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파워 숄더 재킷의 조형적 특성과 시각적 이미지 (A Study on the Formative Characteristic and Visual Image of the Power Shouldered Jacket)

  • 김정미;이정순
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제11권3호
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    • pp.125-134
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of power-shoulder jacket shown in 08/09 F/W and 09/10 F/W London, Paris, Milan, New York collection and extract main expression words for development of semantic differential scales of visual image according to the change in shoulder angle and width of power-shoulder jacket. The result of this study is as follows. Power-shoulder jacket which were worn by 1980 business women have similar cutting with men's suit jacket, but have characteristics of exaggerating the body figure as exaggerated shoulder with pad and tight waist like an inverted triangle silhouette. Power-shoulder jackets shown in collections used glossy and glittering material and dark colors and formed slim silhouette with matches of shoulder line of temperate senses and casual wear. Like this, the power-shoulder jacket was expanded to daily casual wear from traditional formal wear. Main expression words of visual image of jackets according to the changes in angle and width of shoulder differ greatly depending on the expansion degree of angle and width of shoulder. Changes in shoulder angle may look tense, stiff and too much according to the amount of changes. However, it also has the image of sharp but dignified and charismatic. Also, it helps to show body figure more efficiently like being slim and looking taller. Related to the current trend emphasizing shoulder among women, it is evaluated to be stylish and trendy. When the expansion degree is not too much, changes in shoulder width partly show slim and slender waist under the influence of wider shoulder with basic tailored jacket image. However, when the expansion degree is enlarged, image related to the body figure is more definite compared to other visual images.

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아코디언 플리츠 스커트의 조형적 특성과 시각적 이미지 (A Study on the Formative Characteristic and Visual Image of the Accordion Pleats Skirt)

  • 이정순
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제13권3호
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    • pp.89-103
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of accordion pleats shown in 10/11 S/S London, Paris, New York collection and evaluate the differences of visual image by variations in the width of pleats and the length of the accordion pleats skirt. The stimuli are 21 samples: 7 variations of the width of pleats and 3 variations of the length of skirt. The data has been obtained from 43 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test. The results of the study are as follows: Accordion pleats was first introduced by Marriano Fortuny. He published delphos dress by creating silk pleats manufacturing technique and it was recognized as the best pleats work. Since then, pleats with synthetic fiber characteristics were used by many fashion designers. Accordion pleats were used in various items including one-peice, skirt and pants in collection of 2010 and 2011. The design of accordion pleats skirt used different width of pleats, length of the skirt and materials. The visual image by the width of pleats and the length of skirt are composed of 3 factors : dearness, attractiveness and elegance. In these factors, dearness factor is estimated by the most important factor. The accordion p1eats skirt is most attractive and dear when the width of pleats is the shortest, 1/8", and the width of 4/8" and 5/8" follows. The accordion pleats skirt is most attractive and dear when the length of skirt is similar to that of mini-skirt, and the skirt was estimated to be elegant as the skirt gets longer. When the length of skirt is in between, the skirts were estimated to be ambiguous in all visual images. The interaction effect of visual image according to the changes in width of pleats and skirt length of accordion pleats skirt was seemed to have significant differences by factors, and the main effect had great differences in all factors.

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디지털 시대 패션 브랜드 버버리(Burberry)의 'See now, Buy now'에 대한 연구 (A study on 'See now, Buy now', the latest trend of the new supply chain management of a luxury fashion brand, Burberry in the digital era)

  • 윤세나;곽태기
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제22권2호
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    • pp.29-43
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    • 2020
  • This study investigated the luxury supply chain management called 'See now, Buy now'. This has been a new way of controlling the supply and demand for luxury brands in the fashion industry since 2016. In this study, we explored the backgrounds and impacts of 'See now, Buy now' in the digital era. 'See now, Buy now' was launched by the fashion brand, Burberry in February 2016. It was the first luxury brand to showcase its entire collection using 'See now, Buy now' among the brands which showcase in Paris, Milan, New York, and London fashion weeks. That has not only caused many controversies in the fashion world but also generated followers. In this study, we analyzed 'See now, Buy now' in three aspects, economics, efficiency, and management strategy, and this was done through a literature survey on articles pertaining to 'See now, Buy now' and empirical surveys on Burberry's collections. Based on 'See now, Buy now', Burberry tried a new process of supply and sale. In the era of SNS, the spread of information is getting faster. The speed of SNS and changes in the fashion market combining IT and mobile technology are major changes faced by the fashion industry. 'See now, Buy now', a model of the new supply and demand in luxury fashion brands, should be noted as a new directional aspect for the future of the fashion industry. Since it was a relatively recent trend that started from the September show of Burberry in 2016, there was still a lack of academic discussion or prior research on this phenomenon. Therefore this study aimed to predict future directions by recognizing the importance of 'See now, Buy now' in the fashion industry. Also, based on this research, the significance of this study was to present a management strategy that applies 'See now, Buy now' to the future of the fashion industry in the digital era.

UCP 600의 주요개정 내용 및 실무적용상의 문제점에 대한 관한 연구 (Critical Revision Issue and The Problems Appling in Practical Operation for UCP 600)

  • 양의동
    • 통상정보연구
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    • 제9권1호
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    • pp.381-399
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    • 2007
  • UCP 600 will now come into effect on 1 July 2007, giving practitioners more than six months to prepare for the change. The vote on the UCP was also a favourable vote on eUCP Version 1.1 which was amended to bring it into conformity with the new rules. ICC Banking commission unanimeusly approved the revised UCP 600 on 26 October 2006 in paris convention. The most important revision of UCP600 have altered the technical and difficult to understand wording of UCP500 into plain simple precise and concise language, The singuler achievement of UCP600 is its elimination of phrase like "reasonable care" "reasonable time" and "an it's face" from the rule. The introduction of separate articles 2 and 3 on "Definitions" and "Interpretation" which contain the concept of "honour" along with the inclusion of certain ISBP wording in UCP, should bring about far greater clarity and precision than in many of the contentions articles in UCP500. The definition of negotiation should help lay to rest the controversies surrounding the terms of negotiation. The removal of reasonable time and the replacement by five banking days should speed the process and make L/Cs more attractive in the market, nevertheless UCP600 have many problems in appling it in practical field. For example the definition of credit, negotiation and purchase it's accepted or undertaken payment draft by accepting bank or deferred payment bank, the second advising bark's position etc. so, I will introduce in this thesis the important revised articles of UCP600 and investigate the problems in applying it in practicle field with reference to the specialist's opinion of the practical field and ICC opinions of drafting Group.

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아키그램 건축에서 나타나는 유기적 특징과 비유기적 특징의 통합에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Fusion between Organic and Inorganic Characteristics in the Works of Archigram)

  • 권제중
    • 건축역사연구
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    • 제19권1호
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    • pp.27-50
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    • 2010
  • This paper was to analyze the fusion between the organic and inorganic characteristics performed in architecture and urbanism, especially on the characteristics found in the works of Archigram group who was very active during 1960s and 70s. Generally, it was thought that Archigram drew its ideas mainly from a mechanist metaphor and that the diagrams of its members were based on the notion of the material obsolescence, which could be placed in a British tectonic tradition. But, Archigram's works has been continually influenced by the biological-organic analogy from the birth of the group to its dissolution. Simply, the importance that the biological-organic analogy takes in the works of Archigram has changed periodically according to the change of its members. We can divide generally Archigram group in two parts : on one hand, nascent members such as Peter Cook, Dennis Greene, Michael Webb ; on the another hand, three members who participated from LCC such as Warren Chalk, Ron Herron, Dennis Crompton. As the new three LCC members participated, Archigram Group focalized on the technological part more than ever. But, when its members dispersed geographically and professionally, its biological-organic analogy came out again at the surface of their works. However, Archigram's organic and inorganic characteristics did not always adhere in opposing position with each other and took the form of coexistence in harmony at the same period. That is, the works of Archigram were persuing the creation of community that nature, technology and architecture could communicate and harmonize with each other through the intergration between organic and inorganic characteristics. The reason why Archigram became the one of the most excellent architectural avant-garde group in the 60s was mainly to receive asssitance with the fact that two small groups having contradictory tendencies got together and formed the Archigram group.

소비 행동에 따른 동영상 컨텐츠 소비자 유형 구분과 특징 (Digital Contents Consumption and Consumer Characteristics)

  • 황상민;김지연;류기태
    • 한국HCI학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국HCI학회 2008년도 학술대회 2부
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    • pp.629-633
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    • 2008
  • 한국 사회에서 동영상 컨텐츠와 UCC 는 새로운 문화 현상이면서 광고 도구로써 많은 기대를 받고 있는 동시에 한편으로 수익성 모델 부재 및 저작권 등의 문제를 안고 있다. 이에 본 연구는 동영상 컨텐츠 및 UCC 사용자들의 유형을 파악함으로써 UCC 서비스의 성격이 무엇인가를 확인하면서, UCC 서비스가 소비자 에게 유의미한 상품의 하나로 수용되는 기제를 설명하고자 한다. 연구 대상이 된 사이트는 국내 대표적인 UCC 사이트이자 개인 방송국 서비스 제공하는 포탈이다. 연구방법은 사용자들이 보이는 활동을 기준으로 사용자들을 구분하고, 이를 통해서 각 사용자 유형이 보이는 주요 이용 행동 특성과 핵심 가치를 탐색하였다. 총 96개의 사용 행동 문항을 사용하였으며 연구참여자는 39명이었다. 분석 결과 라이브 동영상 서비스의 특성을 가진 UCC 서비스의 경우, '깍쟁이', 'B급 연예인', '시청자', '야심가', '휴머니스트', '패리스 힐튼' 총 6유형의 사용자집단이 있다는 것을 확인하였다. 각각의 사용자유형은 동영상 컨텐츠를 각기 다른 방식으로 활용할 뿐 아니라 동영상 서비스에 부여하는 가치도 달랐다. 본 연구는 동영상 컨텐츠나 UCC 시장에서 핵심 소비자이 누구이며, 이것을 기반으로 유의미한 비즈니스 모델을 설정할 수 있는 전략 포인트를 제공할 수 있을 것이다.

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현대 여성 패션에 나타난 색채 코디네이션의 유형과 유형별 특성 분석 (The Types of Color Coordination and Their Characteristics In Contemporary Women′s Fashion)

  • 권혜숙;심은아
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제6권3호
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    • pp.139-152
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    • 2004
  • The main objective of this research is to investigate the color coordination types and their characteristics of contemporary female fashion by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' of four collections (i.e., cities) - Paris, Milan, New York, London - from the periods of 2000 S/S to 2002/3 A/W. Through the review of various books and articles written on the subject, the color coordination types and their characteristics were categorized and defined. The data was collected by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' magazine and total 4,269 observations were made. These in turn were categorized into eight color coordination and three color tone categories through the content analysis. Frequency analysis was used to analyse the data. The findings are as follows; First of all, there were 8 observable color coordination categories in contemporary women's fashion. The most used color coordination was chromatic & achromatic color coordination. It was followed by chromatic identical, and then by achromatic identical color coordination. These three color coordinations were the majority, comprizing 73.4% of the total. The rest were in the order of complementary, gradation, similarity, accent. And the most used tone type was contrasting tone and followed by similar and identical. Next, the analysis of each coordination categories shows that; The chromatic identical coordination focused on presenting its own unity or break it using the contrasting color tone. Meanwhile, the achromatic identical coordination project a clean and strong feeling through black and white combination or a subtle feeling through the different material combination. The chromatic & achromatic coordination showed strong colors and contrasting tones of clear and bright colors. Meanwhile, the characteristics of complementary coordinations are that these coordinations seem to free the colors and show the subtle changes in tones very clearly. The gradation coordination was used to create a cool and lively feeling. Next, the similarity coordination seems to create feminine and warm feeling by taking advantage of similar color feelings, often through the use of warm to warm, cool to cool color matching. Lastly, the accent coordination, through the use of contrasting tones emphasizes the differences in colors, while separation coordination mostly uses black and white on various color coordinations.

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패션잡지광고에 표현된 패션 아이템 경향 분석 (The Analysis of Fashion Item Trend Expressed in Fashion Magazine Advertising)

  • 이은숙
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제9권1호
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    • pp.123-140
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    • 2007
  • Fashion magazine advertising is the most excellent source of information in predicting the fashion trend. It plays a pivotal role in setting a direction for the fashion trend in the upcoming season. The purpose of this study was to review by photos of the $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}-porter$ collection shown in LONDON, NEW YORK, MILAN, and PARIS during 2002-2006 A/W and 2003-2005 S/S seasons, being focused on such fashion items published as coat, dress, one-piece, two-pieces(jacket+skirt/pants, blouse+skirt/pants). In the results of this study, designers presented coat(n=144) chiefly, blouse+pants(n=29) were presented few during 2002-2003 A/W seasons. During 2003-2004 A/W seasons one-piece(n=156) was looking bullish, blouse+pants(n=34) were declining. Dress(n=149) was presented mostly, blouse+pants(n=17) was presented few during 2004-2005 A/W seasons. During 2005-2006 A/W seasons coat(n=180) was revived, blouse+pants(n=26) were presented lowly. Therefore designers presented coat(n=605, 28.4%) extremely much during 2002-2006 A/W seasons. Designers presented one-piece(n=109) much, jacket+pants(n=22) were presented few in 2003 S/S. In 2004 S/S seasons one-piece(n=167) was presented vastly different than jacket+pants(n=42). Also one-piece(n=152) was presented mostly, blouse+pants(n=48) was presented few in 2005 S/S seasons. During 2003-2005 S/S seasons one-piece(n=428, 28.2%) was presented most. And designers in these four world fashion centers didn't prefer blouse+pants in A/W seasons and jacket+pants in S/S seasons. Based on the above findings, it could be confirmed that the fashion items trend was almost similar among the four collections of $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}-porter$. The results of this study suggest that the fashion collections are the most reliable information sources for fashion product planning. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will provide for some useful basic data for domestic fashion businesses in producing fashion items.

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현대 데님 패션에 나타난 조형적 특징과 미적 특성 연구 - 2001년 이후 여성 컬렉션을 중심으로 - (A Study on the Formative Characteristics and the Aesthetic Characteristics in Denim Fashion - Women's Collections Since 2001 -)

  • 김정미
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제16권1호
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    • pp.27-39
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    • 2014
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.

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미국 캘리포니아의 와인생산 클러스터에 관한 연구: 나파.소노마 지역을 사례로 (Regional Innovation Systems of the California Wine Cluster: the Case of Napa and Sonoma)

  • 신동호
    • 한국경제지리학회지
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    • 제11권1호
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    • pp.130-147
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    • 2008
  • 1770년대에 스페인의 선교사들이 캘리포니아에서 종교적 의식에 사용할 목적으로 포도를 재배하고 포도주를 생산하기 시작했고, 그로부터 100년이 지난 후 캘리포니아에서 상업적 목적의 포도주 생산이 시작되었다. 미국은 이제 프랑스, 이탈리아, 호주 다음 가는 포도주 생산국이 되었으며, 캘리포니아는 미국 포도주 생산의 95%를 차지하게 되었다. 또한 캘리포니아 포도재배 및 포도주 생산기술은 1970년대 초반부터 세계적인 수준에 이르렀음이 확인되었다. 이러한 캘리포니아 포도주 생산의 중심에는 나파와 소노마가 있다. 나파와 소노마에는 포도재배 및 포도주 생산, 그리고 와인투어 등, 1차, 2차, 3차 산업을 통합하는 의미 있는 와인산업 클러스터가 조성되어 있다. 본 연구는 지역혁신체제론에 입각한 분석틀에 기초하여 나파와 소노마의 와인산업 클러스터의 성장과정과 혁신주체, 그리고 그들이 형성하고 있는 거버넌스를 규명하고, 정책적 시사점을 도출한다.

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