• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.163-169
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• 1991

Sixty seven regular wave tests were performed in a wave-current flume to investigate proper-ties of waves breaking on irregular slope profiles. In these tests, 1/10, 1/20 beach slopes were made using angles and plywoods. A little differences were found in such properties as breaker depth and height indices. runup for plane slopes comparing with other laboratory experiments. however. for smaller deepwater wave steepness, measured breaker height and depth data values were smaller than other formulas. On wave runup agreement was good between experiments and Hunt formula. however. measured data values were influenced by number of breaking. Significant differences were found in breaker depth index for plane and barred slopes. Wave height decay after breaking was found to be smaller than Dally et al.'s formula (1984).

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2007.05a
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• pp.570-576
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• 2007

수중천퇴가 있는 지형을 통과하며 변형하는 파랑을 실험한 Vincent와 Briggs (1989)의 실험조건을 수치모의하여 파랑과 흐름의 상호작용 효과를 연구하였다. SHORECIRC 흐름모형을 결합한 파랑모형 REF/DIF 1과 SWAN, 그리고 파랑과 흐름을 동시에 수치모의 할 수 있는 FUNWAVE를 이용하여 수중천퇴상을 통과하며 변형하고 또 다시 수중천퇴상에서 발생한 쇄파에 의해 발생된 쇄파류에 의해 변형하는 규칙파를 수치모의하였다. 수중천퇴상에서 쇄파가 발생할 때 잉여파응력의 급격한 변화에 따른 강한 유사제트류가 발생하고, 이 흐름은 수중천퇴후면의 파집중현상을 방해하여 파랑을 천퇴중심축으로부터 바깥쪽으로 굴절시켜, 파고를 상대적으로 감소시키는 역할을 한다. 이러한 역학은 실험결과와 본 연구의 수치모의를 통해 확인할 수 있었고, 이는 파랑쇄파류의 파랑변형에 미치는 역할의 중요성을 확인시켜주는 것이다. 규칙파 모의에 한계가 있는 SWAN과 규칙파 특성상 강하게 나타나는 중복파의 잉여파응력계산에 한계가 있는 REF/DIF 1과 달리 FUNWAVE를 이용한 수치모의는 실험결과와 완벽히 일치하였으며, 수중천퇴 후면에 발생하는 쇄파류와 쇄파류에 의한 쌍 vortex의 발달과정을 잘 보여 주었다.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.685-705
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• 2014

This paper presents a new formulation for forward scalar wave simulations in semi-infinite media. Perfectly-Matched-Layers (PMLs) are used as a wave absorbing boundary layer to surround a finite computational domain truncated from the semi-infinite domain. In this work, a hybrid formulation was developed for the simulation of scalar wave motion in two-dimensional PML-truncated domains. In this formulation, displacements and stresses are considered as unknowns in the PML domain, while only displacements are considered to be unknowns in the interior domain. This formulation reduces computational cost compared to fully-mixed formulations. To obtain governing wave equations in the PML region, complex coordinate stretching transformation was introduced to equilibrium, constitutive, and compatibility equations in the frequency domain. Then, equations were converted back to the time-domain using the inverse Fourier transform. The resulting equations are mixed (contain both displacements and stresses), and are coupled with the displacement-only equation in the regular domain. The Newmark method was used for the time integration of the semi-discrete equations.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.30-38
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• 2009

In recent years, there's been strong demand for coastal structures that have a permeability that serves water affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine the wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates over the coastal structures with a steep slope. A numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable underlayer and laboratory measurements was carried out in terms of the free surface elevations and fluid particle velocities for the cases of regular and irregular waves over 1:5 impermeable and permeable slopes. The numerical results were used to evaluate the application and limitations of the PBREAK numerical model. The numerical model could predict the cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably, but showed less accurate results in the breaking zone that the mass and momentum influx is exchanged the most. Except near the wave crest, the computed depth averaged velocities could represent the measured profile below the trough level fairly well.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.10-17
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• 1992

An elliptic finite difference numerical model is presented for the effective calculation of wave transformation on the water of slowly varying sea bed with currents. Elliptic governing equation has been used, which is derived by Joeng(1990) and Chae et al(1989). Numerical results are compared with analytic solution and laboratory data(Ito and Tanimoto, 1972), and show good agreement. This model is very efficient for modelling large area because of no numerical stable condition and high calculation speed. The capability and utility of the model are illustrated by application to current coexisting area.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.70-79
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• 2024

In this study, we introduce a linear spectral method capable of simulating wave generation and transformation caused by a moving bottom in a 3-dimensional space. The governing equations are linear dynamic free-surface boundary conditions and linear kinematic free-surface boundary conditions, which are solved in Fourier space. Solved velocity potential and free-surface displacement should satisfy continuity equation and kinematic bottom boundary condition. For numerical analysis, a 4th order Runge-Kutta method was utilized to analyze the time integral. The results obtained in Fourier space can be converted into velocity potential and free-surface displacement in a real space using inverse Fourier transform. Regular waves generated by various types of moving bottoms were simulated with the linear spectral method. Additionally, obliquely generated regular waves using specified bottom movements were simulated. The results obtained from the spectral method were compared to analytical solutions, showing good agreement between the two.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Navigation
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.23-27
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• 1999

When a ship is running in following and quartering seas and on a crest with the ship′s length being nearly the same as the wave length, ship′s stability will be lost most; "T" shape crests with highly concentrated energy will appear during the process of transformation from irregular waves to regular ones, and the ship may be under continuous impact of large waves for a long period of time; Synchronism will also appear when the ship′s natural period of rolling and period of encounter are close to each other. For safe navigation, proper stability should be well ensured, proper speed and course chosen with speed under 1.8L1/2 kn (L is the ship′s length), initial listing avoided, special attention paid to steering.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 1989

Theoretical studies have been made to analyze combined refraction diffraction of the wind waves propagating on a large scale current in water of varying depth. The governing equation for monochromatic waves was derived through splitting a mild slope equation into two equations. A numerical model is developed using finite difference scheme which is computationally very efficient for modelling large area. Numerical examples concerning the interactions between waves and rip currents over a gentle slope are presented, in which the current effects on the wave diffraction in the caustic region are closely examined.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.248-257
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• 2011

In the present study, we proposed a new numerical wave tank model to analyze the vertical tension-leg circular floating bodies, using a 2-D Navier-Stokes solver. An IBM(Immersed Boundary Method) capable of handling interactions between waves and moving structures with complex geometry on a standard regular Cartesian grid system is coupled to the VOF(Volume of Fluid) method for tracking the free surface. Present numerical results for the motions of the floating body were compared with existing experimental data as well as numerical results based on FAVOR(Fractional Area Volume Obstacle Representation) algorithm. For detailed examinations of the present model, the additional hydraulic experiments for floating motions and free surface transformations were conducted. Further, the versatility of the proposed numerical model was verified via the numerical and physical experiments for the general rectangular floating bodies. Numerical results were compared with experiments and good agreement was archived.