• 복식
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• 제27권
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• pp.163-171
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• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on he past costume is getting more importance and as the methodology of the study the accurately ap-proached study through the rehabilitation of the past costume is more needed than the simple re-arrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The S-line silhouette remains be-cause of the straight silhouette or the blossom style bodice. This dress has various types of sil-houette but generally it forms one silhouette and is one-piece. 2) color and Material: The material varies hile the color is divided as the main color of ivory and the stress color of brown. This shows not only that the material has been varied but also that they tried to reduce the monotony. 3) Pattern and Sewing: The simple external figure and the previous stage typically shows the movement to the simplicity of the contemporary and the num-ber of patterens is plenty and the sewing method is also complex. 4) Detail. To overcome the simplicity of the style and to show the characteristics of the afternoon dress the skunk fur the net the sash, and the bow are used. 5) Structural Characteristics: The front open-ing the back opening and the side opening coexists in one-pieced dress and this forms unique structure and complex fastening device. The ribbon tape and casing not only finish the seam but also fix the shape of the dress. Synthetically the 1913-14 afternoon dress has the characteristics of transitional stage in which the characteristics of the costume of 1910s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the character-istics of afternoon dress well in terms of the ma-terial the structure and the detail.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.187-199
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• 2009

Recently, the quality and design of the children's wear is being improved remarkably. Following the trend, the need for the research on the pattern making of children's wear is growing. At first, we tried to find out how the industry is doing the pattern making job through interview. Results are as follows. The target age ranges from 5 to 11 years old. For the sample size of pattern making, 7 years of age is preferred. It is not usual to develop the design pattern from the bodice block pattern. Instead, they use middle block pattern for each item, such as blouse, shirt, pants, skirt or jacket. Starting from these middle block pattern, they prepare individual designs. With the results, the aim of the research became to develop one of most frequently used middle block pattern. The blouse block pattern was selected for that purpose. To look into the existing patterns, we selected 4 methods, i.e. NM-method, T-method, O-method, E-methods. Theses patterns were compared through wearing test for the evaluation of comfort and fit using trial garments. The results indicated the NM-method was best among them. Specially waist line position, shoulder shape and size allowance was adequate. Alteration and adjustment of pattern draft was made onto the NM-method. Allowances for the bust circumference, across chest, across back and depth of arm was adjusted for better comfort as well as fine fit. Sidelines of the bodice and the underarm seam of the sleeves were curved for styling. After another wearing test, the final pattern was suggested as a blouse block pattern for 7 years old girl.

• 한국소성가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국소성가공학회 2005년도 추계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.247-250
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• 2005

The need for improved fuel efficiency, weight reduction has motivated the automotive industry to focus on aluminum alloys as a replacement for steel-based alloy. To cope with the needs for high structural rigidity with low weight, it is forecasted that substantial amount of cast components will be replaced by tubular parts which are mainly manufactured by the extruded aluminum tubes. The extrusion process is utilized to produce tubes and hollow sections. Because there is no weld seam, the circumferential mechanical properties may be uniform and advantageous for hydroforming. However the possibility of the occurrence of a surface defect is very high, especially due to the temperature increase from forming at high pressure when it comes out of the bearing and the roughness of the bearing, which cause the surface defects such as the dies line and pick-up. And when forming a extruded aluminum tube, the free surface of the tube becomes rough with increasing plastic strain. This is well known as orange peel phenomena and has a great effect not only on the surface quality of a product but also on the forming limit. In an attempt to increase the forming limit of the tubular specimen, in the present paper, surface asperities generated during the hydroforming process are polished to eliminate the weak positions of the tube which lead to a localized necking. It is shown that the forming limit of the tube can be considerably improved by simple method of polishing the surface roughness during hydroforming. And also the extent of the crack propagation caused by dies lines generated during the extrusion process is evaluated according to the deformed shape of the tube.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권5호
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• pp.846-858
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• 2008

This study was designed to propose a method to draft bodice block pattern from 3D body scan data. Subjects were ten elderly women in their 60's, who wear basic size(B: 94cm, W: 82cm) garment. Scanning was done using 3D whole body scanner(WB4, Cyberware). Measurements for 3D data and cross section were attained using Auto CAD, by which a upper bodice pattern for elderly women was drawn on the basis of short measured method. The results are as following: As for most items, no significant differences were shown between measurements from Martin's anthropometry and those from 3D scan data, suggesting measurement from 3D scan data could be used to draft a pattern. The drafting equations acquired were as follows; width of pattern=B/2+5.5, width of waist=W/2+3.5cm, dart amount=8cm. Dart distributions were 23%(B.P.) : 20%(front armpit) : 17%(side seam) : 18%(back armpit) : 15%(back protruded point) : 7% (center back line). Through wearing test using 5-point Likert scale, resultant pattern was evaluated as appropriate for elderly women's pattern to get over 4 point. As a result, it might be said that 3D scanning application is effective for elderly women in that it doesn't take time so much as Martin's anthropometry and that their body shape vary compared with those of young women.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.892-907
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to compare torso pattern made by draping and flat pattern method in terms of the size of breast. The size of this study was classified as 75A and 75D according to the size of breast. Each torso pattern by the combination of the size and pattern method was compared and analyzed. In order to test the fit of the draping and flat pattern that was developed according to the size of breast, the outer appearance was evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, The most striking size difference was difference between the front and the back on bust line level, which decides on position of the side seam in comparison of size between draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. In the flat pattern, the difference between the front and the back in the size of breast was consistent regardless of a change in the size of breast. However, in the draping, the bigger breast led to the bigger difference between the front and the back on bustline level. Second, the flat pattern in 75D was evaluated to be the worst in 27 items among total 46 items for the evaluation of outer appearance in the draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. Third, regardless of size, the draping was evaluated to be more suitable in the areas related to neck, arm hole, and waist dart than the flat pattern. These results are suggesting that the draping is a method of reflecting characteristic of the body type more accurately than the flat pattern, and that the draping is a more suitable method than the flat pattern for the design of clothing pattern of the body type with big breast like 75D.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.391-404
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to identify the consumers' demands on functional design of sports climbing pants. Data were collected through a field survey. 82 male and 70 female amateur sports climbers in Seoul participated. The questionnaires measured aspects of functional design in sports climbing pants, specifically motion adaptability, comfort and aesthetic value of the climbing pants. The results of this study show that comfort during climbing postures was the most important value of the climbing pants. The subjects sought motion adaptability at the hip, crotch, thigh and knee. The preferred style and degree of fit of climbing pants were differed according to gender. Men preferred loose or semi tight fit style climbing pants but women preferred the leggings style of the sport pants. The soft touch seam line and body shaping function were also important for women. The type of pants preferred for sports climbing also differed by the climbing experience period. Men began to wear the outdoor mountaineering style pants when they had experienced sports climbing for 6 months and to wear the climbing expert style pants when they had experienced sports climbing for a year. Most women wore leggings style sports pants from the beginner stage. This study also analyzed Korean market trend in 2016~2017 F/W for sports climbing pants design. The men's pants were more likely to be designed to improve mobility compared to the women's pants, even though the aesthetic value of the sports climbing pants was important for women.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.81-97
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to summarize systematically and understand the characteristics of the production process of whole garments in order to develop knitwear using a real whole garment machine and propose this as a development case for high value added knitwear design. Concerning research methods, the study looked at existing research into whole garment knitwear and relevant data, data on websites, and the whole garment knitting machine made by Shima Seiki, a Japanese company, which has been the most commonly used machine in Korea. Also the study collected program data concerning a knitting machine and knitting by participating in the production process of whole garment knitwear, and the production line was filmed directly. In addition, the study conducted research into the development of knitwear design using the SWG-X 12 gauge. The conclusions obtained from the production process of whole garments and product development include the following. First, whole garment knitwear is appropriate for expressing a sophisticated look that makes the body appear to be in one form through natural connection without any seam allowance. Second, it is very suitable for response production since it does not go through the pattern, cutting, and processing stages. Furthermore, because of the consistent management of the entire process by computer control, it may be the highest cutting-edge fashion area in which planning and proposal style industry may be realizable. Third, it is easy to approach design through a programming process, and it is possible to develop diverse patterns; thereby, it is appropriate for producing high value added knitwear products.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.43-52
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to present the plan for activation and rationalization of production of ladies' jacket and provide basic materials for improvement of the development of technologies in relation to the productivity improvement of ladies' jacket and the achievement of high quality product. For this purpose, this study attempted to investigate the present situation of jacket manufacturing process. The data is related with local ladies' jacket manufacturing companies in Seoul snd Kyonggi area. The results of this study are as follows. 1. 87.8% of the business firms responded that they acquired the productive process of jacket based on their own knowhow and 80.5% was aware of the need for the analysis of each process. The highest proportion of the business firms(65.9%) pointed out that the advantage of process analysis was the alleviation of the production time. 2. The jacket manufacturing process was made up of 4 stages such as the process of frontal/rear plate $\rightarrow$ the process of accessories $\rightarrow$ the process of completion $\rightarrow$ the process of finishing in a broad sense but composed of a total of 19 stages in detail. 3. Attachment of the sleeves(73.2), attachment of the collar(41.5%) and the formation of the overall silhouette(22.0%) were raised as the challenge in manufacturing ladies' jacket. 4. Most of the sewing business firms made use of the method of completing the collar and then stitching the outer material and the inner collar, and the line of the bodice and the outer collar as the method of stitching the tailored collar. and many of them used the method of completing the collar and then inserting it between the line of the bodice and the outer material and stitching it as the method of stitching the stand collar. They had a preference for the method of completing the sleeve and connecting it to the bodice as the method of stitching the sleeve. and used the method of treating the margin to seam of semi-lined and unlined jacket by treating it with the bias tape.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제34권4호
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• pp.249-263
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• 1996

According to the design method for constructing the G gori(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic G gori, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the tow sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since th-ere in no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial requlation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the G gori's girth, length and neck width is fixed at 70 degrees. 2) The radius of the cone is B/2. 3) The calculation formula is B/4 + 1.5cm 4) The armhole formula is B/4, the same as in the basic method. 5) The width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction(width of collar + width of collar strip)to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius (B/2), that is an arc that exceeds the length of the G gori's midsection; the component ratio of this length to the collar junction is accordingly 13:5. 8) The curve frame length of the back midsection is an arc exceeding B/4(the armhole line). 9) The ratio of the sleeve opening calculation formula to the armhole length is 8:5, forming an arc with the midsection length.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.769-781
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• 1997

The purpose of this research is to show how to use the patternist's CAD system in order to make design patterns efficiantly. Using the PAD System Technologies company's PAD System Module, which is very officiant in designing patterns, the basic pattern or design pattern can be designed and applyed to the Sample Module, thus, then it could manufacture, retouch or choose a model, making it posible to go to the next level which is seam patterns for industrial use. By understanding the change of the design that is chosen through the design pattern making and Sample Module process', this study is presentated a plan on how to utilize the patternist's working adaption ability by the CAD system, and also considered the problems in using it. Ability of Design Confrontation of CAD System: 1) The result of an operation can be saved and retouched. On a saved list the patterns can be chosen and changed, thus, making it posible to complete a design very quickly. 2) When sewing every designed pattern in Sample Module, the model can be operated merely by selecting each sewing position, thus creating the same effect of a designer's muslin sample process in a much lesser time. Point at issue in the utilization CAD system: 1) When combining two darts into one place the amounts of darts that are already these have to be erasers, and then, the two darts points are moved that place, thus, containing them, which is very conplicated. 2) When making a gathering, because system can only be recognized in a opend line, the pattern should be separated in order to put a gathering inside a pattern. 3) In order to readjust the amounte of dart. The dart is erased first and then made new dart again. 4) When making tucks in a Sample Module, the form that gets narrow towards the pivot point can not be recognized so the sewing lines of the tucks is adjusted into parallel lines. 5) The Sample Module 3D operation can not attach the bodice to the shirts, instead they become fixed into each other. In the case of shoulder line tucks the amounts of pleats can not be expanded draperary naturally, thus, making it hard to showing the silhouette accurately. If these problems are solved, especially if the silhouette of a model can be created to have natural drapery in the 3D Module, models can be shown on the screen in possible to compare and examine even a change of a detail, by designing this 3D Module Production sample process will be more effective, thus, making the CAD system more useful in sewing design process.