• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.70-78
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• 2022

The objective of this study was to assess the effect of preventing pigmentation caused by external stimuli, promoting skin regeneration and whitening of the skin composition containing complex extract of Dendrobii Caulis and Centella asiatica (CE). We evaluated cell viability, tyrosinase and melanin inhibition activity, skin irritation test, and skin moisturizing and regenerative effects using CE. As a result of the tyrosinase inhibitory activity, 100 ㎍/mL CE (35.31%) showed higher value than kojic acid (21.32%). The results of melanin synthesis inhibition in B16F10 melanoma cells after treatment with α-melanocyte stimulating hormone showed a similar level of activity to that of arbutin, indicating an excellent whitening effect. In clinical test of the skin composition containing CE, we confirmed that CE is non-irritated in human skin primary irritation test as well as have a high skin moisturizing and regenerative effect. From these results, we suggested the CE not only prevents skin damage and pigmentation caused by external stimuli but has remarkable skin brightening activity and skin regeneration effect.

• Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.384-395
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• 2018

The aim of this study was to investigate whether a novel formulation of an herbal extracts has an inhibitory effect on obesity. To determine its anti-obesity effects, we performed anti-obesity-related experiments in vitro and in vivo. Thus, our present study was carried out to evaluate the anti-obesity effect of herbal extracts using a high fat diet (HFD)-induced obese mouse model and 3T3-L1 adipose cells. The effects of each herbal extracts on lipid accumulation in 3T3-L1 cells were examined using Oil Red O staining. Results showed that treatment with each herbal extracts at $10{\sim}100{\mu}g/ml$ had no effect on cell morphology and viability. Without evidence of toxicity, herbal extracts treatment decreased lipid accumulation compared with the untreated adipocytes controls as shown by the lower absorbance of Oil Red O stain. Futhermore, compared with control-differentiated mature adipocytes, each herbal extracts significantly inhibited lipid accumulation in mature 3T3-L1 adipocytes. In the HFD-fed obese mice, body weight, liver weight and white adipose tissue weights were significantly reduced by mixture of herbal extracts administration in mouse skin. Futhermore, we found that mixture of herbal extracts administration suppressed serum triglyceride (TG), and total cholesterol (TCHO) in HFD-induced obese mouse model. The mixture of herbal extracts of permeability was estimated by measuring the transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) value in pig skin. The optimized formulations of herbal extracts (Test 3 formulation) showed skin permeation. However, test 1 formulation containing essential oil as enhancer showed maximum skin permeation. After confirming the enhanced skin permeability, in vivo studies were performed to assess whether skin irritation potential on the basis of a primary irritation index (PII) in rabbit skin. Reactions were scored for erythema/edema reactions at 24 h, 48 h and 72 h post-application. It was concluded that the test 1 formulation was not irritation (PII = 0). The present study suggests that the test 1 formulation might be of therapeutic interest with respect to the treatment of obesity.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.64-80
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• 1991

The SKINTEX Method is based on a two-compartment physico-chemical model which includes a Biomembrane Barrier in compartment one and an organized macromolecular matrix in compartment two. Test samples absorb onto or permeate through the keratin/collagen Biomembrane Barrier and then can interact with the organized macromolecular matrix. Changes in the integrity of the barrier release a dye indicator: Changes in the matrix can alter its transparency. The sum of these two responses is read spectrophotometrically at 470nm. An early investigation of 950 chemicals and formulations in the SKINTEX System produced results which were 89% concordance to in vivo Draize dermal irritation results obtained with 24-hour occluded application of test samples with-out abrasion and standard scoring. Alkaline materials were analyzed in a specialized SKINTEX AMA Protocol. In this early study, the model did not distinguish nonirritant test materials and formulation with PDII(Primary Dermal Irritation Index)in the range from 0 to 1.2, A High Sensitivity Assay Protocol(HSA)was developed to amplify the changes in both compartments of this model and provide more accurate calibration of these changes. A study of 60 low irritation test samples including cosmetics, household products, chemicals and petro-chemicals distinguished nonirritants with PDII $\leq$ 0.7 for 26 of 30 nonirritants. A second protocol was developed to evaluate the SKINTEX model predictability with respect to human irritation. The Human Response Assay (HRA )has been optimized based on differences in penetration and irritation responses in humans and rabbits. An additional 32 test materials with different mechanisms and degrees of dermal toxicity were evaluated by the HRA. These in vitro results were 86% concordant to human patch test results. In order to further evaluate this model, a Standard Chemical Labelling (SCL) Protocol was developed to optimize this system to predict Draize dermal irritation results after a 4-hour application of the test material. In a study of 52 chemicals including acids, bases, solvents, salts, surfactants and preservatives, the SCL results demonstrated 85% concordance to Draize results for a 4-hour application of test samples on non-abraded rabbit skin. The SKINTEX System, including three specialized protocols, provided results which demonstrated good correlation to the endpoint of dermal irritation in man and rabbits at different application times.

• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.37 no.1 s.144
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• pp.16-20
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• 2006

The protective effects of the aqueous MeOH extracts of stem and root Acanthopanax koreanum Nakai against oxidative stress were investigated. Anti-oxidant activity of the stem extract of A. koreanum was observed in the DPPH free radical scavenging $(IC_{50}=58.7\;{\mu}g/ml)$ and the SOD test $(IC_{50}=17.52\;{\mu}g/ml)$. According to data analysis of cell survival ratio of normal fibroblasts, the skin irritation by both extracts from A. koreanum was concerned. However, in the skin primary parch test, both extracts obtained Grade I, which means that there was no skin irritation. After induction of oxidative irritation, cell survival ratio of normal fibroblasts was also monitored and it turned out that stress-inducing group with both extracts had more increased cell survival ratio. The cell extension of the stress-inducing group treated with the stem extract was most dominant in morphological study. Based on these results, the stem extract of A. koreanum showed the protective effect against oxidative stress on normal fibroblast.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.25 no.4 s.34
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• pp.145-154
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• 1999

A novel retinol derivative, polyethoxylated retinamide(Medimin A) was synthesized, as an anti-aging agent. Collagen synthesis, skin permeation, stability, and toxicity of Medimin A were evaluated and compared with those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. In vitro collagen synthesis was evaluated by quantitative assay of $[^3H]-proline$ incorporation into collagenase sensitive protein in fibroblast cultures. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells(effective diffusion area: 1,766 $cm^2$) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used, The stabilities of retinoids were evaluated at two different temperature($25^{\circ}C\;and\;40^{\circ}C$) and under UV in solubilized state and in O/W emulsion. To estimate the safety, acute oral toxicity, acute dermal toxicity, primary skin irritation, acute eye irritation and human patch test were performed. The effect of Medimin A on collagen synthesis was similar to that of retinol. The skin permeability of Medimin A was higher than those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. The Medimin A was more stable than retinol and retinyl palmitate. Medimin A was nontoxic in various toxicological tests. These results suggest that Medimin A would be a good anti-aging agent for enhancing bioavailability and stability.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.43-49
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• 2005

Recently, according as people who have sensitive skin increase, we've been giving more importance to the safety of cosmetics. Especially, preservative is known to be one of the main stimuli which cause side-effects of cosmetics. However, there have been few reports describing cell cytotoxicity, skin penetration, oil-aqueous phase partition, anti-microbial activity of preservatives and their correlation with skin irritation. The study is aimed to develop low irritable preservative system with phenoxyethanol, one of the most commonly used preservatives in cosmetics, considering various factors mentioned above. According to our results of cell cytotoxicity against human normal fibroblasts by means of MTT assay, phenoxyethanol showed the lowest cytotoxicity when compared to other preservatives tested (cytotoxicity: pro-pylparaben > butylparaben > ethylparaben > methylparaben > triclosan > phenoxyethanol), but human patch test for assessing shin primary irritation revealed that phenoxyethanol has higher skin irritation than methylparaben and triclosan. We performed in vitro skin penetration test using horizontal Franz diffusion cells with skin membrane prepared from hairless mouse (5 ${\~}$ 8 weeks, male) to evaluate the rate of skin penetration of preservatives. From the results, we found that the higher irritable property of phenoxyethanol in human skin correlates with its predominant permeability (skin penetration: phenoxyethanol > methylparaben > ethylparaben > propylparaben > butylfaraben > triclosan). Therefore, we made an effort to reduce skin permeability of phenoxyethanol and found that not only the rate of skin penetration of phenoxyethanol but also its skin irritation is dramatically reduced in formulas containing oils with low polarity. In the experiments to investigate the effect of oil polarity on the oil-aqueous phase partition of phenoxyethanol, more than $70\%$ of phenoxyethanol was partitioned in aqueous phase in formulas containing oils with low polarity, while about $70 {\~} 90\%$ of phenoxyethanol was partitioned in oil phase in formulas containing oils with high polarity. Also, in aqueous phase phenoxyethanol showed greater anti-microbial activity. Conclusively, it appears that we can develop less toxic preservative system with reduced use dosage of phenox-yethanol and its skin penetration by changing oil composition in formulas.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.4 s.59
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• pp.257-261
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• 2006

The aim of this study is to assess the anti-irritation activities of Rheum undulatum L. extract against various irritants. In order to investigate the anti-inflammation effects of Rheum undulatum L. extract on keratinocytes, we measured the quantities of interleukin 8 (IL-8) and tumor necrosis factor ${\alpha}$(TNF ${\alpha}$) secreted by cultured human keratinocytes. As the results, Rheum undulatum L. extract inhibited the secretion of these cytokines dosage-dependently. We also investigated the anti-inflammation effects of Rheum undulatum L. extract against irritant skin reactions induced by 3 mM Methyl nicotinate. The flush was significantly decreased by application of O/W emulsion containing Rheum undulatum L. extract. In the primary irritation test, when Rheum undulatum L. extract was included in O/W emulsion containing 5.0% lactic acid, its considerable anti-irritation effect was revealed. In a in-use test, we confirmed the excellent anti-irritation effect of O/W emulsion containing Rheum undulatum L. extract.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.184-191
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• 2003

New pyranone derivative, 2-((3E)-4(2H, 3H, -benzo[3, 4-d] 1, 3-dioxolan-5-yl)-2-oxo-but-3-enyloxy)-5-hydroxy-4H-pyran-4-one (Seletinoid $G^{TM}$), was designed as a novel retinoid on the assumption that the pyranone ring may mimic the carboxylic acid moiety in retinoid structure. The enolic hydroxy of pyranone at five position was easily deprotonated to form an enolate. The role of enolate was similar to that of carboxylic acid. To evaluate the value of Seletinoid G as an anti-aging ingredient, various tests were performed for example inhibitory effect for MMP-l expression, anti-oxidative activity, procollagen synthesis in hairless mouse and primary skin irritation. The result of this study suggested that our new synthetic retinoid could be used as a safe material for anti-aging cosmetics.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.35-40
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• 2002

We prepared a novel dosage form, peel-off type soft hydrogel using poly(vinyl alcohol), and evaluated the effect of skin penetration enhancer on the indomethacin release from soft hydrogel by in vitro permeation and in vivo absorption test. In this study, we used four enhancers-urea, dimethyl urea, 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl urea, and pirotiodecane (1-[2(decylthio)ethyl]azacyclopentane-2-one, $HPE-101^{circledR}$). In addition, we evaluated the primary skin irritation test of soft hydrogel using rabbit. From these results, we could find the pirotiodecane was a prominent enhancer, and soft hydrogel seemed to be safe and have no irritancy.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.67-83
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• 1995

Skin irritations accompany the series of complex, physical and chemical changes. Alternative methods which reflect the biological phenomenon more sensitively are necessary for the purpose of reducing the animal tests and improving the accuracy and reliability. Chorioallantoic membrane (CAM) vascular assay is a in vitro method which utilizes the chorioallantoic membrane of hen's fertilized egg of about 10 days old. Test substances are placed directly onto the surface of the CAM and 1 hour later the CAM vasculature is subjectively evaluated to determine with a chemically related-injurious reponse including the appearance of haemorrage, congestion, coagulation, and so on. In this research, using the various surfactants, the correlations of CAMVA with in vivo models (intradermal safety test and human primary irritation test) were investigated. And CAMVA closely correlated to intradermal safety test (r=0.89) and human primary irritation test (r=0.90). From the result, it seems that CAMVA can also be used as a method for predicting the skin irritaions.