• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.96-111
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• 2002

The aim of this study was to suggest appropriate factors for production pattern making of women's clothing. Sample pattern designers and production patterners of 13 women's brands were individually interviewed about pattern making process and factors necessary. The results were as follows: The factors to be considered in pattern making were categorized in three groups. 1. Factors to be considered to achieve the correct use of specific materials: elasticity, shrinkage, lining and interlining 2. Factors to be considered to satisfy the design specifications: silhouette, dart distribution, collar and sleeve, trimming 3. Factors to be considered for better sewing quality: skillfulness of the sewer, sewing methods and sewing equipment. 4. Suggestions were made for appropriate factors. A focus-group-interview in pattern design has been interviewed to verify the suggested factors. The factors were presented as a guide to develop the production pattern. 5. For better usage of the factors, standardization were suggested for making process with necessary factors for jacket, skirt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1057-1064
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• 2004

Silk, polyester, cotton, and wool fabrics were embroidered with varying stitch length of 3mm, 5mm, and 10mm to examine the difference in fabric shrinkage in terms of sewing direction, fabric thickness, cover factor, stitch length, and fiber type. Warp, filling, and bias direction of sewing resulted in no difference in fabric shrinkage. Within the samples with same stitch length, there was less fabric shrinkage in fabrics with higher fabric thickness or higher cover factor. There was larger shrinkage when sewn with longer stitch length. Comparing fabrics with different fiber types but similar fabric thickness, silk and polyester fabrics showed the smallest fabric shrinkage and wool fabrics showed the largest shrinkage. It is shown that similar fabric shrinkage between silk and polyester is due to the similarity in cover factor.

• Smart Media Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.85-94
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• 2024

Artificial Intelligence of Things (AIoT), which combines AI and the Internet of Things (IoT), has recently gained popularity. Deep neural networks (DNNs) have achieved great success in many applications. Deploying complex AI models on embedded boards, nevertheless, may be challenging due to computational limitations or intelligent model complexity. This paper focuses on an AIoT-based system for smart sewing automation using edge devices. Our technique included developing a detection model and a decision tree for a sufficient testing scenario. YOLOv5 set the stage for our defective sewing stitches detection model, to detect anomalies and classify the sewing patterns. According to the experimental testing, the proposed approach achieved a perfect score with accuracy and F1score of 1.0, False Positive Rate (FPR), False Negative Rate (FNR) of 0, and a speed of 0.07 seconds with file size 2.43MB.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.269-278
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• 2011

This study aims at setting up productive capacity which can be usefully utilized for work management of apparel manufacturers. So as to achieve this goal, an apparel manufacturing company which has been operated by miniline system in Seoul was selected. Standard time and man-hour were calculated to create the accurate productive capacity by observing and measuring a work flow included cutting, sewing and finishing processes. And the result is as following. The standard time for each process was presented as cutting process 47004.5s, sewing process 671050.5s and finishing process 22426.3s. And 15284.4ms was computed as total procession man-hour per day of the manufacturer which is organized of 16 people. Also, the procession man-hour for each process was revealed as cutting process 396.7ms(2.6%), sewing process 14509.3ms(94.9%) and finishing process 378.5ms(2.5%). +Surplus was found in the productivity for each process included the cutting process(outshell, lining and seam process), the sewing process(preparation and arrangement process) and the finishing process. But, additional man-hour 52436.18ms was required because the productive capacity was calculated as -surplus(-13.9%) in the sewing process(part and assembly process). Therefore, a work schedule was planned based on the previous result. However, loading can be ideal when a capacity and a load become '0'. The object company should find the way to reduce allowance(26.25%) of the sewing process through reconstruction of consciousness and improvement in functions with analyzing works of operators. Also, they need to consider an additional supplement of the personnel.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.467-475
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to examine the sewing construction of a double robe, the difference between the single and double robe, and the size and construction method of the double robe through a close analysis of a replica to facilitate a better understanding of the robe making in late Chosun dynasty. The results were as follows: 1. There was no significant difference in the design and sewing method between the girl's robe and an adult's even though the girl's robe was much smaller. 2. The girl's robe differed from its modern counterparts in some respects: unlike modem robes, Chungyun's robe consisted of two-layers in which the four layers were sewn together and it could be seen most clearly in the way the collar was stitched only onto the outer layer. The two layers seemed to be put on successively since they were not sewn together. The inner collars of the two robes were sewn together when the maker put on a coat string to the outer robe, and the two robes were put together with hemming and blind stitch at the top of the outer collars to make the robe formally stable, which clearly distinguished the princess' robe from a single, for example, four-layered robe. The robe was constructed using traditional sewing methods including broad stitch, back stitch, hemming, and blind stitch, and each stitch was only about 1 mm wide. 3. The maker of the robe managed to construct a formally stable and aesthetically satisfactory robe with the least amount of fabric and proper sewing methods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.113-122
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• 2006

In this study, about forty teaching materials have been analyzed in order to examine tight skirt sewing methodtreated in basic process in a college and a fashion related educational institution. The study objects limited with a belt, back centered zipper, and back double slits on a tight skirt, and used fifteen suitable teaching materials in this study. The first study result appeared that every single teaching material suggested the different way of wick adhesion which is used in zipper slit, back slit, and belt part when the skit has been manufactured in order to do a form of clothes well. Secondly, it is the case of a back slit part used for the purpose of both functionality of action and decoration, and it is the section which varies a sewing and cutting way according to seam room width of a back middle seam. However, the majority of teaching materials appeared by being selecting the way how it had cut an inseam of the back center by the both upper part of back slit. Finally, the result showed that it mentioned mainly only both sided zipper sewing method if it seems to be easy to treat the majority in a basic process even though use of a console zipper Is general on a zipper sowing way recently for several years. Also, two forms are used in the belt manufacturing, and they are based with a waist line. However, the teaching materials that were used in this study presented only a manufacture way of the straight line on the waist belt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.62-74
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• 2015

The purpose of this research is to analyse the process of development and verification of 'National Competency Standards' of Hanbok production, which was carried out in 2013 for the fashion industry. As the result of this research, the definition of the duty in Hanbok production is 'to conduct a series of step-by-step processes of planning and developing fabric and design, then making pattern, cutting fabric and sewing.' The competency unit for Hanbok production is analyzed in 10 categories: analysis of market trends, design plan, production and manipulation of fabric, production process plan, sample making, pattern making, cutting out, sewing, finishing sewing, inspection of the product quality. Competency unit elements of each competency unit are as follows. 1) analysis of market trends: to research market trend resources, to analyse consumers' buying trend, to analyse industry changes, 2) design plan: to develop design, to plan fabrication, to draw flats, 3) production and manipulation of fabric: to develop fabric planning, to prepare fabric manipulation, to conduct fabric manipulation, 4) production process plan: to grasp design, to plan sewing method, to prepare a specification sheet, 5) sample making: to make a sample pattern, to cut sample fabrics, to sew sample, to finish sample making, 6) pattern making: to measure body, to make production pattern, to adjust production pattern, 7) cutting out: to care fabrics, to lay out patterns, to cut out fabrics, 8) sewing: to sew a garment, to sew a lining, to attach a lining, 9) finishing sewing: to neaten edges, to attach trims, to press to finish, 10) inspection of the product quality: to confirm correspondence with the specification sheet, to inspect appearance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.179-188
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• 2019

Domestic apparel products labeled as 'Made in Korea' in the Chinese market are recognized as a high quality products due to the influence of the Korean Wave (Intergen Consulting Group, 2007). This study analyzes the patterns and order arrangement types of a fashion brand company commissioned to produce apparel in Seoul, Korea in order to rebuild a network of small sewing factories scattered in Korea, reorganize operations, and to find the possibility of regenerating the Korean sewing industry by establishing contact points with domestic sewing factories. We surveyed 100 apparel brand companies in Seoul listed in the 2014/2015 Korea Fashion Brand Annual (Apparel News, 2014) and conducted a questionnaire survey on the company's general management status, type of fabric materials dealt with, and major contact points and methods of production handling. The frequency analysis indicated that the main production material with cloth type was woven fabric with ladies' clothes. The Planning MD team has the highest rate of ordering production with delivery method to the production factory after purchasing fabric and trims. Most respondents answered that they would select a production factory based on recommendations from acquaintances. This was due to a lack of no objective indicator provided by the sewing factory at present and the absence of objectively proceeded communication with brand companies. In this study, we analyze various conditions and measurements for production arrangements from a fashion brand company to revitalize sewing factories in Korea.

• Safety and Health at Work
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.51-56
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• 2021

Background: Neck pain is a major public health problem among sewing machine operators working in textile factories. Even though the textile industries are growing in number in Ethiopia, but there is a dearth of published studies on the prevalence of neck pain. Therefore, this study was aimed to assess the prevalence and associated factors of neck pain among sewing machine operators of garment factories in Mekelle city. Method: An institutional-based cross-sectional study design was implemented among 297 sewing machine operators' working in garment factories in Mekelle city. A systematic random sampling technique was used. Data were collected through interviews and analyzed using Statistical Package for Social Science version 23. Finally, variables with 95% confidence interval (CI): p < 0.05 in the multivariate analysis were significantly declared. Results: Two hundred ninety-seven sewing machine operators were enrolled, with 98.7% response rates. In this study, the 12-month prevalence rate of neck pain was found to be 42.3% (95% CI: 36.6%-47.9%), and variables like such as break time [adjusted odds ratio (AOR): 5.888, 95% CI: (2.775-12.493)], working hours per day [AOR: 6.495, 95% CI: (2.216-19.038)], static posture [AOR: 4.487, 95% CI (1.640-12.275)], and repetitive activity [AOR: 4.519, 95% CI:(2.057-9.924)] were associated with neck pain. Conclusion: In this study, neck pain is a major public health problem. Continuous work without break time, working greater than 8 hours per day, sitting in the same position for greater than 2 hours, and high repetitive activities were found significantly associated with neck pain. Owners and governmental bodies need to focus on developing preventive strategies and safety guidelines.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.129-141
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• 2021

This study investigated fabrics, washing and cares, design, pattern, subsidiary materials, and sewing methods with a focus on the functional outers using moisture-permeable waterproof fabric as a shell; in addition, each element was analyzed for differences depending on fabric type. The characteristics of 34 outers were investigated through labels, online product introductions, visual inspection, observations from two experts with more than 30 years experience and wear tests. Moisture-permeable waterproof fabrics used for the outer were classified into two types; in addition, the shell of the high-density fabric and the 2 & 3-layer fabrics had different characteristics. Various fabrics, detailed designs, and three-dimensional patterns suitable for each part of the human body were used to improve functionality. In addition, various subsidiary materials and sewing methods were used to form an organic relationship. The same washing and cares, patterns and subsidiary materials were used regardless of fabric type; however, the fabric type influenced the detailed design and sewing. The outers with high-density fabric had a loose fit, short placket, e-banded cuffs, lock-stitch, and lock-stitch+binding. However, the outer with 2 & 3 layer fabric had a slim fit, hood width adjustment, zippered pockets, cuffs with tab, seamless adhesive sewing such as laminating, lock-stitch+ seam-sealing, and welding.