• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.102-117
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• 2008

This study shows the badge system for military officials of Joseon dynasty. The badge system for military officials of the 15th century consists of rank badges with tiger and leopard for the first and second ranks and rank badges with bear for the third rank. According to the code of laws, military officials are supposed to wear the rank badges with four different kinds of animals in Joseon dynasty. However, the badge system shown in the code of laws sometimes does not match with the badges in practices. Based on the literature, remaining badges and the badges in portraits, six different kinds of badges with animals are found : First, rank badges with tiger and leopard were used until the late 16th century. Second, rank badges with tiger were found in the period between the early 17th century and the latter 18th century. Third, rank badges with Haechi were found in the early 17th century. Fourth, rank badges with lions can be found in remains of the mid 17th century, the literature and the portrait of the late 18th century. Finally, the rank badges with double leopards or with single leopard were found from a portrait dated the late of 18th century to the last period of Joseon dynasty.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.89-100
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• 2016

18세기 제작된 유언호 초상화에 대한 비파괴분석 통해 채색에 사용된 안료의 종류와 채색기법을 추정하였으며, 이를 바탕으로 18세기의 초상화 11점과의 채색특성을 비교해보았다. 유언호 초상에 사용된 안료는 백색에 연백, 황색에 염료, 적색에 진사, 연단, 적색염료, 녹색에 석록, 청색에 석청, 갈색에 적색산화철, 갈색염료, 자주색에 청색과 분홍색의 염료 등을 사용하였다. 11점의 초상화와 채색 안료를 비교한 결과 18세기 초상화에 사용된 안료는 시기별로 큰 차이를 보이지 않았으며, 동일 화첩에 수록된 초상화일지라도 안료의 사용은 초상화마다 개별적으로 나타났다. 채색기법에서는 유언호 초상 이후의 초상에서 얼굴에 진사를 사용하지 않고 산화철만 사용하였으며, 의복의 배채에 녹색 안료 대신 염료를 사용하였다. 본 연구를 통해 18세기 전반에 걸쳐 제작된 초상화의 채색 특성을 확인할 수 있었다. 이번 연구결과가 조선 후기 초상화의 채색기법 연구에 기초자료로 활용되기를 기대해 본다.

• 한국한의학연구원논문집
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.31-38
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• 2012

Jo Taek-seung(曺澤承, 1841-1907), who devoted himself to medical science mostly living in Haenam, and his son Jo Byeong-hu(曺秉侯, 1869-?) are significant in the history of Korean oriental medicine. The medical science of Jo Taek-seung appointed as Jusa(主事) of Hyeminwon(惠民院) in 1902 was handed down to his only son Jo Byeong-hu, who succeeded to his father's medicine and polished up the medicine, and recorded the results "Sanghangyeongheombangyochwal(傷寒經驗方要撮)" in 1933. Jo Taek-seung's portrait has been handed down to Jo Taek-seung's descendents' house in Munane-ri, Haeman. Not only does Jo Taek-seung's portraits well present the features of portrait mode of Joseon Dynasty period in the 19th century in their front view, exposure of two hands, expressive mode, background articles, etc, but also praises, poems, etc. giving information on manufacture intent, etc. to give prominence to the authors recorded by Jo Taek-seung, time of manufacture and position of medical official appears in one screen. In this paper, through disaster-removing poetic sentence showed in Jo Taek-seun'sg portraits, it was found that the author of the portrait is Choi Byeong-uk who worked mostly staying in Seoul and the present portrait was the one re-painted in 1907 by revising the portrait painted in 1894 when Jo Taek-seung was 54 years old, after Jo Taek-seung died. With regard to revised portion, presuming through records on the picture and comparative analysis of mode with portraits of doctors in the 20th century, it seems that the clothing of Confucian scholars in the first version was revised into the clothing of medical officials showing the position of Jo Taek-seung who took office as Jusa of Hyeminwon at the time of re-painting the portrait. Jo Taek-seung's portrait not only becomes important materials in the oriental medicine and historical world in the aspect of manufacture process, mode, etc. of Korean portraits including an aspect of medical official's portraits, but has significant meaning from the aspect of fine art history or clothing history.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.571-578
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• 2016

심희수 초상화 2점의 채색 안료에 대한 분석과 현미경 관찰을 통해 채색 안료의 특성을 조사하였으며 비파괴분석 결과와 비교 검토하였다. 심희수 초상화에 사용된 안료는 색상에 따라 유사한 안료를 사용한 것으로 확인되었다. 적색 안료는 진사/주, 연단을 사용하였으며, 청색 안료는 석청, 녹색 안료는 녹염동광, 백색 안료는 연백을 사용한 것으로 확인되었다. 또한 유사한 형식으로 제작된 17~18세기 조선시대 관복초상화 6점과의 채색 안료를 비교한 결과 제작 시기에 따라 차이를 보였다. 적색 안료의 경우 18세기에 제작된 초상화에서 산화철 계통의 안료가 추가적으로 사용된 특징을 보인다. 청색 안료의 차이점은 18세기 초반까지 사용되지 않았던 회청 안료가 18세기 후반에 제작된 초상화에서 확인된 점이다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.25-35
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• 2006

This study investigated the scheme for correctly making Korean fashion design known to the world. It attempted to increase the influence of the Eighteenth Century Costume in contemporary fashion. During the 18th century, France had an almost complete monopoly of fashion. Growing out the fairyland atmosphere of the French Court and often conceived of as ennui by personal vanity, this fashion was a product of an age which sought at any price to live life with supreme grace. Most of the special costume exhibitions in the Metropolitan Museum of Art are planned and directed by Polaire Weissman, Diana Vreeland, Richard Martin, Harold Koda. The Costume Institute has held exhibitions of the Eighteenth Century Costume several times such as "Museum Period Rooms Re-Occupied in Style," "the Eighteenth Century Women," "the Ceaseless Century," "Dangerous Liaisons," etc. Especially, the exhibition of "Dangerous Liaisons" is organized in ten parts such as the Portrait, the Levee, the Music Lesson, the Withdrawing Room, the Broken Vase, the Favorite, the Masked Beauty, the Card Game, the Late Supper, and the Shop. Using the eighteenth century as its touchstone, The Ceaseless Century proceeds differently, not seeking the short distance between a discrete present and the multiple past but rather showing the complicated navigation that comes of revivalism swing to and fro on the timeline of history and sensibility. The designers featured include Karl Lagerfeld, Gianni Versace, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Cristobal Balencicga, Christian Lacroix, Stella McCartney forChloe, Olivier Theyskens, Alexander McQueen, etc. Therefore, Korean designers should refrain from (Ed-confirm) the foreign collection without a clear purpose and should devote their effort to create with an active attitude.

• 복식
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.120-136
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• 2012

This thesis takes an aim to investigate the relationship between the costume and enlightenment ideology by studying the change of costume, and reviewing the portraiture of Queen Marie Antoinette. The method of this research is to select the 29 pieces among the portraitures from 1770 to 1793, and to analyze the headdress, shape of robes and ornaments. The results are as follows. The first period(1770-1774): The costume in this period of Dauphin of France is described as vivid, and simple like her characters, and also represents her active lifestyle. The ideology of equality between the two sexes from the enlightenment slightly influence the costumes seen inside the portrait of Dauphin. The second period (1775-1779): This is the early period of the Queen's enthronement and also before her childbirth. The relatively small number of portraits showed her as an authoritative figure because her skirts were expanded with huge panier, the waist were tightened with corset, and her headdress was enlarged. Thus, this period could not be defined as the one of enlightenment philosophies in light of the persistent unsanitary construction of costumes distorting the body. The third period(1780-1789): There are many portraits depicting the Queen and her children. It is noteworthy that the English style picturesque garden was illustrated as a background while the costume was simple and sanitary, both being affected by the enlightenment. The last period(1789-1793): This is the period between the French revolution and the death of the Queen. The form of costumes was transformed into the neoclassic style, headdress was reduced in size, and was simplified as a result of complete change of costume for the enlightenment. This research is to be interpreted as a tool of study about the relationship of costume, society and ideological streams and also be a means of elucidating the contemporary times in view of the past ones.

• 영상문화
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• 제16권
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• pp.131-161
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• 2010

본 논문은 그동안 국내에서 연구가 미흡했던 최초의 영상기구 카메라 옵스쿠라(Camera obscura)를 영상이론의 관점에서 연구하고, 근대문화에서 그것의 의미를 파악하고자 한다. 이를 위해 르네상스 이후 카메라 옵스쿠라의 역사·문화·과학적 발전과정을 추적하고, 화가들의 미술작업과 연관되며 사용된 사례를 검토한다. 카메라 옵스쿠라의 원리는 중세이후 천문학자들의 개기일식 관찰과정에서 알려지기 시작했으며, 르네상스 이후 다 빈치와 델라 포르타의 영상 실험, 아타나지우스 키르허, 요하네스 차안 등과 같은 과학자들에 의해 이론적으로 발전되었다. 17세기 후반에는 '휴대용 카메라 옵스쿠라'가 제시되고 실용화되기 시작했으며, 화가들이 스케치와 드로잉할 때 사용하기 시작했다. 카메라 옵스쿠라는 인간 스스로 세계상(世界像)을 관찰하려는 점에서 탈중세적이고 시각중심주의적인 근대 과학정신을 반영하는 매체이며, 자연세계의 모습을 인공적 이미지로 보여주는 점에서 최초의 영상기구이다. 국내에 카메라 옵스쿠라는 조선 후기 정조(正祖) 때 북경(北京)을 갔다온 연행사(燕行使)들에 의해 유입되었으며, 정약용을 비롯한 서구 학문에 개방적인 실학자들에 의해 적극 수용되었고, 당시 초상화의 대가 이명기는 카메라 옵스쿠라를 이용해서 공신상(功臣像)을 그리기도 했다.