• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.234-240
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• 2001

In order to improve the washing fastness of dyed polyester artificial suede fabric, it was dyed by using auto and anthraguinone type disperse dyes and treated with 3 different reduction clearing methods. The reduction clearing methods used in this study were normal alkaline reduction clearing, $N_2$ gas replacement method, and ultrasonic treatment during normal reduction clearing. The results were as followings ; The washing fastness property of dyed polyester artificial suede fabric was slightly improved by reduction clearing with $N_2$ gas replacement or with ultrasonic treatment comparing with normal alkaline reduction clearing. It was found that the use of $N_2$ gas replacement or ultrasonic treatment during reduction clearing eave effective removal of unfixed dyes on the fiber surface. We also obtained that the azo type disperse dye on polyester artificial fabric suede fabric showed higher wash fastness than anthraquinone type disperse dye.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.258-267
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• 2019

Synthetic suede without PFCs(perfluorinated compounds) are followed by subsequent high temperature treatment. But migration fastness of synthetic suede may be reduced due to sublimation of disperse dyes that results from the high temperature treatment. Therefore, in this study, chitosan treatment was used to improve the migration fastness before polyurethane dipping process. Polyester fiber was treated with sodium hydroxide aqueous solution before chitosan processing. This samples treated with a chitosan concentration upto 0.5% were dyed and coated with PUD(polyurethane dispersion). The migration fastness was most improved at 0.35% application. This is presumably due to the fact that the chitosan may increase the dye-binding capability through intermolecular hydrogen bonding.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.288-295
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• 2012

Although some degree of mechanical properties of suede fabrics mainly related to non-woven suede fabric has some researched, the thin suede fabric has rarely been researched. In this study, polyester(DTY 50/72) was used for warp, and after producing latent yarn and sea-island yarn for weft, two yarns were compounded to produce sea-island DTY yarn. By using the two produced yarns for warp and weft, we produced thin suede fabric with stretch function. For weft 2ply, weft density 85, 90, 100(picks/in) were applied to weave fabric, and for weft 1ply, weft density 125, 135, 140(picks/in) were applied to produce weft face 5-end satin weave. The mechanical properties of the produced fabric were researched. The result are as followed. The weight loss ratio of the suede fabric produced for this experiment reached 15% on the conditions of temperature $90^{\circ}C$ and 20 minutes, so that island parts were completely separated. The strength of weft 1ply applied suede fabric was about 7.5kg and that of 2ply suede fabric and about 3.5kg. But the strain of two samples ranged from about 40 to 43%. Although Hari was high when weft was denser. The values of Koshi and Kisimi were low. And shear stiffness was high when sea-island DTY yarn was used. The WC value was higher in the case of 2ply than in that of 1ply sea-island DTY yarn for weft, so that we may conclude that Fukurami was more affected in the 2ply case.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.12-21
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• 2009

The dyeing property of direct-spinning type and seaisland type 0.2D micro polyester nonwoven fabrics was characterized by three disperse dyes (Dorosperse Red KFFB, Blue KGBR, Yellow KRL) at $120^{\circ}C$ and $130^{\circ}C$. Before and after reduction cleaning, dyeing fastness was evaluated and the thermomigaration after heat setting at $180^{\circ}C$ for 60 min were also evaluated. Direct-spinning type fabric showed better dyeing property, wash fastness, and light fastness, but worse rub fastness than seaisland type fabric. The dyeing property and fastness of direct-spinning type fabric increased at higher dyeing temperature, whereas seaisland type fabric exhibited lower dyeing fastness and the increase of thermomigration at higher dyeing temperature. Non-fixed dye in fiber surface was removed by reduction cleaning process, then dyeing fastness was improved and thermomigration decreased. The higher dye uptake of direct-spinning type non-woven fabric caused the increase of dye molecule migration from fiber internal to fiber surface, so this fabric showed larger thermomigration than seaisland type non-woven fabric.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.275-287
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• 2018

In recent years, research on the development of eco-friendly synthetic suede based on water-dispersed polyurethane resin and non-fluorine water repellent has been conducted. Synthetic suede has a problem that the fastness to dyeing is greatly lowered after the water-repellent processing at a high temperature of $160^{\circ}C$ because the polyester is dyed with a disperse dye. Therefore, in this study, silica was added to water-dispersed polyurethane resin to improve dye fastness. To distribute the $PUD-SiO_2$ mixture evenly in the water-dispersed polyurethane resin, sufficient stirring was done for a period of time. When the $PUD-SiO_2$ mixture(PUD 1-5%) is applied to the substrate, it is confirmed through SEM that the mixture is uniformly applied without particle condensation. The results showed that silica with a diameter of 4~12nm and BET of $200{\sim}380g/m^2$ had the ability to improve dispersibility and fastness.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.180-187
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• 2001

Generally, polyester microfiber has much greater dye uptake than that of regular ones. In spite of high dye up-take visual shade depth of dyed fabric decreases with smaller denier, which results in poor washing fastness of dyed fabric. In this study, in order to investigate the washing fastness, polyester microfiber fabric was dyed by using two type of disperse dyes and treated with 3 different reduction clearing methods. The reduction clearing methods in this study are normal alkaline reduction clearing, $N_2$ gas replacement method, and ultrasonic treatment during reduction clearing. The results were as followings ; The most important factors affecting the washing fastness of polyester artificial suede fabric were found to be the reduction clearing method, the chemical structure of used disperse dyes and the structure and denier of fibers. It was also obtained that the heat treatment of dyed fabric decreased the washing fastness due to the dye migration from inner phase to surface.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.35-40
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• 1981

This study aims at finding appropriate adhesive conditions with special regard the material of 'fusible padding cloth inter ling' was frequently used for leather. As for leather material, pig suede, sheep suede were selected and drum dyed, cow split, napa have also been used. Mixed spinning non-woven fabric (polyester $50\%$, nylon $50\%$) were used as for padding cloth. Experimental appearance has been observed under the following adhesive conditions: Temperature of press were devided four levers; $120^{\circ}C$, $130^{\circ}C$, $140^{\circ}C$, $150^{\circ}C$, respectively. Adhesive time has been limited 5, 10, 15 second each. And the pressure has been conditioned as $0.2kg/cm^2$ continuously. After all this experiment, it was discovered that the material which had long contact with low temperature conditions has similar adhesive power to material that has short contact with high temperature conditions. There is a great difference according to the leather's dying process, the finishing method of the cloth, and the part of leather surface. The best condition for suede are $140^{\circ}C$, $150^{\circ}C$, at 10 seconds. and for D/D, NAPA, $130^{\circ}C$, at 10 seconds. Although the conditions of $150^{\circ}C$, at 15 seconds was possible for split, the process time can be shortened according to the increase of temperature.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.78-86
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• 2009

When scouring and contraction finishing at $90^{\circ}C$ using Relaxer or Rotary Washer contraction and weight loss ratio in warp and weft directions were excellent. Also surface state of fabric after drying or sanding treatment was excellent without crease. Low melting polyester fabric showed a complete melting bond by heat setting(P/S) at above $160^{\circ}C$. The alkali hydrolysis reaction of polyester showed the breakpoint in the weight loss behavior test, polyester yarn showed a breakpoint ranging from 25% to 28%. This is due to the difference of the hydrolysis rate between regular polyester and soluble polyester. Initially the soluble polyester was eluted and micro-fibrillized 5 times faster than a regular polyester. At a later time, a regular polyester was reduced weight to impart a proper flexibility and drape property to the fabric. As a result of surface sanding finishing, the surface of interior fabric showed a surface state most stabilized when using Mesh No. 220 in mono 0.2d after elution finishing. When the rotation direction of sanding roller was pro-, pro-, pro-, and retro-direction, a directional effect of tuft was not shown, a writing effect as suede was exhibited and a surface state was even. Sublimation fastness was 3-4 class for polyester and 2-4 class for nylon. Light fastness 3-4 class after lapse of 100 hours and 2-4 class after lapse of 160 hours. Abrasion fastness was 3-4 class on wet and 4-5 class on dry Laundry fastness was 2-4 class. As such, the abrasion fastness is slightly reduced upon wetting and the use thereof for interior is excellent, whereas laundry fastness is slightly lowered.

• 감성과학
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.133-140
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• 2006

본 연구에서는 의복 착용 시 직물이 스치면서 발생하는 왕복마찰음에 대한 물리적 소리특성과 주관적 감각을 고찰하기 위해, 왕복운동을 이용한 직물마찰음발생장치를 개발하고 이 장치를 이용하여 5가지 직물의 왕복마찰음을 녹음한 후, 총음압(LPT), 음압차(${\Delta}L$), 주파수차(${\Delta}f$)를 계산하였다. 왕복마찰음에 대한 주관적 감각은 7개의 소리감각(부드러움, 시끄러움, 날카로움, 맑음, 거침, 높음, 유쾌함)에 대하여 의미미분척도로 평가되었다. 나일론 태피터와 폴리에스테르 레노 직물의 왕복마찰음은 높은 LPT를 나타내어 시끄럽고 날카롭고 거칠며 불쾌한 소리로 인지되었다. 반면 LPT와 ${\Delta}f$의 값이 작은 폴리에스테르 울트라스웨이드와 실크 크레이프드신 직물의 왕복 마찰음은 부드럽고 조용한 소리로 평가되었다. 마찰방향(왕복 방향, 한 방향)에 따른 직물의 마찰음 비교시, 왕복 방향 마찰음은 한 방향 마찰음보다 더 날카롭고 시끄럽고 거칠게 인지되었으며 마찰방향에 상관없이 LPT가 소리감각을 예측하는 중요한 요인으로 나타났다.