• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.102-117
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• 2008

This study shows the badge system for military officials of Joseon dynasty. The badge system for military officials of the 15th century consists of rank badges with tiger and leopard for the first and second ranks and rank badges with bear for the third rank. According to the code of laws, military officials are supposed to wear the rank badges with four different kinds of animals in Joseon dynasty. However, the badge system shown in the code of laws sometimes does not match with the badges in practices. Based on the literature, remaining badges and the badges in portraits, six different kinds of badges with animals are found : First, rank badges with tiger and leopard were used until the late 16th century. Second, rank badges with tiger were found in the period between the early 17th century and the latter 18th century. Third, rank badges with Haechi were found in the early 17th century. Fourth, rank badges with lions can be found in remains of the mid 17th century, the literature and the portrait of the late 18th century. Finally, the rank badges with double leopards or with single leopard were found from a portrait dated the late of 18th century to the last period of Joseon dynasty.

• KOMUNHWA
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• no.57
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• pp.211-231
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine and compare the origins and development of Chinese rank badge and Korean rank badge, giving special attention to the rank squares for civil and military officials. rank badge was first established during the reign o

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.9
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• pp.129-141
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• 2008

Jikgeum(woven with supplementary golden wefts) hyungbae(rank badge) of danryung(official uniform) excavated from Im Backryung'tomb($1498{\sim}1546$) of the Joseon dynasty($1392{\sim}1910$) at Goyang, Gyunggi-Do in 2007, was in a critical condition because of serious collapse of substrate in metal thread. For conservation of hyungbae, metal thread was examined by different scientific methods(Light Microscope, Scanning Electron Microscope and Energy Dispersive X-Rray Spectrometry(SEM-EDS), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy(FT-IR)). Analytical data showed that metal thread was gilt membrane strip composed of gold leaves and proteinaceous substrate which was probably parchment. To protect collapse of substrate, 1% solution of Paraloid B-72 was infilterated into substrate for consolidation of substrate and it was adhered to warp of fabric in hyungbae, before wet cleaning. After wet cleaning, the most of the gold leaves were restored, which was confirmed by both the examination with the naked eye and the microscopic examination.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.180-203
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• 2020

In this study, the period before the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits was expressed in the acheongsaek-Heuk-Danryung was defined as the first period, and the costumes worn in portraits of meritorious vassals from Gaeguk (1392) in the early Joseon Dynasty to Jwali (1471) during the era of King Seongjong were reviewed. The portraits(1476) of Jeokgae meritorious vassals (1467) depicted as the Gwanbok of acheongsaek Heuk-Danryung were excluded. Among the copies that are currently considered to be portraits of meritorious vassals belonging to the first period, the portraits of Lee-je, Lee Cheon-woo, Ma Cheon-mok, Shin Suk-ju, Seol Gye-jo, and Lee Sung-won were selected, and the formative characteristics of Gwanbok components were examined. The Samo of Sam-Gongsin in the early Joseon Dynasty had a low height, a rounded end, and the side wings were narrow and short. However, since King Danjong, Jeongnan·Jwali meritorious vassals retained a higher form, and the side wings were twice as long. It was also confirmed that the pattern was not expressed in the side wings. The Danryung was expressed in light-colored Danryung without specific colors at the beginning of the country. After King Sejong, the Heuk-Danryung system for Yebok began, but it was not reflected in the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits, and was expressed as damhongsaek-Danryung after King Danjong. The pattern was not expressed on the exterior of the Danryung, and inner-wrinkled Mu was expressed on the side line. The Dapho and Cheolrik, the undergarments of the Danryung, were also confirmed as being blue (the Dapho) and green (the Cheolrik) after the Jeongnan meritorious vassals. The early Sam-Gongsin's Pumgye was expressed by rank belt, but as the system of rank badge was established after King Danjong, it began to express the Pumgye by rank badge and rank belt. Among the portraits of meritorious vassals, the rank badge was expressed only in the portrait of Sin Suk-ju, a Jeongnan meritorious vassal. As Hwaja worn on the Danryung, Heuk-hwa were confirmed in the Sam-Gongsin portraits of the early Joseon Dynasty. However, in the portraits of Jeongnan and Jwali meritorious vassals after King Danjong, the Baek-hwa was confirmed. In addition, in the seam parts of the Heuk-hwa and Baek-hwa identified in some portraits of meritorious vassals, Hwi decorated with yeongeumsa were identified, and it was found that the Hwaja decorated with Hwi were the Hyeopgeum-hwa worn by the 3rd rank and above.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.120-147
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• 2019

In this study, we divided the portraits in the reign of King Seonjo into those which were created before and after the Japanese invasion. We then examined various aspect of costumes expressed in the portraits of meritorious vassals. To analyze official uniforms (Heuk-Danryeung), we examined the Samo height; the side wings' type and pattern; the Danryeung pattern; the Mu style; the processing method of lateral lines in Danryeung the rank badge and rank belt, the color of Dabho and Cheolrik, which were undergarment of Danryeung and Heuk-wa. The meritorious vassals' portraits, prior to Imran, were analyzed with a portrait of Han Eung-in, a Gwang-kuk Pyeong-nan meritorious vassals. The Samo was the highest of the Choson dynasties, and the cloud and treasure pattern was identified on the side wings. The Heuk-Danryeung was a dark blue(acheongsaeg) Danryeung of manja-shaped cloud patterns with a large outward wrinkled Mu, and it had a wild goose badge (second rank) and a Sabgeumdae. It did not coincide with the Pumgye(Jaheondaebu) recorded in Gugjo-inmulgo. Reddish Dabho for Dangsang-kwan, green Cheolrik which was undergarment of Danryeung, and Heuk-wa. were identified. After the invasion of Japan, portraits of Hoseong, Seonmu, and Cheong-nan meritorious vassals were analyzed through eighteen portraits, including Lee Hyeon-bok. After the invasion of the Japanese, the height of the Samo's top was much lower and the width of the side wings was wider than before the invasion of Japanese. The Heuk-Danryeung was a dark blue (acheongsaeg) Danryeung of manja-shaped cloud patterns with a stretching backward Mu. Rank badge and rank belts were almost identical with the record, but there were two exceptions (Sin-jab and Kim, Sae-sin). Therefore, it was reaffirmed that the meritorious vassals' portraits were drawn by the Pumgye at the time of appointment. Among the undergarments of Heuk-Danryeung, green Dabho(11), blue Dabho(4), reddish Dabho(3), and blue Cheolrik(10), green Cheolrik(6), reddish Cheolrik(1), and yucheongsaeg Cheolrik(1) were identified, However, it is suggested that the Dabho of Hoseong, Seonmu, and Cheong-nan meritorious vassals should be the reddish Dabho of Dangsang-kwan, which is the same as the previous Imran, and a green Cheolrik.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.134-152
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• 2008

In this paper, embroidery works with a certain date are divided by a category, and they are reviewed in terms of original fabrics, embroidery patterns, the form of an artwork, embroidery techniques, and etc with the aim of the understanding of the Joseon period embroidery. In the second part, I examine the history of Korean embroidery from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon dynasty along with the written records and extant embroidery works. The third part, Joseon embroidery revealed by the analysis of the remaining embroidery works, divides Joseon embroidery by two kinds, bridal robe and rank badge as well as an embroidery screen. Through the examination of these extant works, I try to rediscover the historic significance of Joseon embroidery, and also hope to help people to gain an expert opinion on Joseon embroidery.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.1-19
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• 2010

The Assyrians usually wore two types - the tunic and the shawl. These two types were worn alone, or in combination and changes were introduced by varying the proportions of the tunic or shawl. The tunic appeared to be of the sleeves are short and reaching to the ankles or shortened to knee length according to the rank. Assyrian shawl pattern can be divided into five distinct styless. Many of the styles were suitable for costumes to wear in religious plays and pageants. Fringed shawls were the trademark of forma1 Assyrian costume. The usual badge of rank was a long fringed shawl. Intermediate rank wore shawl with short fringes and lower grade wore no shawl at all. The military costume was comparative uniformity : conical helmets was regarded as Scythic in character, short, fringed tunics, wide belts or helmet, round caps and long tunics covered in metal scales, belted at the waist. Assyrian woman costume was the long tunic with fringed hem and a long fringed shawl or was a plaid tunic and wide belt over it. They wore gold crown and horned Cap and tiara, ugal (head-dress) and the most ordinary earrings were the drop and the cross shape and necklace was made of the coloured stones and bracelets ended with heads of animal was regarded as Scythy style or adorned with a rosette at the centre.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.198-210
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.142-163
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• 2020

In the early Joseon dynasty, the meritorious vassals' portrait of Jeokgae (1467, 1476), Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507), and Wisa (1545) were defined as the 2^nd period of the official uniform, in which the acheongsaek HeukDanryung appeared and settled. A total of seven portraits were analyzed, including three portraits of Jeokgae (1467, portrait production 1476) Son-so, Oh Jachi, and Jang Malson, and four portraits of Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507) Yoo Sunjung, Hong Gyeongju, Lee Woo, and Yoo Hong. In the portrait of the Jeokgae wearing a Yebok HeukDanryung, in the case of the Samo, the height of the Samo, which had been raised at the beginning of King Seongjong, was lowered again, and the parietal part was rounded. The pattern was not expressed on the wide oval side wings of the Samo. In addition, the pattern was not expressed on the acheongsaek Danryung, Dapho, and Cheolrik. The colors of Dapho and Cheolrik were unified in green and red, respectively. The Mu of Danryung and Dapho was expressed as 'in and out wrinkled Mu', and the shoes were expressed in Baekhwa. Another feature is that the Jeokgae's portrait is expressed not as the Pumgye at the time of appointment, but as the Pumgye of the portrait production time. In the portrait of the Jeongguk·Jeongnan wearing a Sibok HeukDanryung, the height of the Samo lowered from the Jeokgae was maintained, while the parietal part was slightly narrowed and bent forward. The side wings of the Samo were expressed as an oval with a uniform width, and still the pattern was not expressed on the side wings. The pattern was not expressed in the costume of the Danghagwan's portrait, but the cloud pattern began to be expressed in the costume of the Dangsanggwan's portrait. And the Danryung was expressed as single Danryung without lining. In the portrait of Dangsang, the red Dapho and green Cheolrik were expressed, and in the portrait of Dangha, the green Dapho and blue Cheolrik were expressed. Therefore, it was found that the color of the undergarment was distinguished according to the Dangsang and Dangha. In Danryung and Dapho, the 'in and out wrinkled Mu' were maintained. The shoes were expressed in Heukhwa, and the rank badge and rank belt reflect the Pumgye at the time of the appointment. On the other hand, the portrait of Wisa could not be confirmed, but through the recording painting of the reign of King Meongjong, it was found that it was similar to the Danryung system of the reign of King Jungjong. Through the 2^nd period of the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeokgae, it was confirmed that the HeukDanryung outfit began to be used as the official uniform of the meritorious vassal's portrait, and that the Pumgye of the portrait production time was reflected in the portrait. After the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeongguk, the pattern began to be expressed in the costumes, and in particular, it was possible to distinguish Dasang and Dangha by the presence or absence of the HeukDanryung's pattern. In addition, it was confirmed that the expressed aspect of the official uniform was consistent with the practices and regulations at the time.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.15
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• pp.38-55
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• 2014

Three costumes excavated from the tomb of Yu Gyeongjong ^1565-1623, which are now own at Buyeo National Museum, underwent conservation treatment. As a result of this treatment, the costume types were correctly identified and their original forms were restored. Through the restoration process, various key features were discovered, enabling the costume types to be correctly identified as a dallyeong ^{Official's Uniform with Round Collar}, jingnyeong ^{Coat with Straight Collar}, and changui ^{Coat with Slits in the Rear and Sides}. One of the newly discovered key features was a new variety of pattern that differed from the prevalent cloud pattern of the time. Also, on the dallyeong, it was found that the ground of the hyungbae ^{Rank Badge}, was made from yeongeumsa ^{Wrapped Gold Thread}. These costumes are significant artifacts showing trends, patterns, forms, and other key characteristics of clothing from the late sixteenth to the early seventeenth century.