• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.11
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• pp.1-9
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• 2002

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make patterns of several sizes. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for junior-high school girls' lower clothes and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 402 junior-high school girls of 13 to 15 year's-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3㎝ and 4㎝ respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4.5%, was classified 8 cases. For regular grading, two types of group were classified into 58-82/61-86/64-90/67-94 and 61-82/64-86/67-90/70-94. Among them, 61-86 and 64-86 size were adopted the basic size for the development of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, new grading rule patterns were developed by each size. A new grading rule was different from the Moonwha grading rule. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.123-131
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• 2009

This study aims at presenting the basic data related to the somatotype of elderly men at the point of Korea's entering into an aging society. Efforts were made to classify the lower-half somatotype of elderly men, with the application of the measurements of 261 elderly men of 60 years of age and over up to 70, which were available from the physique measurement survey project for Koreans. The number of analysis items was 31. The statistical treatment was made through SPSS win 12.0 program, and the analytical methods used were the basic statistics, factor analysis, and cluster analysis. The findings are as follows: Elderly men experienced the decreases in height and weight, in comparison with middle-aged ones, while they showed a flat shape at trunk, with more protruded waist and abdomen and with flat buttock. The analysis of the constituting factors for the lower-half body of elderly men resulted in the 6 items. The elements constituting the lower-half body of elderly men included the shape from waist to hip, the spread of hip and height of knee, the shape of leg, thigh size, the length of leg, and the volume of abdominal. The total accountability was 81.59 %. The cluster analysis for lower-half somatotype of elderly men resulted in the classification of three types. The above findings are intended to assist the designing of ready-made slacks with a high level of fitness for elderly men.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.821-833
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• 2012

This study surveys preferred style and fit problems according to stature groups like short, medium, and tall to offer information to upgrade the clothing fit and satisfaction for each stature group. For this purpose, the questionnaire was accomplished, and the respondents were 18-59 year old women divided into 3 stature groups. The 6 questions were: (1) the preferred clothing style for 3 stature groups, (2) the conformity of stature designation on ready-made clothing, (3) frequency of restrictions on clothing design selection because of short or tall stature, (4) the important part to decide a good fit for a jacket, blouse, slacks, and skirt, (5) dissatisfaction with clothing fit and frequency of mending, and (6) mended part for a correct fit. They were analyzed according to 3 stature groups and the differences among 3 stature groups were found on them. For example, short women preferred short jackets; however, tall women preferred a long length. Short women experienced more restrictions on clothing design (or length) selection because a short stature. Hip girth was more important to decide a good fit for tall women versus short or medium women. Armhole and slacks width from crotch to knee were important parts to decide a good fit for short women. The study results should be applied to clothing design (or pattern making) in order to upgrade clothing fit and satisfaction for each stature group.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.774-780
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to better assess and understand current needs and wearing sensation, including clothing behavior for early elderly women in the Korea and USA. The subjects in this study were 135 and 173 early elderly women in the Korea and USA. This research was done by a survey method and chi-square test. The major objectives of this study were as follows; First, it was found that the early elderly women of Korea utilize mostly human information as information source when purchasing clothing, whereas those of USA mostly media information. The women of Korea were found to put most emphasis in esthetic aspects of clothing, whereas those of USA in comfort. The most frequently worn clothes by the early elderly women of Korea were jumper, T-shirt and slacks, whereas jacket, sweater and slacks by those of USA. As for skirt, flare skirt was highly preferred in Korea, whereas A-line skirt in USA. Second, regarding the wearing sensation of ready-made clothing, the wearing sensation of jacket was found to be worst on the shoulder in Korea, whereas on the waist in USA. And the early elderly women of both Korea and USA had poor wearing sensations due to the length of sleeve, of trouser, of skirt and of one-piece dress. The comparison of the clothing behavior and wearing sensation of the early elderly women between Korea and USA showed a greater difference in clothing behavior than in wearing sensation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.634-640
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• 2004

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear. Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make various size pattern. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for high school boys' pants and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 217 high school boys of 16 to 18 year-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3 cm and 4 cm respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4%, was classified 8 cases. Among them, 71-92 and 71-88 size were the most frequent size and were adopted the basic size for the two types of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, 4 size's new grading-rule patterns were developed by each size. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.