering a new stepping-stone for fashion designers to actively participate in new fashion areas. Its results are as follows. First, it was found that the sensual designer Jean Paul Gaultier has been expressing his unique fetish elements in his collections like the following three styles of fetishism-fetishism by physical emphases, fetishism by items, fetishism by material. Second, the symbols of voluptuous beauty reflecting his own fetishism could be found in his movie costumes, license areas and given plots. Third, the work describing Jean Paul Gaultier's fetishism as a fetish image with the concept of Fantasy of Missing was evaluated as a successful work to express an internal sexual desire.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제7권2호
• /
• pp.323-333
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study was to analyze the meaning and formative features of the black color reflected on the fetish fashion. This study was proceeded mainly by analyzing with references and plates of magazine. The results of the study were as follows ; First, the sexual liberation and revolution have certainly led to a reassessment of sexual deviations, which changed the meaning of fetishism that has been only regarded as sexual perversion, so that it symbolied a new sexual perception and identification. As the result, black in fetish fashion was symbolized a new fetishism\`s definition which refused to distinguish male from female, and also reflected the meaning to express the second sex that wanted to express themselves. Second, the formative features of black color in fetish fashion have appeared tightness and bareness in form, and in material, glancing materials changed by the effect of light, and elasticity materials-leather, rubber, PVC, and laycra. By these features, black fetish fashion has drawn a higher attention on human body than the dress itself as a symbol about the psychology of erotic sensations and sexual images of the self appearing in black color.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제1권1호
• /
• pp.74-81
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is to review the relationship between modern homosexuals' costume tendency in socio-cultural terms and the garment tendency reflected as high fashion and thereby, determine the homosexualism being established as a recent fashion trend. The homosexualism shown in the fashion were categorized into three aspects; a resistant tendency departing from the conventional controlling culture, a fetishism or perversion tendency satisfying in sexual inclination by emphasizing certain physical parts or using certain items, and play to express a sexual identity departing from the fixed social view. The homosexualism being suggested as new fashion trend in this society dominated by the post-modernism art must mean an integrated sense of sex just beyond a simple perversion to express the self-identity in a natural way. It is conceived that the homosexualism would be expanded towards a new horizon of costumes as long as the division of sexes becomes more obscure and the decentralized bipolarization for mutual co-existence between two sexes continues to be main stream of fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제39권3호
• /
• pp.353-368
• /
• 2015

Walter Van Beirendonck expresses a fairy tale world of perverted sexual desire of sadism and masochism, violence, and aggressiveness that breaks from a transient one-time concept as is an essential element of fashion. This study classifies the aesthetic characteristic shown on the design of Walter Van Beirendonck and analyzes the intent of his symbolism and meaning. The attempt has a meaning in exploring a new directionality of fashion by conveying a critical message to this end, contemporary fashion breaks down boundaries with artistic genre and connects a problematic consciousness that exists in life with fashion. The results of study on the aesthetic characteristics of Walter Van Beirendonck are as follows. First, Beirendonck emphasized an interpersonal image about body by giving a question through the deconstruction of image on a perfect body into race, age, and body based on body modification. Second, fetishism appeared as a consciousness that human identity and character can be changed by connecting a fetish element of sexual identity, and sadism and masochism with fashion's imagination. Third, infantilism as an amusement expression of the form metaphorically satirized life of modern people. Fourth, makeup shown on performance or festival of an African tribe was used in the way of mixture or reuse for ethnography to obtain inspiration from ethnography. Fifth, pop art combined a popular culture code as amusement through mass production and mass media. Aesthetics of Beirendonck do not have norm and are bold in using form, color, pattern, print, and styling because Beirendonck reinterpreted critical attitudes about essential problems that human life entails into a motif of his symbolic meaning in amusement. In regards to his design aesthetics, Beirendonck expanded fashion to the scope of Gesamtkunstwerk in a consistent and continued theme combined with philosophical creativity and differentiated from other fashion designers.

• 복식
• /
• 제51권1호
• /
• pp.163-174
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to review the features of eroticism expressed in men's fashion, to explain psychological and social contexts which engender eroticism and to analyze in what way eroticism is portrayed in men s fashion in this context. Eroticism as the metonymy of forbidden sexual desire, has been embodied mostly in visual forms such as picture and photo. From a psychoanalytic view, the context in which eroticism is formed can be explained by primary narcissism and fetishism. Primary narcissism is the feeling of satisfaction with the self in which the subject who is admiring and the object of admiration are one and the same. Accordingly, in order to give rise to eroticism, both subject and object have to exist. Fetishism, the metonymy of castrated penis, is also one of the factors to produce eroticism. Metaphorically seen as a woman who has a penis, a man who dresses in the same manner as a woman dresses can be a source of eroticism to gays. From a sociological view, the context in which eroticism is fostered depends on the dynamic relations among social powers. In these relations, who is a subject or who is an object has been continuously changing. In the Post-modern culture appearing in the late 20th century, power begins to take various forms, and gays and women who had never been subjects begin to make man an object of eroticism. The other point is that social morality, ignoring desire itself, objectifies sexual desire and seeks to remove It by exchanging it for objectified symbols. The design elements provoking eroticism in men s fashion are exposure and decoration. In particular, models in exposure and decorative fashion have been objectified through the methods of fragmentation rather than showing the whole figure or removing a person s individuality or will,.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제1권3호
• /
• pp.218-230
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is -under the post-modem situation- to emphasize the role of women which has various several logic on feminism, to look forward to division of men's consciousness of women, and to reflect a trend to accept the role of sex which is occurring in the system of sex, that is, 'The Third Gender and Homosexuality'. The category of biological and sociocultural on feminism discussed, meantime expressed the sexual logic under post-modern situation, and probed the sexual logic on feminism which was expressed in modem dress and its ornaments by redefining some characters as follows; Imitation-it was to attain masculinity by imitating the body of the opposite sex. Interaction such situations like...... masculinity in women, feminity in men was demonstrated as transvestism of cross-dressing and the symbolic meaning of homosexuality was demonstrated in the shoes of sociocultural on Feminism. Dispersion appeared as a moderation charm and a resistance against the men-ruling culture. Destruction-expressed the fetishism of punk of porny image and maternal affectional image of biological trend as playful satire. Therefore, It is conceived that Feminism would be created true human-phase come true in the men's world as long as the realization of women themselves make the phase of women higher; and further not only propose new image of women but the system of gender.