• Natural Product Sciences
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.134-139
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• 2016

Phytochemicals were isolated from leaves of the fiber crop, ramie (Boehmeria nivea, Bn), using open column chromatography and medium pressure liquid chromatography. Their structures were identified as ${\beta}$-sitosterol, (-)-loliolide, rutin, and pyrimidinedione by MS, $^1H$-, and $^{13}C$-NMR spectroscopic analysis. Among them, (-)-loliolide was isolated for the first time from B. nivea. A content analysis of (-)-loliolide in B. nivea collected from different regions and harvest times was conducted by HPLC. The highest content of (-)-loliolide was found in Bn-23 harvested in September. These results will be helpful to use the plant which harvest in September as a high content phytochemical additive in food, health supplements, and medicinal products.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.51-63
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to identify the best dyeing conditions using onion's outer shell. and to apply to the method in practical daily life. To do this. we extracted quercetin from onion's outer shell and dyed several natural fabrics such as cotton, slack mercerized cotton, ramie. and silk. under the different conditions. Dyed fabrics were Investigated in the aspect of dyeability and colorfastness. The effective conditions for the light-fastness and washing-fastness also have been studied. The results of the experiment were varied with such conditions as temperature. time. pH degree. and treatment and types of mordants. The results are as follows ; 1. Fabrics dyed with onion's outer shell showed excellent dyeability even though there were no mordants, and the silk fabric dyed better than both cotton and ramie fabric. Furthermore, in the cases of repeated dyeing and treatment of mordants using AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ and CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ dyeability of specimen had been improved 2. Cellulose fabrics such as cotton, mercerized cotton and ramie showed the best dyeability under relatively low temperature in the range of 20~4$0^{\circ}C$. On the contrary to cellulose fabric, silk fabric showed the best dyeability under higher dyeing temperature. All fabrics had the higest K/S value at pH 3 regardless of the kind of fiber 3. Dyeing colors varied with the kind of mordants. Colors were turned into yellow in AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ into Yellow-red in CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ , and into green-Yellow in FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. As mordants, AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$, CuSO$_4$,. 5$H_2O$. FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. gallic acid and tartaric acid were used and especially AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ showed the best dyeability and colorfastness in repeated dyeing. Mordants such as AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ made fabrics have better chroma and washing-fastness though the light-fastness was poorer than non mordanting. 4. Repeated dyeing brought us deep color. When fresh dyebath was used each time, the dyeability was increased as the experiment was repeated more. When dyed with used dyebath several times, improved dyeability could not be expected. The optimal using times of the used dyebath was twice.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.170-183
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• 2019

Fiber scutching refers to the process of extracting fibers from plants by separating or extracting fibers from the raw materials. As the definition of the term implies, the "Fiber Scutching" is performed on plants with advanced bast fiber as the primary material processing technique performed on plant materials. Some of the most popular phosphorus plants are ramie, hemp, flax, and the paper mulberry, which have a long history of cultivation and a wide range of distribution, making them very universal as a material supporting human life and culture. This study was described in Oju-yeonmunjangjeon-sango but was designed to re-examine the method of breaking dried stalks, which is currently unused in Korea, to examine the feasibility and characteristics of the technology. As a result of sampling and experimenting with hemp bast using the method recorded in the literature, hemp fiber was actually produced. The criteria for removing the shell from the hemp stem were the degree of discoloration and drying, and only when the stalk was completely discolored to yellow could segregation of the stalk from the shell be performed. The amount of sunlight and temperature were conditions that accelerated drying. However, if exposed for a long time, it is confirmed that hemp bast will be in a suitable condition to process, regardless of the amount of sunlight and temperature. 'Breaking of dried stalks', which utilizes the physical power of 'threshing with a flail' is considered a core process of the fiber scutching technique in 'Yukjin' in Hamgyeong-do. The bark and the core of the hemp were separated by tapping, the bast was thinly split, and the shell was peeled off, making it suitable for collecting with thread. The method of collecting the fibers by applying physical power causes downing on the fibers, which is to be generally avoided in the manufacture of bast fabric woven hemp or ramie. However, Hamgyeong-do's fiber scutching method seems to have applied this principle to the method of making fragile fabrics by using it in reverse. This method is distinct from the steaming or boiling of the stalks' in Andong, Korea, and it is similar to the Western method of spinning fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.9-15
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• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.45-53
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• 2004

Natural dyes have poor colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the dyed fabric to sunlight encountered during the display or wearing. As colors on fabrics fade excessively under sunlight, it is a problem to infer and restore the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics to original colors. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to color change under light. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Weather-O-meter was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to light for 2.5 to 450 hours. The process of color changes in the CIEL *A*B* color-order system to the exposure time were determined by spectrophotometer at 10$^{\circ}$ observer. Sunlight exposure caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the type of dye used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc.) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to light. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to fading in both exposure except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in fading, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.34
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• pp.20-29
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• 2013

Paper, textile and wood materials are mainly consisted of cellulose. Cellulose is high molecule and make up the strong crystalline structure by hydrogen bonds. In particular, the polymerization degree of cellulose are closely related to the strength of fiber, and the permanence. the useful life of fiber, also depends on the degradation of this substance. The viscosity of cellulose is considered to be an important indicator of fiber damage in high molecule polymers. The viscosity measurements with CED solution is used to measure the molecular weight and the degree of polymerization of cellulose. Cellulose viscosity of wood fibers is measured with TAPPI standard method T230. However, TAPPI standard method T230 is difficult to completely dissolving the cellulose of high molecular weight and large degree of polymerization, such as Korea traditional papers and fabrics made with mulberry, ramie, cotton fibers. In this study, The high viscosity of hanji and fabric was measured with TAPPI standard method T254. T254 method is that the cellulose specimen with the proper amount of weaker (0.167M CED) solution, and completely dissolved with the stronger (1.0M CED) solution. It was found that cellulose with high degree of polymerization was dissolved more easily in general CED method.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.136-148
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• 2007

African marigold is a common plant easily available in many flower beds. It has been reported as a practical and prospective resource of dyes since the dyes can be extracted from their bodies as well as petals. In this research, cotton and ramie fabrics which are made from natural cellulose were dyed using the extract of the African Marigold which is a variety of marigold. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants. Dyeability was evaluated by examining and measuring surface color, K/S value, and the changes in the maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. For the dyeing with marigold extract, the color tone did not differ by pre-mordanting and non-mordanting. Reaction with post-mordanting was excellent, which was colored in various yellow series. The best dyeability was achieved in dye solution of pH 6.5-7.0 which is not conditioned. The largest K/S value and color difference were obtained in tin mordanting. The dye uptake was greatly increased in chitosan pre-treated mordanting compared with the post-mordanting without chitosan pre-treatment. Due to its high heat resistance, African Marigold extract is easy for dye extraction and dyeing, and its dyeability is excellent for natural cellulose fibers. Also, colorfastness was proved to be practically usable.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1053-1062
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• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.299-303
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• 2003

Some of historical textiles were analyzed to identify the imprinted textures on the metal remains of Haengyeup(a horse strap pendant) and Doja (a knife), which were excavated in the ruins of Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju city in the fifth century and textiles imprinted on the human bones that were excavated in the Pungnae 4th Area, Namyangju county in the sixteenth century. The results analyzed arc as follows ; It was confirmed that the imprinted textures of Haengyeup and Doja are white ramie since the structural characteristics of cellulosic bast fibers, partially projected long oval cross sections with large lumens and the imprinted textures of human bones are silk fabrics since the triangular cross sections of fibroin is showed. All of the textiles were designed in plain weaves. In the case of weaving yarns, the warp threads were thicker than the weft threads, that is, the imprinted textures of Haengyeup were measured by 1.35 mm for warp and 1.21 mm for weft, and the Doja by 1.16mm for warp and 1.11 mm for weft. In connection with the direction of the yarn twist, the Z-twist were observed in the imprinted textures of human bones, whereas it presented the S-twist in the case of Haengyeup and Doja. The warp yarns were mostly harder twisted than the weft yarns on the amounts of twist, that is, it was observed that the case of Haengyeup were amounted to 0.33 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.25 twists per centimeter for weft yarns. Also it was showed 0.32 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.26 twists per centimeter in the case of the textures of human bones. On the fabric counts, it was showed that the finer the yarns the higher the densities since it were $4.3{\times}5.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters and $7.6{\times}7.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters each in the case of Haengyeup and Doja, whereas it was $18.2{\times}33.7$ threads per sqaure centimeters in the case of the textures of human bones.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.81-91
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• 1998

Studied on the changes of physical properties according to frequency of washing of sample such as cotton, ramie, wool, cotton knit, T/C. The results are as follows :1. The tensile strength in cotton, wool, and T/C was not changed by 5 times washing but in cotten knit was increased because hang-down phenomenon. 2.The crease resistance of cellulose fiber was decreased by repeated washing. In the case of wool, That was decreased considerably because of decreasing of elasticity and increasing of density caused by shrinking after washing. 3.The abrasion strength of wool was increased with increase in frequency of washing because of thickness caused by shrinking. 4.By repeated washing, the pills was generated in all of the samples and quantity of pills was increased with increase in frequency of washing, the pills was generated in all of the samples and quantity of pills was increased with increased in frequency of washing. Specially, in the case of cotton knit and wool, the pilling was remarkable. 5.The physical properties of dry cleaned wool was superior than that of wet cleaned wool.