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A Study on Drag Queen's Costume (Drag Queen 복식(服飾)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Kan, Ho-Sup
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.4 no.2
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    • pp.69-83
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study is considering about drag queen's costume in the point of view of anthropology and psychoanalysis. The contents are the meaning of drag queen by theoretical research and the characteristics of drag queen's costume. The results of characteristics of drag queen's costume are summerized as following. 1. Sexual originality is related with homosexuality. Costume express character of gay not as a transsexual or cross-dresser. 2. Imitation is related with identification of drag queen and famous star like actress, pop singer and historical heroine. 3. Amusement is related with drag queen's life style. There are two kinds of character in amusement. One is humour. Another is an exaggeration. 4. Commercialism is related with mass-media culture. Drag queen's costume have an influence with movie, advertisement and modern fashion.

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Performance as a factor in the Contemporary Fashion Show - focus on the Paris and London collections Since the 1990s - (현대 패션쇼에 나타난 퍼포먼스적 요소 - 1990년 이후 파리, 런던 컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • 장안화;박민여
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.4
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    • pp.71-80
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    • 2001
  • Since the beginning of the 90's, Fashion shows appear to be a type of performance form of art combining with other areas to visually entertain the viewers. This can be explained by the modern tendency to escape from society which requires formality and complicated lifestyles. Fashion shows take place in a scene Influenced by the idea of post-modernism which redefines the definition of space. A church, old factory, unoccupied ground, subway stations, or even place like a waste disposal are used as a setting. The stage set is no longer the T shape run way and the procinium arch has disappeared. The gap between audience and stage has diminished and theatrical element is added to the fashion performance by using viewers living and working environments as setting of the show. The human relation with machine based on the cutting edge technology such as the stage automation, robots and mist making sprinkler system introduces new elements with spontaneity and detailed planning in the stage performance. Music also plays an Important role in attracting viewers. The sound track covers house music to techno music. Instead of music being abstract, folks orchestral music, choirs, piano. even live concert performed by pop artist provide the liveliness of the fashion show. And the catwalk itself is a performance. Model needs to be well trained as the capable talent who can handle sensitive gestures, facial expressions, dancing and choreography. The improvisatorial interaction between audience and model lead to audience participation. Models now range from pop star, ordinary people, handicapped people, to elderly and so on. John Galliano introduced the theatrical factors for the fashion show and Alexander Mcqueen approached the fashion show as the visual art of communication. Hussein Chalayan utilized high technology skewing futurism as if in a magic show. Today the Fashion show tends to be a total performance which includes audience participation, impromptu, and that break the limitation that fashion shows previously had. This will lead the fashion industry in opening new horizon of its own.

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An Analysis of a Strategy for the Activation of Korean Wave K-Fashion (한류 K-패션 활성화를 위한 전략 분석 연구)

  • Kim, Hee-Sun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.175-192
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of this study is to provide the characteristics and development direction of K-fashion and to systematize the strategic features performed by government agencies, fashion associations, fashion companies, and other companies to activate K-fashion. This research analyzed K-fashion related articles published in major newspapers and magazines in Korea from the late 1990s to early 2017. The results of the study are as follows. 1. The characteristics of K-fashion are as follows: The first is a trendy and sophisticated design with modern sensibilities, unique designs that reinterpret the latest trends with designer creativity, practical and popular designs that ordinary people can wear comfortably in everyday life. The second is functional and trendy materials. The third is excellent sewing technology. The fourth is rapid turnover of products by quick connections among planning, production and sales. The fifth is a lower price than quality. 2. The direction for K-fashion to pursue was the continuous and ongoing development of the above characteristics and the creation of a 'design with the Korean emotion of its 5,000 year history'. 3. The following projects were carried out to promote K-fashion. 1) Utilization of K-pop, K-drama and other Korean wave content. (1) Holding a fashion concert event that combines Idol's K-Pop performances with fashion shows. (2) Hallyu (Korean wave) star's costume support and design collaboration with Hallyu stars. (3) Collaboration between entertainment companies and fashion companies. 2) Nurturing a global fashion branding project. 3) Business support for overseas expansion of the K-fashion brand. (1) Support project for foreign trade fair participation. (2) Holding a fashion brand fair in Korea. (3) Overseas business support by establishing a showroom and design center 4) Business to discover and nurture new designers

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Historical Study of Glamour Style (글래머 스타일의 사적 고찰)

  • Park, Ju-Hee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.16 no.2
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    • pp.382-396
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the transition of glamour style expressed in modern fashion throughout the history. The glamour style in modern fashion was categorized into five periods which are Hollywood glamour(H), Feminine glamour(F), Rich glamour(R), Decadent glamour(D), and Trash glamour(T). These categories were analyzed and compared in the viewpoint of aesthetic values deduced on the previous study. As a method of analysis, literature study and case study through the publications in aesthetics, history and preceding theses were used. The results of analysis are: Ostentatious luxury was suggested by extravagance of the movie star in H, the splendid American lifestyle in F, conspicuous consumption in R, fin de siecle bad taste in D and self-assured exposure in T. Mysterious idolatry was studied as exaggerated goddesshood of the movie star in H. It was expanded to celebrities including fashion models, television actresses, pop singers and young couture designers in the other periods. Artificial sensuality was originated from the femme fatale image of the courtesan as well as the traditional femininity of Victorian era in H. It was developed through exaggerated hourglass silhouette of the wife dressing in F. But an aggressiveness in R, a hyper-sexual femme fatale in D, an independent and defiant image of the showgirl in T were observed. Playful queerness stood out clearly by the fin de siecle phenomena. Though it was embodied in sexual perversive subculture, it emerged as hi fashion by young designers in the late R and became a crucial aesthetic value throughout D and T. It is more connected with the origins of glamour which arouses sexual ambiguity, crudity, aggressiveness and death. The continuity and discontinuity of the glamour style based on the theory of 'linked solution' were also analyzed.

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Observation of the Cosmic Near-Infrared Background with the CIBER rocket

  • Kim, Min-Gyu;Matsumoto, T.;Lee, Hyung-Mok;Arai, T.;Battle, J.;Bock, J.;Brown, S.;Cooray, A.;Hristov, V.;Keating, B.;Korngut, P.;Lee, Dae-Hee;Levenson, L.R.;Lykke, K.;Mason, P.;Matsuura, S.;Nam, U.W.;Renbarger, T.;Smith, A.;Sullivan, I.;Wada, T.;Zemcov, M.
    • The Bulletin of The Korean Astronomical Society
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    • v.37 no.1
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    • pp.42-42
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    • 2012
  • The First stars (Pop.III stars) in the universe are expected to be formed between the recombination era at z - 1100 and the most distant quasar (z - 8). They have never been directly detected due to its faintness so far, but can be observed as a background radiation at around 1${\mu}m$ which is called the Cosmic Near-Infrared Background (CNB). Main part of the CNB is thought to be redshifted Lyman-alpha from gas clouds surrounding the Pop.III stars. Until now, the COBE (COsmic Background Explorer) and the IRTS (Infrared Telescope in Space) observed excess emission over the background due to galaxies. To confirm the COBE and the IRTS results and pursue more observational evidences, we carried out the sounding rocket experiment named the Cosmic Infrared Background ExpeRiment (CIBER). The CIBER is successfully launched on July 10, 2010 at White Sands Missile Range, New Mexico, USA. It consists of three kinds of instruments. We report the results obtained by LRS (Low Resolution Spectrometer) which is developed to fill the uncovered spectrum around 1${\mu}m$. LRS is a refractive telescope of 5.5 cm aperture with spectral resolution of 20 - 30 and wavelength coverage of 0.7 to 2.0${\mu}m$. After subtracting foreground components (zodiacal light, integrated star light and diffuse galactic light) from the sky brightness of observed five fields, there remained significant residual emission (even for the lower limit case) consistent with the IRTS and the COBE results. In addition, there exists a clear gap at 0.7 - 0.8${\mu}m$ in the CNB spectrum over the background due to galaxies according to recent results (Matsuoka et al. 2011; Mattila et al. 2011). The origin of the excess emission could be ascribed to the Pop.III stars with its active era of z = 7 - 10.

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The Grotesque Fashion in modern Fashion (현대 패션에 나타난 그로테스크)

  • 최정화;유영선
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.40
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    • pp.151-170
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    • 1998
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.

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A Study on the Hip-Hop Style - Concentrating on the Design Planning of the New Generation in the 1990' s - (Hip-Hop 패션에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 90 년대 New Generation의 디자인 기획(企劃)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Chu, Eun-Hee;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.86-99
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    • 1998
  • The aim of this study to examine the Hip-Hop style, one of the fashion trends of the new generation in the 1990s and to come up with a design with a Hip-Hop image. As the Counterculture, Black Renaissance, Pop Star Syndrome, the importance of Hip-Hop fashion in mass culture was recognized and given a firm place as one of the major cultural trends of the 1990s. Hip-Hop fashion has a history: it originated from the Caribbean style in the 1940s and was transformed into Rude Boys style in the 1960s, Two-tone style and Rastafarians style in the 1970s. Finally it was succeeded by B-boys and Flygirls style. Hip-Hop style combines characteristics of all three styles mixed in one, which are as follows. First, Neo-Hip-Hop Fashion, Second, Hip-Hop Reggae Fashion and Third, Graffiti Fashion. Based on these three Hip-Hop images of the 19905, an attempt will be made to produce a Design Planning with a predicted 1998 fashion trend. This research provides order sheets on ready-made clothes designed for new generation in their late 10s and early 20s. Design Concept, Image Map, Fabric, color direction will be offered on the basis of an image map drawn in line with the three design concepts incorporating three sub themes of Liveliness, Modern Ethnic, and Dynamic Future. Three designs will be designed based on the following fashion themes$\ddot{o}$ Generation 'Y', Black Guys and Street Boys.

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Study of Korean Wave's The Origin and the Usage (한류의 어원과 사용에 관한 연구)

  • Jang, Gyu-Soo
    • The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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    • v.11 no.9
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    • pp.166-173
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    • 2011
  • Asia has shown a tendency that a certain country's culture leads the fashion in turn every 10 years. The trend of Hong Kong movies in 1980's was called 'Hong Kong Wave', the trend of Japanese animation and games in 1990's was called 'Japanese Wave', and then the 'Korean Wave' began in the late 1990's. This term '~Wave(流)' is a Japanese-style term meaning '~way', '~style', '~group', and so on. In the same manner, recent popularity of Taiwanese TV dramas and a particular star that is in fashion in Japan are called 'Taiwanese Wave', and Chinese movies, broadcast, tourism, and etc. are called 'Chinese Wave'. Thus, the term 'Korean Wave' is a part of expression '~wave' used in Japan and it started to be used in the mean time, and was officially used in <韓流-Song from Korea>, a promotion record of Korean pop music, produced by Ministry of Culture and Tourism in Korea. In this paper I propose to correct the error of the term 'Korean Wave', and furthermore, to define a term expressing Korean culture and study for its usage.

A Study on Western Women's Hair Style in Twenty century (20세기 서구여성 Hair Style 변천에 관한 연구)

  • 김희숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.22
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    • pp.313-332
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    • 1994
  • The purpose of this study were as follows : 1) Investigate how to intluence Clothes with time background and trends of art-thought in the twenty century. 2) To understand chronologically how to change hair style Make-up and hair decor-ation. I. 1st and 2nd World War time(1920-1945) The women's social status and their sexual equality was promoted during in this time. 1) African Art Surrealism and Expression art were doninated. 2) The popalar trends were tutular silhoutte (Slim and long) boyish Style and military lookwere popular. 3) The popalar trends of were Eton Crop. short bob gaconne hair style cloche hat. page boy hair style were popular. 4) The trend of make-up which specially. emphasized eye make-up and imitated movie star make-up and make shining redish of lip and nails were popular. II. The stage of modernism(1945-1969) cold war time between communism and capi-talism and promotin of women's human rights were established in this time. 1) Pop art avantgrade art were catched up 2) The popular trends of were new look Kior's line silhoutte mini skirt and young fashion. 3) The popular trend of hair style was french twist. Pill Boxs hat curly bob style were prevalenced and they some what dwarfed hair style. 4) make-up natural make-up was popular. III. The stage of high economic development (1969-1990) Increased population economic development were tend to specialize with anti-social action such as Hippie and Punk groups. 1) Op art Androgynous post-modernism Punk and neo-modernism were catched up. 2) Clothes : classic style of reactionism layered look Punk-fashion avantgrade fashion and pantalon suits were prevalence. 3) Hair Style : Twiggy's short hair style the geometric hair cut natural long hair Spike hair unsex-hair style. 4) Make-up : diversified individuality were prevalence The result of this study indicated that the value's of recognize the importance of total fashion that is the harmonization of clothes hair style and make-up.

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The Korean Girl Group Kara's Differentiation Strategy Which Overcome the Trilemma and Led to the Great Reversal Success (삼중고 탈피 후 대역전의 성공을 이끈 걸 그룹'카라'의 차별화 전략)

  • Kim, Jeong-Seob
    • Journal of Korea Entertainment Industry Association
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    • v.15 no.2
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    • pp.169-178
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    • 2021
  • The Korean girl group "Kara" has suffered the trilemma of its de facto failure to debut, the crisis of team breakup, and the CEO crisis of the agency. But the group has made an outstanding achievement in the history of Korean pop music after overcoming all odds. Their success strategy has never been disclosed by insiders involved in Kara's total music projects. This study has been carried out in the analysis of the strategy to provide academic implications and to honor the contribution of the late CEO Ho-yeon Lee and Kara's key member Ha-ra Gu. Therefore, between Nov. and Dec. 2020, we conducted in-depth interviews with managers, composers, stylists and Ha-ra Gu(Only in 2019, before her death) who took part in the project. The research model is set up by combining Porter's Competitive Advantage Strategy and the music value chain model into categories of "Product Innovation Differentiation (PD)" (producing, album production, performance activities) and "Marketing Differentiation (MD)" (market targeting, image specialization, promotion and communication). The analysis showed that the PD focused on complete rediscovered harmonization and revalued members' personality and sincerity with peppy songs and dainty dances as well as emission of "bright energy" which caused healing effects instead of mimicking other star singers recklessly. In terms of MD, they selected Japan's 10-20s as their main market, increasing intimacy with fans and media with the image of cute+pretty+classy+sexy. The result suggests that Poter's differentiation can function as a meaningful strategy frame in the fostering, hit, and revival of idol groups. In addition, it reaffirmed that spontaneous and passionate activities of early-stage or celebrity fan may serve as a valid catalyst for realizing differentiation, as Kara's caller of Japanese actor Gekidan Hitori caused a strong "priming effect" that drove Kara's unexpected wonderful success in Japan.