• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.65-70
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• 2009

The hybrid numerical model is developed by combining BEM that can calculate the wave motion rapidly under the potential theory and CADMAS-SURF that solves Navier-Stokes equations for the free surface variation near the structure, In the hybrid model the calculation of wave motion in a wide field of wave reflection for deep water area is conducted by BEM but for shallow water area by CADMAS-SURF. Especially the hybrid model can calculate random wave motions for long term period more rapidly with almost similar accuracy than the calculation of wave motion which was carried out by CADMAS-SURF only. In this study the coupling model was applied to the calculation of the strong nonlinear wave motion such as wave runup and overtopping at the coastal structure on the mild-slope bottom and the results of numerical model were compared with the Toyosima's experiments of regular wave runup and Goda's design diagram of ramdom wave overtopping, respectively.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1991.07a
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• pp.40-45
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• 1991

항만 건설, 매립, 임해 발전소의 걸선, 호안 축조 및 신공간 개발 등 연안역 개발시 설계 환경요소인 파랑을 정확히 예측함으로써 이러한 사업을 경제적으로 수행 할 수 있다. 특히 이들 구조물은 대부분 쇄파대내에 위치하므로 쇄파후의 파랑변형 및 Runup 등을 파악하여야 한다. 본 연구에서는 조파수조를 이용하여 쇄파후의 파고 및 Runup 등을 관측하여 경험식 및 해석해와 비교하였다.(중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.163-169
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• 1991

Sixty seven regular wave tests were performed in a wave-current flume to investigate proper-ties of waves breaking on irregular slope profiles. In these tests, 1/10, 1/20 beach slopes were made using angles and plywoods. A little differences were found in such properties as breaker depth and height indices. runup for plane slopes comparing with other laboratory experiments. however. for smaller deepwater wave steepness, measured breaker height and depth data values were smaller than other formulas. On wave runup agreement was good between experiments and Hunt formula. however. measured data values were influenced by number of breaking. Significant differences were found in breaker depth index for plane and barred slopes. Wave height decay after breaking was found to be smaller than Dally et al.'s formula (1984).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.155-164
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• 1997

A comprehensive and systematic field monitoring program was initiated since October 1989, in order to investigate the temporal and spatial variation of shoreline position at northern part of Pea Island, North Carolina. Aerial photographs were taken every two months on the shoreline extending from the US Coast Guard Station at the northern end of Pea Island to a point 6 miles to the south. Aerial photographs taken were digitized initially to obtain the shoreline position data. in which a wet-dry line visible on the beach was used to identify the position of shoreline. Since the wet-dry line does not represent the “true" shoreline .position but includes the errors due to the variations of wave run-up heights and tidal elevations at the time the photos taken, it is required to eliminate the tide and wave runup effects from the initially digitized shoreline .position data. Runup heights on the beach and tidal elevations at the time the aerial photographs taken were estimated using tide data collected at the end of the FRF pier and wave data measured from wave-rider gage installed at 4 km offshore, respectively A runup formula by Hunt (1957) was used to compute the run-up heights on the beach from the given deepwater wave conditions. With shoreline position data corrected for .wave runup and tide, both spatial and temporal variations of the shoreline positions for the monitoring shoreline were analyzed by examining local differences in shoreline movement and their time dependent variability. Six years data of one-mile-average shoreline indicated that there was an apparent seasonal variation of shoreline, that is, progradation of shoreline at summer (August) and recession at winter (February) at Pea Island. which was unclear with the uncorrected shoreline position data. Determination of shoreline position from aerial photograph, without regard to the effects of wave runup and tide, can lead to mis-interpretation for the temporal and spatial variation of shoreline changes.nges.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2009.10a
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• pp.176-179
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• 2009

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1992.08a
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• pp.21-21
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• 1992

The paper is devoted to one of the branches tsunami. wave hydrodynamics. The theory of propagation, transformation and runup of tsunami waves taking into account the nonlinearity and the dispersion is exposed. The available data on real tsunamis are reviewed.(omitted)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.45-53
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• 1998

Video monitoring techniques and their applications to beaches were reviewed. The recent development of video hardware and image process made it possible to measure shoreline changes, sandbar morphology, wave runup, swash motion, and so on using video camaras. Especially, quantitative information from the video image can be obtained by digitization of image, rectification procedure, and image process. Using video monitoring techniques, measurements can be made at much lower cost and for long periods of time compared to the traditional measurement techniques, although these techniques are of lower accuracy and provide only indirect information on the land and water surface.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.439-459
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• 2022

This paper describes experimental studies of impact pressure generated by breaking regular waves in shallow water on a vertical cylinder. Experimental work was carried out in a shallow water flume using a 1:30 - scale model of a vertical rigid circular hollow cylinder with a diameter 0.2 m. This represents a monopile for shallow water offshore wind turbines, subjected to depth induced breaking regular waves of frequencies of 0.8 Hz. The experimental setup included a 1 in 10 sloping bed followed by horizontal bed with a constant 0.8 m water depth. To determine the breaking characteristics, plunging breaking waves were generated. Free surface elevations were recorded at different locations between the wave paddle to the cylinder. Wave impact pressures on the cylinder at a number of elevations along its height were measured under breaking regular waves. The depth-induced wave breaking characteristics, impact pressures, and wave run-up during impact for various cylinder locations are presented and discussed.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.20 no.6 s.73
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• pp.35-40
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• 2006

In recent years, there's been strong demand for seawalls that havea gentle slope and permeability that serveswater affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates on the coastal structures. A numerical model based on the weak nonlinear dispersive Boussinesq equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable layer, is developed. The applicability of this numerical model is examined through Deguchi and Moriwaki's hydraulic model test on the permeable slopes. From this study, it is found that the proposed numerical model can predict wave transformation and run-up on the gentle slope with a permeable layer, but can't show accurate results for slopes steeper than about 1:10.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2006.05a
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• pp.574-578
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• 2006

Tidal amplification by construction of the sea-dike and sea-walls had been detected not only near Mokpo Harbor but also at Chungkye Bay which is connected with Mokpo Harbor by a narrow channel. This brings about increase of tidal flat area and in particular increase of surge-wave combined runup during storms. The purpose of this study is to examine an efficient operational model that can be used by civil defense agencies for real-time prediction and fast warnings on wind waves and storm surges. Instead of using commercialized wave models such as WAM, SWAN, the wind waves are simulated by using a new concept of wavelength modulation to enhance broader application of the hyperbolic wave model of the mild-slope equation type. Furthermore, The predicting system is composed of easy and economical tools for inputting depth data of complex bathymetry and enormous tidal flats such as Mokpo coastal zone. The method is applied to Chungkye Bay, and possible inundation features at Mokpo Harbor are analyzed.