• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.57-72
• /
• 2010

The purposes of the research were to find out the clothing construction factors of the mechanical industry working clothes by analyzing the working clothes supplied to 5 subject companies; and to suggest the optimized sewing conditions and the seam strength and elongation experimental data according to the clothing material and seam types implied to the working clothes collected. The fabric types and trimmings used for the mechanical manufacturing working clothes were Polyester/Cotton(65/35%), Polyester/Rayon(65/35%), Cotton(100%); and linings, interlining, various fastenings etc. 2 stitch types, i.e. lock and two-thread chain stitches were applied to the construction of the flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped and bound seams for the seam strength and elongation experiment. The results derived from the experiment were as follows. (1) The seam strength results according to the seam types were high in the order of lap felled>lapped>flat, superimposed and French seams. (2) Considering the features of the seam construction, as the number of fabric layers at the seam line increased the seam strength also increased. (3) Apart from the highest seam strength from the experiment using the net lining with the main fabric, the seam construction consisting of two fabric layers with the interlining showed relatively high seam strength results. (4) The seam elongations according to the stitch types were high in the order of two-thread chain>lock stitches.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.13 no.3
• /
• pp.418-424
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study was to reveal the effects of the seam type on the fabric drape to provide the basic knowledge for proper seam type according to the design of sewing products. Seven kinds of specimens were constructed with seam (no seam, welt seam with over-edged finish, welt seam with bias bound finish, plain seam with over-edged finish, plain seam with bias bound finish, french seam, and flat fell seam) in wrap direction of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18 cm diameter supporting disks, and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Significant differences were found in drape coefficient by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed higher drape coefficients compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. Node numbers in the drape profiles showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens, however, no significant differences were observed in node numbers by the seam types. Significant differences were found in the length of the seamed part by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed longer length of the seamed part compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. The ratio of the maximum length in the seam direction to the maximum length perpendicular to the seam direction showed significant differences by the seam types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.45 no.1
• /
• pp.46-55
• /
• 2021

Seam puckering and the seam strength of conductive threads used to produce smart clothing were analyzed according to stitching methods and fabrics. Samples were prepared in a lock stitch and zigzag stitch on plain woven and jersey knit fabric, using one type of polyester sewing thread and three types of commercial conductive threads that consisted of two types of stainless-steel conductive threads (TST and MST) and one type of silver conductive thread (SSV). Seam pucker percentages, shapes, and seam strength were measured. On plain woven fabric as well as jersey knit fabric, three-ply TST and MST showed a higher SP percentage compared to a polyester sewing thread. Meanwhile, single-ply SSV showed the lowest SP percentage. In addition, the SP percentage of the zigzag stitch decreased along the weft and course directions of the fabric, and decreased significantly as the number of fabric layers increased. Moreover, there was a marked tendency for a higher SP percentage in jersey knit fabric compared to plain woven fabric, and the two-dimensional cross-section waveforms of stitches obtained using three-dimensional data that showed increased irregular waveforms and peaks in the zigzag stitch. There were no correlations between seam strength and tensile strength.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.7 no.4
• /
• pp.433-438
• /
• 2005

Seven commercial lining fabrics normally used in a market were selected: plain-weave fabrics with polyester, nylon, rayon and acetate fiber, and polyester textured yarn, in addition, polyester fabrics with plain, twill and satin weave. Then seam strength, seam efficiency, resistance to slippage of yarns and type of seam destruction were examined related to endurance by textiles in sewing capability of the lining fabrics. In results, as tensile strength was greater, seam strength got greater, which shows tensile strength and seam strength have close relationship. Tensile and seam strength of acetate fabric were the least, but seam efficiency was the greatest. It presents that strong tensile and seam strengths do not show high seam efficiency at the same time. Various types of seam destruction have been shown. When tensile strength of the sewing thread was greater than tensile strength of fabric, fabric destruction was occurred before the sewing thread destruction. When tensile strength of the fabric was greater than seam strength, the sewing thread destruction was occurred. Resistance to slippage of yarns got greater as tensile strength of the fabric got greater. The plain-weave fabric, which tensile strength of fabric was smaller, showed the greater resistance to slippage of yarns than twill and satin weave fabrics. The stretch fabric revealed the optimal lining fabric with the greatest resistance to slippage of yarns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.23 no.1
• /
• pp.66-77
• /
• 1999

For this study It was measured the seam puckering based on the mechanical properties of tencel under the proper condition of needlework and machine sewing analyzed the mechanical properties which re influenced to the seam puckering and estimated the seam puckering based on the mechanical properties. The results of this study are as follows : There are three types of the seam puckering for each step which is caused by repeated washing and press. Concerning the seam puckering with the number of washing the more the number of washing is increased the less the seam puckering is decreased. Concerning the mecanical properties of the sample with the seam puckering. The seam puckering is related to LT positively B, 2HB, T, W negatively Among the mechanical properties LT, B, 2HB, T, W are most influenced to the seam puckering. Judging from the result of estimating seam puckering based on mechanical properties the estimate-formula is satisfied in this study.

• Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
• /
• v.5 no.1
• /
• pp.144-149
• /
• 2001

There are many types of seam tracking methods actually used in industrial spot. Lately, Non-contact sensor technics are mostly used because non-contact sensor has more advantage than contact sensor in many parts. This paper also concerned about fiber sensor a kind of non-contact sensor. X-Y robot and fiber sensor scan the seam tracking to be weld. After scanning, X-Y robot moves the first working point of being scanned and welding starts automatically. It makes an experiment on some types of Seam tracking like straight line tracking, leaned line tracking and curved line tracking to confirm how well the fibers sensor tracks the seam pass to be weld. And the seam pass that had been tracked was welded by inverter $CO_2$ voiding machine.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Information and Commucation Sciences Conference
• /
• 2000.10a
• /
• pp.558-561
• /
• 2000

There are many types of seam tracking methods actually used in industrial spot. Lately, Non-contact sensor technics are mostly used because non-contact sensor has more advantage than contact sensor in many parts. This paper also concerned about fiber sensor a kind of non-contact sensor. X-Y robot and fiber sensor scan the seam tracking to be weld. After scanning, X-Y robot moves the first working point of being scanned and welding starts automatically. It makes an experiment on some types of Seam tracking like straight line tracking, leaned line tracking and curved line tracking to confirm how well the fibers sensor tracks the seam pass to be weld. And the seam pass that had been tracked was welded by inverter CO2 welding machine.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.6
• /
• pp.1010-1020
• /
• 1997

For this study, we did needlework of the sample considering practical aspects of production and consumption of silk, high-quality material for women's clothes, and then analyzed the state of the seam puckering after press and dry cleaning, estimated the Seam Puckering based on the mechanical properties of silk related to machine sewing, and examined the effects which Mechanical Properties have on Seam Puckering closely. Through this, we reach the following conclusion. 1. There are three types of seam puckering for each stage, which are caused bathe smoothness of the surface by press, and the difference between the shrinkage rates of fabric and sewing thread by Dry Cleaning. 2. In analyzing seam puckering classified by each step, seam puckering after sewing the fabric is related to WT negatively, while to RT and W positively. Seam puckering after sewing and pressing the fabric is related to WT, RC, MMD negatively and seam puckering after sewing, pressing anddry cleaning the fabric isrelated to WT negatively, too. 3. Concerning the mechanical properties of the sample with a little seam puckering, WT, LC, WC, RC, MMD, SMD is relatively large while RT, B, 2HB is small. 4. Judging from the result of estimating seam puckering based on mechanical properties, the estimate-formula is satisfied in this study.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Precision Engineering Conference
• /
• 2005.06a
• /
• pp.1376-1380
• /
• 2005

In recent automotive industry, vehicle weight can be reduced by one-step forming of tailored blanks welded with two or more sheets of metal blanks. Tailored blank(TB) welding is a production method for blanks involving welding together materials of different quality, thickness, and coating, and has proved popular in fabrication automotive parts. This paper deals with the forming characteristics of mash seam welded tailored blanks. Using these forming characteristics, the bumper beam was developed using the mash seam welded tailored blank with the different thickness. We performed the forming simulation with respect to strain distribution on blank during the stamping of the bumper rail part. Based on these results, we made some stamping tryouts with selected types of blank designs to investigate the formability of tailored blank with different thickness. During the tryouts, we knew that it was important the BHF(Blank Holding Force). We obtained to reducing 10.5% weight and cost with adapting the bumper beam of automotive component using the tailored blank of mash seam welding.

• Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
• /
• v.6 no.8
• /
• pp.1374-1380
• /
• 2002

Recently, the use of Robot increase little by little for the purpose of developing a welding quality and productivity in the welding part. It is more important to contact the seam for arc welding before moving a welding robot. There are two types of method to contact the seam namely contact and non-contact type largely. In this paper, image processing sensor(a kind of non-contact sensor) is concerned to track the seam by using laser diode and CCD camera. A structured laser diode's light illuminated on the weld groove and the reflected shape is introduced by CCD camera. The image board captures this image and software analyzes this image. The robot is moved and welded exactly as acquired image X-Y data is changed with robot's X-Y value. Also, most of seam tracking are considered by changing the program simply in case of the different weld groove of plane surface.