• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.927-934
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• 2014

Today Hanbok, the symbol of our nation's culture, has been preserved as cultural heritage despite natural and social environmental changes over years. This study is analyzing Hanbok which were taken in the National Skills Competition from 2000 to 2013; it presents our traditional stitching methods and clarifies the pride the Hanbok artisans have as inheriting the traditional heritage. Therefore this paper contributes to continuous and proper development of the culture of Hanbok and being loved by many people. The assignments about Hanbok featured in the National Skills Competition were categorized by national and local competition, time required to produce assignments, required amount of fabric, type of stitching, unlined and lined clothes depending on the type of assignment; according to the classification, methods for sewing were analyzed in detail. First, the national tournament presented 12 kinds of sewing techniques; especially hand-sewn stitching method appeared in common. Second, the unlined and lined clothes depending on the type of assignments had applied different sewing methods; double-stitching, flat fell seam, french seam, roll over sewing, blind stitch, right angle blind stitch, decorative saddle stitching, darning, etc. were used. Sewing methods in the 21st century has not changed over the years; the shape of clothes was changed upon trends. Sewing became easier than before by the invention of sewing machine, we should carry on our traditional sewing techniques. Through this analysis on sewing methods of the National Skills Competition, I hope to support competition participants for studying Hanbok and indicate proper sewing techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.88-102
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• 2010

The research examines the characteristics of the sewing methods used for women's Jeogori in modern Korea. The results are following. In the 1920s sewing of shoulder parts was started, and in the 1930s sewing by hand had reduced by dissemination of sewing-machine, and in the 1940s the Som-jeogori declined by the matter of economic and sanitary issues. In the 1950s four-fold sewing emerged, and during the 1960s the gause-lined triple-layered Jeogori was in fashion, and in the 1970s the Ggaeggi-jeogori and much elaborated Jeogori became in vogue. The characteristics of the sewing methods are changed by following factors. First, the dissemination of sewing-machine in the 1930's enabled fast and precise sewing of Jeogori which reduced the rate of clothes mending and the production period. Second, by development of washing method, the dry cleaning became common, resulting cleaner washing and better preservation. Third, introduction of western clothes gave rise to modernized Han-bok which was changed into practical and simple one. Fourth, by the introduction of synthetic textile and industry development, Jeogori with no armhole line or right Seop line was made using wide selection of textiles. Fifth, in 1945~60s, women learned' good wife and wise mother' education and the use of sewing machine in school. The clothing lifestyle affected the sewing method's change, for example, clothes sewed strongly by sewing machine not to take clothes apart, and attaching button instead of Go-reum to save clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.66-84
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• 2023

Handbags are a part of fashion and while their significance and value are increasing, research on this topic is lacking. This study defines handbags and categorizes the materials used for making handbags, sewing methods, expression techniques, and terminologies related to accessories. A total of 1,743 handbags that were released from the Spring 2020 to Fall 2023, Ready-to-Wear collections by 8 selected brands (Hermes, Dior, Fendi, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Gucci, and Alexander McQueen), were analyzed. Out of these, 732 unique designs, excluding those with only color variations, were studied. The most common sewing methods were 'Cut, sewing, and edge painting', 'Cylinder arm sewing', 'Cut, edge painting, and sewing', and 'Inverted seam', in that order. Slim strap designs primarily used the 'Cut, sewing, and edge painting' method, whereas the body, especially with narrow and hard leather, was best suited for the 'Cylinder arm sewing machine'. For expression techniques, the most frequently used methods were 'Quilting', 'Metal Eyelet', 'Embossing', 'Printing', 'Punching', and 'Weaving', respectively. The characteristics of each brand's production methods, expression techniques, and accessories were as follows: First, the exposure of logos and monograms is prominent. Unlike clothing, handbags often prominently feature the brand's logo or monogram. Second, signature quilting is a prominent feature. Quilting effectively conveys the brand's signature style, providing cushioning, volume, and pattern effects. Third, sustainable development is a growing trend. Brands are increasingly applying eco-friendly and socially responsible designs.

• Journal of Appropriate Technology
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.70-81
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• 2019

The garment industry is one of the most labor-intensive manufacturing industries, with its sewing process relying almost entirely on manual labor. Its costs highly depend on the efficiency of this production line and thus is crucial to determine the production rate in real-time for line balancing. However, current production tracking methods are costly and make it difficult for many Small and Medium-sized Enterprises (SMEs) to implement them. As a result, their reliance on manual counting of finished products is both time consuming and prone to error, leading to high manufacturing costs and inefficiencies. In this paper, a production tracking system that uses the sewing machines' energy consumption data to track and count the total number of sewing tasks completed through Convolutional Neural Network (CNN) classifiers is proposed. This system was tested on two target sewing tasks, with a resulting maximum classification accuracy of 98.6%; all sewing tasks were detected. In the developing countries, the garment sewing industry is a very important industry, but the use of a lot of capital is very limited, such as applying expensive high technology to solve the above problem. Applied with the appropriate technology, this system is expected to be of great help to the garment industry in developing countries.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.357-374
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• 2020

This study suggests the use of standardized sewing terms for the construction of smart sewing systems. This study analyzed the use of stitches (ISO 4915) and seams (ISO 4916) for cut and sewn knit garment which are the basic elements of sewing on an ISO basis. The results of the analysis of sewing specifications of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, the use of stitches and seams were analyzed. As a result, both stitches and seams were used as non-standard terms. Second, among 3,263 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401, 504, 605 were the most frequently used; however, ISO 4915 No. 514 was anticipated the most because the ISO 4915 No. 514 used for joining was not recorded in the sewing specification. Finally, the use of stitch for each seam was analyzed. The most common stitch used for ISO 4916 No. 6.02.07 was ISO 4915 No. 406. In addition, when it was sewing ISO 4916 No. 4.04.01, ISO 4915 No. 504 was used in step 1, and ISO 4915 No. 406, 602, and 605 were used in step 2. It is important to use the international standard sewing terms for the production site based on the results. In addition, the construction of smart sewing systems and the work of international standardization through industry-university cooperation are important for securing global competitiveness. Therefore, the use of international standard terminology and practical training should be conducted with a focus on stitching and seams with high frequency of use.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.467-475
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to examine the sewing construction of a double robe, the difference between the single and double robe, and the size and construction method of the double robe through a close analysis of a replica to facilitate a better understanding of the robe making in late Chosun dynasty. The results were as follows: 1. There was no significant difference in the design and sewing method between the girl's robe and an adult's even though the girl's robe was much smaller. 2. The girl's robe differed from its modern counterparts in some respects: unlike modem robes, Chungyun's robe consisted of two-layers in which the four layers were sewn together and it could be seen most clearly in the way the collar was stitched only onto the outer layer. The two layers seemed to be put on successively since they were not sewn together. The inner collars of the two robes were sewn together when the maker put on a coat string to the outer robe, and the two robes were put together with hemming and blind stitch at the top of the outer collars to make the robe formally stable, which clearly distinguished the princess' robe from a single, for example, four-layered robe. The robe was constructed using traditional sewing methods including broad stitch, back stitch, hemming, and blind stitch, and each stitch was only about 1 mm wide. 3. The maker of the robe managed to construct a formally stable and aesthetically satisfactory robe with the least amount of fabric and proper sewing methods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.62-74
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• 2015

The purpose of this research is to analyse the process of development and verification of 'National Competency Standards' of Hanbok production, which was carried out in 2013 for the fashion industry. As the result of this research, the definition of the duty in Hanbok production is 'to conduct a series of step-by-step processes of planning and developing fabric and design, then making pattern, cutting fabric and sewing.' The competency unit for Hanbok production is analyzed in 10 categories: analysis of market trends, design plan, production and manipulation of fabric, production process plan, sample making, pattern making, cutting out, sewing, finishing sewing, inspection of the product quality. Competency unit elements of each competency unit are as follows. 1) analysis of market trends: to research market trend resources, to analyse consumers' buying trend, to analyse industry changes, 2) design plan: to develop design, to plan fabrication, to draw flats, 3) production and manipulation of fabric: to develop fabric planning, to prepare fabric manipulation, to conduct fabric manipulation, 4) production process plan: to grasp design, to plan sewing method, to prepare a specification sheet, 5) sample making: to make a sample pattern, to cut sample fabrics, to sew sample, to finish sample making, 6) pattern making: to measure body, to make production pattern, to adjust production pattern, 7) cutting out: to care fabrics, to lay out patterns, to cut out fabrics, 8) sewing: to sew a garment, to sew a lining, to attach a lining, 9) finishing sewing: to neaten edges, to attach trims, to press to finish, 10) inspection of the product quality: to confirm correspondence with the specification sheet, to inspect appearance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.179-188
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• 2019

Domestic apparel products labeled as 'Made in Korea' in the Chinese market are recognized as a high quality products due to the influence of the Korean Wave (Intergen Consulting Group, 2007). This study analyzes the patterns and order arrangement types of a fashion brand company commissioned to produce apparel in Seoul, Korea in order to rebuild a network of small sewing factories scattered in Korea, reorganize operations, and to find the possibility of regenerating the Korean sewing industry by establishing contact points with domestic sewing factories. We surveyed 100 apparel brand companies in Seoul listed in the 2014/2015 Korea Fashion Brand Annual (Apparel News, 2014) and conducted a questionnaire survey on the company's general management status, type of fabric materials dealt with, and major contact points and methods of production handling. The frequency analysis indicated that the main production material with cloth type was woven fabric with ladies' clothes. The Planning MD team has the highest rate of ordering production with delivery method to the production factory after purchasing fabric and trims. Most respondents answered that they would select a production factory based on recommendations from acquaintances. This was due to a lack of no objective indicator provided by the sewing factory at present and the absence of objectively proceeded communication with brand companies. In this study, we analyze various conditions and measurements for production arrangements from a fashion brand company to revitalize sewing factories in Korea.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.96-111
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• 2002

The aim of this study was to suggest appropriate factors for production pattern making of women's clothing. Sample pattern designers and production patterners of 13 women's brands were individually interviewed about pattern making process and factors necessary. The results were as follows: The factors to be considered in pattern making were categorized in three groups. 1. Factors to be considered to achieve the correct use of specific materials: elasticity, shrinkage, lining and interlining 2. Factors to be considered to satisfy the design specifications: silhouette, dart distribution, collar and sleeve, trimming 3. Factors to be considered for better sewing quality: skillfulness of the sewer, sewing methods and sewing equipment. 4. Suggestions were made for appropriate factors. A focus-group-interview in pattern design has been interviewed to verify the suggested factors. The factors were presented as a guide to develop the production pattern. 5. For better usage of the factors, standardization were suggested for making process with necessary factors for jacket, skirt.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.75-84
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• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.