• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.169-180
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity, the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and tole ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part I of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the fashion system in the Victorian period will be reviewed. following are the conclusion : First, in the Victorian period, the value of femininity is put on the body of female by the discrimination of sex divided in two. Consequently, the characteristics of femininity mainly include dependence, passiveness, emotion, beauty, maternity, innocence, and purity. To emphasize the function of reproduction as primary duty and nature of female, the ideal beauty of body is represented in the form of Venus Naturalis, which symbolizes the fertility. And the external form of this body is expressed in slum waist line, ample busom and hip in fashion. Second, the features of this fashion are classified into three categories by their internal value : images of subordinate female, sensual female and maternal female 1) The image of subordinate female is expressed by concealment of legs, tightening the upper part of the body in corset and restriction on action by the crinoline 2) The image of sensual female is revealed in brazing colors and decoration, excessive exposure of the upper part of the body and hip by means of bustle. 3) The image of maternity is expressed in swollen skirt of crinoline, oval bustle silhouette metaphoring the extended womb resulted from pregnancy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.5-24
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.789-808
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• 2010

The orientalism in fashion is believed to develop from the eclectic notion of oriental and occidental fashion. By studying on Gabrielle Chanel's clothing that is usually used by neutral colors and on Yohji Yamamoto's clothing that characterizes clothes in neutral colors, the purpose of this study is to seek ways for remaking Korean traditional clothing into a new modern one to gain a world reputation in terms of clothes. Therefore the study is for exploring the characteristics on the factors of fashion design such as color, line and textile materials with works of Gabrielle Chanel, a famous designer in Western world who has made a black color a popular one for people and works of Yohji Yamamoto, an well-known fashion designer of the East using neutral colors. This study analyzed, from the 2004 S/S to the 2006 F/W, the collection of works published in style.com through the works of Gabrielle Chanel, Yohji Yamamoto, and through the analysis of the visual target. A total of 527 images are used in this paper. Elements of fashion design analysis are lines, colors, and materials. The study reached the conclusion as follows after analyzing the characteristics on clothing with neutral colors of Gabrielle Chanel and Yohji Yamamoto. In case of aesthetic characteristics on the design of Gabrielle Channel, it has expression of feminist, sensual, modern and luxury. It is considered that Gabrielle Channel has a luxury image using a neutral color. Also using simple sleeveless in black and tweed structure, the garments have mixed with neutral colors. Fashion design characteristics on the design of Yohji Yamamoto classified into sensual, modern, ascetic expression. Therefore the design has a simple expression of using a black color. Yohji Yamamoto is a designer who pursues unstructured design by using various neutral colors such as black, gray and white based on the oriental sentiment.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.143-151
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• 2014

Nowadays, space branding becomes more important since it reflects and synthesizes the diverse experiences of the consumer. The objective of the research is to present the new possibilities that space branding offers by analyzing the brand strategy and the design characteristics of branded hotels, which are being projected as constructed branded environments. By integrating the brand with visible or invisible elements of the hotel, such as unique space planning, service, and consumer experience, a branded hotel can be a good vehicle to reflect fast changing consumer lifestyles and trends; it enables the consumer to experience brands in his or her everyday life, and it conveys the overall image of the brand by considering the consumer's multi-sensual experiences. The study processed with theoretical research which is related to the hotel space and branded environment. Four brands were selected with distinct business area and brand strategy, and studied to analyze the strategy and the characteristics of the branded environment in a branded hotel. In particular, the case study attempted to evaluate the distinctiveness of the branded hotel's spatial design by comparing each brand's representative flagship store with the hotel. As a result, four characteristics of branded environments in branded hotels were identified, namely, strengthen brand image, consistent brand strategy, extend brand perception, spatialize brand experience. Armani emphasizes their consistent brand image by applying similar design methods in both retail stores and hotel spaces. IKEA, in contrast, applies not their design identity but their brand concepts like practicality, efficiency, and low prices. Pantone gives an expanded brand experience by using synesthetic sensual stimulation using their color system. Missoni mixes and composes their patterns and materials in a three-dimensional manner and strengthens design possibilities and spatiality. This study suggests specific design methods to construct a branded environment in a branded hotel and offers new strategic directions for space branding.

• 제어로봇시스템학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.35.5-35
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• 2001

The purpose of the study is to develop a synthetic method for generating arbitrary number of not the same but similar texture images. The method includes processes to extract basic shape elements from texture images originating in actual objects, to select them to reappear the image features and to arrange them in a image plane. The authors have already proposed the shape-pass type filter bank assuming that the sensual impression mainly depends on minute shapes existing in the texture images. By use of nine basic shape elements, namely black/white-roof, black/white-line, black/white-snake, black/white-pepper, and cliff, natural texture images originating in actual objects have been characterized by feature vectors in a nine dimensional space. To generate arbitrary number of similar texture images, minute shape pieces ...

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.327-338
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• 2001

The purpose of this thesis is to study the aspects of sex identity in the contemporary mens fashion expressed through sexual image and taste in the half of twentieth century. The aspects of sex identity expression in the contemporary mens fashion can be classified by image, that is, homosexual, heroic, bisexual, and fetish. 1. The homosexual image has shown the tendency to emphasize the masculinity since 1950.60s. It can be found in \"Cowboys costume\" which is typical of American traditional fashion, and jeans and underwear fashion expressed by muscular men has homosexual characteristics which contain narcissism. 2. Based on mens traditional gender role, the heroic image emphasizes mens physical characteristics and expresses tough and offensive masculine beauty in mens suit which is free from the authority and formality. 3. The bisexual image denied the division of gender role by costume and destroyed the traditional sex model by resolutely applying womens costume such as skirts to mens fashion. 4. The fetish image is similar to bisexual image in that they wear womens costume, but different in that it expresses sexual desire or fantasy. It is expressed through brilliant color, leather and metal ornaments, and sensual element of women which emphasizes \"body\". This shows the sex identity of contemporary men who want more sensible and free life.sible and free life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.173-184
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• 2000

The purposes of this study is for consideration of the flapper image through the culture and novels in Jazz Age(1919∼1929) of America. The back ground of flapper fashion was Jazz. Jazz was one of the cultural languages which expressed liveness, noise, salacity, harmony of primitivity, modernity, innocence and freedom. In processing American had gotten economic power, the Jazz Age had new mood which was combined materialism and realitism. Environmental changes of life styles and development of mass culture of modern big cities could aid the birth of modern girls, flappers. They became the main group of new consumer and mass culture in new consciousness and freedom with independence. Their characteristics are confirmed from Fitzgerald's novels, This Side of Paradise and The Great Gatsby. As the results of above, the consciousness of flapper were rebellious attitude, liberalism and actualism. The designs of flapper fashion were expressed by simplicity, functionality, nudity and rhythm. The flapper images are as follows: First, they expressed modern image as a rebellious attitude. Second, flapper had a sensual image of freedom through rhythmical and speedy expression. Third, premature image for pursuing youth could be found. Therefore the changes of culture and women's life styles are very important points for fashion studies and the connecting fashion and other fields like novels is needed also for it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1076-1087
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• 2004

The purpose of the study is to give new aesthetic values of black dress one of the important items in contemporary women＇s fashion. Through the work, to give the new aesthetic characteristics that women really needed can be found. This study was processed by fashion books and articles, literal material with fashion photos which were related fashion trend from 1920 to the present. The results are as follows: In early 20th century, the black dress, which had simple form pursuing function like little black dress. In the middle of the 20th century, elegance and minimalism was represented by black dress, expressed erotic images together with see-through fabrics. In the end of the 20th century, body conscious style of black dress expressed sensual images of women. Modem black dress has design characteristics of the form: simple, close, exposure type and of the materials: matte, transparent and dazzling etc. Simple type emphasizes feminine elegance, while close type and exposure type disclose woman body curve to express erotic images. Matte materials made black dress express feminine elegance while transparent materials and dazzling materials made black dress express erotic and sensual beauty. The aesthetic characteristics of black dress were as followings: Sensualism expresses sexual attractiveness of women-close type and exposure type black dress and see-through materials and dazzling materials made black dress. Simplicity of extreme decoration effects are expressed through black dress having temperate and simple form. Femineity expresses traditional femineity to emphasize chaste, modest and elegant women images-the black dress, which is made of simple form, velvet and satin materials. Modernism combines black colour, which is called modem colour, with simplicity and function factors and pursues simple form. Ascetic practice controls mental and physical desire of the individuals, simple form without decoration covering up woman body and box type silhouette of black dress. Therefore, the study on image of the black dress, which have made appearance at modern fashion, is thought to help develop fashion trends and design, through which modern women express themselves and their beauty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.963-978
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• 2008

This study examined the images and formative features of female characters portrayed in fantasy films. This study aimed at providing an applicable theory to modern fashion by reconsidering the images of women appearing in fantasy films and arranging fantastical features reflected in costumes of female characters. The followings were the results of the study: The first divine nature that human beings discovered was woman nature. The discovered stone worked of the prehistoric age had a meaning of the great mother of universe and expressed a positive image. Such positive images of the goddess were variously differentiated to negative images or reduced in their roles and meanings in the settlement process of patriarchy as well as sociocultural transition. The foremost examples of negative image were expressed as grotesque, destructive, otherness, sensual, and exotic. The positive image of a goddess in fantasy films was not especially emphasized. On the other hand, the negative images of the goddess and the case of costumes were variously expressed as well as emphasized the typicality of the negative image of the characters. It was reconsidered that the typical features of characters in fantasy films were a result of the image of women following sociocultural transition. In addition, it was confirmed that such result was being reflected in film costume.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.131-144
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• 2015

The object of this study was to find out the influence of female consumers' cosmetics purchase experience on image-making efficacy and cosmetics pursuit benefits. Total 405 surveys of women working at the industrial complex in Daegu-Kyoungbuk area were used for data analysis. Frequency, factor analysis, reliability analysis, regression analysis, and ${\chi}^2$-test were used for data analysis. Our findings are as follows. Cosmetics purchase experience of female consumers had factors as recognition experience, relationship experience, emotional experience, visit experience, and sensual experience. The factors of image-making efficacy were self-confidence in displaying, ability of facial expression and display ability while those of cosmetics purchase experience turned out to be trend/brand pursuit, appearance improvement pursuit, functionality pursuit and economic feasibility pursuit. Cosmetics purchase experience was found to have significant effects on the factors of image-making efficacy, and cosmetics purchase experience on factors of cosmetics pursuit benefits. The differences by ages variable was examined with relation to the level of make-up and how they chose products when buying.