• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.16-16
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• 2001

Cotton and ramie fabrics were dyed with artemesia and gardenia dyeing solutions. The chroma values of the fabrics dyed with gardenia were higher than that of artemesia. The ramie fabrics dyed with gardenia showed higher chroma values than the cotton fabrics. The colors of fabrics were deeper in shade but their chroma values were improved no more by repetition of dyeing process in artemesia dyebath. The two ways of dyeing processes were carried out. In the first way, each fabric was dyed in 5 different concentration(1∼5%) of gardenia dyebath to get the fabrics dyed in different shades. After then the gardenia dyed fabrics were dyed again in the artemesia dyebaths. In the second way, the 5 fabrics were dyed in different shades by repetition of dyeing process in artemesia dyebath. After then the artemesia dyed fabrics were dyed again with the gardenia dyebaths. When the artemesia dyeing process was added on the fabrics dyed in five shades with gardenia, the color differences between five samples were slight. But when gardenia dyeing process was added on the fabrics dyed in five shades with artemesia, the samples showed different hue of colors between yellow and green of Munsell color circle. Like almost of fabrics dyed with Plants materials, the colorfastness to light and laundering of the dyed samples were poor. But the colorfastness to drycleaning was good.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.817-826
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• 2009

As UV radiation to the earth increased over recent years, many adverse effects of UV radiation have been reported. There are needs to develop UV-protective apparel and accessaries to protect skin from these harmful effects. Cellulose is one of the most frequently worn fiber during summer time. However, celllulose shows very low UV-protective property especially in case of thin and low fabric content. In this study, UV-protective cellulose textiles were developed using chiotsan mordanting and green tea dyeing. The repetition effect of chitosan and green tea treatment were focused. Three different cellulose fibers, cotton, linen, and ramie, were used for this study. All chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed fabrics showed increases in UV-protective property. The color of fabrics tended to darker as the numbers of mordanting process and green tea dyeing increased. UV-protective property did not increase significantly upon the repetition of mordanting and green tea dyeing treatment except ramie fabric. UV protective property was persisted upon washfastness test in all three cellulose fiber types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.51-63
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to identify the best dyeing conditions using onion's outer shell. and to apply to the method in practical daily life. To do this. we extracted quercetin from onion's outer shell and dyed several natural fabrics such as cotton, slack mercerized cotton, ramie. and silk. under the different conditions. Dyed fabrics were Investigated in the aspect of dyeability and colorfastness. The effective conditions for the light-fastness and washing-fastness also have been studied. The results of the experiment were varied with such conditions as temperature. time. pH degree. and treatment and types of mordants. The results are as follows ; 1. Fabrics dyed with onion's outer shell showed excellent dyeability even though there were no mordants, and the silk fabric dyed better than both cotton and ramie fabric. Furthermore, in the cases of repeated dyeing and treatment of mordants using AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ and CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ dyeability of specimen had been improved 2. Cellulose fabrics such as cotton, mercerized cotton and ramie showed the best dyeability under relatively low temperature in the range of 20~4$0^{\circ}C$. On the contrary to cellulose fabric, silk fabric showed the best dyeability under higher dyeing temperature. All fabrics had the higest K/S value at pH 3 regardless of the kind of fiber 3. Dyeing colors varied with the kind of mordants. Colors were turned into yellow in AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ into Yellow-red in CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ , and into green-Yellow in FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. As mordants, AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$, CuSO$_4$,. 5$H_2O$. FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. gallic acid and tartaric acid were used and especially AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ showed the best dyeability and colorfastness in repeated dyeing. Mordants such as AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ made fabrics have better chroma and washing-fastness though the light-fastness was poorer than non mordanting. 4. Repeated dyeing brought us deep color. When fresh dyebath was used each time, the dyeability was increased as the experiment was repeated more. When dyed with used dyebath several times, improved dyeability could not be expected. The optimal using times of the used dyebath was twice.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.140-150
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• 2013

The weaving of Mosi(fine ramie) in the Hansan region was inscribed on the representative list of the UNESCO intangible cultural heritage in 2011. Unlike other fabric, as the Mosi is very sensitive towards humidity it needs different conditions for its workspace. The Hansan region is near the sea with many mountains around where it is easy for the Mosi to grow and is an appropriate place to weave Mosi. Recently the manpower for weaving of Mosi in the Hansan area is decreasing with the decrease of workspace drastically. After the investigation of workspace for the weaving of Mosi in the Hansan area, most of the places were done in individual houses and it could be classified in 1. Mosi storeroom, 2. Shed(Gwang che), 3. Dugout hut, 4. Under the toenmaru The depth of the dugout hut and under the toenmaru is around 80~60cm which is similar with the depth of the prehistoric dugout hut houses. The towns for weaving of Hansan Mosi are formed mostly in the Seochungun district, but the Hoamri Hansan-myeon and Gayangri Masan-myeon has the most traditional workspaces and they are still forming and maintaining the traditional town composition. However the numbers are too small and maintaining the traditional town is getting more difficult, so a plan for the maintenance should be made to continue to keep it as UNESCO intangible cultural heritage.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.89-100
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• 1999

This study was carried to a textile conservation process included washing effect fiber analysis such as fiber identification fabric density and thickness color fading and of extracted soils. the following results were obtained. 1. AS a result of investigating to fabric surfaces by S.E.M all of cleaning methods wet cleaning-solvent cleaning in charge system were effective to remove soils from fabrics. 2. The buried fabrics were made of silk few of them were cotton ramie and hemp. 3. According to fabric density and thickness used fabrics were almost medium weight fabrics. 4. Low values of L, a, b indicated that the colors of these fabrics were faded to yellow and brown. 5. The soil components were hydrocarbon-alkane group alkyl alcohol and ketone group.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.131-142
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• 2008

One of the major fashion trends is the naturalism and ecology-conscious trend. The natural looks required in the trend require somewhat random distribution of yarn linear density, which results in irregular appearance along the yarn. This is a technically challenging work of producing yarns that look natural far from being artificial yet maintaining the intricately aesthetic randomness without causing process disturbances. This study focused on the characteristics of fabrics made of natural cellulosic fibers including hemp, ramie, flax, and polyester fabrics. Image analysis of the fabric samples included area measurement of yarn specimen, FFT and inverse FFT. Measurements of bending resistance, thickness, air permeability, and weight were also implemented to interpret the structural differences.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.61-69
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• 1999

The dyeing experiments were done by using tannin pigments and herbs for natural fabrics such as ramie, hemp and silk. The anti-bacterial ability and color fastness were examined for dyed fabrics. Dye materials containing tannin pigment such as oak tree leaf showed rich dyeing on ramie, hemp, and silk fabrics when the pH of dye solution is lower as well as the dyeing temperature is higher. In crimson dyeing, the colour of fabric showed red-purple when the crimson pigment was extracted at 40$^{\circ}C$, while yellow-red when extracted above 70$^{\circ}C$. The colour fastness of dye materials containing tannin pigment was excellent showing 3~4 grade or above, while most of those derived from chinese medicine showed poor colour fastness of below 3 grade. The anti-bacterial ability of dye materials derived from chinese medicine was high, since the sappan wood fabric showed low bacteria reduction rate.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2009.03a
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• pp.144-145
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• 2009

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.8
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• pp.1161-1169
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• 1999

This research was aimed to identify the artifact type and their characteristics of the textile related materials excavated from Koryo Dynasty tombs of Hyungok-ni Danyang. Microscopy solubility test energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy(EDS) and fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) fabric density test were used for the identification and when necessary standard samples were made in order to compare its characteristics with hose of the original artifact, the result indicated that the artifacts included both textile and paper. Artifacts from Burial 14 were comprised of textile fragments FT-IR and the solubility test conducted on the artifact indicated that the textiles were made with ramie woven with plain weave technique in a fairly loose fabric density. Rest of the artifacts were all comprised of paper.