• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.100-111
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• 2019

In this study, the dyeing properties and functionalities of Crataegi fructus extract were investigated for the purpose of application to new natural dye resources. The effects of dyeing conditions(concentration of dye, dye bath temperature, dyeing duration and dye bath pH) and mordanting on dye uptake and color changes were also examined. The study also estimated the colorfastness, antibacterial properties, and ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed and mordanted silk fabrics. The dye uptake increased in tandem with the dye concentration and dye bath temperature. The highest K/S values were obtained at the following conditions: a dye concentration of 100%(v/v), a dyeing period of 60 minutes, a dye bath temperature of $90^{\circ}C$, and a dyeing pH of 3. The colorfastness of the material when dry cleaned or rubbed ranged from good to excellent and fastness to light was rated at grade 2-3. The change in the color grade when exposed to washing was not good; however, the stain of washing fastness was good at a range of 4-5. In regards to the functional property aspects, the dyed and mordanted fabrics exhibited excellent results with a 99.9% reduction rate, and excellent ultraviolet protection factors.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.669-676
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• 2012

This study aims to compare the properties of natural dye stuffs, such as color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, to analyze the differences noted by expert groups regarding the properties of the stuffs, and to make a positioning of the stuffs. A survey of experts in academia, business, and the art of natural dyeing was conducted, with an evaluation of 23 types of the stuff's properties. There is a correlation between the properties of the stuffs, and evaluating dye stuffs differs according to the group to which it belongs. X-axis relates to color and Y-axis refers to fastness in the positioning of the stuff. There are different relationships between properties according to their group. Color is significantly associated with marketability in art experts however, fastness is closely connected with marketability in business. The stuffs can be divided into five clusters. Cluster I includes indigo and persimmon, and is marked by excellent color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, Cluster II contains safflower and sappan wood, which are excellent colors, yet suffer from low marketability on account of their medium to low fastness. Cluster III includes red, purple, and brown dyes, and onion and rhubarb, and has medium properties. Cluster IV is mugwort and yellow dyes, except onion and rhubarb, and features low properties. Cluster V is loess, featuring medium color and low fastness.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.174-182
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• 2000

We prepared natural indigo/calcium hydroxide complex powder from tinctoria's leaf, according to the demand of developing new dyeing technique of natural fibre with natural indigo. FT- IR and UV/Visible spectra were operated to find the dyeing properties of synthetic indigo and natural indigo powder. Cotton, flax and silk fabrics were dyed with different pH, dye concentration and dyeing time. The colour yield of indigo dye was quite sensitive to dye bath pH and fabric. In synthetic indigo, the highest K/S value of dyed silk fabric was shown at near pH 9.0, and which of flax and cotton fabric were shown at pH 11.0. In other hand, in the case of natural indigo complex powder, the highest K/S value of dyed silk fabric was shown at near pH 8.0, and which of flax and cotton fabric were shown at pH 9.5∼pH 10. Mercerized cotton fabric dyed with natural indigo powder has a little antimicrobial activity.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.255-264
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• 2020

With the development of synthetic dyes, excellent dyeing properties and massive production became possible. On the other hand, natural dyeing technology has gradually disappeared. However, the international environmental and human safety requirements of the apparel and textile industry are increasing, and there is a growing interest in safer and more environmentally friendly products. Accordingly, the public's interest in natural dyeing is increasing. To meet these demands, it is first necessary to clarify the stages of production and distribution of natural dyes. It is necessary to evaluate whether the product is a natural dye product and study the suitability of the natural dye product through qualitative and quantitative assessment of the indicator components of the natural dye. Typical of three natural dyes did qualitative and quantitative analysis by HPLC-DAD and HPLC-MS. Products dyed using natural dye three products were analyzed, and the presence or absence of detection of each indicator components was confirmed to confirm whether the product was dyed using natural dyes.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 2008년도 추계학술대회
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• pp.143-146
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• 2008

The objectives of this study were to evaluate color sensation for yellowish natural dye fabrics using magnitude estimation to determine physical colorimetric factors significantly related to human sensibility by establishing power function in psychophysical analysis. Fourteen different yellowish fabrics dyed with natural colorants were selected as stimuli and subjective color sensations including brightness, heaviness, softness, strength, warmth, activeness, classicalness, femininity, and pleasantness for each stimulus were evaluated. As results, yellowish natural dye fabrics in general seemed to evoke feeling of brightness, femininity, and pleasantness more strongly than that of heaviness and classicalness. Most of color sensation were significantly related with more than one of physical color properties, which leads to establishing reliable power functions between them. In the power functions, these relationships could be utilized to design color-sensible natural dye textiles.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.23-31
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• 2001

To improve the dyeability and colorfastness of cotton and silk fabric dyed with natural dye of safflower, cotton and silk fabrics were pre-treated with different mordants such as halliic-acid, alum, brine and tannic-acid. Also, to investigate the effect of finishing treatment of fabrics on dyeability, cotton was treated with chitosan and mercerized before dyeing. L, a, b, ΔE and colorfastness(light, Laundry, sweat) of each samples were measured and compared. Mordant treatment didn't improved significantly dyeability and colorfastness on cotton and silk. But, on cotton mercerization and chitosan treatment improved dyeability and colorfastness. To compare the efficiency of extracted dye and Powered dye, extracted red dye of safflower prepared as powder. Cotton and silk were dyed with dyeing solution which made with powdered dye according to different concentration. Efficiency of powdered dye was found out lower than extracted dye solution.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권1호
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• pp.132-146
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• 2022

To explore the potential use of Ecklonia cava as a natural dye for textiles, silk fabric was dyed with Ecklonia cava extracted by hot water under varied conditions, including temperature, duration, dye concentration, mordanting, and pH adjustment. The fabric was also evaluated for fastness, sun-protective property, and deodorization. Ecklonia cava extract was estimated by FT-IR to have polyphenol as a main functional colorant in plants, while the existence of phlorotannins through the UV-spectrum method was also confirmed. The fabric was optimized for maximum dye uptake at a temperature of 80℃ for a duration of 50 minutes along all dye concentrations. The dyed fabric showed a hue of Yellow Red under all dyeing conditions while additional color tones, such as grayish and dark, were generated through mordanting and pH adjustment. Both good sun-protective properties and a positive deodorization rate were also recorded, with more than 20% (owf) Ecklonia cava extract on silk fabric. These results imply that Ecklonia cava has great potential to be used as an eco-friendly natural dye and in fashion goods with skin-health functions made of silk.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권8호
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• pp.1484-1492
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• 2001

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dye, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Lithodpermum officinale were studied. Appropriate extraction, dveing and mordanting conditions of Lithodpermum officinale were determined, and the effect of mordanting no dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbances of Lithopermum officinale solution were at 521 and 561 mn, shikonin solution were 517 and 556 mn. According to the UV-VIS spectroscopy of shikonin solution showed batho chromic shift with the increase of temperature and the absorbance of shikonin solution increased with the increase of temperature. The color of Lithodpermum officinale solution was affected by pH 8∼9, they became dark, reduced reddish and bluish. The optimum conditions for extraction from Lithodpermum officinale were at 80$\^{C}$ and for 1 hour and at 25$\^{C}$ for 24 hours. And effective dyeing conditions with silk fabric were temperature at 80∼100$\^{C}$ and period for 60min. K/S value and color fastness of dyed fabrics were increased by mordanting treatment. In the case of Lithodpermum officinale light fastness was better than Sophora japonica, Gaesalpinia Sappan, Rhusjara,. Cochineal dyeing fabrics. Perspiration fastness of Lithodpermum officinale were good. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good these fastness improvement were generatlly effected by post-mordanting treatment.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.777-787
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• 2016

This study was carried out in order to provide useful data for planning fabrics of summer eco-friendly fashion products. The fabrics used in this study were four cellulose fibers: cotton, cotton/mulberry blended, flax, and flax/lyocell blended. Dyeing with natural indigo was carried out under three different reducing conditions (i.e., general, eclectic, and eco-friendly) that have different reducing agent and pH levels, and hydrosulfite and glucose were used as a reducing agent. The dye uptake (K/S value) of fabrics dyed with natural indigo by a reducing condition was the highest at 660nm. Regardless of the fabrics, dye uptake was the highest under the general reducing condition and the lowest under the eco-friendly reducing condition. Under different reducing conditions, the dye uptake of natural indigo fabrics with the maximum absorption wavelength indicated a difference. The colorfastness of cellulose fabrics that were dyed with natural indigo had a rate of 4 to 5 except for rubbing fastness, which indicated good colorfastness. Additionally, natural indigo-dyed cotton and flax fabrics had good antibiosis. When the color characteristics of fabrics dyed with natural indigo were measured, all of the three reducing conditions created purple blue (PB) colors, and the color characteristics of dyed fabrics by reducing condition and fabric showed significant differences.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.142-148
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• 2015

The aim of this study was to investigate the possibility utilizing Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone as a new natural dye resource. Dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out to study the effect of dyeing conditions and mordanting effect on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness. FT-IR analysis supported that hydrolyzable tannins were contained in the extracted colorant. Metasequoia cone colorant showed low affinity to cotton fiber and maximum dye uptake was obtained at pH 3.5 showing YR Munsell color. Mordanting improved dye uptake regardless of mordant type, especially Fe($C_5H_{10}FeO_6$) mordant was effective as much as 2 times higher dye uptake comparing with un-mordanted sample. The color of dyed fabric with mordanting showed YR Munsell color except of the Fe($FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_2O$) mordanted sample showing Y Munsell color. Colorfastness to rubbing and washing was relatively good, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics was above grade 3/4 except that the dyed samples with Fe mordanting showed grade 2. It is necessary to apply Metasequoia cone colorant onto other fibers, especially protein fibers, for evaluating its efficacy as a new natural dye resource.