• 제목/요약/키워드: pattern making

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YUKA와 CLO의 패턴 제도 기능 비교 - 바디스 원형을 중심으로 - (Comparison of Pattern Drafting Function between YUKA and CLO - Focusing on the Basic Bodice -)

  • 최영림
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제23권5호
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    • pp.634-644
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    • 2021
  • This study aims to propose various ways to utilize CLO, which focuses mainly on the production of 3D virtual samples, by comparing it with the pattern drafting functions of Four apparel CAD experts, who have teaching experience in YUKA and CLO, participated in a focus group interview, and a basic bodice prototype drafting was carried out by each participant to evaluate the pattern drafting functions of YUKA and CLO. The result of this study showed that the pattern drafting tools of YUKA are subdivided since YUKA is a CAD tool inherently specialized in pattern making. Though CLO provided a relatively limited pattern drafting menu compared to YUKA, it was found that pattern drafting could be accomplished with the help of supplementary tools and functions. This finding suggests that each CAD offers the corresponding tools for the same use of menus or functions in the prototype drafting process. The major difference between YUKA and CLO is that YUKA defines the pattern area by a set of line segments, whereas CLO utilizes an outline composed of closed curves. YUKA provides various specific tools according to the options such as angles, straight lines, and curves, while CLO produces the same results using combinations of a limited number of tools. Compared with YUKA, the advantage of CLO is its user-friendly task environment such as the Windows-based user interface, from the usability perspective. This study concludes that pattern drafting education using CLO would help not only industrial 3D design practitioners but also pattern education in academia

인체의 3차원 스캔 데이터를 이용한 밀착 바디 슈트 개발 (2D Pattern Development of Tight-fitting Bodysuit from 3D Body Scan Data for Comfortable Pressure Sensation)

  • 정연희
    • 한국생활과학회지
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    • 제15권3호
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    • pp.481-490
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    • 2006
  • Adjusting pressure level in the construction of athletes' tight-fitting garments by reducing the elastic knit pattern is a challenging subject, which influences the performance of the wearer directly. Therefore, in this study, relationship between the reduction rates of the basic pattern obtained from 3D human scan data and resultant clothing pressure was explored to improve the fit and pressure exerted by clothing. 3D scan data were obtained using Cyberware and they were transformed into a flat pattern using software based on Runge-Kutta method. Reduction rate was examined by subjective wear test as well as objective pressure measurement. As a result, difference in the length between the original 3D body scan data and the 2D tight-fitting pattern was 0.02$\sim$0.50cm (0.05$\sim$1.06%), which was within the range of tolerable limits in making clothes. Among the five garments, the 3T-pattern was superior in terms of subjective sensation and fit. The pressure of the 3T pattern was 2$\sim$4 gf/cm2 at five locations on the body, which is almost the same or a bit higher than that of Z-pattern. In the case of tight-fitting overall garment, the reduction rate of the pattern in the wale direction is more critical to the subjective sensation than the course direction. It is recommended that the reduction grading rules of course direction should be larger than that of Ziegert for a better fit of tight-fitting garments. In the case of wale direction, however, reduction grading rule should be kept the same as suggested earlier by Ziegert (1988).

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고감성 니트디자인을 위한 무봉제 니트 조직패턴의 성능과 이미지간의 연구 (1) - 암홀 접속부(마치)의 역학적 특성을 중심으로 - (Study of the Relation between Quality and Image of the WholeGarment Knit Structured Patterns for High Sensible knit Design (1) - On mechanical property to armhole connecting part (Machi) -)

  • 이유진;최원정
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제16권1호
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    • pp.52-68
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    • 2012
  • To achieve the aim of this study, 9 different types of samples were made to examine mechanical property according to structured pattern and type of Machi of pullover armhole of WholeGarment(seamless knitwear). With respect to samples, from which comparisons are made and anaylzed among basic characteristics of material, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation due to repeated extension of armhole connecting part, the following conclusions could be obtained. It's revealed that the tensile strength of Machi part as being armhole connecting part of samples is more affected by Machi type than pattern structure. Of Machi types, it showed stronger tensile strength in the order of Normal(Normal Machi)< Machi_B(unilateral Machi)

3D 스캔 데이터를 활용한 밀착 패턴원형 개발 (Development of 2D Tight-fitting Pattern from 3D Scan Data)

  • 정연희;홍경희
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제30권1호
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    • pp.157-166
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    • 2006
  • The human body, which is composed of concave and convex curvatures, makes it difficult to transfer into 2D patterns directly from 3D data. In previous studies. Jeong, et al.(2004) suggested the block method was fester and easier when dealing with the triangular patches of male's upper dress form. Although the block method is useful to make a pattern, the information(area, length, etc.) from a 2D pattern would be different depending on the direction of the block method. As a result horizontal and diagonal block methods were suggested as optimal methods for 2D tight-fitting patterns. These block methods were closer to the original area of the 3D scan data than the vertical block method. The total area of the 2D pattern obtained by the horizontal and diagonal block methods showed little differences. In case of the horizontal and diagonal block methods, the total error of the 2D pattern area ranged from $0.01\%\~0.25\%$. In comparing the length of the 2D pattern with that of the 3D scan data, the obtained 2D pattern was $0.1\~0.2cm$ shorter than the 3D scan data, which was within the acceptable range of errors in making clothes. 3D space distribution images between the body surface and the experimental clothing were also measured and $3\%$ enlargement of the original pattern was verified as the adequate adjustment.

만 9세~10세 남아의 저고리 원형설계에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Jeogori Pattern for 9 to 10 Year-old Boys)

  • 김미영;여혜린;권영숙
    • 복식
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    • 제51권7호
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    • pp.147-165
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    • 2001
  • The objective of this study was to develop the Jeogori Pattern for 9 to 10 year-old boys To determine the measurement items for the Jeogori Pattern making, applied factor analysis, correlation analysis and regression analysis to the 37 measurement items of the 9 to 10 year-old boys classified as a standard somatotype. To understand the shape and variation of the body surface, analyzed the replica of the upper body surface that was obtained by the method of using surgical tape. Be based on the results of the above studies, designed the Jeogori Pattern. The designed pattern was evaluated by the sensory test. The drafting methods of Jeogori Pattern obtained are as follows. $\circled1$ The measurement items are Bust Girth, Center Back Waist Length, Neck Width, and Hwajang Length. $\circled2$ Jeogori Length Center Back Waist Length$\times$4/3 $\circled3$ Front Body Girth(1/2) : B/2 + 1.5cm Back Body Girth(1/2) : B/2 + 3.5cm $\circled4$ Jin-Dong : B/4 + 3cm $\circled5$ Back Godae Width(1/2) : Neck Width/2 + 1.7cm Front Godae Width(l/2) : Back Godae Width(1/2) - 2cm $\circled6$Back Godae Point is 1.5cm higher than shoulder line, and Front Godae Point is 1.5cm lower than shoulder line. $\circled7$ Back Godae Depth: 1.2cm + 1.5cm = 2.7cm The Jeogori Pattern designed by the above method Is as (fig. 8) The results of the sensory test of the new pattern are as fellows. Except for 2 items, every mark of 24 test items has over 5.0 point and a total average mark is 5.25 point. Witch is a good mark. Therefore the new pattern is valid. Especially, the parts of Git, sleeves and back face have a high mark, so the appearances of those parts are excellent.

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드레스 제작을 위한 인대 연구: 사이즈 커버율과 보정을 중심으로 (A Study on the Dress Form for the Making Dresses: Focusing on the Size Cover Rate and Correction)

  • 이상희;권숙희
    • Human Ecology Research
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    • 제58권2호
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    • pp.215-228
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    • 2020
  • Underlying dress forms for high coverage patterns are very important in the dress industry. Size 9 from brand D was chosen according to the analysis that it was the best option because a dress should have a large allowable range in one size. The criteria for selection were the dress form with a waist circumference of 63.50 centimeters, which is close to the standard size of women in Korea. Brassieres for dresses were included to enhance the aesthetic value of the correction process in producing a basic dress pattern. An experimental torso pattern was applied to evaluate the fit and suitability of the dress form that was also later verified in the process of the dress works. Three dresses were produced and presented on the chosen study dress form. The research procedures are as follows. First, the sell-through rates and feedbacks were collected from the dress form vendor. Second, a literature survey on dresses and a dress company investigation were conducted. Third, the amount of body dimension changes due to the use of a bra in the dresses were examined. Fourth, after the correction of the dress form, the torso pattern was made by draping. Fifth, the torso experimental clothing made of muslin material was evaluated. Sixth, the dress works of the top design were presented using the size 9 basic pattern developed by brand D.

국내 여성복 업체의 환편니트 제품 생산현황 조사 (A Study on the Production Conditions of Circular Knit of Domestic Women's Apparel Industry)

  • 오지영
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제18권5호
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    • pp.637-646
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    • 2016
  • The goal of this study is to provide basic data on developing circular knit basic pattern for women in their 20's. Production conditions of circular knit product pattern making among domestic women's apparel industry was researched, and collected data on sizes and ease amounts from woven and circular knit pattern were compared and analyzed. According to the result of the survey, product measurements adjusted to the actual body size fit for the brand's image were used, and the common problem among manufacturers and consumers regarding circular knit products turned out to be change in size and form due to stretching. For the basic pattern of circular knit, stretching quality was reflected in the woven basic pattern based on plain stitch(single knit) and then dart was removed and ease amount was reduced. The result of looking into size and ease amount about woven and circular knit torso & sleeve block shows that there is a significant difference among chest circumference, hip circumference, bi-shoulder length, interscye back, interscye front, scye depth, upper arm circumference and wrist circumference, and it was clear that circumference and width on the areas around the wrist tended to fit around the body more when circular knit was used instead of woven fabric.

드레스 셔츠 원형 설계 및 그레이딩룰에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Pattern and Grading Rule for Dress Shirts)

  • 황영미;이정란
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제27권1호
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    • pp.48-59
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    • 2003
  • The purposes of this research lie in developing dress shirts pattern targeting adult males between 25-34 years of age and presenting the rules of grading according to the real circumstances of dress shirts industry. The findings of this research are as follows: 1. The surveyed companies kept different size systems ranged from 5 to 18. They kept different size systems each other, and the pattern making was conducted by modification of the collar size, chest size, etc of the pattern developed through each company's know-how. All the surveyed companies were using point method of grading. 2. The method of the research pattern was to adopt N/6+1(cm) for the width of the back of the neck. N/6 for the front neck, N/6+2 for the depth of the front neck, B/6+7 for the shoulder width, B/6+5.5 for the breast width, B/4+5 for the whole width (back), B/4+4 for the whole width (front), B/4+3.5 for the depth, AH/2+0.5 for the back arm hole, AH2+1 for the front arm hole. 3. The grading rule was made after classifying the sizes into 14 centered on the standard size 40. Through the wearing test of research grading rule, 1 found the suitability of grading size 36 and 43 satisfiable.

의류 패턴 설계를 위한 삼차원 인체 체표면 스캔 데이터 활용에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Use of 3D Human Body Surface Shape Scan Data for Apparel Pattern Making)

  • 천종숙;서동애;이관석
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제10권6호
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    • pp.709-717
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    • 2002
  • In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.

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