• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.19-28
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• 2020

This study investigated the annual frequency and clothing type by extracting puff sleeves designs from overseas fashion collections from S/S and F/W 2017 to S/S and F/W 2019. Specifically, it analyzed production characteristics and pattern methods by the type of puff sleeve design, and found the following: In terms of the percentage of puff sleeves by season, S/S 2019 was the highest. Since Newtro, with a 1990s sensitivity, was the mainstream trend during the S/S 2019, power puff sleeves, a signature of the Newtro style, accounted for the greatest portion of this design feature. In terms of the type of clothes with puff sleeves, 'dress' (54.3%) was the highest, followed by 'shirts/blouse' (27.5%), 'jacket/coat' (12.5%), and 'padded coat/jacket' (5.7%). Specifically, puff sleeve patterns were found mostly in the 'dress' category, more than 47% every season, while the figures were more than 23%, 9.3%, and 2.6% in 'shirts/blouse', 'jacket/coat' and 'padded coat/jacket', respectively. In other words, puff sleeve designs were more common in 'dress' or 'shirts/blouse' than in a 'padded coat/jacket'. In general, the shoulder length is reduced to prevent the shoulders from looking broader because of puffs. In contrast, recent puff-sleeve styles differ from those introduced by modern fashion designers in that they have drop shoulders with puffs attached. Furthermore, as constructive and over-exaggerated sleeve patterns appeared, puffs were applied to diverse sleeve styles including mutton leg and Mameluke styles. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles and serve as the basis for further studies on the configuration methods of puff sleeves. This study will be used in various ways, including as educational material on sleeve patterns. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of puff sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.51-58
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• 1986

This study is to investigate the Function of sleeve for the construction of cuffs. Three measuremental items of sleeve cap high, length of sleeve and puff quantity of upper sleeve cap are compared between when the experimental man raises righthand static pose. The wearing test is done in sewing cuffs of either fixing up cuffs or not-fixing up cuffs, and in no cuffs. Three measuremental items are pulled length from sleeve end, pulled length from side waist line, and pulled dimensions from waist line. 1. The result according to the length and dimensions variation caused by a change of sleeve cap high. 2. The results according to the length and dimensions variation caused by a sort of sleeve length. 3. The results according to the length and dimension variation caused by the puff quantity of sleeve cap.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.82-91
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of visual effects by variations in the shoulder length and puff volume of the puff sleeve blouse. The stimuli are 21 samples: 3 variations of the shoulder length and 7 variations of the puff volume. The data has been obtained from 40 fashion design majors. The data has analyzed by Frequency, Factor Analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe's test and MCA method. The result of the study are as follows. The visual effects by the shoulder length and puff volume are composed of 4 factors : the width of the upper body, the shape of the breast part, the shape of the neck part and the shape of the upper arm. In these factors, the width of the upper body is estimated by most important factor. In view of the visual effects by variation of the shoulder length, the shorter shoulder length goes, the more positive visual image comes in the shape of the breast part. In comparison of the differences of visual effects by the 7 variations of puff volume, the arm looks thin and long when the puff volume goes enough and the breast part has a better visual assesment in case the puff volume goes poor. In the interaction effects between the shoulder length and puff volume, the shoulder length have significant differences in the shape of the breast part, the shape of the neck part and the shape of the upper arm and puff volume has significant difference in the width of the upper body.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.79-89
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences among visual images under variations in shoulder length and puff volume of the puff sleeve blouse. The stimuli are 21 samples: three variations of shoulder length and seven variations of puff volume. The data has been obtained from 40 fashion design majors, where they had been analyzed through frequency, factor analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe's test and MCA method. The results of the study are as the following: As a result, through factor analysis of the visual images according to the variation of shoulder point and puff volume, the following four factors had been identified. Factor 1 is the brightness from evaluation terms such as childish-precocious, cute-mature, bright-genteel, soft-hard, enlarged-reduced, particular-ordinary, interesting- uninteresting, etc. Factor 2 is the attractiveness from evaluation terms such as refine-rustic, stylish-dull, attractive-unattractive, modern-classic, urban-rural, cool-gloomy, spacious-tight. etc. Factor 3 is the comfortness from evaluation terms such as comfort-discomfort, intense-indistinct, etc. Factor 4 is the elegance from evaluation terms such as elegance-shallowness, womanish-manly, etc. These four factors were 66.7% of the total variables. Of the total variables, the first factor had been evaluated as brightness in 26.2%, attractive in 21.0%, comfortness in 11.1%, and elegance in 8.4%. From this study, the more puff volume and shorter shoulder length, the puff volume wrapped the shoulder naturally, thus making the shoulder look narrow, and giving a cute and bright image. However, by having less puff volume and excessively short shoulder length, the puff volume did not naturally wrap the shoulder, which gave an unnatural and unattractive feel.

• 복식
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• 제12권
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• pp.68-86
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• 1988

This paper is described about applied method of personal computer for clothes-patterns. The personal Computer (Fijitsu FM-$16{\beta}$) and X-Y Plotter (GRAPHTEC GP-9101 R) were used in this study. It is studied to draft of sleeve designs automartically in this paper. The Basic Language is used and the programs were main program and subroutine programs. The results are as follows; 1) The Y's system of sleeve sloper is selected in this study. 2) The co-ordinate points were indicated relative location of all necessary in drafting of sleeve designs. 3) In the variations of sleeve sloper, Puff sleeve and Raglan sleeve were selected. Programs for drafting of them were developed. 4) About the drafting of Raglan curve, it is gotten adequate curve using sprine function. 5) Clothes-Pattern are making very correctly and quickly by using computer.

• 복식
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.151-165
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• 2000

This study was to find out clothing design preferences, according to the clothing self-image of elderly women and to grasp the variety on clothing of elderly women and thereby to help in merchandise production planning and putting the brands into markets and to provide data for establishing a sales strategy a d to itemize women with the goods which can satisfy the desire and taste of consumer groups in the quality market. For this purpose , various researches as above were conducted .The object of this study was a total of 488 elderly women above full 55 from an elderly women and who lived in downtown Pusan. The data were analysed by using MANOVA, ANOVA , factors analysis and frequency analysis, and the Cronbach α was also applied . The conclusions made based on the theoretical background and the result of questionnaire surveys are as follows ; 1. The realistic self-image of clothing showed a similar pattern by age. 50's and 60's showed little difference by item but 70's was greater in variation between items compared to 60's. The response to each item was that most people answered "common" and they showed a pattern that responded low only in items of 'colorful' , individualistic', 'susceptible to fashion'. A similar pattern was shown by age band also in the ideal self-image and the response to each item appeared higher than in the realistic self-image , and also in items of 'colorful', 'individualistic ' , 'susceptible to fashion' the response appeared low and showed a unity. 2. The results of clothing design preferences examined on the self-image according to age are as follows ; 1) Fro jacket in the realistic self-image , 50's and 60's preferred 'tailed collar' , 'set-in sleeve', 'hips long' and 'plain jacket' and 70's agreed to the design preferences in the items except 'open collar' and also in the idealistic self-image , the degree of preference was same. 2) For skirt in the realistic self-image , 50's and 60's preferred 'tight skirt', 'normal length' , 'plain skirt' and it was appeared that 70's preferred 'pleat skirt' , 'medium length' , 'plain skirt'. Also in the idealistic self-image , the degree of preference was same. 3) For blouse in the realistic self-image, 50's preferred 'open collar', 'round neck line' , 'long set-in sleeve' , 'plain separation belt', 'open front', 'zipper' ad 60's agreed to the favorite designs with 50's except puff sleeve, and 70's appeared to prefer fastening buttons without belt. In the designs preferred in the idealistic self-image, 50's agreed with 50's of the realistic self-image and for 60's , the designs except puff sleeve type and no belt type agreed to 50's and 70's except puff sleeve agreed with 70's of the realistic self-image in their design preferences.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.62-71
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• 2008

Costume elements are closely related with human living environment and also play an important role in the costume patterns. The East and the West have influenced and adopted each other's culture through mutual trade, which are well reflected in costume patterns and textile patterns. These days world wide fashion shows the designs applying costume details of the East and the West, which is much affected by the orientalism. The purpose of this study is to compare the sleeve patterns which take an important part in women's costume design of the Joseon Dynasty and the European Monarchy in the 16th century. Korean women's costume showed sleeves in rectangular shape with same width and long length, together with cuffs. Later they changed to diagonal shape of getting narrower toward the wrist. Western women's costume showed sleeves with puff and slash patterns. Then they were classified into French, British and Spanish styles which were getting narrower toward the wrist. Later they adopted the shape of leg of mutton which was puffed in middle and narrower toward the wrist. I n Korea and Europe, they showed respective changes in sleeve patterns, but also similarity of getting narrower toward the wrist. The East and the West are now exchanging their culture in every aspect such as politics, economics and social matters. Costume fashion is not an exception. The characteristic designs of traditional costumes are shown on global fashion, which is influenced by the orientalism.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.142-152
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate Spencer jacket of Empire Style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. First, Literature, films and other visual information were utilized in order to classify the designs of Spencer jacket. Second, Production of Spencer jacket using patterns shown in literatures and those commercially used and commercial patterns were investigated to find out design characteristics of jackets. Results and discussions are as follows: The results showed that Spencer jacket can be categorized into following three styles: (1) Jackets having front opening without button stands and standing collar, (2) Double breasted opening and notched collar, (3) Single breasted opening and flat collar with waist band. The characteristics of Spencer jacket design were as follows: (1) Short jacket length, (2) Armhole line moved inwards, (3) Long fit shaped puff sleeves, whose puff being distributed more heavily over back of the sleeve, (4) Diamond shaped back bodice, which are consisted with princess lines and shoulder lines moved backwards.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.661-680
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.85-108
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• 1994

This study intends to provide sources which enable students to satisfy uniform design as I surveyed preferable uniform design and degree of satisfaction of uniform design to students. The subjects were gathered into 91 middle-high schools and surveys were done among 400 school girls. The results are as follows; 1)The survey of uniform which students wear. For jacket, tailored collar which is single breasted is most common and for blouse, puff sleeve, soutein collar, shirt collar is common. For skirt, lastly, they usually wear side pleats skirt. 2) Thoughts of uniform students preferred uniform to casual. The merit of wearing uniform can represent themselves as the ‘students’on the other hand, the demerit is shown that uniform is inconvenient enough to move. 3)Preference of uniform design. Students prefer tailored jacket, shirt blouse, flare skirt. Basing on these results above, I’d like to suggest something about uniform. The demerit of wearing uniform lies in inconvenience. It would weaken the degree of satisfaction of uniform and have a negative influence on students in physical and mental side. So we have to find out the concrete problems, at the same time, develop measurable study which fit for body. Adolescence is period of developing and establishing self. So they really need rather creative educational atmosphere than stereo typed-control. Reflecting this opinion, Clothing habits can play an important role and in future it is desirable to have students wear not uniform but casual.