• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.211-225
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• 2003

This present study suggests a wider view of our ancestors' food culture by examining the generality and peculiarity of the food culture of the Chosun Period by associating the culture with genre paintings made in the $18th{\sim}19th$ century in Korea. People in the Chosun Period outwardly advocated the Confucian idea reflecting the life philosophy of Chinese. However, the vitality of common people's frank and simple lifestyles saturate genre paintings and display Korean food culture and sentiments of the age. Initially this paper examines the history of food sociology through Namjong literary artists' paintings. The meaning and philosophy of drinks are considered in relation to the trend of declining tea culture among scholars in the mid-Chosun Period with the policy of promoting Confucianism and oppressing Buddhism. Secondly, this paper investigates the background of genre paintings in the late Chosun Period, and examines the unique food culture of Koreans appearing in paintings, particularly with regard to the abundance and variety of seasoned vegetables appearing in genre paintings, our ancestors' sentiment appearing in milk-gathering painting, humanity in guest reception, food culture and view of nature in farm villages, fishing life history, food distribution culture, soybean-curd culture, etc.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제8호
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• pp.89-119
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• 2009

Kim, Jun-Geun(Gisan) was a late 19th century Chosen dynasty painter who created numerous genre paintings for West European clients in the newly opened treaty ports of Wonsan, Busan and Inchon. The treaty ports in the late 19th century Chosen represented of the crossroads the economy, values, and the institutions of the West European powers. In particular, the agriculture-based economy, Confucianism, and land-owner noble class started being eroded by a commerce-based economy, the values of Christianity, West European institution, and a new class of people who amassed wealth from commerce. As Kim, Jun-Geun's paintings were created for sale to West European clients, they exhibit characteristics that are distinct from the traditional genre paintings in terms of presentation style and the selection of the subject matters. The export genre painting originated in the 18th century around Guangdong, China. Broadly, there are two styles of genre paintings: the Guangzhou style and Ningbo style. Kim, Jun-Geun's paintings resemble the Ningbo style. The Ningbo style tends to highlight the main subjects, form an album of small paintings, and provide a simple treatment of the scenes without the background. Kim, Jun-Geun's paintings cover most aspects of life of common people of his time, ranging well beyond the subjects matters of the traditional genre paintings. His subject matters include the scenes of funeral, folk games, Buddhist and ancestor worship, prison and punishment, shaman custom, debauchees, government officials' formal trips, beggars and handicapped, etc. Many of the subjects are the neglected and the oppressed of the society. And he presents in detail the dress and its ornament that the subjects wear, and all the utensils and things around them. Besides, his subjects' faces are generally expressionless, and their postures are stiff; as such, the feeling of liveliness or movement is lacking. It may be the results of Kim, Jun-Geun's taking the other perspective, namely of his West European clients, rather than his own. The adoption of the other perspective may in turn be a product of the Social Darwinism and the new sense of values that accompanied the infusion of Christianity and West European institutions. Kim, Jun-Geun's portrayals of his subjects appear to reflect the attributes with which the West European Orientalists' of the period characterized the people of the Far East, namely, backwardness, barbarity, irrationality, violence, and mysticism.

• 복식
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• 제62권4호
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• pp.15-31
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• 2012

This study is intended to understand the styles, colors and color arrangements of costumes expressed on Kisan Kim Jun-geun's genre paintings of Joseon in the late 19th century. The paintings vary according to the status and gender of the person wearing the costume as well as the time period and different situations the person belongs to. Also, this study aims to examine the meaning and value of Kisan's paintings in terms of the history of Korean costumes. The result of this study are as follows: The basic and common attire for people of all status and class is the jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) for men and Banhoijang jeogori, chima(skirt) for women. Men wear Po(coat) that represents their status and age, and they put on various hats according to different weather conditions or work-skill even when in the same status and class. However, women wear the Baeja(vest), Durumagi(coat) and head-dresses when they are cold. Overall, the costume patterns and shapes that appear on Kisan's paintings show the same patterns and structures when compared to different data during the same time period. Thus, they provide useful information to help not only understand the changes of patterns and structures of costumes, but also the situations and emotions of the people of that time period. Moreover, it can be understood that various colors and color arrangements that reflect the situations and emotions of the late 19th century were used. This study that analyses the colors and color arrangements used in Kisan's genre paintings can provide the very basic and systematically arranged data to help understand the unique colors in Korea. These data can also provide important information to understand the use of dyes and pigments during that time. Therefore, Kisan's genre paintings are meaningful and valuable in terms of the history of Korean costumes for these are the data, from which we can review the costumes, colors and color arrangements in the years from 1890 to 1910.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.52-63
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• 2010

The Hanryu(韓流) phenomenon in and around Asia looks like slowing down lately. At that time, the research about contents that can inform the high traditional culture of Korea is useful. The references which can make a study about cultural clothes, especially paintings, let us to infer the life of the people of that period. In this research, I try to study the characteristics of customs, symbol and costumes by analyzing the paintings of Shin, Yun-Bok who was genre painter of the late Chosun. The mens are wearing dopo(道袍) and are putting sejodae(細條帶) around their waists and gat(黑笠). Also, We can see many different types of job such police, official man, a buddhist priest, a barmair, kisaeng and shaman through the costume. Most of women in the paintings, They are wearing Deep blue skirts, banhwoejang pale tone jeogori and tress. We discussed the common lives of the people through genre painting. They have satire, humor, and symbolism. Also, we can look into the various lifestyles, customs of times and seasons, ceremonial occasions, civilian beliefs, and plays ransmitted from the past. The philosophy in Shin, Yun- Bok's genre painting, is close to Taoism not Confucianism.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제8호
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• pp.33-58
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• 2009

This paper examines four genre paintings on the subject of child education by Jean-Baptiste-Sim${\'{e}}$on Chardin(1699-1779). The Governess, The Diligent Mother, Saying Grace, and The Morning Toilette garnered critical attention after they were exhibited in the Salon from 1739 to 1741. After the exhibition, the paintings were made into prints and frequently sold to members of the bourgeois class in Paris. The iconographical details of Chardin's genre paintings have, thus far, been compared to Dutch genre pictures of the seventeenth century. Further, most studies conducted on Chardin's paintings focus on formal analysis rather than the historical and social contexts. Through attempting social-contextual readings of Chardin's educational series, this paper argues that the significance of Chardin's painting series of child education lies in his representation of the ideal French bourgeois family and the standard of early childhood education in the eighteenth-century French Enlightenment period. In each of the four child education paintings, Chardin depicted a mother with children in a domestic space. Even though this theme derives from traditional Dutch genre paintings in the seventeenth century, the visual motifs, the pictorial atmosphere and the painting techniques of Chardin all project the social culture of eighteenth century France. Each painting in the child education series exemplifies respectively the attire of a French gentlemen, the social view on womanhood and the education of girls, newly established table manners, and the dressing up culture in a 'toilette' in eighteenth century France. Distinct from other educational scenes in previous genre paintings, Chardin accentuated the naive and innocent characteristics of a child and exemplified the mother's warmth toward that child in her tender facial expressions and gesturing. These kinds of expressions illustrate the newly structured standard of education in the French Enlightenment period. Whereas medieval people viewed children as immature and useless, people in the eighteenth century began to recognize children for their more positive features. They compared children to a blank piece of paper (tabula rasa), which signified children's innocence, and suggested that children possess neither good nor bad virtues. This positive perspective on children slowly transformed the pedagogical methods. Teaching manuals instructed governesses and mothers to respect each child's personality rather than be strict and harsh to them. Children were also allotted more playtimes, which explains the display of various toys in the backgrounds of Chardin's series of four paintings. Concurrently, the interior, where this exemplary education was executed, alludes to the virtue of the bourgeois's moderate and thrifty daily life in eighteenth century France. While other contemporary painters preferred to depict the extravagant living space of a French bourgeoisie, Chardin portrayed a rather modest and cozy home interior. In contrast to the highly decorated living space of aristocrats, he presented the realistic, humble domestic space of a bourgeois, filled with modern household objects. In addition, the mother is exceptionally clad in working clothes instead of fashionable dresses of the moment. Fit to take care of household affairs and children, the mother represents the ideal virtues of a bourgeois family. It can be concluded that the four genre paintings of child education by Chardin articulate the new standards of juvenile education in eighteenth century France as well as the highly recognized social virtues between French bourgeois families. Thus, Chardin's series of child education would have functioned as a demonstration of the ideal living standards of the bourgeois class and their emphasis on early childhood education in the French Enlightenment period.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.151-160
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• 2006

조선시대 회화를 보면 산수화나 풍속화 등도 유행을 하였지만 서민층에서부터 사대부층까지 다양한 계층에게 사랑을 받은 것은 민화이다. 민화는 허세와 가식이 없고 애써 기교를 부리지 않아 소박한 매력을 제일로 꼽고 있고, 자연스러우면서도 솔직하고 회화적인 맛 또한 일지 않고 있다. 이러한 민화 가운데에서도 책거리 그림은 유교적 토대 위에 자연과 인간과 그 환경이 조화를 이룬 삼의 공간의 소우주를 표현하고, 인간의 삶을 예술의 중심에 놓은 근대지향성이 엿보인다. 본 연구에서는 책거리 그림 중에서도 '쌍폭 책거리' 그림을 대상으로 선정하여 그림에 대한 색깔, 사물들의 배치, 사물의 위치, 서로간의 상관관계, 사물의 방향, 다소점에 대하여 분석하였다. '쌍폭 책거리' 그림이 가지고 여는 특유한 공간감과 현대의 공간 배치구조와의 상관관계를 연구 한 결과 다소점, 원근의 무시, 역원근법, 평행투시법 등의 표현방법은 평면의 그림에 입체감을 표현하고, 배치되어있는 사물들에 생동감을 더 해준다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 본 연구를 통하여 조선시대 '쌍폭 책거리' 그림의 구도배치가 현대적인 구도배치에 모티브로 적용될 수 있음을 알 수 있었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.766-777
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• 2012

The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.95-112
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• 2005

Hair styles, dresses and their ornaments are basic measures that show the trend of the times, the people and their life in both Eastern and Western societies. The history of a country could start or be extinguished at any time, but life goes on. Koguryo was founded around Anno Domini and fell at 668 A. D. What was Koguryo people like? How was their hair style and costume? This study aims to respond those questions. The Koguryo ancient mural paintings can be broadly divided into the Jip-An region and the Pyon-Yang region. Among the paintings found, that in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb at the Pyon-Yang region is the biggest and the most splendid. It is a figure genre painting, which contains a kitchen, a rice mill, a stable, a barn, a garage, etc. Those places illustrate the way of life at the time. The painting also comprises a man with a crown, who is seen as the king and owner of this tomb. The woman with a vertically designed hair style is perceived as the queen. A highly guarded and decorated royal parade is also presented in detail. The hair styles and costume evidence in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb are not seen in the paintings of the Jip-An region. This study inquires into the differences between the Pyon-Yang and lip-An regions through the history and the culture of those areas. Nevertheless, it could prove tentative to confirm the owner of the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb with the only evidence of the words found in the wall of the tomb. It is the author's intention to study and analyse further.

• 한국조경학회지
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• 제36권5호
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• pp.94-107
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• 2008

본 연구는 조선시대 풍속화를 분석하여 당대의 정원이 어떻게 활용되었는가를 추적해 보는 연구이다. 정원의 다양한 의미 중 감각적 즐거움의 장으로서 의미에 초점을 맞춘다. 이를 위해 서구의 감각적 즐거움과 비교되는 동아시아의 미학적 특질인 풍류 개념을 활용한다. 풍류의 개념은 감각적 즐거움을 넘어 정신적 희열로서 인간이 자연과 존재론적으로 조우하는 차원의 의미를 내포한다. 정원에서의 활동을 살펴보기 위해서 일상생활을 포착한 조선시대의 풍속화를 대상으로 하였다. 정원의 경계가 명확하고 구체적인 공간이용행태를 보이는 풍속화로 13점을 선정하여 분석하였다. 그 결과 다음과 같은 특징이 파악되었다. 첫째, 정원은 자연과의 합일을 통한 커뮤니케이션의 장이라는 점이다. 이 자연과의 합일은 사람과의 합일, 예술과의 합일을 촉발하며 공동체의 커뮤니케이션 작용을 가능하게 한다. 둘째, 정원은 문화 창작 공간이라는 점이 확인되었다. 정원은 사람들이 모여 시회를 하는 등 시적인 상상력을 촉진시키는 장소이다. 셋째, 정원은 내면 성찰을 위한 명상의 장이라는 점이다. 이러한 개인적 차원의 풍류가 존재하므로 소박하거나 일상적인 정원도 가치를 가지게 된다. 넷째, 정원은 취향, 권력, 인맥 등 드러내기의 장이라는 점이다. 풍류는 특정 계층에 의하여 추구되는 경향이 있기에, 이러한 계층적 특성이 정원문화에서도 나타난다. 정원과 관련된 풍류문화 역시 개인적인 사색적 풍류에서 유희적 풍류에 이르기까지 다양한 층위가 존재함이 확인되었다. 서구의 자연관이나 문화를 답습하기보다는 우리 선조들이 향유하였던 풍류문화를 현대적으로 재해석하고 보다 일상적이며 친숙하게 번안하는 시도가 요구된다.

• 자연과학논문집
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.257-287
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• 1996

조선후기는 근대 서민 문예의 부흥기로서, 서민문예의 대두와 더불어 일어난 서민계층의 등장은 복식에 있어서의 대중 복식 문화를 부각시키면서 복식의 유행현상이 나타나게 되었다. 이 시기 모든 계층의 여성 복식에서 공통적으로 풍미한 유행사조는 과장된 치마허리 그리고 둔부를 volume감 있게 강조한 치마등을 통해 여체를 드러낸 선정적인 silhouette이 나타났다. 유교 규범에 의해 억제되고 절제된 여성들의 복식행동(clothing behavior)에서 이처럼 육체를 긍정한다는 것은 사회의 일정한 진보단계에 위치한다고 보겠다. 그것은 Eroticism자체는 영원한 인간의 본능에 의존하겠지만, 이 Eroticism을 통하여 어떤 사회적 질곡을 벗어나려고 하는데에 있어서는 그 Eroticism의 발로가 사회적 의의를 가지는 것이다. 그러므로 조선후기의 여성복식에서의 Erotic Mode는 여성들 자신의 것인 동시에 그 사회의 것이며, 그것은 가식적이고 표면적인 유교적 도덕관의 외피 속에 흐르고 있는 인간성의 폭로이고, 그것을 표현할 수 있다는 데에 서민문예의 진보성과 근대성이 있는 것이다.