• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.291-297
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• 1989

It was indicated that natural fiber crops Ln Korea have been major crops, such as cotton, flax, ramie and Kenaf. The major varieties andagronomic characterics are summarized as follows. Cotton variety, Mokpo 6 is long fiber length and, is high lint yield, flax variety, Wiera is hiTh amount of dry stem and grains weiTht. On the other hand, kenaf variety, Suweon 2 is high dry fiber weight and fiher ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.8
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• pp.1194-1205
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• 1999

The hand characteristics of bast blended fabrics are studied by a subective evaluation method. To offer basic data for development of better hand of bast fiber fabrics customer's hand preference surveys are executed as well. IN this study 51 varieties of linen or ramie blended fabrics of various blending ratio density and thickness and Hansan ramie Chinese ramie and a Shingosen fabics of various blending ratio density and thickness and Hansan ramie Chinese ramie and a Shingosen farbic and used. To evaluate the hand of the fabrics subjectively nine ranks' semantic differential scale questions of 26 items are developed with adjective pairs. A seven ranks' scale is also developed to evaluate hand preferences in blouse and jacket cloths, Through subjective evaluation of bast blended fabrics the 26 items could be classified into seven kinds of hand classification : surface characteristics extensibility/drapability felling of heaviness stiffness resilience moisture property and feeling of density. The cumulative variance value explained by these seven factors is 67.18% According to the results of fabrics' preference by age groups no significant differences are found in blouse cloths but a few significant differences are found among different age groups in jacket clothes. However experts and non-experts show considerable differences on preference It can be concluded that fabrics' preference I more dependent on professionality than on age. In the survey experts. However more drapery cloths are preferred by experts and cloths with drier touch are preferred by non-experts. Experts prefer rougher less even less winding heavier and sparser fabrics but non-experts prefer rougher lighter thinner and stiffer fabrics as jacket cloths.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.243-248
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• 2007

This study is about the fabric attached to the relics excavated from the Shimchun-ri tomb of the 4th century and the Moonsan-ri tombs of the 5th century. We studied 5 pieces of fabric from the Shimchun-ri tomb: one piece was silk and the other four pieces were hemp. We were able to observe 8 pieces from the four tombs in Moonsan-ri, All of them except one ramie were silk. The two kinds of bast fiber found in the tombs of Shimchun-ri and Moonsan-ri were hemp and ramie, and they were found to be plain woven with S-twist thread which thickness is uneven. The density was more fine compared to the hemps found in the Kaya or Shinra tombs of the similar era. All of the silk textiles found in the Shimchun-ri and Moonsan-ri tombs used non-twisted thread, and were plain woven. Also, we found degummed and raw silk from the tombs. The average density of the silk textiles from these tombs are similar to other areas of the same time, and studies show that they used non-twisted thread in plain woven silk found in other tombs. Therefore, we can conclude that they usually used non-twisted thread when producing silk textiles.

• KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.235-239
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• 1993

To determine the optimal application level of fertilizers, nitrogen, phosphate, potassium and lime in ramie(Beohmeria nivia Hooker et Arnot), the experiments were conducted for four years from seedling stage propagated by suckers to fully-grown stage under various comibinations of $N, P_2O_5, O$ and lime. Increasing in application rate of N and $K_2$O enhanced stem growth of ramie greatly, and it appeared that lime application also had large effect on increase of stem growth. Yield increased greatly by increasing of application rate with two or three times in N and two times in $K_2$O as much as the standard application rate of fertilizers N-$P_2O_5$-$K_2$O =9-3-9kg/l0a. Especially, treatment with 18kg N, 3kg $P_2O_5, $, 18kg $K_2$O and 200kg lime per l0a showed higher percentage of productive culm and increased yield of crude fiber about 33%. The variation among treatments was relatively small in stem length but larger in fresh weight of shoot and stem. The variation was large at early stage of experiment, that is, from one to two years after planting, but decreased progressively from three years after planting. There was no large difference in number of stems among application rates of fertilizers from three years after planting which was fully-grown stage. However, increasing in application rate of Nand $K_2$O twice as much as the standard rate had large effect on increasing the percentage of productive culm, and hence increased yield greatly.

• KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.213-218
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• 1993

An experiment was carried out to investigate the effects of plant growth regulators on the growth and fiber yield of ramie. Gibberellin (GA) and Atonic acid were applied at the various levels of application dates, application frequencies and concentration. Stem growth of ramie increased greatly by applying GA on the meristem of shoot apex. Among three treatments of application frequencies of GA, that is, one time application at the stage of stem length with 50cm, twice applications at the stem length of 50cm and 100cm, and three times applications at stem length of 50cm, 100cm and 150cm, stem growth increased more as application frequency increased. GA application is more effective on stem growth at the later stage of growth than the earlier growth stage. GA treatment of 100 to 300 ppm is more effective on stem elongation than 50 ppm, which was due on the elongation of internodes without increase in number of nodes. One time application of GA enhanced leaf growth more or less regardless of concentration, but GA was applied more frequently, leaf growth was inhibited more at higher concentration. Fiber yield was the highest at the treatment of three times application of GA with 100 ppm. This treatment also showed the highest percentage of fiber with 5.3%, which is much higher value compared with that of control treatment with 4.6%. Atonic acid was less effective on stem elongation than GA, but it also seemed to be effective on the enhancement of fiber development.

• KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.470-479
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• 1982

Researches on industrial crops in Korea before 1962 were concentrated on fiber crops such as cotton, kenaf, hemp, ramie and flax. Then research works on oil crops, sugar crops and other high income crops were followed. However, no land is shared for the production of kenaf, flax, sugar beet, sweet sorghum and sunflower at present in Korea, while the cultivation of cotton, hemp, ramie and mat rush is decreasing continuously to the marginal point. At present researches are emphasized on oil crops such as seasame, peanut and perilla and high income medicinal herbs of which cultivating acreages are increasing. Numerous varieties were released as a result of active breeding works on industrial crops since 1962, i.e. 3 sesame varieties including "Suweon 21", 3 peanut varieties including "Seoduntangkong", and 6 rape varieties including "Yudal" in oil crops, one cotton variety "Mokpo 7", one hemp variety "MS4-1", and one kenaf variety "Suweon 2" in fiber crops, and two stevia varieties "Suweon 2" and "Suweon II" in sugar crops. Quality improvement of rape seeds and development of hybrid rapes utilizing male sterile lines are the most significant results of breeding works, while the establishment of vinyl mulching cultivation of sesame and peanut are the most successful results in agronomic researches during the last 20 years.re the most successful results in agronomic researches during the last 20 years.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.817-826
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• 2009

As UV radiation to the earth increased over recent years, many adverse effects of UV radiation have been reported. There are needs to develop UV-protective apparel and accessaries to protect skin from these harmful effects. Cellulose is one of the most frequently worn fiber during summer time. However, celllulose shows very low UV-protective property especially in case of thin and low fabric content. In this study, UV-protective cellulose textiles were developed using chiotsan mordanting and green tea dyeing. The repetition effect of chitosan and green tea treatment were focused. Three different cellulose fibers, cotton, linen, and ramie, were used for this study. All chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed fabrics showed increases in UV-protective property. The color of fabrics tended to darker as the numbers of mordanting process and green tea dyeing increased. UV-protective property did not increase significantly upon the repetition of mordanting and green tea dyeing treatment except ramie fabric. UV protective property was persisted upon washfastness test in all three cellulose fiber types.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.263-268
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• 2011

One-step reduction/dyeing method was applied for ramie dyeing with natural indigo powder. The effect of reduction/dyeing conditions including the pH of bath, dye temperature and time, and concentration of indigo powder and reduction agent on dye uptake and color properties were investigated. Regardless of addition of alkali, the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range(${\lambda}_{max}$: 660 nm) and the dye uptake was much higher with no addition of sodium hydroxide. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at 60 for 30min. Saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 2 g/ L of indigo powder. Whereas, at higher indigo powder concentration (4 g/L), more than 3 g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the saturated dye uptake. Color reproducibility was reliable with color difference in the range of 0.03~0.16. Regardless of color strength, fastness to rubbing was acceptable with a 3/4~4/5. Fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with low color strength were poor. Whereas, fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with high color strength were very good.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.93-104
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics culture of Baekje Period by analyzing the fabrics pieces at a inner part of the It-bronze shoes found at the tomb of King Mu-ryeong in 1971 AD. The analysis methods of the fabrics pieces are a photographing of fabrics pieces surface by VMS, Digital camera(Nikon Coolpix 995) and the analysis of samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. It is assumed this fabrics pieces are the inner shoes, which consisted of compound woven silk at outward, some of tabby and a hemp at inward and the braids for decoration, of the gilt-bronze shoes. The features are as follows. 1. All of compound woven silk are the warp-faced compound tabby of plain fabrics and the density is various from high to low one. Compound woven silk which is attached the gilt-bronze shoes of the tomb of King Mu-ryeong weaves in high density by a thick thread. The fibers material of compound woven silk prove to be a silk by the analysis of wrap samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. 2. Tabby are excavated under the condition which attached on reverse side of compound woven silk. Those ran classify two types. First, the fine weaving by high density of wrap and weft. Second, the loose warp weaving with one warp and some of weft. 3. Hemp is almost ramie by SEM analysis and the density is different. Ramie which supposed to be attached Guem has the very low density. In addition to, Ramie pieces, excavated in condition and weaved finely, proved the conspicuous weaving skill in Baekje period. 4. Various kinds of braid are found and these ones classifies by fiber material and entwining way. Two types out of these are the one of silk thread, decorates the upper, middle parts of compound woven silk shoes and the other of hemp thread, decorates the lower parts.