• Title/Summary/Keyword: satin

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Characteristics of the Excavated Fabrics from Kim Yeoon's Tomb(1596-1665) (김여온(1596-1665)묘 출토직물에 관한 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.44 no.1 s.215
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    • pp.139-150
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    • 2006
  • Eighty-four fabrics, all weaved from silk, were excavated from Kim Yeoon's tomb. They comprised 51 pieces of silk tabby, 13 of satin damask, 17 of twill, and 2 of complex gauze, 1 of damask on tabby. The fabrics featured high quality of satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 3-end complex gauze. The names of the fabrics used in this article are based on literature sources and include silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby(紬), filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), and twill(綾).

Characteristics of Textiles Found in the Pagoda at Naksan Temple (낙산사 공중 사리탑 복장직물의 조형특성 및 시기감정)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.6
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    • pp.29-40
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    • 2009
  • On April 28th of 2006, a set of Buddha's reliquary was excavated from the pagoda in n Nacsan Temple. According to the record, the relics were put in the pagoda in the 18th year of King SookJong in the Chosun Dynasty (1692). The present paper examines ten pieces of wrapping clothes covering reliquary found in the pagoda. They are especially precious data in the history of textiles because they were blocked off from outside and was preserved in good condition with vivid colors still remaining after more than 300 years. Of the ten pieces of wrapping cloth, five were double-layered and the other five were single-layered. They include 15 pieces of silk fabric but, excluding repeated use of the same silk fabric, the total of 11 pieces of silk fabric were examined. All 11 kinds of silk fabric were patterned, 9 of which were Satin and the other 2 were Twill. Of the 9 Satin pieces, 8 pieces were 5-end satin which had the ground of 5-end warp satin with the figure of 5-end weft satin. The remaining 1 Satin piece were more splendid with prominent figures by using warp and weft of different colors. The 2 Twill pieces used twill weave-the ground was 3-end warp twill and the figures were 5-end weft twill. Both of the Twill pieces were weaved with character patterns, partly using wrapped gold thread as supplementary weft. The patterns of 11 pieces of silk fabric include flower, dragon/phoenix, cloud, and geometric patterns. Five were flower patterns, three were dragon/phoenix patterns, two were geometric pattern, and one was cloud pattern. In addition, various treasure patterns, character patterns were utilized as supplementary patterns. The flower and phoenix patterns reflect characteristics of the textiles of the 17th century whereas check pattern and cloud pattern were very unique.

The empirical Analysis of compound woven silk fabrics of Cho-Sun Dynasty - focusing of 26 pieces of the fabrics which are in the Tong-Do Temple′s collection - (조선시대 중조직 견직물에 대한 실증적 고찰 -통도사 소장직물 26점을 중심으로-)

  • 장현주;권영숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.8
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    • pp.5-16
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    • 2000
  • This study attempts to examine compound weave among silk fabrics of Cho-Sun Dynasty. These silk fabrics have colorful patterns. They can be classified into two types by their texture structure one is called polychrome woven silk of which structure is plain or twill fabric : another is called satan damask of which structure is stain fabric. Their texture structure consist of warp and weft. In addition. there are other types of warp and weft for pattern structure ; various twill structures were used for patterns. A variety of colorful threads, including gold and silver ones. are used fur patterns in them. The brocaded-type fabric was primarily developed during Won Era of China. It was most developed in Ko-Rye Kingdom. During that era flat strip was used the most but its length was usually not long enough to finish one pattern. However, wrapped thread was increasingly used during the middle and later period of Cho-Sun Dynasty due to the development of weaving technology for gold thread. The brocaded-type fabric was produced in Korea and it was also Imported from China according to some record. There are some domestic empirical documents that show the names of imported Satin Samite, Brocaded satin and these are good evidence to prove the nationwide use of the cloth during Cho-Sun Dynasty. The density ratio of warp and weft is almost same except Samite in the third and Satin with flower motif in the second period is most density among them. C·F of Brocaded satin with Mang motif in the third period values the highest price. Brocaded satin, used with both gold and silver threads, is thickest.

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Thermal Conductivity of Carbon-Phenolic 8-Harness Satin Weave Composite (탄소/페놀릭 8-매 주자직 복합재료의 열전도도)

  • Woo, Kyeong-Sik;Goo, Nam-Seo
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Aeronautical & Space Sciences
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    • v.31 no.9
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    • pp.18-25
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    • 2003
  • In this paper, thermal conductivities of carbon-phenolic 8-harness satin weave composite, ACP302, were measured and predicted. In the analysis, the satin weave unit cell was identified and modeled discretely by 3-dimensional finite elements, considering the interlaced fiber tow architecture microscopically. At the unit cell boundary, the corresponding periodic boundary conditions were applied. The results were analyzed to investigate the effect of microstructural parameters such as stacking phase shifts, waviness ratio, and fiber volume fraction. The conductivities were also obtained by experiments and compared with the numerical results.

Characteristics of the Excavated Silk Fabrics of Chosun Period (조선시대 출토 견직물의 특성)

  • 장현주
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.10 no.5
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    • pp.532-541
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    • 2002
  • An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosun period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into excavated and temple fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Excavated fabrics were most accounted for by tabby fabric, followed by satin, twill, leno and gauze and union cloth. Tabby fabric was most used throughout the Chosun period, followed by satin. This is supported by many literary records. Concerning excavated dresses of the same period, tabby fabric, especially Ju was the main material, followed by satin. Leno and gauze fabric was much less used than in the Koryo period. Among excavated dresses surveyed in this study, none was made of compound woven fabrics such as Brocade. Other excavation reports said that Brocade had been used for a cuff of coat in few cases, if any. Tabby fabric was widely used for both the right side and lining while twill and satin fabrics were mainly adapted to weave the right side because they had luster higher than the former, smooth sense of touching and unique designs.

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A Comparative Study on the Subjective Fabric Hand According to Gender for Winter Sleepwear Fabrics

  • Kweon, Soo-Ae;Lee, Eun-Kyung;Park, Jong-Myoung
    • Fibers and Polymers
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.6-11
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the subjective fabric hand of sleepwear fabrics, and to assist in developing sleepwear fabrics that offer maximum comfort in wearing sensation. In general, the respondents noted that sleepwear fabrics made with polyester had better tactile sensation than those made with cotton, while satin weave fabrics felt better than plain weave fabrics. As regards the difference in fabric hand according to gender, female students responded with more receptiveness and sensitivity than male students in the category of woven fabric evaluation. As regards the same textile materials, the evaluations of female students and male students differed in fabric hand descriptors, particularly for the evaluation on cotton fabrics. Male students responded that both plain weave fabrics and satin weave fabrics were stiff while female students replied that satin weave fabrics had better tactile sensation.

A Study on the Excavated Clothes of Lady Shim Cheongsong in Jecheon (제천출토 청송심씨(1753~1810) 출토유물)

  • Chang, In-Woo;Park, Bong-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.2
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    • pp.150-162
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    • 2014
  • This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.

Prediction of Thermal Conductivity of Spun Carbon/Phenolic Composites (스펀 탄소/페놀 복합재의 열전도도 예측)

  • 서부호;조영준;강태진;윤재륜
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society For Composite Materials Conference
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    • 2002.10a
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    • pp.48-51
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    • 2002
  • This paper predicted the thermal conductivity of spun carbon/phenolic composites by the thermal resistance method. This method uses the analogy between the diffusion of heat and electrical charge. To verify the theoretical predictions, the thermal conductivity of spun carbon/phenolic composites was examined experimentally. The reported thermal conductivities of graphite/epoxy composite of a eight harness satin laminate was used of the comparison with the prediction values of the model and it was noticed that a good agreement has been found.

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MICROSCOPIC INVESTIGATION OF DRY FABRICS: Picture Frame Test (건직물 복합재료의 미세거동 관찰: 사진틀 실험)

  • 장승환
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society For Composite Materials Conference
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    • 2003.04a
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    • pp.211-214
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    • 2003
  • This paper presents the microscopic observation results from the picture frame test using five-harness satin weave fabric composite. Aligned and misaligned specimens are observed to verify the exact tow deformation pattern such as tow interval and change in tow amplitude. To observe the micro-deformation of the fabric structure, appropriate specimens from picture frame test are sectioned and observed under the microscope. From the observation results, it is found that a picture frame test with a misaligned fibre orientation angle shows large differences in deformation between tensile and compressive tow directions.

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A Study on Tatami Algorithm for Computer Embroidery (컴퓨터 자수용 누비기 알고리즘에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Yang-Sun;Lee, Sung-Oog
    • Proceedings of the Korea Information Processing Society Conference
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    • 2000.04a
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    • pp.719-722
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    • 2000
  • 의류제품에 자수를 놓기 위해서는 자수기와 이를 구동해 주는 자수 프로그램이 반드시 필요하다. 이자수 프로그램은 밑박음질(Running), 박음질(Satin), 누비기(Tatami) 기능을 기반으로 구성되므로 가장 중요한 핵심기능이라고 할 수 있다. 본 논문에서는 베지에르 곡선식을 사용하여 구현한 누비기(Tatami) 알고리즘을 기술한다. 누비기는 범위가 넓어 박음질(Satin)로 처리를 못할 때 사용되며 다양한 무늬를 표현하거나 박음질과는 달리 넓은 범위를 채울 때 사용된다.

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