• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.1-7
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• 2008

Three kinds of 135D/108F ITY were produced from raw yam 85D/72F + SDY 50D/36F with. interlacing pressure $1.5kg/cm^2$, $2.5kg/cm^2$, $3.5kg/cm^2$ respectively. 72 kinds of sized yams were manufactured from three ITYs by altering sizing speed, sizing temperature and sizing tension. The mechanical characteristics of 72 kinds of plain fabrics which were woven using the sized yam as a warp were analyzed after scouring. The initial modulus of scoured fabric responded sensitively to the sizing speed in high tension. The WT of scoured fabric recorded the. highest1n the conditions of sizing tension 30g, and air pressure $2.5kg/cm^2$ in interlacing treatment. When sizing temperature was high, the WT value appeared low, but when sizing speed was high, the WT value was much affected by air pressure in interlacing raw yam. The MIU value of fabric according to sizing tension variations increased up to sizing tension 40g, but decreased above it. The bulk density decreased up to sizing tension 30-40g, but increased above it. In addition, the bulk density decreased as sizing temperature increased.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.35-46
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• 1989

Experiments described in which cotton fabrics at different stages of chemical processing were abraded to different extents on a Stoll Abrasion Tester with three different abradants, namely, a worsted fabric, flax fabric and silicon carbide paper. The four different plain-weave cotton fabrics selected were 1) desized, 2) scoured and bleached, 3) mercerized, 4) resin-treated. The surface abrasive damages of treated fabrics were observed by SAM, and load-elongation percent retentions of abraded samples were measured by Instrong Tester. The result were as follows: 1. The maximum percent retention of load-elongation with three different abradants was exhibited by the scoured and bleached fabrics and the minimum by the resin finished fabric. 2. The electron micrographs of four different cotton fabrics abraded by flax, worsted fabric abradants for 900 rubs showed a large number of criss-crossing stray fibers in fabric structure. It may be the molecular adhesion for frictional resistance to be explained. 3. The electron micrographs of four different cotton fabrics abraded by silicone carbide abradants showed the form of busing or mashing fibers in fabric structure. The above might be on the basis of the ploughing theory.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.1-5
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• 2007

The advantage of enzyme scouring over alkali scouring is that the enzymatic process can be carried in a neutral pH, resulting in less damage on the fibers and a drastic reduction of wastewater. Since the pH of scouring bath is neutral, dyeing can be carried in the same bath. Four different types of scouring and dyeing in a single-bath were performed in this work: continuous scouring and dyeing in one-bath I and II, simultaneous scouring and dyeing in one-bath I and II. The difference between process I and II is the existence of an after-treatment process in the scouring. Dyeing was performed with three major colors(red, blue, yellow) and black to investigate the dye-ability. The absorbency of scoured and dyed fabrics was measured using gravimetric absorbency testing system. The fabric weight loss was measured after the treatment. Although the color depth for the three major colored fabrics treated in a single-bath was lower than the fabric scoured and dyed separately, the fabrics dyed with black did not show much difference. In addition, the absorbency of fabric treated in a single-bath was higher than the fabric treated separately.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2008.10a
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• pp.47-48
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• 2008

New scouring agent which was stable up to 50% NaOH 350g/l has been developed for simultaneous CPB/silket treatment of N/C union fabric. The physical and dyeing properties of N/C union fabric treated with new scouring agent were measured. Fabric scoured and Mercerized by one bath CPB/silket process showed almost the same degree of Mercerization and K/S value with two bath process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.877-884
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• 2005

The importance and usefulness of a subjective evaluation of the sensorial properties of scoured silk fabrics is discussed. Silk fabric was treated at 12 different scouring rates and the scoured fabrics were used as specimens. Using paired comparisons, three trained subjects, evaluated seven subjective sensorial properties; softness, elasticity, drape, stiffness, crispness, and luster. A quad experimental design was adopted as an effective and reliable evaluation method. Results showed that some properties such as drape, luster were easily discriminated depending on the scouring rates whereas the smoothness was not easily discriminated. As the scouring rate increased, it was hard to discriminated the softness, drape, and stiffness, which indicates there is an optimum scouring rates to have a certain sensorial properties. It was suggested that these results should be applied to the manufacturing process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.5 s.153
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• pp.772-778
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• 2006

Silk organza can make the silhouette of clothes bulky and rich, owing to its stiffness. And silk organza in the gum has better dyeability so can be dyed more bright and deeper color than scoured silk because silk organza has sericin gum that has better dyeability than fibroin. So, silk organza came into the most broad use as the material for Hanbok, especially in summer. But the silk organza has poor color fastness. Sericin is removed from organza when silk organza go through scouring. The purpose of this research is to find out the optimum conditions that the scoured silk fabrics can get stiffness by persimmon juice treatment. For experiments, non scoured, partially scoured and fully scoured silk fabrics were prepared by alkali treatments. Then 3 kinds of silk fabrics were treated with the concentration of 1, 5, 10, 50 and 100% of persimmon Juice. The change of fiber surface of the various silk fabrics were observed By SEM. The hand values of those fabric samples also were measured hand values by Kawabata Evaluation System and stiffness by Cantilaver method. By scouring, the silk organza got more flexibility and less cohesiveness between their fibers. And it can be a little more bulky by removing gum. Namely, silk organza lost its unique stiff and crisp handle. By the persimmon juice treatment, tannin component could be coated on the fiber surface. so that the stiffness of the fabrics were improved.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.68-75
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• 2000

In this study, polyester DTY faille(yoryu) and N/NP microfiber fabrics were pretreated (desizing, scouring and shrinking) by Continuous Scouring and Shringking Equipment with rota-drum and conveyor type in which types were different with retaining method. The results were as follows. The shrinkage ratio of wp/wf direction of DTY fabrics scoured by conveyor type was 1.5/23% higher than those by rota-drum type at $97^\circ{C}$ with 10min. treatment. In this case, The shrinkage ratio of wp/wf direction by those types was about 15/27%, respectively. The shrinkage ratio of wp/wf direction of N/NP microfiber fabrics scoured by conveyor type was 1.5/23% higher than that by rota-drum type at $97^\circ{C}$ with 10min. treatment. The size add-on of DTY fabrics scoured at $97^\circ{C}$ with 10min. treatment by conveyor type and by rota-drum type were 0.15% and 0.42%, respectively. The size add-on of DTY fabric treated by rota-drum type decreased until 9min. of treated time, but increased after 9min. The size add-on of N/NP microfiber fabrics treated by conveyor type was decreased by increasing temperature and treated time, while the size add-on of that treated by rota-drum type was decreased until 6min. treated time and increased after 6min. The size add-on of N/NP microfiber fabrics treated by conveyor type at $97^\circ{C}$ for 10min. was 0.3% lower than that by rota-drum type.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.14-19
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• 2005

Study on the use of enzymes for textile wet processing has been very active. The exploratory research conducted herein is related to the bioscouring process for cotton fabric. The optimum concentration of alkaline pectinase(BioPrep) was in the range of 0.05～0.2 g/l, the proper treatment time was 30～60 minutes, the appropriate treatment temperature was $60^{\circ}C$ for both the batch method and the padding method. The simultaneous desizing/bioscouring by padding method did not give water absorbency as good as the bioscouring after desizing. Color of fabrics which were bioscoured and dyed with direct dyes and a reactive dye was just a little darker than that of NaOH scoured one. K/S and Lab values of the bioscoured fabrics, regardless of the degree of water absorbency, were quite similar to each other.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.283-289
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• 2014

This study describes the feasibility and optimization of reactive dyeing on bio treated cotton knitted fabrics. For this, cotton knitted fabrics distinctly with two different enzymes, alkaline Pectinases(Scourzyme $L^{(R)}$) and Pectate lyases(Bactosol Co. ip $liquor^{(R)}$). In this way by increasing the concentration and processing temperature, the access of enzymes towards the fatty and waxy substrate was found to be accelerated. To achieve higher absorbency and whiteness index, a series of experiments was carried out to assure that Pectate lyases enzymes possesses high access towards the fats and waxes at high temperature. To this end, cotton knitted fabrics was dyed without oxidative bleaching step. The Pectate lyases scoured and dyed fabrics showed less color difference when 2% dye shade is used. The fabrics pre-scoured with Pectate lyases showed good the light and washing fastness properties, compared to the conventional and Pectinases dyed fabrics. However pectinases enzymes showed lower activity at high temperature, caused poor wettability and whiteness index of fabrics. The improvement of the accessibility of enzyme to the pectin at higher temperature Pectate lyases treatment before dyeing was found to be useful for subsequent pectin degradation in cotton knitted fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.220-228
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• 2010

This study examines the scouring effect of pectinase on ramie fabric and influence of sodium sulfate as an activator for pectinase. The scouring effects were measured by the weight loss and pectin contents. SEM, weight loss, stiffness, moisture regain and dye ability of ramie fabric teated with pectinase/sodium sulfate were also measured. When ramie fabrics were desized with $\alpha$-amylase, the optimum conditions were pH 6.5 at $60^{\circ}C$ for 80 min with 1%(o.w.f) $\alpha$-amylase concentration. When ramie fabrics were scoured with pectinase, the optimum conditions were pH 8.5 at $55^{\circ}C$ for 30 min with 10%(o.w.f) pectinase concentration. Addition of sodium sulfate improved enzyme activity significantly, which increased proportionally with increasing sodium sulfate concentration. When 50 g/l of sodium sulfate was added, the surface became cleaner compared to the enzyme treatment without salt: weight and tensile loss, moisture regain and dyeability of the treated fabrics increased, while pectin contents and stiffness decreased. Therfore, sodium sulfate was effective activator for the pectinase treatment of flax fiber.