• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.15 no.5
• /
• pp.823-833
• /
• 2006

The globalization phenomenon of the 21st century has acted as the catalyst to accept diversity, and a new cultural code, ethnic, has emerged in the modem society by the pursuit of diversity throughout the whole society and culture. Unlike preceding studies focusing on ethnic concepts and design development, this study attempted comparative analyses on ethnic trends shown in the collections of two designers, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, who have strong ethnic consciousness. It is considered the comparative analysis on the two designers' collections with ethic images will be a guide to indicate the fashion philosophy of the two designers in the category of Japan, and this will be useful as basic data for the establishment of the globalization identity which is needed in the future fashion industry. The study results are as follows. First, it was found that the ethnic code has been so widely accepted by the world designers in a very positive form to accept foreign cultures that the ethnic code is now showing an aspect of eclecticism. Second, designer Issey Miyake has been pursuing his own ethnic style based on his philosophy to liberate humans through continuous researches and efforts on clothes. Third, Yohji Yamamoto has been pursuing a Japanese ethnic style as a designer who has expressed the unique beauty of Japan from the characteristics of Japanese traditional clothes. Fourth, as a result of comparative analyses on collections, they both have pursued an ethnic style based on the unique national characteristics of Japan, but it was also found that their fashion philosophy has developed differently in the same category of ethnic trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.1
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 2012

This study is aimed at finding out the self-perception and value of clothing they wear to today's businessmen who work in a fast-growing global network society and for developing a suitable image consulting program for businessmen. The purpose of this study is to categorize businessmen into personality types, and then analyzing purchase behaviors for clothing and image perception, self-image satisfaction among categorized groups. The participants of this study are 320 businessmen who are from 20's to 50's and working in Seoul. A total of 302 questionnaires were used for the survey of this study. The questionnaire is composed of 3 different parts as follows: 1) personality types, 2) purchase behaviors for clothing and image perception, 3) self-image satisfaction. The methods of this study are frequency analysis, descriptive analysis, factor analysis, variance analysis, cluster analysis, t-test and reliability analysis. In conclusion, an image consulting education program for businessmen has to be based on one's own personality type, current fashion style and image perception. Each person has to be provided a unique direction to increase his self satisfaction, which will result in improvements in both personal image satisfaction and social satisfaction. These changes will ultimately become the driving force of career life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.7
• /
• pp.41-54
• /
• 2004

This study purposed to apply function form content, the three concepts that have been discussed by many philosophers since ancient times, to fashion design. Specific research goals are : first, to define fashion design based on the three concepts : and second, to examine how each of the three concepts function-oriented, form-oriented and content-oriented design have been expressed in women's fashion in the $20^{th} century. For these purposes. the author considered Morris' semiotics, which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, reviewed previous researches in design area, and applied the findings to fashion design. According to the result of applying the threefold structure of semiotics. which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, the pragmatic dimension of fashion design comprehends all functional rules related to the use of dress such as body motion and protection, health and safety. air flow and durability, and its syntactic dimension comprehend all the formal elements of visual design such as the structure, shape, line, color and material of dress. The semantic dimension of fashion design includes the symbolic meanings of dress expressed by emotion, sentiment and images. The three dimensions exist interdependently with one another. According to the result of considering the characteristics of the three concepts in the scope of women's fashion in the $20^{th} century. function-oriented design is characterized by practicality and simplicity, and has been expressed as the fashion of functionalism in the 1920s, that of minimalism in the 1960s, and the basic style from 1970s to 1980s, 1990s and the present. Form-oriented design has pursued aestheticism, putting stress upon form, and has been expressed with organic shapes imitating patterns found in nature in the 1950s and with optical art fashion in the 1960s. Content-oriented design attaches importance to transmission of delicate meanings related to the mental world of human beings, and is represented with symbolic forms. Such a characteristic has been expressed in fashion in the early 20th century influenced by surrealism and, with various types of design breaking established forms as well as metaphors and humors that characterize design in the late 20th century.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.7 no.2
• /
• pp.75-85
• /
• 2005

This study analyzed the factors of change of women's underwear in the Renaissance, which had a sudden change of shape. First, the spirit of the Renaissance was focused on human-attached importance to glamorous beauty of the body and pursued the glamorous well-proportioned figure as the ideal of the human body. This expressed a woman's beautiful curved lines by reduction of their waist size and emphasis of breast and hip lines. It also created and emphasized one's physical figure, which is a characteristic of sex. Also the materials and size of underwear cleared up the classification of class. Second, through the development of weaving techniques, more textiles were produced, from linen, the most common material used, to silk in underwear and stomacher, and chemise, which was made more splendid be devising elaborate embroidery techniques. Third, as we know that the farthingale was devised in Spain and transmitted to France because of the prevalence of printing and trade, where it changed and developed to more convenient style, this shows that information interchange was active, and we can see the phenomenon that it is developing continually through the prevalence of printing and trade.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.8
• /
• pp.110-124
• /
• 2015

This study examined a phenomenon of exaggerated hairstyle in the history of Western custom through publications related with Western costume and research papers. By adopting the criteria of Delong, M. R. to analyze visual forms shown by interaction between human body and costume worn over the body, it analyzed the formative characteristics by the interaction between hairstyle and costume. In addition, it inferred the aesthetic characteristics through content analysis of examined phenomenon focusing on socio-cultural background and costume socio-psychological precedent studies. Formative characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle applied by analysis criteria of Delong, M. R. were in pursuit of the emphasis style. This was clearly and intensively recognized by forming spaces for mostly closure style, part style, three dimensional style, determinate style, and space separation style. Regarding the interaction between hair and ornamentations, 'precedence of ornamentation' was pursued as ornamentations were recognized earlier than the hair itself. It means associative meanings of the surface effect were accompanied by emotions of 'intensiveness' and the pursuit of the attractive style. As for the interaction between hairstyle and costume, there were many cases of pursuing 'continuity' mutually and visually by connecting the hairstyle and the costume. Aesthetic characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle were inferred as 1) the expression of the sprite of the age(i.e. art, culture, politics, society, ideology, religion), 2) symbols of wealth, class, authority, and excellence, 3) pursuit of addicted desire to ornament, and 4) harmony through continuity with costume. This study verified that hairstyle was connected as a part of costume, or formed as a way to express deeper human psychology beyond just a part of a costume. It was also confirmed that hairstyle was an expressive method to express the spirit of the age, such as art, culture, society, religion, ideology.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.18 no.4 s.62
• /
• pp.195-204
• /
• 2005

This study was peformed to systematize the concept of taste being recognized as new cultural values, as well as to ascertain the looks and aesthetical values presented in modern fashion in terms of taste. Taste is the life style being pursued individually, a preference and the important factor that characterizes each individual among contemporaries. In particular, the fashion is an important means able to differentiate respective tastes. The taste-based looks including; the dandy-look, the kitsch-look, fetish-look, the grotesque-look, and the kidult-look, etc. are reviewed as cases. Those are well expressing the phases of each times. The looks reflecting contemporaries' various tastes, are symbolic means showing the positive expectations on the present and the future. The looks are unifying fashion and society, and the designers are able to be key roles satisfying customer's taste by presenting of their collections. It is expected that the outcome of this study may provide academic basis of the tastes and a framework of interpretation of the tastes and fashion looks within culture by the aesthetical values presented as fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.10
• /
• pp.156-168
• /
• 2007

Brands started to manufacture consumer-oriented products and look for active methods to appeal their brands to consumers, in the 1990s. As a result, actively adopting graphic design to clothing designs has recently become an important strategy among others. Graphic design has important significance in contemporary fashion design in the aspect that it has expanded the range of expressive methods by bringing over expressive methods of visual design, and has led to an increase in sales due to consumer satisfaction, but it has been vaguely handled together with textiles design, and research on the topic has been insufficient. Therefore this study aimed to clearly define the idea of graphic design based on documentary research, and analyze applying case and formative features of graphic design expressed in clothing, through case studies from 2004 to 2006, and derive the trends of graphic design expressed in contemporary fashion design. The results of this study are as follows. The common characteristics of images that reflect recent graphic design trends in fashion design are hand writing and irregular composition, and images that actively pursued these pointes were retro and craft images, and modern and sporty images reflected these graphic design trends in a comparatively passive manner. It is important to maintain style differentiation rather than indiscreetly adopting graphic design trends to clothing, and to appropriately apply trend characteristics of fashion design and other design areas. Expressive methods of design are expected to expand through appropriate application and development of graphic design, and can potentially provide a new solution to brand differentiation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.25 no.5
• /
• pp.611-628
• /
• 2017

As a plan for establishing Korea's cultural identity and its competitive edge in the world market and for enhancing Korea's cultural status, creative and unique high value-added cultural products need to be developed utilizing our inherent cultural assets. Accordingly, this study focused on the development of the design of fashion cultural products that utilize the convergence of Hangeul our peculiar font style and Korea's cultural heritage, which is registered as part of UNESCO's World Heritage. A design method was devised that converges archetypal images of cultural property with the unique Hangeul font in a way that targets Korea's symbolic architectures. The symbolic architecture includes Korea's world-heritage pagoda architecture, such as Seokgatap pagoda and Dabotap pagoda at Bulguksa temple. It also included the architecture of royal palace, such as Injeongjeon hall at Changdeokgung palace. Finally, it also included the architecture of the fortress wall, such as Paldalmun gate in Hwaseong fortress. Thus, by developing cultural assets made from a convergence between architecture and the Hangeul font as a consumer-product image that has universality, the possibility of cultural products was pursued by applying color planning after an analysis that involved extracting the compositional colors of the flags of the world. This research and approach will lead to opportunities for further progress for Korea's cultural products in the global market as a results of additional recognition for their value, excellence, and universal appeal.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.6 s.59
• /
• pp.960-976
• /
• 2005

Classicism pursued beauty comprised of a perfect form, and beauty was perceived as a state of sufficiency. Accordingly, a completed and permanent beauty was sought after; as a result, a perfect and flawless form became the mainstream, and there was an effort to visualize the eternal proportional perfection. In classicism, forms were perfectly embodied with systematic inevitability and absolute inflexibility, by which an extremely clear aspect appeared. This study analyzes a classical construction paradigm in modern fashion according to the five categories: 'Harmony and order by numerical proportion', 'Clear form', 'Simplification of form and two-dimensional Seh-form', 'Completed contracture structure', and 'Pluralistic unification', and the respective formative characteristics are as follows. First, in terms of the formative aspect of modern fashion,'Harmony and order by numerical proportion' results from thorough observance of extreme and golden section (proportion of 5 :8) which was an aesthetic standard of beautiful body in classicism. Second, 'Clear form' appears in clothes as individual clearness of structural elements expressing each part of body, and shows a well-established form possible to be grasped with equal and clear contour line. Third,'Simplification of form and two-dimensional Seh-form' comes out as form composition, single line, single layer structure, two-dimensional form and arrangement of elements of clothes through the front viewpoint caused by 2D diagramming work while fashion-designing and producing. Also, it is seen that two-dimensional proportion which is composed of sections through various harmonious lines and sides according to the simple two-dimensional compatibility principle is accomplished. Fourth, 'Completed contracture structure' emerges as an expression of stationariness, in other words, fixation of an overall impression. This is a tendency that the overall form is grasped as a fixedly intact shape without a big change of the silhouette of clothes. Fifth, 'Pluralistic unification' means that it respectively emphasizes all the parts composing clothes by making them individually independent at the same time as each element is inclusively shown with the harmony of the overall silhouette of clothes and many other details. This study examined classical formative characteristics through a theoretical research on a formative paradigm revealing the classical style. Also, the significance of classical or rational value of art was illuminated by observing what characteristics a classical formation paradigm shows in modern fashion. As a result, classical characteristics in modern fashion prove that classicism is not a merely past construction style separated from the present but a construction paradigm deeply involved in our reason system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.30
• /
• pp.239-259
• /
• 1996

This research is to observe background of origination and process of changing style for men's suits and also to observe the root of aes-thetics which has made the changing style be maintained for nearly 200 years. The aesthetic characteristics are 1)The revival of the Neo-Classicism beauty in the 18th century could be regarded as the root of incipient style of the modern men's suits design. And the cutters recreated ancient nude hero which was an object of envy at that time and also reproduced men's suits through modifying the existed suits to make the ancientnude conform with the sewing regulations in order to describe and convey the perfect image of gender,. 2) The cutter who pursued merit of the classicismic aesthetics in the late 18th cen-tury artistically upgraded English rough country coat to keep pace with Nordic coat style of netherland Russia Germany while in constrast with the coat style mode which was in fashion in France and Italy then And also they changed the English country coat to a noble natural clothing structure in relation to ancient sculpture to keep the English tradition. 3) Im the 18th century Neo-Classicism art emphasized transparent and monochromatic beauty and thus color was limitedly used. In the use of the limited color however ancient aesthetical simple purity was well described within the more realistic outline. In those days the cutter who admired the English neo-Classicism removed color-luster and preferred colorless finished dimly and transparently. And thus color of the men's suits become to be also dim colored in los brightness. This means that it did not express pure beauty but brought such effect of the Classicism beauty that the nude itself was figured out.