• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.297-312
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• 1994

Today though the word ginyoe(gisaeng) was remained as a historic relic but they were firmly existed about 40 years ago and ginyoe's number was about three million in Chosun it's almost near 0.5% of the total population of Chosun. To think that point the ginyoe's so-ciety was considered a special one in the his-tory of Korean woman. The ginyoe as a special social class were specialize in technical art such as dancing and prostitute. Although they were low class they were luxurious slaves whoses clothing was almost equal to that of royal family. They were the leaders of fashion in woman clothing that's because their role was entertainer, This study can be summarized as follows. First ginyoe and public woman's clothing codes were nearly same in koryo but tatally separated in chosun. I could find that was came from those day's moral sprit. Second ginyoe's clothing was not only have luxuriance like royal family but also have unique clothing codes for them. Though they are low class ginyoe could use upper class's clothing codes. But upper class women could'nt use ginyoe's clothing codes are vary various and have their own clothing codes. Third I analyzed ginyoe's clothing codes and then derived 6 ginyoe's clothing messages. They were symbol of wealth symbol of power symbol of occupational function symbol of sexual attraction symbol of social position symbol of freedom.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.61-74
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• 2005

Wonsam, a type of korean women's gown in Choseon Dynasty, was used as a small ceremonial costume for queens, crown princesses and princesses and as a grand ceremonial costume for royal concubines and wives of high rank officials. It was also worn as a wedding dress for commoners. In the families of illustrious officials, it was also used as burial accessories or garments for the dead. In this context, Wonsam is a formal dress for the people's most important four ceremonies of coming-of-age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor worship. It is worth emphasizing the costume since it was widely and importantly used by all ranks of women, from royal families to commoners. Through the Wonsam of An-dong Kim Clan's, we can see what the society was like at the end of Choseon Dynasty. First, a status system that strictly divided costumes for each class, was, in many parts, broken down. Second, the highly wrought patterns and texture of fabrics of the Wonsam reveal that it was granted from Court, or, if woven by the Kim family, it is considered to be produced by the Court's craftsman or through technical transfer, considering that the weaving skills used are as good as those in Courts. Third, regarding the precise needlework that is uncomparable to textiles used by other illustrious officials families, the Wonsam is considered to be granted from Court or, produced through the needlework skills that were handed down from needlewomen in Courts. The Wonsam of An-dong Kim Clan's has noble beauty in it, with outstanding weaving skills, fabrics, needlework and shape. Thus, it is no exaggeration to say that it has those qualities to be the standard costume that inherits the tradition of Korean people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.72-88
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• 2011

This study is about the costume relics that were excavated from M10 of the 6th site, M13 and M14 of the 8th site among all the Runghai(龍海) ancient tomb sites that were known as the royal family's tombs of Balhae, which were built from the late 8th century to the early 9th century. These costume relics were also introduced in the academic journal of Chinese archaeology(考古) 6 in 2009. The summary of the results that focused on finding features of the costume relics and its meaning were as follows: 1. Male and female statues, both of which were excavated from the Runghai ancient tomb sites, had the shape and composition of the government official's costumes such as the Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Gwadae. The female's hairstyle and accessories were quite similar to other costume relics of Balhae. In particular, the male statues wearing the Danryeong and Bokdu were considered as the normal figures of government officials of Balhaeafter the mid 8th century. 2. The female statue wearing the male attire is considered as a maid, and we can confirm that women dressing up like a man was a popular trend in Tang(唐), and this trend was introduced to Balhae. 3. The back flap(垂脚) of Bokdu that the male statue is wearing in M10 of the 6th site, has a shape that has not been found in the ancient relics of both Balhae and Tang. Therefore, it is considered as a unique shape of Bokdu of Balhae. However, it needs to be observed more and discussed in the future. 4. In regards to the Gwadae, the outside of the Gwadae is decorated with jade and has an embossed carving that is gold inside. The Gwadae of the Runghaisites has a unique design and it is distinguished from other ancient relics. 5. The gold trefoil crown and the leather conical hat that were found in M14 of the 8th site can be seen as the basic composition of official's hats in ancient Korea. Also, the motif of the gold trefoil is closely related to Anthemion that is often seen in the relics of the Three Kingdom period. Thus, we can assume according to this important finding that the style of ancient Korea official's hats came from either the king or a royal family of Balhae after the mid 8th century.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.184-203
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• 2020

The Confucian ruling class of the Joseon Dynasty regarded Buddhist rituals as "dangerous festivals." However, these Buddhist ceremonies facilitated transitions between phases of life from birth till death and strengthened communal unity through their joint practice of the rites. Ritual spaces were decorated with various utensils and objects that transformed them into wondrous arenas. Of these ornaments, Buddhist paintings served as the most effective visual medium for educating the common people. As an example, a painting of the Ten Kings of the Underworld (siwangdo) could be hung as a means to illustrate the Buddhist view of the afterlife, embedded in images not only inside a Buddhist temple hall, but in any space where a Buddhist ritual was being held. Demand for Buddhist paintings rose considerably with their use in ritual spaces. Nectar ritual paintings (gamnodo), including scenes of appeasement rites for the souls of the deceased, emphasized depictions of royal family members and their royal relatives. In Chinese paintings of the water and land ceremony (suryukjae), these figures referred to one of several sacred groups who invited deities to a ritual. However, in Korean paintings of a nectar ritual, the iconography symbolized the patronage of the royal court and underlined the historicity and tradition of nationally conducted water and land ceremonies. This royal patronage implied the social and governmental sanction of Buddhist rituals. By including depictions of royal family members and their royal relatives, Joseon Buddhist paintings highlighted this approval. The Joseon ruling class outwardly feared that Buddhist rituals might undermine observance of Confucian proprieties and lead to a corruption of public morals, since monks and laymen, men and women, and people of all ranks mingled within the ritual spaces. The concern of the ruling class was also closely related to the nature of festivals, which involved deviation from the routines of daily life and violation of taboos. Since visual media such as paintings were considered to hold a special power, some members of the ruling class attempted to exploit this power, while others were apprehensive of the risks they entailed. According to Joseon wangjo sillok (The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty), the Joseon royal court burned Buddhist paintings and ordered the arrest of those who created them, while emphasizing their dangers. It further announced that so many citizens were gathering in Buddhist ritual spaces that the capital city was being left vacant. However, this record also paradoxically suggests that Buddhist rituals were widely considered festivals that people should participate in. Buddhist rituals could not be easily suppressed since they performed important religious functions reflecting the phases of the human life cycle, and had no available Confucian replacements. Their festive nature, unifying communities, expanded significantly at the time. The nectar ritual paintings of the late Joseon period realistically delineated nectar rituals and depicted the troops of traveling actors and performers that began to emerge during the seventeenth century. Such Buddhist rituals for consoling souls who encountered an unfortunate death were held annually and evolved into festivals during which the Joseon people relieved their everyday fatigue and refreshed themselves. The process of adopting Buddhist rituals-regarded as "dangerous festivals" due to political suppression of Buddhism in the Confucian nation-as seasonal customs and communal feasts is well reflected in the changes made in Buddhist paintings.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.39-52
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• 2018

The objective of this study was to enhance understanding and appreciation of Pre-Orientalism in costumes and textiles by revealing examples of Oriental influences in Europe from the 16th century to the mid-18th century through in-depth study. The research method used were the presentation and analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; Pre-Orientalism had been influenced by Morocco, Thailand, and Persia as well as Turkey, India, and China. In this study, Pre-Orientalism refers to oriental influence and oriental taste in Western Europe through cultural exchanges from the 16th century to the mid-18th century. The oriental costume was the most popular subspecies of fancy, luxury dress and was a way to show off wealth and intelligence. Textiles were used for decoration and luxury. The Embassy and the court in Versailles and Vienna led to a frenzy of oriental fashion. It appeared that European in the royal family and aristocracy of Europe had been accommodated without an accurate understanding of the Orient. Although in this study, the characteristics, factors, and impacts of Pre-Orientalism have not been clarified, further study can be done. Recognizing a broad perspective on oriental influence in Europe before Orientalism, we can have a balanced view of future Orientalism and global fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.15-30
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• 1990

From now, we've made a study of Korean Clothing about our Royal family's or high birth person's and made little of our plain folk's. Our traditional clothing is plain folk's clothing and that is our fundamental clothing, so plain folk's clothing has an important part in our life. In this point, first we were concerned about the plain folk woman's clothing in the plain folk's clothing and it consists of the way of ethnographic method like listening from the lod about their contant living wear-daily wear. This research covers the time from the end of the Yee-Dynasty to 1950's and the place, each province where the primitive dwellers still live and respondent's age range is about from 60 to 80. In the viwepoint of our climate and construction, women should be over-worn an underwear and they have worn the underwear for the purpose of their heating and the inflating of the skirt. The end of the Yee-Dynasty, high society person wore underwear 7-8 layers thick and also the sow society person wore it 3-4 layers thick. The Plain folk woman clothing's basic system is the skirt and Korean jacket and dari-sok-got, sok-sok-got, pants, dan-sok-got as an underwear, and Korean socks and Korean shoes(straw shoes) are added. This research discusses these clothing by dividing them into each part and enlighten the peculiarity, shape, cloth and how to construct and especially about the difficult-making Korean jacket, we handled the method of rough guess sizing. As the result, we found that each province had a similar peculiarity in the general clothing but they had a different cloth name and a wearing method. Especially, An-dong an Eum-sung, they'd worn their own traditional wear, sal-chang-hojaengiee. We made a good product of rough guess sizing data those have not been known.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.7-26
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• 2012

Nakseonjae in Changdeokgung Palace was established at The King Hunjong's 13rd year (1847), the mid-19th century. It was constructed for own rests of King Hunjong and the residence of Kyungbin (king's concubines), and is showing features of upper-class houses from several points such as rustic architectural types by getting out of authoritative aspects as king's shelter space within the palace, block and floor distribution that separated spaces for men and women, simplicity in structures and styles, and non-colorful painting etc. This study aims at tracing on which architectural types did the upper-class houses within Hanyang (modern Seoul) at late Joseon Dynasty have and what was characteristics of Nakseonjae. The resemblance between Nakseonjae and the upper-class houses was very little differences from scale aspects, and floor plan shapes of Anchae (women's quarters) and Sarangchae (men's quarters) were followed basic common styles. Also, resemblance could be confirmed in the structural styles too. Characteristics of Nakseonjae are showing apparent differences from clearance compositions such as hall configuration etc. Nakseonjae was king's dwelling place, and spaces for house's collateral functions such as kitchen, stable, and warehouse etc together with shrine were unnecessary, and such places were substituted into servants' quarters for assisting the Royal family. In detailed structural styles, column's size was larger 3cm or more than the upper-class houses, and its height was higher to the degree of 30~60cm. Besides, formality as king's shelter space was raised more in decorating aspects, and Nakseonjae was implemented by getting architectural influences from Qing Dynasty of China. This study induced features of Hanyang's upper-class houses at the 19th century by supplementing distribution and space configurations at existing cases of Seoul and Gyeonggi area together with house diagrams having been collected by Gaokdohyung (site and floor plan) of Jangseogak Library, and confirmed resemblances and differences with Nakseonjae, that is, features of Nakseonjae. Through the result, this study judges a fact that architecture of Nakseonjae seemed to be affected from conveniences of upper-class houses within Hanseong, and also architectural styles and distribution types of Nakseonje would give influences to the upper-class houses.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.71
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• pp.71-98
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• 2018

This study is aimed to figure out the way Yoon Hee-sun perceived the real situations of the society under the Japanese ruling and responded to overcome difficulties in the process of anti-Japanese independence movement. Yoon Hee-sun played an important role as a female activist of the righteous army movement in Kangweon-do and Manchuria. She was a daughter-in-law of Yu Hong-seok, wife of Yu Jae-won, and mother of Yu Don-sang. Three generations of her family had taken the lead in anti-Japanese independence movement. The Yus belonged to a school of 'Hwaseo' and devoted their lives to the independent movement based on the thought of 'wijung chuksa sasang', which means 'defending orthodoxy and rejecting heterodoxy'. They desired to go back to the past and recover as it was rather than building a new society. Therefore, their fights against Japan's invasion were not for establishing a modern nation-state but for recovering the royal authority of the existing order. Both her maiden home and her in-laws belonged to a school of 'Hwaseo' and Yoon Hee-sun couldn't go out of the boundary of her family background. Also, the motivation of her participation in the righteous army movement was based on the confucian values such as loyalty to the king, filial piety and fidelity. In particular, she possessed a high level of self-awareness not only as a wife but also as a woman. On the basis of this, she faced up to reality. For the more effective way of revolt against Japan's invasion, she determined to change the perception of women identified only as a wife of somebody. She thought her duty was to enlighten women through 'education'. As a result, manifestoes and songs supporting the righteous army movement were used as a powerful method.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.728-738
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• 2006

As movies and dramas which show traditional clothes and fusion clothes are getting popular these days, lot of people are paying attention to these dress and ornaments. And as for the domestic collections which seem to reflect this trend, various fusion style clothes are getting widely adopted by people. Therefore, this study analyzed and considered the clothes designs when the country started to open itself to other countries, by selecting a movie titled "YMCA baseball team", a movie to ascertain vigorous historical verification, and by conducting the prior study and using the DVD capture program. This study is meaningful in that based on the comparison study on the costumes, it clarifies the degree of costumes(clothes) acceptance at the point of nation's opening to other countries, which is the source of fusion style, and further shed light on the role that the movie costumes will play. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, through the theoretical background it can be known that when the country opened itself to outside world the dress and ornaments of the time was adopted in a top-down way, namely, first adopted by the royal family and the upper class, which could have easy access to the western civilization and institutions, and then the low class later. Second, in the movie titled 'YMCA baseball team' the costumes were designed through the strict and thorough historic verification, and it can be confirmed that various dress and ornaments adopted at the time of nation's opening to the outside world centered around the clothes design for new women. Third, 'YMCA baseball team is evaluated as a movie that reproduces that time well and as a media that provides an effective clue to the dress and ornaments adopted by the public when the country opened itself to the outside world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.140-159
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• 1994

Heraldry, which originated from the culture of knights in the 12th century, came to be drawn on shields, and was inherited as a symbol of the family at the end of the 12th century and developed rapidly through the 13th and 14th century. Afterwards heraldry was in great vogue and used in the shields, clothes of men and women, armors, housings and flags. Therefore the citizen class as well as nobles and knights came to possess heraldry. In particular parti-color and impaled coat were accepted in the clothes, and served the dual purpose of status symbol and ornament in the 13th century. It can be said that the appearance of heraldry on the clothes was typical of the Middle Ages. The origin, generally accepted, was that the crusaders wore the surcots, also known as the cyclases, on the armors to prevent the powerful sun of Syria and dust of deserts, and to prevent the armors from rusting due to moisture. As the surcot was made of white linen or white silk till the beginning of the 13th century, knight's heraldry came to be put on the surcot in order to identify each corps. According as the coat of mail covering all the body was devised, the same heraldry attached on the shield seemed to appear on the clothes of surcot or jupon(afterwards pourpoint) in order to identify the status in the battlefield and tournament. Heraldry, a system of mark in the 12th century, was used as a symbol of authority of the upper class such as the Royal House, nobles and knights, and may have been mysterious instruments in the Milddle Ages. However, in the modern times of the 20th century heraldry has come to be a kind of symbol marks such as badges and banners symbolizing the hallmark of the goods of enterprises, organizations and groups. Heraldry, existing up to now, of the individuals as well as international organizations can be seen as a result of deep-rooted tradition for esthetic appreciation and symbolism for heraldry.