• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.866-886
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern and the meaning of textiles, and decorative techniques of ikat weaving and dyeing in Indonesia. The textile design also analyzes by examining the method of ikat techniques such as warp ikat, weft ikat and double ikat, and by classifying the style of regions. The most common motifs are geometric designs of spirals, meanders, straight lines, triangles, and circles which are influenced by outside world. Although these motifs or symbols have been evident since prehistoric times, their design and meaning have been continually reinterpreted as changes in the ceremonies and rituals. While motifs such as reptiles, birds, and human figures, depicted in spiral, hooked and rhomb configurations, have been identified among the most resilient features of Indonesian textile design, new meanings have been added to these ancient forms, and designs have been transformed and reinterpreted to suit local conceptions. Since textiles are a visual expression of Indcufsian life, textiles place the individual symbolically within social milieu, identifying rank, family, locality and religious affiliations. Textiles represent a link between the human and the spiritual realm, and a vehicle for the display of sacred and secular potency Ikat textiles play to embody special transforming powers and sacred mediating qualities, providing protection and evoking life-enriching forces for individuals or social group.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.493-503
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• 2013

This study analyzes expression methodology and aesthetic meanings in modern hair ornaments that adopt maximalism. Maximalism has appeared in various hair ornaments throughout history. Hair dresses are used for many reasons related to class, social position, religious beliefs, and occupation throughout the Eastern and Western hemispheres. A higher class and social position was often denoted by a fancier and bigger hairdress. In modern society maximalism is expressed in literature, expressionism, maxi-marketing, exaggerative advertisements, and symbolic architecture. Formative expression methodologies in modern hair ornaments that adopt maximalism are transform, overlapping & exaggeration, and mixing & edition. The aesthetic meanings of maximalism in hair ornaments are the reinterpretation of retro ornaments, the exaggeration of internal self-expression, humorous symbolic objects, and the conveyance of a social critical message. The advantages of maximalism help people communicate and co-provide an abundant life. These are expected to create significant and numerous positive impacts in society. In addition, the continued efforts on the investment in hair ornaments that express Maximalism well as a fashion trend shows that further study on the persistence, practicality and recognized design inconvenience in the aesthetic value are needed.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.154-159
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• 2010

Various decorative patterns and sculptures found in antique architectures like palace architecture and temple architecture are not only valuable assets of our culture but have religious meaning at the same time and show aesthetic aspiration and desire of Korean people. In this study, potential application of patterns in textile industry is suggested based on the reconstructed and patternized geometric patterns of window grids, a decorative element in architecture, and stair and stair somaetdol, a architectural element in Buddhist temples, using Photoshop and Illustrator program of Adobe INC AND Tex-pro program of Youngwoo CNI INC. All around the world today, efforts to reinterpret unique and antique architectures and cultural assets in a modern way has been increasing. Decorative patterns displayed in Buddhist temple architectures which are antique Korean architectures have excellent geometric aesthetic value. And the development potential of patternizing these elements into modern designs is high. Therefore, it is thought to be possible to develop high value-added fabric and to develop various fashion items including apparel and interior decoration based on modern reinterpretation of patterns of window grid and decorative elements of stairs and stair somaetol that are part of our antique architectures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.60-72
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• 2008

A midst the tendency in an attempt to rehabilitate the coexistence of values in Oriental and Western cultures, along with centripetal attention through reincarnation of the Oriental culture, the modem fashion trend is also inclusive of such Oriental flavors even in the opposite Western fashion icons with an outlook for futuristic alternative. In this regard the study is to investigate the Oriental Characteristics shown in the contemporary fashion in a more profound and right manner by evaluating its spirituality and formativeness through analytical survey on preliminary literatures, whose key words are as follows; Fist, heterogeneity inclusive of the Oriental comprehensiveness through non-periodic chaos; second, imperfection in pursue of perfection through non-perfection; third, asymmetry caused by polarized historicity together with agility in the Oriental costumes; fourth, simplicity bridging into religious naught, and; fifth, spatial comfortablity shrouded by loose design. As a result, the study demonstrates that Oriental sensitivity implicative at the modem fashion, prior to its formativeness, shed out a clue of the Oriental profound spirits in its fashion style.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.15-25
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• 2008

Today, each country's cultural communications are carried briskly and Japan already showed a new trend of world fashion by accepting its own design with aesthetic sense to western Europe in 1970s and built the new area of Japanese fashion. This special traditional aesthetic sense, formed by social, cultural, geographic and religious conditions, is roughly divided into decorated and undecorated beauty; decorated one means splendidness, coquetry, exaggeration and was represented ornamental modification of nature object in dress pattern as ornamental expression means; undecorated one, based on Zen-thought, means simplicity, purity, ugliness and Japan gave rise to the new beauty by receiving and adapting continental culture to its culture openly and creating and developing its own beauty. This study aims to examine the aesthetic sense shown in Japanese traditional dress and understand how traditional beauty is used and applied to modern fashion and analyze the diversity of Japanese traditional aesthetic sense shown in modern fashion. For material analysis, total 220 were collected of photograph related to formative element existence according to aesthetic sense shown in Japanese traditional fashion design using literature research and visual data. The existences of Japanese image among them were confirmed by clothing and fashion department majors so that 7 pieces of which were selected as final analysis object. Likewise, the result suggests that Japanese traditional aesthetic sense creates global design based on folk element-used identity as well as new beauty by adapting continental culture to its culture openly and producing and developing its own creative beauty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.246-251
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• 1999

Headdress which adorns the head has been used not only as a type of dress but also as a vehicle to express the human's mentality and a tool to convey ideas. This study first examines the type of headdress observed in the world folk costumes and investigates their geographical distribution and aims to examine how the types of headdress are inter-related to the peoples' natural environments, way of life and cultural background such as religion and aesthetic, ethical standards. Headdress used as important elements of many peoples' folk costumes can be categorized into scarf-type, hat-type and adornment-type. Veil-type, the one of scarf-types, was developed in Southwestern Asia and Arabic Africa influenced by natural and religious factors. This type is more simplified in Turkey and Eastern Europe and only covers head and neck in the former and only head in the latter while also being called 'headkerchief-type'. Hat-type is observed in many different parts of the world. Adornment-type has been used to symbolized one's noble social status and authority in societies dominated by shamanistic cultural background; it was also used in Far East out of the motivation to fulfil one's aesthetic desire. Headdress though it was originally made from the idential purpose of wearing, has developed into the various types affected by each people's natural environments, emotion and ways of life.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.481-494
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• 2020

This study examined consumer perceptions and consumer responses of Halal cosmetics and compared them with vegan cosmetics, which is a term similarly used. Twitter API of Python 3.7 was used to collect the keywords '#halalcosmetics' and '#vegancosmetics'. First, the main perception of consumers on Halal cosmetics focused on the original concept, image, expected efficacy, and factors to consider before purchase, religious keywords, labels and packaging for Halal cosmetics. Second, the main consumer perception of vegan cosmetics was the product concept, expected efficacy, factors to consider before purchase, related vegan industry, image, and vegan cosmetic components. Third, the consumer perceptions of Halal cosmetics and vegan cosmetics were similar in multiple ways, and both concepts included the Cruelty-free concept. Fourth, consumer satisfaction factors included cosmetics color, brand's consumer service, efficacy, smell, packaging design, reasonable price, effects, and formulation of cosmetics as well as satisfaction with Halal certification, and satisfaction of Vegan consumers. Consumer dissatisfaction factors included smell, flavor, delay in shipping, dissatisfaction with formulation, discrepancy between actual color and computer screen, concern and distrust about the use of prohibited ingredients for Halal products. This study examined consumer perceptions and reactions to Halal and vegan cosmetics to create basic knowledge for niche markets that are emerging as an ethical beauty consumption trend.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.145-160
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• 2022

This study analyzes the influence of the social and cultural background of Art Nouveau on the costumes, architecture, and crafts in the period drama 'Crimson Peak'. This research method captures images of women's costumes, architecture, and crafts in the 'Crimson Peak' and selects and analyzes those with a clear Art Nouveau influence. Edith's costumes are characterized by the Art Nouveau style that emerged in the 1890s, with an hourglass silhouette, pastel colors, soft materials, and organic curved embellishments. Lucille's costumes show characteristics that were prevalent before the 1890s, using bustles, strong colors, and elaborate ornamentation. The architecture is characterized by gothic vertical lines and organic curves, naturalistic patterns featuring animals and plants, and steel and glass materials. The crafts of 'Crimson Peak' are characterized by flexible shapes with strong, organic curves. These costumes, architecture, and crafts share formal elements including waving, twisting, and organic curves and plant-shaped motifs. The influence of social and cultural background of the age of Art Nouveau expressed in movies on formative arts was examined as impressionism appeared in costumes made of pastel colors, thin and see-through materials, medieval Gothic historicism expressed in structures composed of vertical design and religious relief ornament, exoticism appeared in Chinese vase and Japanese-patterned tea sets, naturalism with an animal·plant motif and phenomenon of active social activities of progressive women through women's clothing that elements of men's costume are introduced. This study will provide data for the production of period dramas set at the end of the 19th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.804-821
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• 2023

This study examines current trends and perceptions of veganism and vegan fashion in Korea, China, and the United States. Using big data tools Textom and Ucinet, we conducted cluster analysis between keywords. Further, frequency analysis using keyword extraction and CONCOR analysis obtained the following results. First, the nations' perceptions of veganism and vegan fashion differ significantly. Korea and the United States generally share a similar understanding of vegan fashion. Second, the industrial structures, such as products and businesses, impacted how Korea perceived veganism. Third, owing to its ongoing sociopolitical tensions, the United States views veganism as an ethical consumption method that ties into activism. In contrast, China views veganism as a healthy diet rather than a lifestyle and associates it with Buddhist vegetarianism. This perception is because of their religious history and culinary culture. Fundamentally, this study is meaningful for using big data to extract keywords related to vegan fashion in Korea, China, and the United States. This study deepens our understanding of vegan fashion by comparing perceptions across nations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 1979

This is a study on angels' costumes in religious paintings, especially as this relates to the questions of concepts and theological symbolism. Angels, as spiritual creatures in Christian thought, play the role of praising God's glory, as messengers of God, the role of guarding Israel and the Church, and protecting or punishing human beings. Sometimes the angels appear in incarnate form. They display no sexual differences and are not able to procreate. The angels' funtional classification being thus; nevertheless, they are pictured in various costumes and appearances according to characteristics of the paintings. The angel Michael appears as a man of dignity when pictured as a guard; the angel Gabriel in the annunciation is often portrayed as a woman of mystical beauty. Under the Renaissance, the mighty cherubim and seraphim at Yahweh's throne are degraded as plump child-angels, or winged child-heads looking alike Eros or Cupid. They have become playful and all too obviously non-heavenly chrubs, accepted features of the Temple decorations. However, cherubim are often depicted as naked or wrapped around with a piece of cloth and accompanied with wind, which symbolizes the Glory of God. The angels, costumes without seam are hung over or wrapped around the body, and when sewn they are simple and ample enough that they fall in a great many folds. However, by the 14C. angels are mostly dressed in costumes common to all Europe, and after that angels gradually appear in folk costumes; for example Italian, Flemish, etc. Dalmatic, the typical costume of Byzantine often shows up as angels' dresses even after the period. Originally the dalmatic was the Roman tunic to which Eastern influences added. The Roman clavus on the tunic had gradually lost distinction until, by the Imperial epoch, it was worn by the lowest servants. It was proudly therefore, as 'The servants of God', that the early Christians are shown wearing the clavus on their wide, ungirdled, sleeved dalmatics. In addition to their costume, angels have some other distinct charateristics. First, angels have a halo around their head; this symbolizes their holiness. Second, angels wear a narrow diadem or a queen's crown that seems to denote their glorious status close to God's throne. Third, the cloth band across the breast resembles a priest's stole, which suggests the sacred role of a priest and symbolizes the grace santified. Fourth, lilies in the annunciations are symbols of Mary's virginity. chastity, innocence and heavenly bliss. Angels hold palms or olives in their hands. The former denote prosperity. beauty and the Christians' reward after death; the latter represent peace and amity. the imperial crown made of olives means victory. Fifth, angels in paintings always have a pair of wings, which can be traced to scripture where cherubim and seraphim are described as having pairs of wings. Angels' wings often have colors of the rainbow, and the rainbow is compared to God's glory. Sixth, generally artists paint angels' costumes as white, blue, green, gold and purple. Other colors such as red rarely appear. According, to scriptures it is believed that angels should be depicted 'as white as snow'. According to the biblical expressions of angels as lightning, sun or a pillar of fire, angels should be described as creatures of light. Nevertheless being a form of art, religious paintings may differ in their presentation according to an artist's inspiration and intention. Since religious paintings illustrated above were almost all done before the Reformation, symbols of colors used in the Catholic Church will also be mentioned. The white color symbolizes chastity, purity, brightness, delight and divinity. Green represents new birth, eternal life, spiritual revival and the expectance of the grace of God. Blue, the color of sapphires, denotes chastity and truth. Red, the color of rubies, represents divinity, love and religious passion. Violet is the color of dignity, indicating the sovereign, royal or imperial power and the great Sacrifice of Christ. As mentionad above, angels' costumes were expressed in accordance with contemporary patterns or as indicated in the Bible, and accesories and colors correspond with Christian symbols. Therefore these facts should be taken into consideration when it comes to the study of costume history.