• Title/Summary/Keyword: regular wave

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Wave Transformation near the Surfzone on the Arbitrary Beach Profile (불규칙한 수심단면에서 쇄파대 부근의 파고변형)

  • Choi, Han-Kyu;Gang, Jang-Su;Lee, Cheol-Eung
    • Journal of Industrial Technology
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    • v.17
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    • pp.261-275
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    • 1997
  • The objective of this paper is to develop two numerical model for predicting the wave height with set-up/down near the surfzone on a arbitrary beach profile. Two wave models, regular wave model and random wave model, are based on the energy flux equation with the energy dissipation effects. The developed numerical models are verified by comparison of numerical results with analytical solutions that are derived under the simple conditions. The characteristics of parameters included in each model are then investigated and decided to the range of behaviour by the sensitivity analysis. For sensitivity analysis, we carried out total 46 laboratory tests. Finally, the developed numerical models are applied to the field where the wave height near the surfzone has been measured. From the applications of numerical models, it is concluded that the developed numerical models may accurately predict the wave height with the set-up/down near the surfzone on a arbitrary beach profile.

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On the Wave Loads on a Large Volume Offshore Structure (대형해양구조물에 작용하는 파랑하중에 관하여)

  • 홍도천;홍은영;이상무
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.33-38
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    • 1987
  • The first order mation responses of a floating structure and the hydrodynamic forces in regular waves are obtained by means of the linear potential theory. The first order potential is obtained directly from the numerical solution of the improved Green integral equation which is characterized by the combined surface distribution of sources and normal doublets. The mean second order wave drift force is also calculated by means of the near field method. It seems that the present method gives more accurate numerical results than other methods and the agreement between numerical and experimental results appears to be satisfactory.

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Analysis on the Characteristics of the Irregular Wave Group (불규칙 파군의 특성해석)

  • 이철응;이길성
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.5 no.4
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    • pp.395-405
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    • 1993
  • Wave grouping, which is one of the important characteristics of the irregular wave, is analyzed by the run-length theory and the SIWEH(Smoothed Instantaneous Wave Energy History) theory. After studying the basic properties of the regular wave group synthesized using the harmonic waves. the characteristics of the irregular wave group observed at the East sea is analyzed. It is concluded that for accurate analysis of irregular wave grouping concepts of run length and SIWEH as well as spectrum analysis should In examined.

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Experimental and numerical study on the wave force calculation of a partially immersed horizontal cylindrical float

  • Liu, Bijin;Fu, Danjuan;Zhang, Youquan;Chen, Xiaoyun
    • International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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    • v.12 no.1
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    • pp.733-742
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    • 2020
  • Taking the cylindrical float of the floating fence of a floating litter collection device as the research object, based on the shallow immersion characteristics of the cylindrical float, the Morison equation is modified, and the interaction between regular waves and the partially immersed horizontal cylindrical float is discussed in combination with scale model test. The results show that the modified Morison equation can accurately predict the wave force of the horizontal cylindrical float and reveal the influence of amplitude, immersion depth and period on the wave force of the cylindrical float. For partially immersed cylindrical floats, the wave force increases with the increase in wave height and decays with the increase in period. The positive value distribution of the wave force is larger than that of the negative direction, and the difference between the positive and negative directions is mainly affected by the immersion depth.

Experimental Study on Wave Overtopping Rate of Wave Overtopping Control Structure for Wave Energy Conversion (파랑 에너지 변환을 위한 월파제어구조물의 월파량 산정 실험)

  • Shin, Seung-Ho;Hong, Key-Yong
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.19 no.6 s.67
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    • pp.8-15
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    • 2005
  • Wave energy has been considered to be one of the most promising energy resources for the future, as it is pollution-free and an abundant natural resource. However, since it has drawbacks of non-stationary energy density, it is necessary to change the wave energy into a simple concentrated energy. Progressive waves in a coastal area can be amplified, swashed, and overtopped by a wave overtopping control structure. By conserving the quantity of overflow in a reservoir, the kinetic energy of the waves can be converted to the potential energy with a hydraulic head above the mean sea level. The potential energy in the form of a hydraulic head can be utilized to produce electric power, similar to hydro-electric power generation. This study aims to find the most optimal shape of wave overtopping structure for maximum overtopping volume of sea water; for this purpose, we carried out the wave overtopping experiment in a wave tank, under both regular and irregular wave conditions.

Experimental and numerical investigation of a surface-fixed horizontal porous wave barrier

  • Poguluri, Sunny Kumar;Kim, Jeongrok;George, Arun;Cho, I.H.
    • Ocean Systems Engineering
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.1-16
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    • 2021
  • Experimental and numerical investigations were conducted to study the performance of a surface-fixed horizontal porous wave barrier in regular waves. The characteristics of the reflection and transmission coefficients, energy dissipation, and vertical wave force were examined versus different porosities of the barrier. Numerical simulations based on 3D Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equations with standard low-Re k-ε turbulent closure and volume of fluid approach were accomplished and compared with the experimental results conducted in a 2D wave tank. Experimental measurements and numerical simulations were shown to be in satisfactory agreement. The qualitative wave behavior propagating over a horizontal porous barrier such as wave run-up, wave breaking, air entrapment, jet flow, and vortex generation was reproduced by CFD computation. Through the discrete harmonic decomposition of the vertical wave force on a wave barrier, the nonlinear characteristics were revealed quantitatively. It was concluded that the surface-fixed horizontal barrier is more effective in dissipating wave energy in the short wave period region and more energy conversion was observed from the first harmonic to higher harmonics with the increase of porosity. The present numerical approach will provide a predictive tool for an accurate and efficient design of the surface-fixed horizontal porous wave barrier.

A Study on the Concentration of Wave Energy by Construction of a Submerged Coastal Structure (해저구조물 설치에 따른 파랑에너지 집적에 관한 연구)

  • Gug, S.G.;Lee, J.W.
    • Journal of Korean Port Research
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    • v.6 no.1
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    • pp.69-91
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    • 1992
  • A new type of horizontal submerged break water or fixed structure to control waves near coastal area is introduced to focus wave energy before or behind it. Intentionally, the water depth near the structure is changed gradually to get a refraction and diffraction effect. The concentration of wave energy due to the structure was analyzed for the selected design of structure. The shape of the submerged structure in consideration is a circular combined with elliptical curve not to cause reflection of waves at the extreme edge of the structure but cause wave scattering. The direction of the structure against the incident wave is changed easily in the model Applying a regular wave train the following were examined. 1) whether a crescent plain submerged structure designed by the wave refraction theory can concentrate wave energy at a focal zone behind and before it without wave breaking phenomenon. 2) Location of maximum wave amplification factor in terms of the incident wave direction, wave period, etc. In any event the study would contribute to control waves near coastal area and to protect a beach from erosion without interruption of ocean view it is an useful study for the concentration of wave energy efficiently with the increase of wave height.

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Laboratory Experiments on Reflection of Regular Waves due to Submerged Breakwaters (수중방파제 형상에 따른 규칙파의 반사실험)

  • 이종인;김영택;조용식
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.15 no.3
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    • pp.167-175
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    • 2003
  • In this study, reflection of regular waves over a train of submerged breakwaters is experimentally investigated. Wave reflection from various-shaped submerged breakwaters is examined by using laboratory experiment and eigenfunction expansion method. Shapes of submerged breakwaters are rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal and semi-circular. Laboratory measurements are compared with predicted coefficients obtained from the eigenfunction expansion method. Although measured coefficients are slightly smaller than predicted ones, the overall agreement is very good. The present study can provide a criterion for the proper choice of a shape of submerged breakwaters in practical situation.

Hydrodynamic Response of Spar with Single and Double Heave Plates in Regular Waves

  • Sudhakar, S.;Nallayarasu, S.
    • International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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    • v.3 no.4
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    • pp.188-208
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    • 2013
  • The motion response of floating structures should be adequately low to permit the operation of rigid risers along with dry well heads. Though Spar platforms have low heave responses under lower sea state, could become unacceptable in near resonance region of wave periods. Hence the hydrodynamic response, heave in particular, must be examined to ensure that it is minimized. To reduce heave motions, external damping devices are introduced and one such effective damping device is heave plate. Addition of heave plate can provide additional viscous damping and additional added mass in the heave direction which influence the heave motion. The present study focuses on the influence of heave plate on the hydrodynamic responses of Classic Spar in regular waves. The experimental investigation has been carried out on a 1:100 scale model of Spar with single and double heave plates in regular waves. Numerical investigation has been carried out to derive the hydrodynamic responses using ANSYS AQWA. The experimental results were compared with those obtained from numerical simulation and found to be in good agreement. The influence of disk diameter ratio, wave steepness, pretension in the mooring line and relative spacing between the plates on the hydrodynamic responses of Spar are evaluated and presented.

Stem Wave Analysis of Regular Waves using a Boussinesq Equation (Boussinesq 방정식을 이용한 규칙파의 연파해석)

  • Lee, Jong-In;Kim, Young-Taek;Yoon, Sung-Bum
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.19 no.5
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    • pp.446-456
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    • 2007
  • Numerical analyses of stem waves, the interaction between incident and reflected waves of obliquely incident regular waves along a vertical wall in a constant water depth, are presented. For the numerical model of the analysis, the two-layer Boussinesq equations developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a,b) are employed. Numerical results are compared with both laboratory measurements and those obtained using parabolic approximation model. The overall comparisons between the results from the two numerical models and the experiments are good. However, the two-layer Boussinesq model is more accurate than the parabolic approximation model as the angle of incident waves increases. In particular, the higher harmonic generation due to the wave nonlinearity is captured only in the Boussinesq model.