• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.102-117
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• 2008

This study shows the badge system for military officials of Joseon dynasty. The badge system for military officials of the 15th century consists of rank badges with tiger and leopard for the first and second ranks and rank badges with bear for the third rank. According to the code of laws, military officials are supposed to wear the rank badges with four different kinds of animals in Joseon dynasty. However, the badge system shown in the code of laws sometimes does not match with the badges in practices. Based on the literature, remaining badges and the badges in portraits, six different kinds of badges with animals are found : First, rank badges with tiger and leopard were used until the late 16th century. Second, rank badges with tiger were found in the period between the early 17th century and the latter 18th century. Third, rank badges with Haechi were found in the early 17th century. Fourth, rank badges with lions can be found in remains of the mid 17th century, the literature and the portrait of the late 18th century. Finally, the rank badges with double leopards or with single leopard were found from a portrait dated the late of 18th century to the last period of Joseon dynasty.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.89-100
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• 2016

We estimated pigments and painting techniques with nondestructive analysis for Yu Eonho's portrait made in the eighteenth century, then compared with 11 portraits and painting characteristics at that time. The pigments used to Yu Eon-ho's portrait include lead white, yellow dye, cinnabar, minium, and pink dye, malachite, azurite, iron oxide red and brown dye, blue and pink dye for purple. In the result compared with painted pigments of 11 portraits, iron oxide red without cinnabar was used on the face part and organic green dye only was used instead of inorganic pigments on the other side of clothing after Yu Eonho's portraits portrait. This study is show the painting techniques on the portraits in the late $18^{th}$ century. We expect to use as useful referencing data for the study on the coloring technique of a portrait in the late Joseon Dynasty.

• Korean Journal of Oriental Medicine
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.31-38
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• 2012

Jo Taek-seung(曺澤承, 1841-1907), who devoted himself to medical science mostly living in Haenam, and his son Jo Byeong-hu(曺秉侯, 1869-?) are significant in the history of Korean oriental medicine. The medical science of Jo Taek-seung appointed as Jusa(主事) of Hyeminwon(惠民院) in 1902 was handed down to his only son Jo Byeong-hu, who succeeded to his father's medicine and polished up the medicine, and recorded the results "Sanghangyeongheombangyochwal(傷寒經驗方要撮)" in 1933. Jo Taek-seung's portrait has been handed down to Jo Taek-seung's descendents' house in Munane-ri, Haeman. Not only does Jo Taek-seung's portraits well present the features of portrait mode of Joseon Dynasty period in the 19th century in their front view, exposure of two hands, expressive mode, background articles, etc, but also praises, poems, etc. giving information on manufacture intent, etc. to give prominence to the authors recorded by Jo Taek-seung, time of manufacture and position of medical official appears in one screen. In this paper, through disaster-removing poetic sentence showed in Jo Taek-seun'sg portraits, it was found that the author of the portrait is Choi Byeong-uk who worked mostly staying in Seoul and the present portrait was the one re-painted in 1907 by revising the portrait painted in 1894 when Jo Taek-seung was 54 years old, after Jo Taek-seung died. With regard to revised portion, presuming through records on the picture and comparative analysis of mode with portraits of doctors in the 20th century, it seems that the clothing of Confucian scholars in the first version was revised into the clothing of medical officials showing the position of Jo Taek-seung who took office as Jusa of Hyeminwon at the time of re-painting the portrait. Jo Taek-seung's portrait not only becomes important materials in the oriental medicine and historical world in the aspect of manufacture process, mode, etc. of Korean portraits including an aspect of medical official's portraits, but has significant meaning from the aspect of fine art history or clothing history.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.571-578
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• 2016

This study analyzed the pigments used in two portraits of Sim Hui-su using scanning electron microscopy/energy dispersive spectroscopy(SEM/EDS), X-ray diffraction(XRD) analysis, and microscopic observation, and then compared the results to those from nondestructive analysis. It was estimated that cinnabar/vermilion and minium were used for the red pigment, azurite for the blue pigment, atacamite for the green pigment, and lead white for the white pigment. These results were compared to the pigments of six portraits with a similar format, full-length official-attire portraits from the $17-18^{th}$ century Joseon period. It was revealed that the composition of the pigments used in the portraits varied depending on the date of production. Iron oxide, another red pigment, was used in the $18^{th}$ century. As for the blue colorant, smalt was used in the late $18^{th}$ century, whereas it was absent until the early $18^{th}$ century.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.1 s.215
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• pp.25-35
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• 2006

This study investigated the scheme for correctly making Korean fashion design known to the world. It attempted to increase the influence of the Eighteenth Century Costume in contemporary fashion. During the 18th century, France had an almost complete monopoly of fashion. Growing out the fairyland atmosphere of the French Court and often conceived of as ennui by personal vanity, this fashion was a product of an age which sought at any price to live life with supreme grace. Most of the special costume exhibitions in the Metropolitan Museum of Art are planned and directed by Polaire Weissman, Diana Vreeland, Richard Martin, Harold Koda. The Costume Institute has held exhibitions of the Eighteenth Century Costume several times such as "Museum Period Rooms Re-Occupied in Style," "the Eighteenth Century Women," "the Ceaseless Century," "Dangerous Liaisons," etc. Especially, the exhibition of "Dangerous Liaisons" is organized in ten parts such as the Portrait, the Levee, the Music Lesson, the Withdrawing Room, the Broken Vase, the Favorite, the Masked Beauty, the Card Game, the Late Supper, and the Shop. Using the eighteenth century as its touchstone, The Ceaseless Century proceeds differently, not seeking the short distance between a discrete present and the multiple past but rather showing the complicated navigation that comes of revivalism swing to and fro on the timeline of history and sensibility. The designers featured include Karl Lagerfeld, Gianni Versace, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Cristobal Balencicga, Christian Lacroix, Stella McCartney forChloe, Olivier Theyskens, Alexander McQueen, etc. Therefore, Korean designers should refrain from (Ed-confirm) the foreign collection without a clear purpose and should devote their effort to create with an active attitude.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.120-136
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• 2012

This thesis takes an aim to investigate the relationship between the costume and enlightenment ideology by studying the change of costume, and reviewing the portraiture of Queen Marie Antoinette. The method of this research is to select the 29 pieces among the portraitures from 1770 to 1793, and to analyze the headdress, shape of robes and ornaments. The results are as follows. The first period(1770-1774): The costume in this period of Dauphin of France is described as vivid, and simple like her characters, and also represents her active lifestyle. The ideology of equality between the two sexes from the enlightenment slightly influence the costumes seen inside the portrait of Dauphin. The second period (1775-1779): This is the early period of the Queen's enthronement and also before her childbirth. The relatively small number of portraits showed her as an authoritative figure because her skirts were expanded with huge panier, the waist were tightened with corset, and her headdress was enlarged. Thus, this period could not be defined as the one of enlightenment philosophies in light of the persistent unsanitary construction of costumes distorting the body. The third period(1780-1789): There are many portraits depicting the Queen and her children. It is noteworthy that the English style picturesque garden was illustrated as a background while the costume was simple and sanitary, both being affected by the enlightenment. The last period(1789-1793): This is the period between the French revolution and the death of the Queen. The form of costumes was transformed into the neoclassic style, headdress was reduced in size, and was simplified as a result of complete change of costume for the enlightenment. This research is to be interpreted as a tool of study about the relationship of costume, society and ideological streams and also be a means of elucidating the contemporary times in view of the past ones.

• Korean Association for Visual Culture
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• v.16
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• pp.131-161
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• 2010

This thesis investigates the cultural meanings of the first optical instrument, Camera obscura, in the pre-modern age, while it explains the development as well as the use of the Camera obscura in Europe and Korea. For this purpose the thesis traces the significant phases of the historical developments of the Camera obscura from L. da Vinci, G. B. della Porta, D. Barbaro, A. Kircher to J. Zahn etc. The Camera obscura was not only the symbolic instrument of the modernism in the sense that human being wanted to observe the outer world by himself and to be freed from the viewpoint of the christianity, but also was the forerunner of the modern visual culture, because it first time reproduced the artificial image of the natural world. Since the second half of the 17th century the box-type reflex Camera obscura had been produced, it began to be used as aid to drawing for painters like J. Vermeer, A. Canaletto and J. Reynolds etc. throughout Europe. It tells the evidence of the close relation between art and technology in the pre-modern age. Around the end of the 18th century the Camera obscura was brought to Korea, the closed country of the Fareast, by the scholars of the so-called 'Realist school' (Silhak-pa) who went to Beijing to acquire knowledges on the Western science from the European priests. In 1780s Yak-yong JUNG, one of the representative scholars of the Realist school, experimented the Camera obscura, and then, it was used for sketches of higher aristocrats' portraits by the supreme portrait painter of that time, Myoung-ki LEE. Those were possible only under the reign of the culturally liberal and reformative King, Jung-jo (ruled 1776-1800), and after his retreatment the inquiry of the Camera obscura had been dimished. It is not a historical coincidence that the Camera obscura could be examined and used in the period of the Enlightment both in Europe and Korea.