• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.144-152
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• 1999

The purposes of this study are to 1) enforce the necessity of liturgical vestments though clarifying the symbolic meaning, function and ritual importance of Christian liturgical vestments of ministers, 2) figure out the process of changes and characteristics of Christian liturgical vestments of ministers. 3) clarify the liturgical year, symbolic patterns and colors of the liturgical vestments, and 4) study on the status of current liturgical vestments worn by protestant ministers. Based on the catholic and the protestant churches, the scope of the study was decided and the study was conducted along with research on documents and materials. The results are as follows: 1) The liturgical vestments of priests in the Old Testament era had to be worn by stipulated rules and, instructions to perform duties. 2) The liturgical vestment of the catholid church are very various in their kinds and has their unique origins and meanings. 3) The symbolic patterns, color and meanings used by liturgical years of christianity. 4) Design on the liturgical gown and stole of christian ministers.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The Mevelana sect is a spiritual Islamic group experiencing spiritual transaction with their god through a peculiar dancing as a form of religious ritual. The Mevelana, a sect of Islamic Sufism, has their head mosque in Konya in Turkey. Although Mevelana sect is regarded as heretic of Islam, it has exerted considerable influence on the Islamic religion through its peculiar religious worshiping form constituted in dancing and reciting poems. Nowadays, Turkey recognizes the Mevelana dancing as their precious cultural legacy of a long history, exerting public information efforts to give it for wider publicity of Turkey to the world. The Mevelana dress with ornament attired for the ritual dancing performance is regarded to symbolize a spiritual medium, which leads to conciliation with the eternity. The straight lines and curved line characteristic of the Mevelana dancer's trousers, skirt, jacket and such mirrors the image of the Orientals, which is in peculiar contrast with the white and gray colors of the dress with ornament. The impression of the spiritual Mevelana dressing in harmony with the dynamic dancing motion goes beyond mere a religious dressing. It is expressive of a graceful and sophisticated modern formative art, of which the mystic design gives an inspiration to the modern fashion. After Poiret, Islamic factors have emerged in the modern fashion. For instance, a hat with Arabic fashion lapel, a Fez hat of Turkish style, harem pants and such are still popular in the modern fashion. It seems probable that the Iraq War would far more activate the influence of Arabic culture to the modern fashion. By making an analysis on the religious background and formative characteristics of the Mevelana dressing, and by giving design examples on how the Mevelanan dressing has been applied to the modern fashion, this research suggests working out new designs by making a renewed application of their characteristics to the modern fashion.

• 복식
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• 제58권10호
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• pp.52-64
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of Seon that was expressed in the costumes of worldly figures illustrated in Koryo Buddhist paintings. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Out of the above mentioned costumes, except those for Buddha and Bodhisattava, most were actually worn by people of Koryo. Shown in the paintings, the patterns and decorations of Seon are more brilliant and diverse in part of worldly figures than in that of Buddhist figures. For men, Seon was mainly used to robes for Buddhist priest while, for women, costumes for the queen and noble women. Seon was applied to costumes for both men and women, especially Po for ritual purposes. Besides, it was sometimes used to Buddhist priests' robes and women's Banbi and chima. The patterns of Seon were usually single in composition style and scattering in arrangement style. Whether applied to costumes for men or women, Seon usually had complementary colors that were harmonized.

• 복식
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• 제48권
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• pp.151-168
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• 1999

A Study on a Woman's Shrouds in Middle of the 16 Century based on the excavation of the Mrs. Moon's grave in Andong is reported in this paper. As a result of the study the followings are obtained: 1. From the architecture and costume in the Mrs. Moon's grave we can conclude that Confucian funeral rites were already established in Andong region of the 16th century. 2. The articles used for funeral rites can be classified as Bujangpum(副葬品) Chikwanjeku(治棺諸具) Bokongpoom(補空品), and Yumsupku(斂솝具) and costumes for the death wrapping can be especially classified as Yumsupeui(斂섭衣) 3. Total 63 remains were excavated from the Mrs. Moon's grave. Among them 3 Chikwanjeku 19 Daeryumku(大斂具) 12 Soryumku(小斂具) and 29 Supku(섭具) Yumsup procedure was performed with great care Shrouds were the casual cloths and only Sangbok were made for the ritual Several Sooeui were found. 4. Pricedyak characteristics of Yumsup include unusual direction of wrap the meaning of Boolryu and unusual Chingsoo of used clothes. 5. There were 41 costumes in : Coats were Sangbok and Jangot upper cloths were long jacket and short jacket Danjukori Jeoksam and Hansam Each of the trousers and the skirts were two different kinds by the form The pair of Hangjeon socks shoes and a cap found in this grave were also studied.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.83-101
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• 1981

This study is to research and analyse the Musicians' Costumes in Yi dynasty. Each costume for the musicians was, at that time, different in its design and style in accordance with what class the musicians were belonging to and what ceremony they were playing for, and the form and substance of them were changed according to the ages. In the early of Yi dynasty, the musicians wore their costumes imitated from the Song dynasty's. Especially in the 13th year of King Sae-Jong(1431), they divided the costumes into A-ag-Seo Jeon-ag Gwan-bog(雅樂署 典樂冠服) and Jeon-ag-Seo Gwan-bog(典樂署冠服). Meanwhile the musicians had to put on their different kinds of costumes according to the sorts of ceremonies they were playing for since January of the 16th year of king Sae-Jong(1434). It is widely known that confucianism was made a national policy in Yi dynasty. Compared the musicians' costumes for sacrificial rituals, however, with those for every kind of ceremony, one was simpler and shabbier without any strictly established forms than the other. At the same time, the musicians' costumes for ceremonies were, instead, designed in more gorgeous forms; it means that the sacrificial ritual was very lightly dealt at that time. It is very difficult to define, by standard pictures the whole style and form of the musicians' costumes in Yi dynasty in this study. Since we haven't shown any examples of the costumes, this attempt will be keepful.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권2호
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• pp.233-252
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• 2021

The Gwan ceremony (冠禮) is a coming-of-age ceremony that takes place through traditional Gwan (冠: the hat) and clothes in the traditional era. The rite is performed by wearing hats and clothes three consecutive times (三加禮). It was an important rite which meant that underage children were formally recognized as members of society. This study examined costumes of people who participated in various coming-of-age ceremony rites in the Ming dynasty imperial court of China. For the research data, this study mainly used authentic chronicles (正史), codes of law and books on Ming dynasty rituals. This study examined the costumes used in the coming-of-age ceremony for the emperor, Prince Imperial, Emperor's eldest grandson, and emperor's sons. The results of this study were divided into an analysis of the document structure, institutional changes by time, characteristics of costumes, and characteristics of the rite. Of particular note in their ceremony, the emperor is presupposed to be a 'human already full-equipped with virtue', which means that the costume is worn only once. It is a case in which the emperor's absolute identity is revealed through the rite and costume.

• 복식
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• 제66권8호
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• pp.123-137
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• 2016

Sa-ryae-pyeonram [四禮便覽], which was published in the late Joseon Dynasty, was representative reinterpretation book of Ga-ryae [家禮] and it was a widely used and cited in the late Joseon Dynasty. This book contains Confucian values about the ritual of Confucian scholars of Joseon Dynasty. This study is a description of historical investigation and production of men's mourning dress based on Sa-ryae-pyeonram [四禮便覽] the result, of the study shows empirical attitude of Confucian scholasr in the late Joseon Dynasty. Through industrialization, traditional culture has been able to survive through preservation. Wearing the traditional mourning dress is not the only way to embody the traditional values in the modern society. It is will be necessary to study contemporary mourning dress as a reflection of traditional value.

• 복식
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• 제64권2호
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• pp.17-34
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• 2014

This is a theoretical and empirical study on Kasaya, the Buddhist monk's robe, which is one of the traditional Korean costumes that has kept it original form, as well as it being the most symbolic ritual costume in Buddhism. The purpose of the study is to see the different types of Kasaya, and the transitions it has gone through since Mid Joseon Dynasty. The analysis was performed after categorizing Kasaya in the following manner: layers, the way to wear, symbolism in construction, sewing, etc. Having a variety of Ilwolguangcheop(日月光貼) is a feature of Korean Red Kasaya. In the beginning, Its shape was very similar to shape of Hyungbae(胸背), and this was a royal gift and had the same meaning as an official uniform for a Buddhist monk. So designs of the Cheop(貼) could have been transformed from those of Hyungbae with a Buddhist twist. The conclusion of the study is as follows: Double layered Kasaya shows its transition from double layer to single layer. The fastening ornaments have been simplified in all materials from Yeongja(纓子). The latch type and three-paired Yeongja type transformed into hook type and one-paired Yeongja type. Color is the most common feature above all, and it is mainly in red. The form of Korean Kasaya has a significant relation with development of Buddhism. The integration of the Zen sect would have influenced the integration of Kasaya, which shows diversity throughout the period.

• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.130-143
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• 2010

Hanbok industry is not based on a consumer-oriented market system, which is related to poor competitiveness in various areas, such as product planning, marketing, and flow of raw materials. The purpose of this paper is to design and conduct an empirical study on important aspects of consumers. experiences and perspectives about Hanbok, and thereby aims to provide much-needed guidance about ways to promote the Hanbok market. Out of 1065 questionnaires distributed, a total of 1039 was returned with responses and used for analyses. The respondent sample included consumers of various background characteristics in their residential areas, age, gender, education levels, and income levels. Cronbach's alpha and a factor analysis were employed for the reliability and the construct validation of the survey instrument. One-way ANOVA associated with post-hoc comparison tests was used to investigate differences across different demographic subgroups of consumers. The results show that consumers generally view Hanbok as one of the formal dresses, worn one or two times per year for traditional events or ceremonies. Consumers tend to show negative opinions about the pricing, and the inconvenience in cleaning and wearing Hanbok. However, consumers think very highly of the aesthetic values, the gracious styles, and the iconic identity of nationalism of Hanbok. This study suggests that Hanbok for modern consumers should be considered as clothing for a ritual, rather than clothing to reconstruct to be fitted to modern daily lives. Hanbok should be promoted as part of up-scaled and differentiated traditional cultures, as clothing that represents and enhances the traditional elegance and beauty unique to the Korean people.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.52-62
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• 2011

This study is about the history of costumes depicted on the book Goryosa(高麗史) Ye-Ji(禮志). Researches about the costumes of Goryo dynasty are very rare and are mostly based on Goryodogyung(高麗圖經) and Goryosa Yebok-Ji(與服志). However, records about suitable costumes for a special scene of a rite can also be found in Ye-Ji besides Yebok-Ji. Therefore, this study analyzes Ye-Ji and categorizes the results into character and situation. Characters that can be found are king, officials, crown prince, aristocrat, commoner and envoy. Situations that can be found, according to the original text, are Gilrye(吉禮), Hyoongrye(凶禮), Goonrye(軍禮) and Garye(嘉禮). The results of the study are as follows; $\blacktriangleright$ The king had to change clothes in order to suit the situation according to the precise sequence of rituals. Therefore the king had to wear different clothes in the same rite, optionally, depending on the situation. This also applies to the case of officials. $\blacktriangleright$ The crown prince and aristocrats generally wore the same clothes as officials. $\blacktriangleright$ In the important ritual of Garye(嘉禮), many cases can be found where officials wore Jobok(朝服) and hands-on worker wore Gongbok(公服). $\blacktriangleright$ It is remarkable that on the New Year's day, the winter solstice and Sungsoojul(聖壽節; the emperor's birthday) the envoy of Ming Sangbok(常服); whereas the king and the officials of Goryo wore the Myunbok(冕服) or Jobok(朝服).