• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.393-400
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• 2010

This study examines the mordanting effect and multi functional properties of silk fabrics dyed with onion shell extracts that were mordanted with gallnut. The contents of this study are as follows. First, the optimum dyeing conditions were investigated by measuring the K/S value that depended the on dyeing conditions when silk fabrics were dyed with onion shell extracts. Second, the color, brightness, and chroma differences that appear after mordanting with gallnut were investigated by measuring the K/S and Munsell value. Third, the color fastness and antimicrobial activity were measured. When silk fabrics were dyed with onion shell extracts, the optimum dyeing conditions were a dyeing temperature of $70^{\circ}C$, a dyeing concentration of 160%, and a dyeing of time 30min. After mordanting with gallnut extracts, the K/S value increased remarkably and was larger in pre-mordanting than post-mordanting. The H value displayed yellow-red in all cases of pre and post mordanting. However, the H value was more reddish in the order of non-mordanting

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.45-61
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• 2015

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used Al mordant agent and greenish yellow color by Fe mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by Fe mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by Al pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by Al pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.77-86
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• 2016

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by Munsell's value, and compared the difference of colors which were recognized visually. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used aluminum mordant agent and greenish yellow color by ferric mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by ferric mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by aluminum pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by aluminum pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color. However the color, which was recognized visually, differed from colorimeter sometimes. Therefore, such color table might be necessary for the natural dyeing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.92-101
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• 2007

This research was carried out following the preceding research on natural cellulose fabrics dyed with extract of fresh african marigold petals. Dyeability on fabrics was tested by dyeing with wool and silk which are natural protein fibers. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants, examining the changes in the surface color, K/S value, and maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. Wool fabrics showed color tone of medium or less saturation and brightness, in dark yellow color series. An orange color of high saturation was only obtained by tin mordanting. Wool showed higher K/S value than cellulose fibers. In summary, marigold dye has more affinity for protein fibers. It showed better dye effect in wool than silk. The chitosan pre-treatment and pre-mordanting lowered the K/S value of wool, which showed that chitosan pre-treatment does not improve dye uptake. However, different from the dyeing carried out by pre-mordanting without pre-treatment with chitosan, more diversified colors could be obtained by mordants. Therefore, for the dyeing natural protein fibers with marigold extract, post-mordanting does not require chitosan pre-treatment. However, pre-mordanting with chitosan pre-treatment could implement diverse colors. Considering its dyeing behaviors which are similar in both natural cellulose and protein fibers, african marigold extracts can be evaluated as a stable and highly practical dye.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 2010

To investigate natural dyeing properties of bast fiber, properties of pre mordanting dyeing of sappan wood, gardenia and gallnut such as K/S values, developed color, and fastness were evaluated. Silk showed the most increased K/S values by pre mordanting treatment when Fe was uses as a mordant. The optimized amount of Fe was 3%. The colors of sappan wood was a series of YR. After pre mordanting treatment with Fe, the colors of bast fiber of mulberry and silk showed a series of RP, and the color of cotton showed a series of Y. The color of gallnut was a series of Y regardless of pre mordant treatment. Sappon wood (YR), gardenia (Y), and gallnut (Y) showed various colors such as YR, R, and RP, respectively. Sunlight fastness was not improved by pre mordanting treatment. The effect of pre mordanting treatment was not good. Especially the treatment with Al showed poor sunlight fastness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-9
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• 1994

In order to study the effect of mordanting on silk fabrics treated with tannin, those fabrics were treated with Al, Cu, Cr, Fe, Sn by pre and post mordanting. It was studied about color change, weighting effect, dgree of photodegradation by pre and post mordanting. The results are as fallows ; 1. On the addition of mordants into mimosa and tannic acid solution, &{\lambda}_{max}& of the former was slightly blue-shifted, on the other hand, &{\lambda}_{max}& of the latter was obviously Red-shifted. 2. In case of Cu, Cr, Pre mordanting, weighting effect were appeared. Weighting effect of silk fabrics treated with Tannic acid increased higher than mimosa by mordanting. 3. In color change, Silk fabrics treated with Mimosa and Tannic acid generally changed to red direction and fabrics treated with tannic acid changed to yellow direction by pre and post mordanting. 4. In the photodegradation, the degree of photodegradation on mordanted fabrics increased. Its degree was slack in Cu, Cr, Post mordanting. On the other hand, Al, Fe, Sn were greate. Silk fabrics treated with Mimosa and Tannic acid got inhibiting effect on photodegradation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.66-74
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• 2003

This study is to improve the worst lightfastness of a natural dye. To modify the fiber surface, low temperature oxygen plasma was carried out on silk fabric. The result is followed below after the examination of surface shape, dyeability, color change, UV absorbent influence and lightfastness. 1. When electric discharge outputs are 60W, 80W and 100w, and processing times are 10minutes, 20minutes and 40minutes, the etching effect of surface increased as electric discharge outputs and processing times increased. 2. When examined UV absorbent for 5hours, 10hours, 20hours, 40hours and 80hours, the value changes of E are 1.47, 2.51, 2.91, 3.71, 4.51 and 5.31 in case of Al pre-mordanting/ prasma 80W, 20min./ UVabsorbent 5% (100:1), 2.31, 2.47, 3.84, 3.90, 3.61 and 4.42 in case of Al pre-mordanting/prasma 80W, 20min.1 UV absorbent 5% (o.w.f.). The lightfastness decreased when UV absorbent increased. 3. Dyeability of the samples pre-treated with five different methods was in the following order: plasma processing for 20minutes at 60W/Al pre-mordanting > Al pre-mordanting > plasma processing for 20minutes at 60W > Al after-mordanting. non mordanting Plasma treatment had superior effect on dyeability. 4. When UV absorbent was applied in fabric, the sample under higher electric discharge out puts showed more effective in improving lightfastness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.109-119
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Caseaslpinia Sappan, L. and Brazilin were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye up-take adn color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. solution was 445nm, Brazilin was 448nm. The color of bazilin solution was affected by pH 7~9. The optimum temperature to extract Caesalpinia Sappan, L. was 10$0^{\circ}C$ adn dyeing solution for 1 hour. In case mordants concentration, the most absorbance was 0.3%. In case mordanting test, the best and proper temperature to quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was 8$0^{\circ}C$ and the most quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was mordant treatment by Cu. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 8$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treat-ment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. After soaping treatment K/S value of pre- and post-mordanting silk was decreased and 0.1%(W/V) quantity of mordant was sufficient for treatment. In the case of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. fastness was increased by mordanting treatment. Mordants and mordanting treatment method affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed silk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.19-27
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• 2002

This paper surveys the mordanting and dyeing properties of Sophora japonica L. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Sophora japonica L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Sophora japonica L. solution was 367.6mn, rutin solution was 365.6mn. The color of Sophora japonica L. solution was affected at pH 2 and pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Sophora japonica L. was during 1 hour in 8$0^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 10$0^{\circ}C$, 60min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was increased by pre-mordanting treatment, especially Fe, Sn, Cr. In the case of Sophora japonica L. light fastness was increased by Fe mordanting. Perspiration fastness was better in acidic solution than that in alkaline solution. Fastness to rubbing and dry-cleaning were good in general.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.100-106
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• 2012

This research was carried out to find the mordant effect of Chestnut's inner skin on the cow leather dyed by Turmeric powder. The best proper mordanting conditions were examined by changing mordant method, concentration, temperature, bath ratio, time, and repetition. Also dyeability and surface color changes were evaluated by various mordanting methods. The optimum mordanting conditions of chestnut's inner skin extract on the cow leather were pre mordant, 80%, $50^{\circ}C$, 50:1, 40minutes, 4 repetition. The K/S values as a mordant were higher in pre mordant than post mordanting condition. Although the ${\Delta}E$ was slightly higher in post mordant than pre mordant, it was too small to find any means. The surface colors of all dyed cow leathers were yellow. Among light, dry cleaning, and abrasion fastnesses, only light fastness was increased one degree, others were same degrees.