• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.1 no.2
• /
• pp.154-159
• /
• 1999

In this study, for different test methods of the performance of sewing threads were used to evaluate the sewability of 10 different industrial threads. Sewability evaluations related to the breakage of thread during sewing operation were investigated by seam length and fabric thickness method (Test 1), thread tension method (Test 2), strength retention method (Test 3), and backward sewing method(Test 4), and discussed. Two of the methods, Test 1 and Test 2, simulated very harsh sewing conditions which each thread could accept as an evaluation of its sewability. Core spun thread ranked with the best sewability generally and followed by air jet textured (ATY) thread. Spun thread was superior to the filament thread in sewing thread type. In general, there was a high degree of correlation in the results of Test 1 and Test 2. The order of sewing thread by sewability test 1 was polyester spun thread, cotton thread, and p/c core spun thread. The order of sewing thread by test 2 was polyester spun thread, and p/c core spun thread. Cotton threads and cotton blended threads performed better in Test 3, and ATY threads and core spun threads in Test 4.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.41 no.1
• /
• pp.60-70
• /
• 2017

This study selects representative materials and sewing methods used to: produce medical compression clothing in domestic garment, understand physical properties according to sewing conditions before and after knitting, and propose a sewing method that can improve the functional properties of the medical pressure clothing for burn patients. This experiment used samples from two knitted fabrics of high-frequency, produced and sold among fabrics used to produce medical compression clothing in Korea. Sewing methods were N321, N502 and N601, most commonly used in the press clothing industry. Fabric A is most often reduced in EMT values when sewing N502. However, N321 and N502 are suitable sewing methods for the reliable to twist at the larger torsional shear and the larger 2HG, 2HG5 value. Fabric B is sewn with N601, the EMT value is the most elevated, LT value is also low and extensibility improves after sewing. N601 is shown as an appropriate sewing method for warp knitting. When sewing with N321, the torsional is stable but elongation is lacking. N502 is not good for torsional stability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.7
• /
• pp.88-102
• /
• 2010

The research examines the characteristics of the sewing methods used for women's Jeogori in modern Korea. The results are following. In the 1920s sewing of shoulder parts was started, and in the 1930s sewing by hand had reduced by dissemination of sewing-machine, and in the 1940s the Som-jeogori declined by the matter of economic and sanitary issues. In the 1950s four-fold sewing emerged, and during the 1960s the gause-lined triple-layered Jeogori was in fashion, and in the 1970s the Ggaeggi-jeogori and much elaborated Jeogori became in vogue. The characteristics of the sewing methods are changed by following factors. First, the dissemination of sewing-machine in the 1930's enabled fast and precise sewing of Jeogori which reduced the rate of clothes mending and the production period. Second, by development of washing method, the dry cleaning became common, resulting cleaner washing and better preservation. Third, introduction of western clothes gave rise to modernized Han-bok which was changed into practical and simple one. Fourth, by the introduction of synthetic textile and industry development, Jeogori with no armhole line or right Seop line was made using wide selection of textiles. Fifth, in 1945~60s, women learned' good wife and wise mother' education and the use of sewing machine in school. The clothing lifestyle affected the sewing method's change, for example, clothes sewed strongly by sewing machine not to take clothes apart, and attaching button instead of Go-reum to save clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.27 no.6
• /
• pp.66-84
• /
• 2023

Handbags are a part of fashion and while their significance and value are increasing, research on this topic is lacking. This study defines handbags and categorizes the materials used for making handbags, sewing methods, expression techniques, and terminologies related to accessories. A total of 1,743 handbags that were released from the Spring 2020 to Fall 2023, Ready-to-Wear collections by 8 selected brands (Hermes, Dior, Fendi, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Gucci, and Alexander McQueen), were analyzed. Out of these, 732 unique designs, excluding those with only color variations, were studied. The most common sewing methods were 'Cut, sewing, and edge painting', 'Cylinder arm sewing', 'Cut, edge painting, and sewing', and 'Inverted seam', in that order. Slim strap designs primarily used the 'Cut, sewing, and edge painting' method, whereas the body, especially with narrow and hard leather, was best suited for the 'Cylinder arm sewing machine'. For expression techniques, the most frequently used methods were 'Quilting', 'Metal Eyelet', 'Embossing', 'Printing', 'Punching', and 'Weaving', respectively. The characteristics of each brand's production methods, expression techniques, and accessories were as follows: First, the exposure of logos and monograms is prominent. Unlike clothing, handbags often prominently feature the brand's logo or monogram. Second, signature quilting is a prominent feature. Quilting effectively conveys the brand's signature style, providing cushioning, volume, and pattern effects. Third, sustainable development is a growing trend. Brands are increasingly applying eco-friendly and socially responsible designs.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.6
• /
• pp.927-934
• /
• 2014

Today Hanbok, the symbol of our nation's culture, has been preserved as cultural heritage despite natural and social environmental changes over years. This study is analyzing Hanbok which were taken in the National Skills Competition from 2000 to 2013; it presents our traditional stitching methods and clarifies the pride the Hanbok artisans have as inheriting the traditional heritage. Therefore this paper contributes to continuous and proper development of the culture of Hanbok and being loved by many people. The assignments about Hanbok featured in the National Skills Competition were categorized by national and local competition, time required to produce assignments, required amount of fabric, type of stitching, unlined and lined clothes depending on the type of assignment; according to the classification, methods for sewing were analyzed in detail. First, the national tournament presented 12 kinds of sewing techniques; especially hand-sewn stitching method appeared in common. Second, the unlined and lined clothes depending on the type of assignments had applied different sewing methods; double-stitching, flat fell seam, french seam, roll over sewing, blind stitch, right angle blind stitch, decorative saddle stitching, darning, etc. were used. Sewing methods in the 21st century has not changed over the years; the shape of clothes was changed upon trends. Sewing became easier than before by the invention of sewing machine, we should carry on our traditional sewing techniques. Through this analysis on sewing methods of the National Skills Competition, I hope to support competition participants for studying Hanbok and indicate proper sewing techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.6
• /
• pp.1-14
• /
• 2011

With the trend of wearing mountaineering wear as casual apparel as well as a continuous increase of mountaineers, mountaineering wear market has rapidly grown. New techniques to improve mountaineering apparel have been developed. Construction Without Sewing(CWS) is one of them. It is a sewing technique to improve performance and functions of new functional mountaineering apparel. CWS employs a welding machine with an adhesive tape and press instead of sewing so that it makes the apparel lighter and have better wearability, durability, and windproof and waterproof function, than sewed apparel. This study focuses on the concept, nature, and applications of the mountaineering wear manufactured by CWS. It also made an analysis of manufacturing process, and proposed three designs for the mountaineering wear created by CWS. With introducing the merits of CWS, the costumers will be have better understanding of CWS and break their stereotype that functional clothing is simply expensive without considering its benefits.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.75-84
• /
• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.42 no.3
• /
• pp.474-485
• /
• 2018

Smart sensors and connected devices have changed the concept of garments along with IT technology convergent garments that transform the performance of basic functions. Various types of products have been researched and developed due to the increased interest in smart clothing; in addition, studies based on physical and mechanical properties have also been actively studied to improve accuracy and reliability. This study represents a basic study for the development of smart textiles based on motion recognition for the surfing practice of beginners interested in IT convergence type. A physical durability evaluation of conductive yarn according to sewing method was later carried out. This study is a conditional specimen sewn with cotton lower thread and 100mm pattern length based on the results of previous studies. The durability of the conductive yarn according to the sewing method was evaluated according to the sewing method. Durability was evaluated by two kinds of repeated strain and abrasion tests. The specimen with applied cotton in a lower thread zigzag pattern 2mm stitch size 100mm stitch length was shown to have the most suitable durability for smart textile.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.673-681
• /
• 2005

Sewing is an important process in clothes-making. It is directly or indirectly connected to a factor of fitness, as is the case of pattern making and design. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the sewing methods for tight skirts currently being sold by twelve clothing companies on the market. For the purpose, the skirts, which was released in 2002 Fall season, was physically disassembled and then every sewing detail was closely investigated. The major findings are as follows: All sorts of the skirts show different sewing methods in hemlines, back slits, and zipper. Hemlines and zippers, hand-sewn, are often used by high-price brands. Brands that emphasize trends usually use machine sewing. Specifically, the sewing methods applied in the allowances at the upper part of the back slit show significant differences among brands. One method leaves allowances enough in both sides for the stability of the skirts, another trims both allowances very closely, and the other trims only left-side allowance down to the edge of the back slit. This study findings will be helpful not only in understanding sewing techniques for skirts and improving its quality, but also in offering more comfortable and superior clothes for consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.8
• /
• pp.120-136
• /
• 2008

This study examined sewing methods used to reinforce the opening of clothes of the Joseon period. Through the analysis of a total of 117 clothing items of the Joseon period, the following results were obtained. 1. Most costumes of the Joseon period had the opening. The purpose of the opening was to allow one to put on and take off a costume, act comfortably, and turn a costume Inside out. The opening was located on the Side, Conte. Back, fgwi(Side opening of pants), Wristband, Armhole, and Godae(the bark part of the collar). 2. As the opening tended to get easily worn out, it was often reinforced. The 1911owing three methods were used to reinforce the opening of clothing items of the Joseon period: a method to attach a cloth such as Dang, Binding, and Badae; a method using a variety of knots; and a method by sewing stitches such as a sort of cross stitch called Satteugi, Prick stitch, and Loop. 3. The most frequently used reinforcing method was the one that used a knot(34 items), followed by the one by sewing Satteugi(27 items), and the one using Dang(25items). The most frequently detected location of the opening was Side(59 items), followed by Agui(37 items), Wristband(19 items), and Center Back(13 items). 4. The reinforced opening made a costume more endurable and elastic, decorative and neat.