• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.418-424
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to reveal the effects of the seam type on the fabric drape to provide the basic knowledge for proper seam type according to the design of sewing products. Seven kinds of specimens were constructed with seam (no seam, welt seam with over-edged finish, welt seam with bias bound finish, plain seam with over-edged finish, plain seam with bias bound finish, french seam, and flat fell seam) in wrap direction of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18 cm diameter supporting disks, and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Significant differences were found in drape coefficient by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed higher drape coefficients compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. Node numbers in the drape profiles showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens, however, no significant differences were observed in node numbers by the seam types. Significant differences were found in the length of the seamed part by the seam types. The specimens with french seam and flat fell seam showed longer length of the seamed part compared to those with welt seam and plain seam. The ratio of the maximum length in the seam direction to the maximum length perpendicular to the seam direction showed significant differences by the seam types.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.453-459
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to provide the basic knowledge to determine the proper seam finish according to the design of sewing products. Four seam finishes(no seam finishes, over-edged seam finishes, turned-and-stitched seam finishes, and bias-bound seam finishes) were constructed with seams in warp, weft and bias directions of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18cm diameter supporting disks and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Drape coefficients of the fabrics increased with seam formation and varied by the seam finishes, however no significant differences in drape coefficients by the seam finishes were observed on the heavier fabric. Node numbers of heavier fabric were more deeply affected by the seam finishes than those of lighter fabric. The specimens with turned-and-stitched seam finishes and bias-bound seam finishes showed significantly smaller node numbers compared to the specimens with no seam finishes and over-edged seam finishes on heavier fabric. The length of the seamed part showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens and negative correlation with the number of nodes in each seam direction. The maximum length of all draped specimens was found in the same direction as the seam direction. In the case of the lighter fabric, the seam and the seam finish had a great influence on the shape of the draped profile.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.163-171
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• 1996

As the current stage of the fashion begins to follow the styles of the past the study on he past costume is getting more importance and as the methodology of the study the accurately ap-proached study through the rehabilitation of the past costume is more needed than the simple re-arrangement of the historical documents. By this methodology this study can be positioned as a re-creation activity. The results of the study are as follows. 1) Style: The S-line silhouette remains be-cause of the straight silhouette or the blossom style bodice. This dress has various types of sil-houette but generally it forms one silhouette and is one-piece. 2) color and Material: The material varies hile the color is divided as the main color of ivory and the stress color of brown. This shows not only that the material has been varied but also that they tried to reduce the monotony. 3) Pattern and Sewing: The simple external figure and the previous stage typically shows the movement to the simplicity of the contemporary and the num-ber of patterens is plenty and the sewing method is also complex. 4) Detail. To overcome the simplicity of the style and to show the characteristics of the afternoon dress the skunk fur the net the sash, and the bow are used. 5) Structural Characteristics: The front open-ing the back opening and the side opening coexists in one-pieced dress and this forms unique structure and complex fastening device. The ribbon tape and casing not only finish the seam but also fix the shape of the dress. Synthetically the 1913-14 afternoon dress has the characteristics of transitional stage in which the characteristics of the costume of 1910s and the remnants of the characteristics of the pre-vious costume style and shows the character-istics of afternoon dress well in terms of the ma-terial the structure and the detail.