• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.376-388
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the types and characteristics of Chinese indigo dyed designs performed until today in private houses of Chinese minority races and to examine the modern value of traditional dyeing crafts of minority races by investigating the cases of utilizing modern private Chinese indigo dyed designs. As the research methodology for theoretical study about the history of Chinese traditional pattern dyeing, the origin, types and characteristics of Chinese indigo dyed designs, the preceding research data, photo data, and Internet data were utilized, and for the empirical research on Chinese traditional dyeing techniques and the cases of utilizing today Chinese indigo dyed designs, the on-site survey on Guizhou and Yunnan was conducted during February and March 2008 and the data were collected and analyzed. Based on the results of this research, it was found that Chinese indigo dyed designs represented Chinese traditional pattern dyeing, which was inherited and developed mainly in Chinese minority races and Chinese. It could be seen that according to geographical distribution and characteristics of each race, the types and characteristics of dyeing techniques were formed, which are classified into the batik of the Miao of Guizhou in the Chinese southwestern region, the tie-dyeing of Bai of Yunnan, and Chinese blue calico(resist printing) of Chinese private houses in the Hunan and Huseo regions, and these represent the three typical Chinese dyeing techniques today. Based on the results of empirical research on the utilizing cases, focusing on the traditional living handicrafts of Chinese minority races, traditional cultural articles, and artworks, the modern values such as practical, cultural, and artistic values of Chinese indigo dyed designs could be rediscovered.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.121-135
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• 2024

By reviewing the cultural and historical literature on persimmon juice dyeing and Galot in Korea and Japan, this study aims to show the similarities and differences between the traditional and eco-friendly persimmon juice dyeing practices of these two countries and suggest a direction for the development of modern Galot. The root of persimmon dyeing in Korea is presumed to have begun around the 13^th or 14^th century; however, no documents or records have been found to support this notion. Meanwhile, there are records of persimmon dyeing in Japan that date back to around the 10^th century, but that fact is rarely mentioned. The historical and folk cultural significance of traditional persimmon dyeing in Japan and Korea was different in terms of the use of persimmon dye and the wearing of Galot. In other words, in Korea, Galot was mainly used as work clothes for farmers and fishermen, who took advantage of the garment's functional strength, while kaki-tannin in Japan was applied to fishing tools and industrial materials. Furthermore, Japanese traditional Galot (Kakigoromo) was worn by monks. This was a remarkable difference in that the garments were used as clothing by a special class within society. There were also differences between the two countries in terms of their use of modern persimmon juice dye and Galot. Korea is currently developing and releasing a variety of modern Galots. Meanwhile, Japan is attempting to develop a feeling of relaxation by using the natural colors of Kakisibu dyeing and applying sophisticated traditional pattern printing techniques to modern Galot.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.979-993
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• 2016

Mongolian cashmere sliver, yarn, and fabric were dyed and bleached with a solution of ascorbic acid and iron sulfate at $70^{\circ}C$, and then dyed using natural indigo powder at the dyeing temperature of $25^{\circ}C$ to $90^{\circ}C$ for 15-90 minutes using the IR dyeing machine. K/S values of bleached samples decreased significantly when dyed above $70^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature for a longer dyeing time. Bleached cashmere fabric showed a greater loss of tensile strength than unbleached cashmere fabric, even when the samples were dyed at $40^{\circ}C$. With a higher dyeing temperature, yarns lost fullness, became thinner, and the pores between the yarns were enlarged. The x-ray diffraction pattern exhibited a prominent increase in crystallinity and the protein assay indicated a loss of protein in the bleached sample dyed at $90^{\circ}C$. Thinning of scales, fractured or raised tip of scales, and roughness on the entire surface of the fiber were also observed. The results indicate that bleaching and high temperature dyeing cause a serious damage to cashmere fibers. In addition, bleaching and high temperature dyeing cause significant fiber damage. Natural indigo dyeing using low temperature dyeing is recommended to produce blue color cashmere.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.83-94
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• 2005

This paper is to analyze patterns for Indonesian traditional textiles. Ikat is the resist-dyeing process in which designs are reserved in warp or weft yams by tying off small bundles of threads with fiber resists to prevent the penetration of dye. Batik is the technique applying a wax resist before dyeing to form a pattern in negative. Ikat and batik are the most renowned textile arts of Indonesia. Patterns are classified as geometric pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern. Also this paper discusses the origins of ikat and batik. Therefore this Paper proposes the classification and feature extraction of ikat and batik patterns. The results of this study can be effectively applied to develop competitive pattern design for Indonesian textile market.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.115-122
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• 2009

Marbling dyeing technique shows beautiful flowing pattern because the pattern is transferred to the medium by the pigments floating onto the viscous solution base. However, this marbling pattern does not have any reproducibility and the result of accidental pattern formation. Marbling process contains many complicated procedures such as making marbling base, mordanting the medium, and bubble removal with size limitation. Computer changed the many aspects in textile design and digital technique is used in many design production. However, it is impossible to produce marbling pattern with digital drawing. In this research, the digital textile design starting from marbling pattern was developed for digital textile printing. Marbling was done to produce the initial motifs and scanned. Several marbling media such as silk, polyester, and paper were used. Photoshop was used to process and develop textile design based on these marbling motifs. One repeat was developed and various colorways were tried. The developed textile design were printed using DTP.

• 복식
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• 제54권7호
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

Research into the ancient dyeing and weaving culture is of critical importance to the fact that they constitute an integral part of the Korean costume. Due to the absence of the originals reflecting ancient costume cultures, it is difficult to figure out what the dyeing and weaving culture was like in ancient times. Because of limited visual materials available from the wall paintings of ancient tombs, studies conducted so far concerning the costume culture for the Goguryeo have focused on visual elements such as shape, structure, and type. As a result, research into ancient Korean dyeing and weaving cultures hasn't been properly made. Thanks to the presence of both some dyeing fabric originals from Goguryeo's neighboring countries and some visual materials like the wall paintings of the Goguryeo, it may be possible to obtain some clues to the dyeing and weaving culture. The dotted Pattern costumes were selected such as Muyongchong, No. 1 Jangcheon Tomb, Gakjeochong, Samsilchong, Ssangyeongchong, Susanri Tomb. According to a book titled ‘Hanwon’, the Goguryeo people manufactured fabrics in such a way that resist-dyed spots produced elaborate patterns over the purple fabric. It can be safely said that such dot patterns were produced by means of dyeing rather than weaving, because identical patterns aren’t well produced by means of painting and embroidery. Considering Goguryeo’s natural features, the dot patterns mentioned in historical literatures are thought to have been produced using animal’s skin. However, there is highest possibility that the dot Patterns were Produced using tie-resist dyeing or wax-resist dyeing techniques. With respect to the dyeing and weaving culture for the Goguryeo, one must refer to neighboring countries’ dyeing and weaving environments, given that the Goguryeo had engaged substantial cultural exchanges with China.

• 사물인터넷융복합논문지
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.33-38
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• 2020

2007년에 천연 염료 관련 자원, 색상, 염색 원단 등 천연 염색 정보를 쉽게 제공 할 수 있도록 모바일 어플리케이션을 설계 한 것으로 알려졌다. 천연 염색과 IoT의 연관성, 응용 등에 대한 연구가 아직 부족한만큼 다양성 천연 염색에 의한 염색 패턴 변화에 관한 정보가 필요하다. 본 연구에서는, 천연 염료, 예를 들어 Lithospermum erythrorhizon가 한국에서 전통적으로 많이 사용되어온 실크에 대하여 염색 정보를 구축하고자 했다. L. erythrorhizon에서 염료의 추출은 pH4에서 수행되었다. L. erythrorhizon의 건조 된 뿌리는 짙은 갈색을 띤 자주색을 보였다. 매염제가 없는 실크 직물은 일반적으로 보라색 염색 패턴을 보였다. 타르타르산 나트륨과 구연산으로 염색 한 실크 직물은 투명한 갈색으로 염색되었다. 흥미롭게도 황산 철 (II)의 매염제 인 실크 직물은 검은 색이 아닌 밝은 회색으로 염색되었다. 알루미늄 포타슘 설페이트의 매염제를 L. erythrorhizon 추출 염료로 처리 한 결과 매염제를 처리하지 않았을 때와 거의 동일했다. 염색도를 수치로 평가 한 결과, 중크롬산 칼륨의 매염제의 처리는 약 50% 어둡고, 황산 철 (II)에 의한 염색은 약 75% 어두웠다. 이러한 결과는 L. erythrorhizon을 이용한 다양한 염색 색 적용 연구에 도움이되며, 염색 정도와 pH 농도, 색도변화라는 염색변수에 의한 염색 컨트롤러와 데이터베이스 시스템 구축에관한 정보를 제공 할 것이다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.561-569
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• 2020

In this study, the dyeing of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne alone and the combined dyeing of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell were first performed to compare dyeing properties. A combination extract of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell can be expected to improve coloration. A Hanbok design for children used a natural dyeing fashion dyeing method to make the Chrysanthemum pattern. Chrysanthemum indicum Linne is a type of wild chrysanthemum with various medicinal effects for headache and stress relief, skin diseases, insomnia and depression. Widely used onion shells have medicinal properties that help prevent and treat various adult diseases. The colors of silk dyed exclusively by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne, and the colors of silk dyed by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extract are yellow; in addition, silk dyed by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extracts were almost all unchanged. Four hanboks, which are comfortable for children to wear and use, were produced using Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extracts. If children wear hanbok fashion products with auspicious patterns, they can provide a chance to simultaneously experience the traditional symbolism of Korean patterns and culture. In addition, it is expected to develop pride in traditional dress culture.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.268-276
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• 2002

Poly(trimethylene terephthalate)(PTT) and Poly(ethylene terephthalate)(PET) fibers were annealed at various temperatures ranging from $100^\circ{C}$ to $230^\circ{C}$ for 10 min under tension and tension free. Dyeing rates and absorption isotherms of both fibers were obtained with C.I. Disperse Red 60 at 100, 120 and $130^\circ{C}$ in water system. Also X-ray diffraction pattern, moisture regain and water absorption were investigated. The dyeing rate of PTT fiber is faster than PET fiber, and dyeing of PTT fiber begin at lower temperature compared to PET fiber. The absorption isotherms from both fibers with disperse dye we nearly linear up to the saturation dye uptake, which increase with dyeing temperature. Equilibrium dye uptake of PTT fiber annealed under tension above $180^\circ{C}$ was remarkably decreased because of a changes in the fine structure of fiber. The intensities of X-ray diffraction peaks of both annealed fibers were increased with increasing in annealed temperature. The reflections observed at $2\theta$=$15.8^\circ$, $24^\circ$ and $25.2^\circ$ were assigned reflection of crystal at the planes of (010), $(1\bar02,\;\bar112),\;and\;(\bar13,\; \bar113)$ respectively, and the peak became sharp with heat setting temperature.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제34권4호
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• pp.234-240
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• 2022

Use of processed timber can help reduce environmental damage and the economic burden of resources (important problems with use of raw timber) and can meet the needs of various fields where the sensibility of raw timber is required. Veneer wood is positioned as a high-value-added product due to its luxury and beauty, and it is used in various fields as a building-related material, such as interior decoration, furniture, flooring, building interior materials, and lumber. Dyeing is necessary to enhance the aesthetic appearance of this pattern and to expand its use. Therefore, in this study, we compared and analyzed the dye ability of oak-patterned materials with reactive dyes, and evaluated their performance as interior materials. As a result, the oak pattern was dyed with 9 kinds of reactive dyes and a comparative analysis was performed. The most suitable conditions are 50℃, 2 hours, and 0.5% o.w.f. In addition, evaluating resilience to daylight, resilience to rubbing, fire resistance, and flame retardance, yielded results suitable for use as an interior material. In this study, the dyeability of veneer dyed under various conditions using reactive dyes was compared and analyzed the performance as an interior material was evaluated.