• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.1015-1026
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• 2006

The purpose of the study were to find out (1) the effect of motives on perceiver's image perception on ramie fabrics, and perceiver's trait, age and gender on sensory image evaluation of ramie fabrics. The research was a quasi experiment and experimental materials developed for the study were a set of material stimuli and semantic differential scales to measure sensory image of the stimuli, an aesthetic value scale. the independent design was motif design techniques(Plain Weave, burnt-out, embroidery, stripe, check). The subjects were 421 adults in Daejeon and Seachun. The results was as follows: The factor analysis of semantic differential scales for the ramie materials emerged 4 different image dimensions: attractiveness, hand, elegance, weight). The five design techniques showed significantly different image affects on some selective dimensions. The burn-out design gave the most attractive image, the embroidery design gave the softest image and plain weaved fabric presented the lightest hand image. Consumer's aesthetic values, gender and age tended to affect sensory image evaluation of ramie materials. On conclusion the result revealed that design strategy for the ramie material, design development though motives will be an essential process. and for material design pursued design image and target consumer's trait should be carefully considered.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.130-144
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• 2008

A recent concern about Goguryeo era reflects the efforts to find out our spiritual roots, which have descended from the ancient times; Goguryeo clothing study leads to analysis of our national spirit in terms of form. This study aims to analyze formal property and intrinsic meaning of Goguryeo clothing for Korean ramie clothing design and draw traditional images to derive design elements applicable to ramie clothing. On the basis of technical books, newspaper article, internet and precedent studies, theoretical study on Goguryeo clothing and ramie property was followed up with positive study to analyze the clothing on the Goguryeo ancient tomb mural. The results are as follows: First, a progressive spirit is to progress and develop anything actively; This spirit represents Goguryeo people's ambition and racial characteristic as horse-riding people; The rigidity of ramie fabric is suitable for expressing straight silhouettes and detail in Goguryeo dress. Second, a fluidity means flowing property in opposition to fixation; in the case of clothing, it has a tendency to change form according to body motions; The extensibility and crease-resistance of ramie fabric is suitable to express pleated skirts and holds high design value for modern people who tend to regard clothing as important individuality expression. Third, a universal property to introduce and receive; as Goguryeo was a prosperous country established by conquering an open plain, the period formed a society that recognized diversity by introducing foreign cultures freely; a universality suggests the direction of modernization of traditional ramie clothing and stimulates us to discovert new design through compromise between various cultures rather than to stick to traditional style. Considering the fact that precedent studies on traditional clothing are concentrated upon the Joseon period and also limited to formal analysis, this study aims to derive design elements for actual clothing making. These results are expected to be used as basic material for study as well as reference for designers who wish to design modern Korean clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.438-444
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• 2011

Bamboo leaves, as natural dye provide unartificial fresh green, are known for expert property at anti-bacterial, anti-aging, anti-oxidation, skin whitening, moisturizing, peeling of horny, deodorizing and some skin disease like as eczema and inflammation without any allergic response. Also, It is quite common to obtain bamboo leaves from our surrounding but most of them were not in use. On purpose of development the way of recycle with common material to dye, bamboo leaves were used to dye on ramie fiber which is valuable for both of apparel and industrial field and investigated their dyeing property. Using extract from bamboo leaves, dyeing property was examined with dyeability, colorimetric property, light fastness and wash fastness under different conditions by extract density, dyeing time, dyeing method and mordants. As results, dyeing was generally colored in yellowish, K/S Value was shown more higher on hemp fiber than ramie. The most optimum dyeing condition was investigated on pre-mordant treatment, dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, dyeing time 30min and extract density 400%. On the treatment with mordant(Al, Fe, Cu), dyebility on both of hemp and ramie fiber were increased by mordant. Especially with Copper(Cu) as mordant, dyebility was highly increased than any other mordants and dyeings showed in deep color. Also on the fastness test which is the most important to natural dyeing, wash-fastness showed good performance with 4-5 grade but light-fastness was above 4 grade on both of hemp and ramie fiber, lower than wash-fastness overall.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Crop Science Conference
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• 2017.06a
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• pp.226-226
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• 2017

This study was to evaluate methods to high quality food ramie rice cake, thereby increasing farm income. This study investigated the effects of different covering material on stable winter survival management with edible leaf in Ramie(Boehmeria nivea L.). The method of winter survival with covering material were conducted under three condition compose to Non covering, Rice straw cutting covered with 500kg.10a-1, Rice husks covered with 1,000kg.10a-1(covered 4~5 cm thickness in the soil surface). Method of application were standard application(N-P-K-Compost applied at 27-9-27-600kg.10a-1. Compost and fused phosphate applied at 100% of basal fertilizer in March 25. 20% of top dressing were four times application in March 25 - October 5. Planting year were March 15, 2011. Plants were spaced 60 cm apart in rows 25 cm apart with open cultivation. According to non covering < Rice husks covered with 1,000kg.10a-1 < Rice straw cutting covered with 500kg.10a-1 cultivation this order, aerial part as a result were plenty amount of growth. Sprout time and winter survival rates was uncovering control plot compared to 2 - 5 days quickly, 45-57% highly by rice husks and rice straw covering. Green leaf yields is untreated control plot (12,44 kg.10a-1) compared to rice husks covering 7% higher, and rice straw covering increased to 18% of the most.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.5 no.2 s.6
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• pp.57-64
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• 1996

Korean Paintings have been drawn on in the main two types of support material - paper and silk. In these things, silk designates picture silk, that of a specially weaved textile for painting since CHO-SUN dynasty, different such as hemp, ramie have been started to use for support material In addition to picture silk. However the structure of hemp and ramie are so close and progue, They are not proper to express the technique of pigments on the back of the paintings. On the other hand, picture silk is efficacious in pigments on the back of the painting with its interval between the strands and translucent textile. As the result, paintings on the silk has many - sided techniques as compared with painting on the papers therfore various devices in conservation have to be considered to deal with the techniques. In this report the focus is on classifying the method of removing the Lining paper according to the several types of expression technique of paintings on the silk.

• Polymer(Korea)
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.70-74
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• 2006

Plasticized cellulose diacetate(CDA) was prepared by homogenizing cellulose diacetate(CDA), triacetin(TA) and epoxidized soybean oil (ESO) in a high-speed mixer, then the CDA mixture was mixed with ramie fiber to produce a green composite material. In DMA analysis, the glass transition temperature of plasticized CDA and the composite was observed at $85\;^{\circ}C\;and\;140\;^{\circ}C$, respectively. A composite reinforced with alkali treated ramie fiber exhibited significantly higher mechanical properties, such as $15\;^{\circ}C$ increase in tensile strength as well as $41\;^{\circ}C$ increase in Young's modulus when compared with commercial polypropylene. In the SEM image analysis, much enhanced adhesion between plasticized CDA and alkali treated ramie fiber (AIRa) was observed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.93-104
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics culture of Baekje Period by analyzing the fabrics pieces at a inner part of the It-bronze shoes found at the tomb of King Mu-ryeong in 1971 AD. The analysis methods of the fabrics pieces are a photographing of fabrics pieces surface by VMS, Digital camera(Nikon Coolpix 995) and the analysis of samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. It is assumed this fabrics pieces are the inner shoes, which consisted of compound woven silk at outward, some of tabby and a hemp at inward and the braids for decoration, of the gilt-bronze shoes. The features are as follows. 1. All of compound woven silk are the warp-faced compound tabby of plain fabrics and the density is various from high to low one. Compound woven silk which is attached the gilt-bronze shoes of the tomb of King Mu-ryeong weaves in high density by a thick thread. The fibers material of compound woven silk prove to be a silk by the analysis of wrap samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. 2. Tabby are excavated under the condition which attached on reverse side of compound woven silk. Those ran classify two types. First, the fine weaving by high density of wrap and weft. Second, the loose warp weaving with one warp and some of weft. 3. Hemp is almost ramie by SEM analysis and the density is different. Ramie which supposed to be attached Guem has the very low density. In addition to, Ramie pieces, excavated in condition and weaved finely, proved the conspicuous weaving skill in Baekje period. 4. Various kinds of braid are found and these ones classifies by fiber material and entwining way. Two types out of these are the one of silk thread, decorates the upper, middle parts of compound woven silk shoes and the other of hemp thread, decorates the lower parts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.79-86
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to understand the dyeing properties and color analysis of fabrics knitted with ramie, cotton, wool and acrylic by using scoria and to analyze whether the knitted fabrics can be used for industrialization by measuring color fastness after and before sliver-nano process. The following is the conclusions. Firstly, when ramie fabric regarding cotton, wool and acrylic was dyed at the temperature of $50^{\circ}C$ for fifteen minutes by using 10, 25, 50, 100g/ $\ell$ of scoria, dyeing absorption gradually increased up to 50g/ $\ell$, and over the point of 50g/ $\ell$ it showed slow increase. Secondly, regarding saturation, among ramie fabric, wool, cotton and acrylic, wool appears as the lowest brightness. Therefore, it can be dyed with bright color and the highest value. In terms of the value of chromaticity, wool also emerges as the lowest brightness. On the contrary, acrylic showed the lightest red as it had the value of the smallest b. Cotton takes the lightest yellow as the b value of the cotton showed the smallest. Thus, scoria dyestuff is a material that showed strong red and yellow on knitted fabric mixed with wool that is the biggest a. b value. Thirdly, in terms of dyeing fastness, sunlight fastness did not show noticeable differences before and after silver-nano processes, but in terms of washing and friction fastness, the material processed by silver-nano indicated that all knitted fabrics are over 4-5 point. which means silver-nano process can be effective for the industrial applications. As mentioned above, as a result of dyeing knitted fabrics with scoria, this study found a possibility of dyeing in the fabric materials, and if there is deeper dyeing experiments, fastness experiments and speculations, it might be possible to be a big issue just like loess and charcoal.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.125-130
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• 2003

To develop natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the dyebath extracted from wisteria. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing temperature, pH of dyebath, dyeing time, concentration of dyebath and mordant treatment which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, wool, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(ΔE) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk and cotton fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. In silk and wool fabrics(non mordant, dyeing time-20min), color differences increased in case of dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, but in cotton, ramie and hemp fabrics, color differences did not increase. Without mordant treatment, color differences of all experimental fabrics were about 10-20, so in wisteria dyeing mordant treatment was necessary. Color differences were increased by the mordant treatment; the color of dyed fabrics with Al mordant is dull yellow, Cu mordant is gold and Fe mordant is olive tone. Color difference was not affected by pH of dyebath in all experimental fabrics. On the whole, the color fastness of dyed silk and cotton fabrics were good, but color fastness to washing and perspiration in Fe mordant was weak and improved in Cu mordant.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.