• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.149-166
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was illumination of the stage costume by applying the study of a subject of human expression, which establishes identity of dramatic characters. This study was conducted by referring a variety of theses, an extensive national and international literature. The color symbolism that is depicted in Shakespeare‘s work manifests the transition period of old days, which was influenced by the Renaissance and the Religious Reformation. And color preferences and the meanings I attach to them in his play, definitely reveal the Middle Ages Christian way of thinking which was obsessively dominated their mind. I also determine that the color preferences and use in Elizabeth Era also distinctively separate the social status, which were also influenced by its social conditions. Besides this, colors that were depicted in Shakespeare's work also shown many similarities from Italian Commedia dell‘arte, which were in vogue all over the Europe. Customary color symbolisms which from natural color experiences were also applied in "The Tempest". "The Tempest" was presented on the first day of November in 1611 for the first time. Following this, many plays and films have been produced in foreign countries and Korea. With an analysis of "The Tempest", costume designs for Miranda and Ferdinanad were illustrated at the end. The costumes for Miranda and Ferdinand were mainly considered to express pure love and vigorous youth of two lovers, symbolizing the image of the theme love, forgiveness, and reconciliation.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.12-24
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• 2009

This paper aims to investigate if a total of 266 college students from Yanbian, China, and Korea's Jeonnam Province are satisfied with their face and body type, and to find out an image-development method, depending on body characteristics. For this, a questionnaire survey using the 5-point Likert Scale was conducted, and an SPSS program has been used for data analysis. Besides the descriptive analysis, crosstab analysis, t-verification, and frequency analysis have been conducted. As body shape, posture, costume, accessories and makeup play an important role in image formation, this paper intends to form positive ego through exact awareness of the body shape by providing base data to a set image-development strategy. Then, the result has turned out as follows: First, in terms of the body index (i.e., Rohrer index), both Korea's Jeonnam Province and China's Yanbian college students were included in a category of the mean value. In terms of satisfaction with their body shape, on the contrary, China's China's Yanbian college students were higher than Korea's Jeonnam Province college students. Second, male China's Yanbian college students were slightly higher than female China's Yanbian college students in terms of satisfaction with their facial shape. However, the male students showed no big interest in facial care. Third, in terms of facial shape, an egg-shaped face was the most preferred in both China's Yanbian and Korea's Jeonnam Province college students, followed by an inverted triangle-shaped face in China's Yanbian college students and a diamond-shaped face in Korea's Jeonnam Province college students, showing significant difference ($p{\le}.001$). Even though both college students live in Northeast Asia, their preference on facial shape turned out to greatly differ, which indicates their different social environments. This paper will be helpful in global marketing for college students who are the major consumers in the future as Korean-Chinese exchange increases.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.41-50
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• 2004

This research proposes the on-stage costumes for the play Hamlet of Shakespeare performed by Yunheedan Guhri Pae - the Street Theater Troupe. Stage costumes have an important role in displaying the characteristics of each characters to the audience and has big visual effects. However, in order to design the costumes in the object viewpoints of the audience, the survey on the images of the characters who had actually watched the performance was taken place and proposed the costume design according to the results of the survey. Hamlet a: This result was applied to propose a sweater in black color, black leather pants and vest. Hamlet b: This result was applied to propose hooded coat in purple in middle level of brightness and color spectrum and yellow coat. For free image, loose pants in blue and vest in the same color tone were proposed. Gertrude a: This result was applied to use purple (violet) with reddish tone to propose the formation of a dress applying tailored suit. Gertrude b: This result was applied to propose purple gown and the one-piece dress with black laces. Ophelia a: This result was applied to propose feminine white dress and cape in purple color tone. Ophelia b: This result was applied to propose dyed and weaved clothes. Through the surveys as above, the images of each character was driven in adjectives, and using the results driven from the brightness, coloration, and color, color images were proposed. Only one costume cannot make up for the stage costumes and because it exists as an element of stage production, it is true that costumes are limited in some areas. However, that limit can become the motive of the costume. There is a limit, which the designer cannot produce the costumes as he or she had designed but I believe it is the center of the on-stage customers to display the characteristics of the characters according to the given concept. The limit of this research is the fact that because the costumes were designed so they fit the conditions already given, thus it was difficult to regard the process of designing and producing the costume as a project done according to the interaction. And in the future, if it is possible, I wish for the joint research with the people responsible for stage art to take place as a practical stage art. It was possible to produce practical costume since they were produced for actual performance and the production of costumes considering the dance steps, line of flow, and acting, was able to reduce the trial and error on stage. Through this research, I felt that the understanding and smooth interaction on diverse other areas not limited to the costume design should be taken place and believe that this was a research that proposes new research method since there had been only a few previous research regarding the on-stage costumes for actual performances. Therefore, this research had depended on the surveys given to the audiences to endow objectivity, however, I wish this research can contribute to defining effective process and methods for the on-stage costumes with more active researches with diverse methods and in diverse areas. I am sorry that the costume production for all the characters and all the scenes in Hamlet couldn't be done due to many limitations. As the following research assignment, I am planning on designing the costumes for all the scenes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.232-246
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate aesthetic characteristics and aesthetic consciousness of the style that European fashion(Paris, London, Netherlands) has accepted the since $19^{th}$ century. The mode Japonisme's development process in around $20^{th}$ century and 21st century has 6 characteristics as follows; 1. Accepting kimono as dressing gown 2. Accepting kimono as Japanese style's objet of Japanese taste 3. Accepting Japanese textile's skills, patterns, and asymmetry. 4. Accepting kimono's formative nature : flat pattern, flexibility, style etc. 5. Shocking of Japanese style's beauty 6. Accepting characters and casual wear Japanese aesthetic consciousness expressed on unconstructed design or deconstructed design that is the aesthetic characteristic of Japanese fashion is , , and the aesthetic consciousness expressed on Zen(Seon) style, cartoons of character fashion, and costume play is .

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.343-353
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• 2021

Historical dramas are changing in response to the public who wants more dramatic development, and historical costumes are also expressed in a modern sense. The purpose of this study is to examine the modernization of historical costumes in historical dramas and how the modernization of historical costumes in historical dramas is fostered from the learner's point of view with suggesting implications. As a result of this study, first, the essential problem with the modernization of historical costumes was the excessive modern transformation that undermines historical facts in historical dramas. Second, the negative perceptions of the modernization of historical costumes in historical dramas included the loss of the unique Korean identity, decreased immersion in drama, and the educational influence of media. Positive perceptions focused on the increased interest through raising awareness of traditional culture, compromises on changes in the times, and increased visual play of the public. Third, the implications of the modernization of historical costumes in historical dramas require the awareness improvement of participants in historical drama and a thorough preliminary investigation by the costume designer on the historical costume, an in-depth study of traditional costumes, a systematic educational approach, viewers' attention, and government effort.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.12
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• pp.1761-1771
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• 2007

The artificial exaggeration of stage costumes is thought to be one of the major techniques of enhancing dramatic expression on stage, whichever for visual impact or symbolic effect of dramatization. In the history of stage dressing, a variety of styles has been tried using different materials and production techniques. This may be reviewed as an effort to express dramatic effects more effectively. As this trend became obvious in Europe after the Second World War, this study analyzes the stage costume to deepen our understandings of the role of costumes in expressing dramatic effects. To accomplish this, we first summarized the history of stage costume materials and technical advance and chose five major cases representing the history of stage costume since the Second World War in Europe based on aesthetic and creative aspects: 1) Simplified stage of Jacques Copeau, 2) Stylized stage of Bertolt Brecht, 3) Essential stage of Grotowski, 4) Measured stage of Robert Wilson the Master, and 5) Post-dramatic stage of Philippe $Decoufl\'{e}$. In each of particular case, the historical, material and dramatic contexts were examined as well as different material-effects. The results are as followings: 1) Costume for Copeau's simplified stage: its simplicity plays a supporting role to the gesture of actors(intensifying effect). 2) Costume for Brecht's stylized stage: the artificial stylization integrates into the play with the importance approximately equal to the actors's acting. 3) Costumes for Grotowski's essential stage: costumes disappeared to emphasize only actor's presence on stage. 4) Costumes for Robert Wilson's measured stage: costumes made concrete impression to the extent of obtaining the same importance of actor's body among other stage art elements(lighting, sound, props, actor, text, etc). 5) Costumes for Decoufle's post-dramatic stage: costumes in the era of multi technology possess multi functional aspects that surrogate actors' body. This study suggests that stage costumes take an important part in dramaturgy to the extent that the intent of dramaturgy can be induced enough from stage costume. Thus, costume makers are expected to incorporate the appropriate dramatic factor more than before.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.12
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• pp.9-23
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• 1988

This study is on the costumes for Korean traditional play, Nong-ak(farm music), and intends to analyze their aesthetic features, laying emphasis on Pilbong Nong-ak, Im sil, Chollanam-do. About its origin there are many kinds of theories; for example, the theory of hoping stability, the theory of it being related with Buddhism, the theory of martial music, etc. Shamanic, Buddhist, and martical fators that support these theories are expressed through flags, bells, drums, Deograe (half-coats), Cheonrips (sang-mo, felf hats), go-kkals(peaked hats), colored lines called 'ga-sa', which are used in Nong-ak. The characteristic of the costumes used in Pilbong Nong-ak is that it keeps its conservativeness and the costumes of its members are various and splendid. For example, leader groups' black half coats, Changbu's and Hwa-dong's red and bule over coats are remarkable. Particpants wear gok-kal or cheonrip, trousers and half coats which are the basic costumes of Korean Hanbok, and wear blak half coats or blue vests and put blue, red, and yellow lines around them. The colors and knotting methods of those lines in this region are the same with those of chollawoo-do and Kyongi province, but different form those of Kongwon and Kyong-sang province using green, red, and yellow colors. This comparison of colors shows each region's preference of peculiar colors and those colors coincide with colors used in flags. The research on the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes through each region's clothes tells us that these can be linear clothes which have expressiveness as stage clothes used in Madangori, the play which is performed in the field, and modern spatial formativeness. Those characteristics are as follows; 1. The expressions of a rhythmical and daring round line by turning a long line of sang-mo. 2. Various rhythms according to the attaching methods. 3. The expressions of thick, simple, and daring color lines. 4. Natural beauty of materials. 5. The popular simplicity and non-technicality 6. The beauty of five-direction colors, Oriental ideal colors Consequently in this study our national consciousness of beauty are examined through clothes. It is suggested that the aesthetic characteristics of Nong-ak clothes and ornaments should be effectively expressed, for this purpose. interests in participants' clothes should be increased in order to prevent the confusion of each region's features. Also it is necessary to improve color lines, their length, width, and knotting methods, and beautify instrument. Finally this study intends to bring the reappraisal about the art of Nong-ak clothes and its re-establishment in view of modern aesthetic consciousness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.217-228
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to grasp inconveniences and improvements by examining wearing condition and satisfaction of protective clothing targeting 114 Korean farmers and to suggest basic data for enhancement of pattern and wearing satisfaction of protective clothing by understanding problems of pesticide-proof clothing through comparative analysis on the size of its commercial products. Most of male subjects were in charge of spraying pesticide, whereas female were most likely to play an assistant role to hold the hose of pesticide applicator. Both of female and male subjects were very aware of the harmful effect of pesticide on human body and tried to take off the clothes immediately after spraying it to reduce possible damage caused by pesticide. As a result of examining wearing condition, the farmers avoided wearing protective clothing because that it feels hot, stuffy, and uncomfortable to move. This hesitant response of wearing the clothing was not shown significantly in case of female subjects who play an assistant role for spraying. Although the farmers wore protective equipments such as mask or gloves in a proper way as compared to protective clothing, they seemed to choose alternative way rather than best way to block pesticide completely. The satisfaction regarding to the fitting of protective clothing which the subjects showed low in all items of upper-lower clothes except waistline. It is necessary to improve the functionality such as relief from heat stress and convenience for movement rather than design or economic in protective clothing development. As a result of comparing the size of five kinds of commercial protective clothing, the farmers got confused to choose the product since designation method of size across companies showed a significant difference in an identical clothing size. In addition, the sizing system developed on a basis of a well-built man has become a hindering factor in wearing satisfaction of female farmers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.145-165
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• 1990

This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.156-170
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• 2012

These days, fashion museums that were established during the 60~70s in advanced countries are spiritedly planning opportune exhibitions as well as opening collections and accumulated research materials to the public. They are also publishing innovative visual references and offering various educational programs. They play a crucial role in speeding up the development of creativity of fashion designers by accumulating archives through analytic researches. Since Korea has applied western fashion for over a century, now is the time to make a fundamental long-term plan for establishing the identity of Korean fashion by gathering and classifying the history of a century. Thus, the aim of this study is to reach a conclusion to construct fashion museum in Korea to discover as well as develop fashion talents and eventually enhancing national competitiveness. First, the theoretical study on the history and the functions of fashion museum were analysed. 'The collection & exhibition' in the common thread is one function of the fashion museum. Another function is 'the research', which includes accumulations, classification and record of materials in a particular point of view. It also includes publishing catalogues with temporary exhibitions and open management to the scholars and the designers. 'The communication', which is enacted through various educational programs and events for inflow of new visitors, is the other function of fashion museum. The current state of fashion museums in advanced countries and Korea were also analysed. Korean public museums only owned traditional collections while public fashion museums in other advanced countries usually owned collection of the past and the present together. The only contemporary fashion museum in Korea is run private which leads to many problems. Finally, The study went further to suggest the advanced model of fashion museum in Korea based on the research.