• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.101-114
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• 2007

This research aimed to identify the differences, in terms of the pattern, of using wool and jersey for designing jackets and to provide a theorized solution. The object of this study is development of women's tailored jacket pattern by the traits of fabrics with fabrics those are generally used to develop the power of manufacturing technique about fit of jacket. Basic bodies prototype, graphics of sleeves prototype and graphics of jacket pattern those a clothing company at present(on&on, a brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co.,Ltd) is using were used as basics of tailored jacket pattern. Three kinds of fabric(wool, polyester, jersey) were chosen, we made jackets in the same manufacturing process of the clothing company, modified and made up for the weak points and then we compared and analyzed differences of pattern by the traits of fabrics, the results are as follows: 1) We drafted basic tailored style jacket pattern, made a jacket with wool fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points by the trend, then developed JacketⅠ for study; 2) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with polyester fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket II for study; 3) With JacketⅠ for study as the basic, we made a jacket with jersey fabric, made wearing experiment, modified and made up for the weak points, then developed Jacket III for study; 4) We presented final degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I II III for study; 5) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket II(Polyester), there was no change of size overall except extra amount which happens because of the trait of the fabric in 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size in 3 items(height of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern; 6) We compared and analyzed the differences of pattern with the degree of polymerization of pattern with Jacket I(Wool) for study and Jacket III(Jersey) for study, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 11 items(neck point to shoulder point length, Bishoulder point length, back interscye length, front interscye length, armhole circumference, depth of armhole, chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist dart) among 20 items of body format pattern, there were differences of size by the kinds of fabric in 5 items(height of a sleeve, circumference of a sleeve, width of a sleeve, length of a sleeve, width of bottom of a sleeve) among 5 items of sleeves pattern.

• 감성과학
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.191-196
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• 2011

노즐시험기로 측정되는 직물의 당김 힘은 직물이 갖는 포괄적인 촉감을 나타낸다. 노즐시험기는 기존 KES 시스템보다 저가이며, 측정에 있어서 절차가 간단하고 빠르다. 본 연구에서는 노즐시험기로 측정되는 직물의 촉감을 정량적으로 평가하기 위해 마찰법칙을 기초로 하여 반 실험적 촉감 방정식을 개발하였다. 모델 식에서 고려된 변수들은 직물의 마찰계수, 그리고 직물의 굽힘 길이와 전단 신도에 의해 결정되는 직물의 3차원적 변형 특성을 나타내는 드레이프 계수이다. 12 종류의 서로 다른 물성의 면과 폴리에스터 직물들을 사용하여 실험 측정한 촉감 값과 모델 방정식으로부터 예측한 촉감 값들을 비교 분석하였다. 높은 마찰계수, 높은 굽힘 길이, 그리고 낮은 전단 신도를 갖는 직물일수록 높은 촉감 마찰력, 즉 낮은 촉감 성능을 보여주었다. 실험 측정한 촉감 값과 모델 식으로부터 계산한 값들 사이 잘 일치하였으며, 이와 같은 결과는 모델 식을 사용하여 직물의 고유 물성들로써 촉감의 객관적인 예측이 가능함과 더불어 촉감 성능의 향상을 위한 직물설계에 있어서도 유용한 정보를 제공할 수 있음을 보여준다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.357-362
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• 2006

This study is to evaluate the objective sensibility of the commercial lining fabrics. Five kinds of the linings were collected by adding taffetas with four kinds of fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate) to one polyester stretch fabric. The six basic mechanical and hand properties were studied by using KES-FB system (Kawabata Evaluation System). The result of measuring the mechanical properties shows that polyester has high bending rigidity (B), that polyester-stretch has a high value of linearity of load-extension curve (LT), tensile energy (WT), tensile resilience (RT), and coefficient of friction (MIU) and a low value of bending rigidity(B), shear property, and geometrical roughness (SMD). The nylon has a high value of bending rigidity (B), shear property, and compression resilience (RC). The rayon has a high value of coefficient of friction (MIU) and linearity of compression-thickness curve (LC) and a low value of shear property, and the acetate has a low value of shear property. The result of hand value shows that polyester, nylon, and acetate are a high value of KOSHI (stiffness), NUMERI (smoothness), and FUKURAM (fullness & softness), and they feel stiff and massive, that rayon has a low value of NUMERI and FUKURAMI. The total result of hand value shows that polyester taffeta and polyester stretch fabric are about the same as the best material for the lining of a woman's dress for spring and summer, and the next thing is acetate, but nylon and rayon are somewhat inferior materials. This provides a fundamental data for the comfortable clothing production of a higher value-added product through the study on the mechanical and hand properties of the lining as well as the right side of fabrics.

• 감성과학
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.105-114
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• 2021

본 연구는 한국의 대학에 재학하고 있는 한국인 여대생과 중국인 여대생을 대상으로 캐주얼 셔츠 소재의 주관적인 감각과 선호도의 차이를 파악하고자 수행되었다. 춘추용 캐주얼 셔츠의 소재로 시판되는 소재 중에서 섬유조성이 상이한 7가지 종류의 흰색 셔츠 직물을 선정하였다. 캐주얼 셔츠 소재에 대한 주관적 감각 및 촉감 선호도의 평가자는 한국인 여대생과 중국인 여대생으로 40명이었다. 참가자들은 7종 소재를 관찰하고 나서 주관적인 감각과 촉감 선호도에 대한 평가를 설문지를 사용하여 작성하였다. 캐주얼 셔츠 소재의 주관적 감각을 요인분석한 결과, 평활감, 경량감, 유연감, 신축감의 4개 요인으로 분류되었다. 주관적 감각 요인은 소재의 섬유조성별 국적에 따라 부분적으로 유의한 차이를 보였다. 한국인 여대생은 중국인 여대생 보다 면 100% 소재를 더 가볍다고 평가하였고, 폴리에스터 50%/모달 50% 소재와 P100 소재를 더 신축성이 있다고 평가하였으나, 중국인 여대생은 폴리에스터 50%/면 45%/스판덱스 5% 소재를 더 가볍다고 평가하였다. 캐주얼 셔츠 소재의 섬유조성별 촉감 선호도는 국적에 따라 유의한 차이를 보였다. 한국인 여대생은 중국인 여대생에 비해 면 80%/폴리에스터 20% 소재, 폴리에스터 50%/면 45%/스판덱스 5% 소재, 아마 100% 소재를 더 선호하였다. 한편, 캐주얼 셔츠 소재의 주관적 감각 요인이 촉감 선호도에 미치는 영향은 국적에 따른 차이를 보였다. 한국 여대생의 경우, 평활감과 유연감이 캐주얼 셔츠 소재의 촉감 선호도에 긍정적 영향을 미치는 반면, 중국인 여대생은 평활감, 유연감, 신축감이 촉감 선호도에 긍정적 영향을 미치는 것을 알 수 있었다. 이처럼 캐주얼 셔츠 소재에 대한 주관적 감각 및 촉감 선호도는 한국인 여대생과 중국인 여대생간의 차이를 보였다. 따라서 여대생을 대상으로 캐주얼 셔츠 소재 기획시 이러한 감성의 차이를 반영하는 것이 필요하다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권10호
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• pp.1467-1477
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• 2002

This study was investigated physical properties of stretch fabrics by KES-FB system to show suitable basic data to making skirts of excellent capacity and develop more organized basic skirt pattern by fitness evaluation. 1. The results of T. H. V.(Total Hand Value) were as followa: In the kind of blending fiber, cotton/spandex was more excellent than nylon/spandex and polyester/spandex, in the direction of stretch, one-way(weft inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandex and cotton/spandex were higher than two-way(warp and wet inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandes and cotton/spandex, two-way nylon/spandex was higher than one-way nylon/spandex. 2. The results of calculating the variance between sample stretch fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics after standardizing were as follows: Stretch fabrics has 2 range of tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness and weight as compared with Jpanese s/s women's suit fabrics. In the tensile property, one-way stretch fabrics were almost the same with Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics, only two-way polyester/spandex had+1～+2 range. In the bending, shear property, there was no difference between sample fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics 3. In the total fitness of the skirt, nylon/spandex is the best in the fabrics and one-way stretch fabric is better than two-way strethch fabric.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제35권3호
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• pp.137-150
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• 2023

This paper investigated the applicability of polyester yarn coating using ther- moplastic polyester elastomer (TPEE) to replace polyvinyl chloride (PVC) coated yarn for blinds fabric. For this purpose, suitable TPEE for yarn coating was selected by measuring thermal and rheological properties and the yarn coating process conditions were investigated by changing variables such as extrusion temperature, die and nipple dimensions, take-up speed, and core yarn denier. TPEE coated yarns with a diameter of 0.3 and 0.4 mm were prepared, respectively. Tensile properties and cross-section uniformity revealed by a scanning electron microscopy (SEM) of the TPEE coated yarn were analyzed. Among several candidates, TPEE having a melt index of 35 and melting temperature of 153℃ was the most suitable for replacing PVC, and the opti- mum coating conditions for the TPEE coating yarn were a head temperature of 170℃ and core yarn denier of 420 denier. The selected TPEE coated yarns have enough ten- sile strength and uniformity to replace present PVC coated yarns, certified by SEM photograph.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.1-7
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• 2003

We investigated the effect of color depth on polyester fabrics by plasma treatment. In this study, although it have many paper about effects of plasma treatment, we observed interfacial electrokinetic potential of polyester fabrics by plasma treatment and also we investigated relationship between deep coloring agent and plasma treatment to get the effect of color depth on polyester fabrics. The results obtained are as follows, 1. Plasma treatment did not enhanced the effect of color depth of polyester fabrics by plasma treatment independently. 2. In the case of using the deep coloring agent with plasma treatment on polyester fabrics, lightness was more decreased than using the deep coloring agent itself. 3. Plasma treatment could not affect surface shape and tensile strength of treated polyester fabrics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.373-377
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• 2001

When the polyester/cellulosic fiber mixed fabrics were treated with sodium hydrogensulfate for burn-out printing, it is examined how the effects of process conditions as concentration of acid, fixation temperature and fixation time act onto the properties of the polyester ground fabrics. The print paste, indalca solution, was mixed with sodium hydrogensulfate and glycerine, and then screen-printed on the fabrics. The properties of the polyester ground fabrics after removing away the cellulosic fibers were investigated. The yellowness index and the breaking load of polyester ground fabrics affected by the process conditions, especially dry heat fixation temperature.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.58-66
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• 1997

In order to evaluate the exact effect of detergency it is necessary both to measure the actual soil content by chemical analysis and to determine the degree of soil removal visually. Since it takes considerable time and effort to use both methods, usually one of the two methods is used. Many studies have been carried out through increasing the visibility of oily soil to evaluate detergency by measuring reflectance of fabrics. In this study Sudan Black B, an oil soluble dye was used as an indicator to increase the visibility of oily soil on cotton and polyester fabrics. The condition of artificially soiled fabrics and the method of evaluating detergency were investigated which represent the actual detergency of oily soil by measuring the reflectance only. Also the detergency of Sudan Black B and that of oily soil were compared with each other under various washing conditions, As a result, the K/S values converted from the reflectances showed a good correlation with the actual soil content. Linear relationship between K/S value and the actual soil content was obtained. The K/S values of washed fabrics were higher than those of unwashed fabrics which included same content of soil since the soil visibility changed during washing. But the difference was small when Sudan Black B was used. With the increase of soil content, detergency of cotton fabric decreased, but detergency of polyester fabric increased gradually. With regards to soiled fabrics, detergency of cotton fabric measured by K/S value was close to that of actual oily soil when Sudan black B was used as an indicator.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.196-202
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• 2001

In order to investigate the relationship between subjective sensation for fabric sound and touch and the objective measurements, eight different apparel fabrics were selected as specimens. Sound parameters of fabrics including level pressure of total sound (LPT), level range (ΔL), and frequency differences (Δf) and mechanical properties by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) were obtained. For subjective evaluation, seven aspects of the sound (softness, loudness, pleasantness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, and highness) and eight of the tough (hardness, smoothness, fineness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness, and thickness) were rated using semantic differential scale. Polyester ultrasuede was evaluated to sound softer and more pleasant while polyester taffeta to sound louder and rougher than any other fabrics. Wool fabric such as worsted and woolen showed similar sensation for sound but differed in some touch sensation in that woolen was coarseast, heaviest, and thickest in touch. In the prediction model for sound sensation, LPT affected positively subjective roughness and highness as well as loudness, while ΔL was found as a parameter related positively with softness and pleasantness. Touch sensation was explained by some of mechanical properties such as surface, compressional, shear, and bending properties implying that a touch sensation could be expressed by a variety of properties.