• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.142-152
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate Spencer jacket of Empire Style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. First, Literature, films and other visual information were utilized in order to classify the designs of Spencer jacket. Second, Production of Spencer jacket using patterns shown in literatures and those commercially used and commercial patterns were investigated to find out design characteristics of jackets. Results and discussions are as follows: The results showed that Spencer jacket can be categorized into following three styles: (1) Jackets having front opening without button stands and standing collar, (2) Double breasted opening and notched collar, (3) Single breasted opening and flat collar with waist band. The characteristics of Spencer jacket design were as follows: (1) Short jacket length, (2) Armhole line moved inwards, (3) Long fit shaped puff sleeves, whose puff being distributed more heavily over back of the sleeve, (4) Diamond shaped back bodice, which are consisted with princess lines and shoulder lines moved backwards.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제48권2호
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• pp.382-396
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• 2024

"Keunmeori", the grand headdress with various decorations attached to thickly braided and raised hair has been used as a bride's formal attire since the Joseon Dynasty, and in the modern period, new styles known as goegye and hyuche appeared as formal attire for civil weddings. Goegye was formed from a round wooden pillar wrapped with hair and decorated richly with ornaments; getting married with goegye meant that the wife was officially married. Hyuche was made by braiding the hair into two long plaits and decorating it with colorful fluttering hairpins and gold leaf hair ribbons. Hyuche was originally formal attire for a princess at her wedding, and it is thought to have been less frequently used in the private sector due to its higher cost than goegye. The style of goegye appears to have been influenced by the susik, the highest formal attire for a queen, and in particular, the decorations on the circular top part of the susik were presumed to have been similarly reproduced in folk weddings. Goegye changed in various aspects according to the social environment and atmosphere of the times, and was also used as formal attire for a prince's wife.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.117-130
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• 2010

The four walls of mural paintings in Afrasiab, Samarkand, have discovered: the indian-concept east wall, the west with the paintings of envoys from a number of countries bringing in King's letters or gifts, the south describing traditional ceremony celebrating the new year, the north with a picture of a Chinese princess on board beside hunting scenes. Overall, Sogdians in Afrasiab mural paintings of 7th century had following costume codes: a very short haircut or the Turkic queue, a rather-narrow-sleeved caftan with round-neck, a belt and boots. The west wall showed various costume style of a set of envoys from countries. First, a Turkic envoy had 3-6 rows of long plaits, wearing a caftan with two lapels and a belt - interestingly, Sogdian and Turkic nobles didn't wear pochettes. Second, a Chaganiyan had a hairband on his short hair, and his colorful round-neck caftan is decorated with animal-patterned medallions and a golden belt. Third, a Chach wore a jewelled hairband, putting gaiters on his pants. Forth, a Chinese was in putou with a round-neck caftan, and with a belt and sword around his waist. Lastly, also appeared a Koguryo envoy in white putou with a double-bird-feathered crown on top, wearing a long-sleeved yellow v-neck top, a belt, narrow-cuffed pants and boots. Identical to the Sogdian statues excavated in various regions of China are the appearance of big eyes and nose -similar to the warrior stone in Korea- a hairband, and a pochette down from the waist line. During this period, white and red were considered as prevailing colors for clothing: red and yellow among Turks. The costumes of characters in Afrasiab mural paintings were preferably made with the animal-patterned, sophiscated samite Zandanachi of Sogdiana.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.48-64
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.90-107
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• 2007

Modernization movement has affected classical operas. Today, classical operas are often re-interpreted from the modern perspective and played differently only with the storyline maintained. Also, operas are increasingly performed outside traditional theaters as the boundaries between stage and audience become less obvious. Accordingly, stage costumes are being differently designed than before. New attempts are being made to look costumes in a harmony with increasingly streamlined stage machinery. This helps increase public attention on operas, consequently promoting the opera industry. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust," which was played in Sungnam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the crowd are drawn from this study. A variety of splendid pink dresses, ribbons, dolls, hand mirror, and hair bands were used to express haughty girls with "Princess Syndrome." Fashion models, the envy of all woman, wore fashionable clothes including luxury dresses, fur-coats, high heels, purses, and hats, Models also had big shopping bags and gift boxes to symbolize shopping lovers in a modern society. Gay men wore tight leather trousers and vest and sleeves shirts with deeply cut neckline to express their preference for feminie style. their clothes were splendid colors that normally women liked such as gold, purple, light green, scarlet, and silver. Soldiers were in combat uniform representing their participation in the war. In particular, clothes stained with dirt, iron helmet, crutches, and canteens were used to vividly express soldiers coming back home from the war. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency, and meet the audience's needs for various style.

• Asian Pacific Journal of Cancer Prevention
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• 제14권9호
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• pp.5421-5425
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• 2013

Background: To assess the antioxidant effects of gamma-oryzanol on human prostate cancer cells. Materials and Methods: Cytotoxic activity of gamma-oryzanol on human DU145 and PC3 prostate cancer cells was determined by proliferation assay using 3-(4, 5-dimethylthiazol, 2-yl)-2, 5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide (MTT) reagent. mRNA levels of genes involved in the intracellular antioxidant system, superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), glutathione peroxidase (GPX) and glutathione reductase (GSR) were determined by reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR). Cancer cell lysates were used to measure lipid peroxidation using thiobarbituric acid reactive substance (TBARS). Glutathione contents of the cell lysates were estimated by the reaction between sulfhydryl group of 5, 5'-dithio (bis) nitrobenzoic acid (DTNB) to produce a yellow-color of 5-thio-2-nitrobenzoic acid using colorimetric assay. Catalase activity was also analysed by examining peroxidative function. Protein concentration was estimated by Bradford's assay. Results: All concentrations of gamma-oryzanol, 0.1-2.0mg/ml, significantly inhibited cell growth in a dose- and time-dependent fashion in both prostate cancer cell lines, DU145 and PC3. Gene expression of catalase in DU145 and PC3 exposed to gamma-orizanol at 0.5mg/ml for 14 days was down regulated, while mRNA of GPX was also down regulated in PC3. The MDA and glutathione levels including catalase activity in the cell lysates of DU145 and PC3 treated with gamma-oryzanol 0.1 and 0.5mg/ml were generally decreased. Conclusions: This study highlighted effects of gamma-oryzanol via the down-regulation of antioxidant genes, catalase and GPX, not cytotoxic roles. This might be interesting for adjuvant chemotherapy to make prostate cancer cells more sensitive to free radicals. It might be useful for the reduction of cytotoxic agents and cancer chemoprevention.