• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.241-260
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• 1998

1. Both the festival held in Confucian temple to honor Confucius or a religious ceremony in Korean traditional lecture-hall are the sacrificial rituals which is the mark of the respect for prescholars and these rituals has been followed the rules written in the book,'Yaegi' 2. For the Food formal display for the festival in Confusian temple of Chinese Gukjagam, Pebak(clothes), Mohyul(hair and blood), and the ritual food dishes, such as Byun 10, Doo 10, Gang 3 (Deung 1, Hyung 2), Bo 2, Cue 2, Jo 3 (Taeraeu as beef dish 1, Soraeu as sheep and pork dishes 2), Joo(alcohol) 3 were displayed, while in Juhyunhak, Byun 8, Doo 8 were displayed. In Taesangji edited around in 1873 in Korea, for the Confucian shrine Pebak, Mohyul, Byun 10, Doo 10, Deung 3, Hyung 3, Bo 2, Cue 2, Jo 6 (raw 3, cooked 3), Joo 3 were displayed. In pedantry Confucian temple, Pebak, Byun 8, Doo 8, Bo 2, Cue 2, Jo 2 (raw sheep and pork), Joo 3 were displayed while Mohyul was omitted, which this type of display was almost identical through the nationwide survery for the Confucian food display. Some of the Confucian food display, most of the display for Bo and Cue have been changed to Bo 1 and Cue 1, and one fifth of the Confucian display for Byun and Doo also has been changed in the numbers and food varieties. 3. In most of the sacrificial ritual food display in the Korean traditional lecture-hall, Pebak (some not applicable), Byun 4, Doo 4, Bo 1, Cue 1, Jo 1 (raw), Joo 1 were displayed. In these days, the number of the Confucian temple where the sacrificial rituals is not held, has been increased. 4. For the names of food for the Byun and Doo dishes, mostly the old names are used, however, minor changes in materials and cooking method have been found.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.52-62
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• 2011

This study is about the history of costumes depicted on the book Goryosa(高麗史) Ye-Ji(禮志). Researches about the costumes of Goryo dynasty are very rare and are mostly based on Goryodogyung(高麗圖經) and Goryosa Yebok-Ji(與服志). However, records about suitable costumes for a special scene of a rite can also be found in Ye-Ji besides Yebok-Ji. Therefore, this study analyzes Ye-Ji and categorizes the results into character and situation. Characters that can be found are king, officials, crown prince, aristocrat, commoner and envoy. Situations that can be found, according to the original text, are Gilrye(吉禮), Hyoongrye(凶禮), Goonrye(軍禮) and Garye(嘉禮). The results of the study are as follows; $\blacktriangleright$ The king had to change clothes in order to suit the situation according to the precise sequence of rituals. Therefore the king had to wear different clothes in the same rite, optionally, depending on the situation. This also applies to the case of officials. $\blacktriangleright$ The crown prince and aristocrats generally wore the same clothes as officials. $\blacktriangleright$ In the important ritual of Garye(嘉禮), many cases can be found where officials wore Jobok(朝服) and hands-on worker wore Gongbok(公服). $\blacktriangleright$ It is remarkable that on the New Year's day, the winter solstice and Sungsoojul(聖壽節; the emperor's birthday) the envoy of Ming Sangbok(常服); whereas the king and the officials of Goryo wore the Myunbok(冕服) or Jobok(朝服).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.162-175
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• 2014

This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.233-252
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• 2021

The Gwan ceremony (冠禮) is a coming-of-age ceremony that takes place through traditional Gwan (冠: the hat) and clothes in the traditional era. The rite is performed by wearing hats and clothes three consecutive times (三加禮). It was an important rite which meant that underage children were formally recognized as members of society. This study examined costumes of people who participated in various coming-of-age ceremony rites in the Ming dynasty imperial court of China. For the research data, this study mainly used authentic chronicles (正史), codes of law and books on Ming dynasty rituals. This study examined the costumes used in the coming-of-age ceremony for the emperor, Prince Imperial, Emperor's eldest grandson, and emperor's sons. The results of this study were divided into an analysis of the document structure, institutional changes by time, characteristics of costumes, and characteristics of the rite. Of particular note in their ceremony, the emperor is presupposed to be a 'human already full-equipped with virtue', which means that the costume is worn only once. It is a case in which the emperor's absolute identity is revealed through the rite and costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.151-168
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• 1999

A Study on a Woman's Shrouds in Middle of the 16 Century based on the excavation of the Mrs. Moon's grave in Andong is reported in this paper. As a result of the study the followings are obtained: 1. From the architecture and costume in the Mrs. Moon's grave we can conclude that Confucian funeral rites were already established in Andong region of the 16th century. 2. The articles used for funeral rites can be classified as Bujangpum(副葬品) Chikwanjeku(治棺諸具) Bokongpoom(補空品), and Yumsupku(斂솝具) and costumes for the death wrapping can be especially classified as Yumsupeui(斂섭衣) 3. Total 63 remains were excavated from the Mrs. Moon's grave. Among them 3 Chikwanjeku 19 Daeryumku(大斂具) 12 Soryumku(小斂具) and 29 Supku(섭具) Yumsup procedure was performed with great care Shrouds were the casual cloths and only Sangbok were made for the ritual Several Sooeui were found. 4. Pricedyak characteristics of Yumsup include unusual direction of wrap the meaning of Boolryu and unusual Chingsoo of used clothes. 5. There were 41 costumes in : Coats were Sangbok and Jangot upper cloths were long jacket and short jacket Danjukori Jeoksam and Hansam Each of the trousers and the skirts were two different kinds by the form The pair of Hangjeon socks shoes and a cap found in this grave were also studied.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.2 s.24
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• pp.37-55
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• 1987

Pasul (Herein after referred to Korean-styled Pasul) to cover up the secrets, which has originated from Bool-an original mode of clothes is to put around a belt with a kind of towel. With the development of culture, it has been handed down the parts of ornamental and symbolic functions, losted its particular and original one. In general, we cannot exactly show when the Pasul has been used as a ritual dress, but, dare to maintain in this thesis, which has been used in Koguryu era. This thesis is summarized as follows: 1. The Bool, which is the first dress of all has its origin in the prehistory, and gradually has developed to a ceremonial dress with the help of man's intelligence. 2. Korean-styled Pasul has continuously been handed down from generation to generation (to adding up, from Koguryu era to Yi dynasty). Today, the color of the Pasul is known as a pink one, but I, herein, would like to refer that king Kojong in Yi dynasty had on a yellow-colored Pasul. 3. With becoming to be a form of ceremonial dress, the Bool has become to be complicated in style. For example, in the Koguryu era, the style is in the form of 'U,' and in Koryu era, it is the echelon formation tinting a pink color and weaving a mountain and flare shaped designs, and its dimension, the upper is one ja (a ja means a unit of length, 0.33 M), the lower, two ja, its length three ja. The Bool of Yi dynasty tints a pink color, and weaves a seaweeds, rices, axes and shaped designs. The Pasul which King Kojong in Yi dynasty put in, was a yellow-colored one weaving dragons and fire shaped design. 4. The Pasul is a ceremonial dress used a ritual or court dress. The purposes of wearing it are to distinguish the upper from the lower classes, to make them abide by regulations, and to respect courtesy. Accordingly, the Pasul. as the dress for special occassions does make us review the old and learn the new. 5. The reason that Pasul has been handed down are: 1) richness and fecundity. 2) symbol mark to represent classicalism. 3) to symbolize the authority by putting on it, for it is necessary to distinguish the upper from the lower classes along with the class consciousness in society. 6. On the basis of the study, the Pasul transition is to be handed down the function of the ornament and symbol. after losted its original functions, with the development of culture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.56-72
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to provide a philosophical basis for a rational, meaningful and systematic development of contemporary Korean fashion and culture industry. The study will begin by comparing traditional aesthetics of Japan and Korea and their respective influences in contemporary fashion design. Japanese aesthetic consciousness can be understood in terms of decorative beauty and undecorated beauty where traditional Korean aesthetic consciousness consists of aesthetic naturalism, beauty of mysticism and beauty of humor. Japanese aesthetic consciousness is generally inclined toward article fanciness, on the other hand, Korean aesthetic consciousness is inclined toward natural beauty. Both Japan and Korea reflect their traditional aesthetic consciousness in their contemporary fashion design. In Japan's case, traditional patterns have been applied to obi(帶, おび). And aesthetic naturalism can be seen in holes, tears and patches present, as well as rough and coarse texture used, in contemporary fashion design. In case of Korea, aesthetic naturalism can be seen in elegant naturally flowing curves and use of plain colored fabric used in fashion design. Beauty of mysticism can be seen in splendid primary colors from shaman ritual costumes, and fortune-telling hexagram patterns. Beauty of humor can be seen in outrageously exaggerated and distorted fit of clothes. The above comparative analysis, with respect to their formative elements, show that both Korean and Japanese contemporary fashion trends reflect and embody their respective traditional aesthetic consciousness. Japan is creating high-grade fashion design of temporal universality and contemporary appeal. Japan has done so by studying their aesthetic tradition from the point of view of philosophy and utilizing its formative elements. Korea, however, is in the middle of transition: Korea is caught between directly grafting traditional aesthetic designs onto contemporary fashion design and integrating the two according to their common internal spirit.

• Proceedings of the Ginseng society Conference
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.456-466
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• 2002

Wild ginseng production is increasing due to forest recovery for last 30 years. Total number of Symmani (traditional mountain ginseng digger) was 558 in 2001. Provincial distribution of Symmani in 2001 was highest in Kangwon $(32\%),$ next in Choongbook $(21\%)$ and least in Jeonnam $(0.7\%)$ and Kyoungnam $(0.9\%).$ Age distribution of Symmani was $33\%\;for\;fourties,\;32\%$ for fifties and $20\%$ for sixties. There were 8 persons in eighties. Symmanies are still keeping traditional ritual for mountain god serving clothes of colored ribbons and foods. Increased production induced open market system from underground dealing of mountain ginseng. Korea Mountain Ginseng Association established mountain ginseng assessment committee with professional Symmanies in 2001. From September to November in 2001, 987 roots were requested for quality assessment to the committee and 476 roots $(48\%)$ were passed and graded and others were rejected. Highest frequency of rejection was foreign origin. Pass rate was highest $(74\%)$ in Choongnam suggesting best place for quality. Number of collected roots in each province was positively correlated (p=0.05) with number of Symmanies. There are 3 quality groups of mountain ginseng, Heaven (pure natural), Earth (from seeding of wild ginseng) and Man (from seeding or seedling of wild ginseng with slight environmental modification). The relationship between price and age was polynomial in high quality root, Heaven, Earth and seed long head of Man group, and linear in low quality group, seedling long head of Man. The best one in 2001 was 26 g, 124 years old and sold with 109 million won. Quality criteria are age, shape, weight, color and healthy outlook. Fine roots are criteria for health status of roots and taproot is criteria for efficacy and called as medicine barrel. The implication is that ginsenosides have rarely been experienced for efficacy. The quality criteria of cultivated ginseng were originated from those of mountain ginseng. It is unique for mountain ginseng that only fresh one can be on market. Since quality criteria of mountain ginseng must be based on the efficacy experience it is well expected that present criteria might almost be established at the age of Shinnong Materia Medica.

• The Journal of Korean Philosophical History
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• no.52
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• pp.131-155
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• 2017

While the lecture activities in Simwonsa, Ganjae Jeon Wu(1841~1922) has established a "law of lecture activities" which was an ritual between a teacher and pupil, between the couple. Through this way he expected to recover the former ritual, even within their own school. In 1884 he built a "law of Sidong school", meaning to build a large object, elementary scholarship will serve as the rules of conduct, and argued that human nature mainly served to the core in the course of study. Ganjae in Mungyeong area was also discussing studies with Song Byeong-hwa(1852~1916) and received correspondence with scholars in areas related to Mungyeong. They were Kim Jae-kyung(1841~1926) and Park Se-hwa (1834~1910). Ganjae had also some big national events on the sojourn time in Mungyeong. In 1882 there were army incident, in 1884 there were a command of the government that people must pull on western clothes. Ganjae did not follow the command of the government. Someone asked "Can we not follow the command of the government?" Ganjae replied "We have a right to resist to the illegal command of the government. There were also 1884's Gapsin-coup, Ganjae saw that we must defend the country by rejecting foreign power and keeping our rituals. Given the above, the timing that Ganjae lectured in Mungyeong personally was a time that provided a clue to establish his core ideas. Nationally it was a time that must defend the country from foreign nations. Ganjae had faith that for keeping the country we must keep firmly our own rituals.

• Journal of Korean Historical Folklife
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• no.45
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• pp.7-50
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• 2014

This study focuses on the funeral rites for Queen Wongyeong during the early Joseon period as part of a review of the changes in the state funeral system and ceremonial procedures. Conducted by the king in his role as chief mourner, the state funeral for King Taejong's wife Queen Wongyeong that emerged during the 2nd year of King Sejong marked the first example recorded in the sillok (Annals of the Joseon Dynasty) of the three year-mourning rite being applied. In terms of the clothing for the state funeral, the significance of Jolgok (a rite conducted on the 100th day following the day of death) was emphasized, while the existing yeokwolje (period of wearing mourning clothes, one month was equated with one day) was abandoned. The existing temporary office system for state funerals was reorganized into a three-office system consisting of the Binjeon dogam (Office for Chapel of Rest), Gukjang dogam (Office for Funeral Rites), and Salleung dogam (Office for the Establishment of Royal Tombs). Buddhism-related rites greatly decreased and were increasingly regulated. The ceremonial procedures were also modified in accordance with the rites directly conducted by the king during the three-year mourning period. The basic pattern of the ceremonial procedure consisted of kneeling / wailing - salute - kneeling/ wailing, and, based on the wuje (rites to console the deceased), was divided into 'make offerings to the deceased' (奠, jeon) and 'hold a memorial service for the deceased' (祭, je). This reflected the differing perceptions of jeon (奠) and je (祭) following the establishment of auspicious rites (gillye) during the reign of King Taejong. In short, the state funeral for Queen Wongyeong provides materials with which to analyze the establishment of the funeral rites and ceremonial procedures designed based on the actual three-year mourning period observed by the king, study the ritual ceremonies conducted during the ancient period, as well as foster an understanding of ancient systems.