• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1261-1274
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• 1997

Contemporary costume by the 'Deconstruction' from the outside has shown disclosure, destruction, poverty and analysis. The conclusion of this thesis as follows, 1. The Deconstruction of disclosure by infra disclosed the underwear and inner structure outside, which has deconstructed a fixed idea i.e.'underwear must be in outwear', modesty versus immodesty and disclosure versus concealment. 2. The Deconstruction of destruction originated in punk look has rejected traditional manners and utility, at the same time, it has shown the ambivalence i.e. completeness versus incompleteness, making versus destructing by slashes, rips, fringes. 3. The Deconstruction of poverty has appeared as French avangarde mode, little black dress by Chanel, second hand style by hippy, blue jean, granny look, especially Rei Kawakubo's poor look influenced by Zen Aesthetics and post punk. It has looked like old and worn out dress by doing patchwork, dye, decolor, rip, fray, which has shown the decentring by concealing the body than disclosing, rejecting snobbery. 4. The Deconstruction of analysis, seemingly partial and patched is a violation only of our expectation of clothing's unbroken entity though it has looked like a fragment. The completeness and coherence of it is made more evident by its breach, void, and bond like a poetic language. As the result, disclosed, destructed, poor, and analytical costumes has expressed as an escape from the appearance which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.39-49
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• 2012

This study looked into the trend of expression of animal motifs that appears in modern fashion, and the values embedded in them. As to the research method, empirical analysis was performed on the works presented at the four global collections of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2001S/S to 2010F/W, as well as a literature review. As a result, animal motifs applied in modern fashion appeared in material groups, such as leather or feather. The first group shows a realistic material feel, with artificial leather or fur, expressed in a transformed complex animal motif, with process skill or various methods of expression. The second group is the case of a single motif or reality, mode, and ion pattern. Printing is a generic expression, but patchwork, collage or bead ornament are also used, and expressed in the various forms of pattern: pattern in a single animal, pattern in different animals, and pattern combining both animal and other shape. The third group is a small decorative ornament, including headset or accessory and makeup, which is transformed in an animal-characterized motif into part of clothing components for expression, or to set the real animal to the stage for a performance. The embedded values were also categorized as natural beauty, sensual female beauty, pleasure, and ornamentation, which could be an endless spiritual source, and a breakthrough that enables us to show a creative and new aesthetic for the modern fashion field.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.957-969
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• 2011

This study intended to analyze the grunge look as a mode of expression and as a characteristic of the fashion of the 21st century, arguing that the look expressed not only an outward appearance or sub-culture but also a change in our attitude and spirit about contemporary fashion. In the study, I carried out an empirical analysis focused on the collection from 2001S/S to 2010F/W and a literature review. In my results, I classified the grunge look into the following categories: 1. mix and match layering; 2. patchwork, collages, and assemblage using all objects as well as clothing materials; and 3. distressing techniques, such as bleaching and dyeing, unweaving, and tears and holes. I also classified the characteristics of grunge into the following categories: 1. conspicuous destitution, which is intentionally expressed by skillful techniques and craftsmanship, indicating that modern people want to attract attention and be distinguished from others, which reflects an attitude of superiority through ironic fashion choices; 2. high lighting the dissolution of decoration, where destruction, poverty and recombination shown in the grunge look emerged as an artificial and intentional ugly aesthetic in contrast to the existing elegant and sophisticated image; and 3. satire and playfulness, as grunge expresses alienation and conflict in modern society through satire and sarcasm, not attacking or avoiding, but through playful and sarcastic engagement so as to decrease poverty and give temporary freedom.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.654-665
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• 2019

The process of clothing production creates waste and scrap, which creates environmental, economic, and ethical issues. With this in mind the concept of ethical and sustainable fashion is discussed on many platforms as an important and timely topic. Many solutions have been presented on this subject. For the solution of this problem which has been increasing in the fashion and textile industry, the usage of sustainable materials and production methods is needed. There in a 'recyclable material cycle' should be adapted, instead of a 'traditional material cycle'. New methods and techniques should be developed with multi-disciplinary design approaches to produce creative and high value-added products in the name of fashion and sustainability. This is seen as one of the more effective solutions. This study aims to show that production scraps can be transformed into timely clothing designs with samples. The fabric scraps from different brands were turned into unique clothing designs with up to date trends by designer. In the practices completed while following the design process, collage and patchwork techniques were applied depending on the characteristics of the scrap fabric, artistic figures were hand-stitched onto the design. With this study, the scraps that get thrown into dumping grounds and damage the ecosystem can turn into ethical and economic benefits for the manufacturer. How to choose new high value-added products and create an awareness of social responsibility is also shown with examples in this study.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.71-82
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• 2011

This paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather and also analyzed the expression techniques and characteristics of leather in contemporary fashion. The objective of this study lies in re-interpreting the current location of leather in contemporary fashion design, enlarging unlimited potential expression fields of leather, and at the same time, helping create new viewpoints and expression types of leather. For this purpose, this paper examined the kinds and characteristics of leather through the existing literatures, and it also carried out positive analysis of the expression techniques and characteristics of leather clothes through local and foreign fashion magazines and collection papers, such as Gap, Vogue, and Mode & Mode, focusing on the works presented in the fashion collections after 2000. Leather in contemporary fashion is expressed in different colors through dyeing. Through various expression techniques such as wrinkles, ruffle, stitch, embossing, quilting, patchwork, holing, nailing, cutting, laser cutting, fringe, weaving, printing, and collage, leather breaks the fixed ideas of itself and further, it makes the images of fashion design affluent. Leather clothes, which are made through various expression techniques, have some characteristics. First, leather clothes emphasize women's voluptuous beauty. Second, leather clothes create a decorative effect through mixture of materials and various expression techniques. Third, through the feel of materials and the emphasis of shapes, primitive beauty is expressed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.336-352
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• 2019

This study examines the characteristics of expressing hippie styles in contemporary women's collections and analyzes them to benefit future fashion design and research. This study reviewed advanced research, fashion magazines, and information providers. The advanced research determined the study's scope by pinpointing the designers who introduced the hippie style into their collections. The results are as follows: First, the reproduced hippie style appears as the combination of various colors and materials, a convergence or mixture of styles, or the use of collage or patchwork. It employs natural silhouettes or varied colors and materials, which makes the renewed hippie style more luxurious than in the past. Second, the reproduced hippie style emphasizes and distinguishes between two types of femininity: a girlish, romantic image using A-line silhouettes and, bright, gleaming colors, and a sexy version that boldly exposes the body or women's curves and, uses soft and flexible materials. Third, the exotic tendencies found in the reproduced hippie style reflect the characteristics of the times, folk costume, or eastern or western features perceived as exotic. Recently, traditional costumes have changed slightly to recall characteristics found in the past. Fourth, the reproduced hippie style reflects hippies' affection for and interest in nature by using environmentally-friendly materials like natural fibers. Flowers, the symbol of hippies, appear most frequently.

• Archives of Plastic Surgery
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.453-456
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• 2022

When the scrotal sac is entirely debrided following a Fournier gangrene, testes exposure poses unique challenges for the reconstructive surgeon. Despite the anterolateral thigh (ALT) flap is considered a workhorse in such context, aesthetic results are often suboptimal because of the lack of natural ptosis and patchwork appearance. We describe the use of a super-thin pedicled ALT flap for total scrotal reconstruction, modified according to a peculiar flap design and inset technique. A 42-year-old man was referred to our department for delayed total scrotal reconstruction 8 months after a Fournier gangrene extensive debridement. A super-thin pedicled ALT flap from the right thigh was designed: in the central portion of the ALT, a lateral skin paddle extension was marked to guarantee adequate posterior anchorage during insetting and ptosis of the scrotal sac. This particular flap arrangement has inspired the name "sombrero" as the shape is akin to the famous hat. No secondary refinements were needed, and the patient showed satisfying aesthetic and functional results at 12 months' follow-up. The ALT flap design "sombrero" modification proposed in this article can improve scrotum cosmesis and patient satisfaction in a single-stage single-flap procedure.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.75-95
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• 2023

This study aims to investigate the color characteristics and utilization of Amekaji fashion in the domestic casual market, with a focus on menswear. A total of 1,882 color data were extracted from 11 representative brands of Amekaji. This results of the study showed that PB, Bk, YR, and Y colors were highly utilized in the overall color, and dkg, g, ltg, and p tones were highly utilized. In particular, R color was highly utilized in the point color, as it was developed into six tones, including v, with high saturation. The analysis by the brand showed that the highest number of colors were extracted from 'Kapital', which is famous for its vintage-style patchwork and dyeing, and that 'PB' and 'Bk' were heavily utilized. By the item, PB colors were mainly utilized for denim, and shirts were diversified with 9 tones. W, a neutral color, was mainly used on clothing tops such as shirts, knits, and T-shirts. This study provides valuable insights into the color sensitivity of Amekaji fashion, which can be used as a useful resource for design development and product planning in the industry. As a future study, we suggest analysis of the utilization of Amekaji colors in the Korean men's casual market along with American and Japanese brands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.3_4 s.141
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• pp.449-461
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to rediscover the hidden value of non-mainstreamers style which has been overlooked for the past decade by investigate the aesthetics and formative features of the Grunge fashion. The Grunge fashion was derived from explosive popularity of the early 90's grunge music. Grunge was the alternative anti-thesis against mainstream pop music and anti-fashion against mainstream fashion. Dirty, rubbish grunge style of the poor street youth and grunge musicians have raised to the high fashion by designers. And These trial of designers made people to notice the value of the non-mainstreamers street style like grunge. Actually, the grunge brought the shock with many argument to the 90's fashion field. But now, It became the classic of the street fashion. And It has potent influence on the music, culture and high fashion. The Grunge is a kind of links between music and fashion, street fashion and high fashion, sub culture and mainstream culture, the past and now. Grunge isn't only a fashion of appearance. It is the attitude of wearing clothes and living a life. Variety grunge style in the international street fashion, high fashion, typical musicians's fashion of the 1990's and the 2000's was researched for this study. These materials were gathered from music magazines, fashion magazines, movies, musics and books. As a results of analysis, Grunge has the formative features like mix & match, layering, patchwork, primitive edge, rag, retro, recycle, kinderwhore, sneer scribbling, disheveled hair. Grunge also has the Aesthetic features like the beauty of $disorder{\cdot}\;disharmony{\cdot}\;incompleteness{\cdot}\;kitsch{\cdot}\;poverty{\cdot}\;alternative{\cdot}\;eclectic{\cdot}$symbiosis. For the last 10 years, These features changed our fashion be more pluralistic and dynamic.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.79-93
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze designs of exhibition clothing in terms of the use of Korean image, to review objectively contents about the use of traditional image, understand external elements of works, and give directions and basic data for future works. This study selected the total 250 works as the subject of this study among the collected data. This study classified and examined the use of Korean image found in exhibition clothing according to period, item, line and form, material, technique of expression and accessary between 1996 and 2004. The results of analysis are as follows (1) The most artworks were comprised in adaptation were Choson costume. (2) Most of them were clothing works for female. The item of chima were the most preferred in use. (3) The straight lines are used more frequently than curved lines. Forms of skirts were applied to those of silhouettes, H and A form were common. (4) In terms of materials, traditional materials such as silk, linen and cotton were commonly used. (5) Geometric patterns and plant pattern were found more often than others. (6) In terms of techniques of expression, patchwork was most frequent, quilting, embroidery and pleating were ranked second, third and fourth. (7) In accessaries and other item, gorom were most common and norigae were ranked second. (8) As Korean image has been expressed by fine parts of traditional costumes, the traditional living item, and local symbols, the range of works are becoming wider.