• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.38-48
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• 2005

This study is consider·ed about the relation or costume among Parhae, ancient Japan and Tang and the culture of this time commonly was influenced by Tang;s culture. The recorded items, which were exchanged from Parhae to Tang and ancient Japan, are the pelt of marten, seal, bear and tiger skin or Ammowhaha(암모화) Gu(구) and so on. Other items from Tang and ancient Japan to Parhae are various clothes and material like silk and so on. This Parhae's clothes made with leather obtained through hunting were the main product of Parhae and had been greatly famous in Tang and ancient Japan. At that time, Tang and ancient Japan had been only dependent on the agricultural life but had not been accustomed to the hunting life, and thereupon, the people in Tang and Nara Era had difficulties to get leather clothes. Accordingly, the leather products stood for the rich, and the people who purchased the leather products from Parhae were recognized as the rich. On the other hand, The prince and the royal family in Parhae were dispatched to Tang as Sooktwui(숙위). They paid a tribute to Tang and In return for it, Tang gave to Sookwui as well as to Parhae's envoys various items and clothes such as Po(포), belt(대), gold and silver Eodae(어대) and textile like a type of silk. These clothes were considered as the formal uniform like Kwanbok(관복) of Parhae. Specially, the time when Sookwui was sent to Tang rot-responded with the time when Tang gave formal uniform to Parhae's envoys. Therefore, we can confirm that the sending of Sookwui influenced to form uniform system of Parhae. In this exchange relation, there were several duplicated items showed, for example Po(포)-belt(대), Eui set(의일습), Eoeui(어의), Jobok(조복), Go(고). These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Tang to Parhae. At that time, the exchanges between Tang and Parhae were frequently active much more than those between Tang and Japan, and the acceptance of the culture from Tang was easier in Parhae than Japan in consideration of the geographical location. Therefore, those clothes could be understood as the items already used in Parhae and affected from Tang. These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Japan to Parhae. As a result, it is expected that the costumes, which Parhae took from Japan, are the same as those of Tang.

• 복식
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• 제53권6호
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• pp.45-61
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• 2003

Parhae and ancient Japan officially exchanged at 34 times during the period from AD.727 to AD.920. The envoys of each nation also sent the other nation with some items. The names of the items are identified by the historical records; those which Parhae presented to ancient Japan were leader shoes, which is called AmMoHwa(암모화), belt(대) various leaders and those which ancient Japan presented to Parhae were formal uniforms[관복], various textiles, coronet, shoes. We can recognize that the leader items of Parhae are frequently recorded as the gift to ancient Japan because they were the main manufactures in Parhae at that time. In addition, the government of ancient Japan gave the Parhae's envoys a high rank, five-grade(5위) and noble costumes like JinKaeEui(진개의) and so on were well-matched with their high rank. While being official exchanges, it is supposed that there were lots of other unofficial exchanges. Historically, in Japan, the time came under Nara(나양) era(AD.719~AD.794) and the beginning of PyungAn(평안) era(AD.794~AD.1192) and in the same way in Parhae, King Mun(737-793) reign. One of the features at that time is that Tang's culture was introduced to ancient Japan positively. Since Nara era strongly accepted Tang's culture, I assume that Nara costumes were affected by Tang's therefore they are the same as Tang's. In the same way, Parhae's costumes are the same as Tang's, too. The point is, it is expected that the costumes of Parhae which were exchanged with ancient Japan are similar to those of Nara by the medium of Tang's costumes.

• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.180-201
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• 2009

I scrutinized the idea that Parhae Marek was inherited from Kokuryo which was presented in "The study on the Marek" published in the journal of the Korean Society of Costume 55-5, and concluded the following results: 1. The Marek which Samguk sagi recorded is the red head scarf used for dancers who do Koguryo dance in the Babarian Music System in Tang dynasty. Since its original record Tong dian tells that Kokuryo performers' costumes then had strikingly changed and Quichi and GaoChang dancers also wore Marek, so the idea that Marek was originated from Koguryo should be reconsidered. 2. Considering the Yaksoori mural's indistinguishable condition as well as the same scenes from other Kokuryo mural paintings, I can't evidently tell that the first person who carries shouldering drum puts Marek on. 3. should be pronounced [Mal] for the meaning of a head scarf and its definition can't be limited only for the sash type. 4. Diverse historical data on head scarves deny the assumption that the sash type of hairband would have been succeeded from Kokuryo to the Parhae Marek. 5. The Marek of Princess Junghyo's mural painting can be an example that shows the costume of Tang influenced Parhae's. But the similarity in styles of costume between contemporary countries doesn't mean their reciprocal racial or political identity.

• 복식
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• 제50권3호
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• pp.43-58
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• 2000

This study is an analysis on the costumes of two statuettes of standing women made with three colored cermai excavated from Parhae tomb in Shiguo(석국), Chilin province(길림성), China. These statuettes wear similar clothing ; A narrow sleeved under-blouse with a decollette neckline and a long skirt tied above the bosom. But their hairstyles are quite different ; one has a bun top of the head which tipped slightly forward. the other has two buns with two loops near ears. Their shoes are a little different: in the former the top of the shoes are a little crooked, but in the latter they are high-fronted and more crooked. These two statueettes are valueable and unique source which demonstrates the female costumes of Parhae dynasty, and at the same time which accounts for the acceptance and assimilation of costumes of Tang dynasty. Base upon the analysis on their costumes, hairstyles , and their expressions of the body shape, two statuettes seem to be made after the early 8th century.

• 복식
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• 제57권9호
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• pp.16-31
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• 2007

This study is about the costume depicted upon the fraction of fresco which was excavated from Kumseong-li, Hwadae-Gun, Hamkyungbuk-Do, North Korea in 2004. According to the characteristics of its relics, this tomb was reported to belong to Parhae Dynasty(698-926). The fraction of fresco only shows below part of the knees of a man. A light red colored robe reaches down to his ankles on the back, whereas front part of it looks tucked up, which is likely to have slits on both side seams. Although tightly wrapped shins were reported as a pair of gaiters, there is no decisive evidence on the fresco. I suggest another possibility that this man wore slim pants. Also in order to figure out if these shins are considered as gaiters, I proceed comparative research on the historical sources about gaiters of countries and eras adjacent to Parhae. Consequently the idea that people of Parhae might have used gaiters turned out to be acceptable. The black boots show rather basic style: the toe tips are not pointed up, boot leg doesn't look either wide or long. These boots can not be identified with Ammohwa(暗摸靴) which the envoy Yang(楊) gave the protocol Miyakoyoshika(都良香) at his official visit to Japan, because Ammohwa has not yet been properly defined.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2004년도 The 21st International Costume Congress
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• pp.202-212
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• 2004

• 복식
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• 제55권5호
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• pp.78-86
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• 2005

Marek(말액) is the headgear, which is a form of hempen hoods[Geon(건)] and the origin of it is Pa(파) of band form. A history book of an old Chinese country Post-Han $\ll$ History of HouHan (후한서)$\gg$ had recorded that a soldier wore a red band around his head that was called Pa(파). In the Han dynasty(한대), Pa had been transformed into Chaek(책) or a kind of a hemp rap(건) while e headgear had still remained as the band form and called Marek from e Tang era(당). The literatures of the Tang era had referred the red Marek of soldiers, and other literatures of the later period had recorded that of the previous headgears of the band form were related with Marek. Since the Tang era, white or yellow Marek except red one fer soldiers had been were by soldiers, musicians, dancers and singers in Yuan(원) and Ming(명) of China. The colors was recorded in red on documents mostly, this red implicated soldiers for symbol of terror. This fart was documented in an old history book $\ll$The history of 25 Eras(이십오사)$\gg$, On the other side, a wall painting in Princess Jeonghyo(정효공주)'s tomb of the Parhae(발해) period described the portraits of twelve persons, and among them, two Siwui(시위) put on the red Marek. Quoted from the record of a history book of the Tang era system , a history book of Three Kingdoms(삼국시대) of ancient Korea $\ll$Samguksaki(삼국사기)$\gg$ described that four dancers of Kogryo(고구려) wore Marek on their heads with the costumes of Koguryo, one of those Kingdoms. In consideration that the book of $\ll$Tongjun$\gg$ was the literature of the Tang era so that Marek mentioned in this book was followed by their name, the Marek of Koguryo dancers shown in the history book $\ll$Samguksaki(삼국사기)$\gg$ might be a kind of Koguryo style hemp cap[Geon(건)]. The Marek of Parhae had succeeded to the headgear of Koguryo and the identity was on Koguryo.

• 한국지역지리학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.497-510
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• 2004

본 연구는 우리나라 대표적인 연행기로 알려져 있는 열하일기 내용 가운데 "도하록(渡河錄)", "감경잡식(監京雜識)", "일신수필(馹迅隨筆)"의 세편을 대상으로 지리적 인식측면에서 접근한 첫 연구이다. 연구목적은 18세기 후반 저명한 실학자인 박지원의 눈을 통한 중국(당시 청나라)의 자연지리적 문화지리적 지역지리적 인식은 어떠했나를 살피고자 했다. 청나라에 대한 기후와 날씨, 산세에 대한 인식과 압록강, 백두산, 안시성, 발해, 평양 등의 지명 유래설명을 통해 연암의 해박하고 정확한 자연지리적 인식을 알 수 있다. 청나라 다양한 계층의 사람들과 그들 복장에 대한 묘사를 통해 문화지리적 인식을 알 수 있고, 요동시가지와 산해관을 둘러보면서 서술한 지역지리적 인식은 지리학자의 날카로운 눈을 연상케 한다. 박지원의 열하일기를 통해 본 청나라의 지리적 인식을 통해, 당시의 청조(淸朝)는 조선사회의 문화, 제도를 크게 앞선 선진지역임을 확인할 수 있고, 따라서 연암은 실학적 사고를 통해 앞선 문물을 배우고 소화시켜 우리 것을 선진화시킬 것을 강조하고 있다.

• 복식
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.59-68
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• 2007

It seems that Balhae(渤海) had built up its national power through the international relationship from the early years of an establishment of a dynasty. And the envoys that were sent with the official duties dressed up the official uniform for a diplomatic courtesy. Accordingly, this study will be considered about the official uniform in the early years of the Balhae era. The system of the official uniform of Balhae was classified into two form as the starting from $739\sim742$ A.D. The official uniform of the early years of the Balhae($698\sim739$ A.D.) was based on the costume of the three Kingdoms[三國時代], that is, Yu, Go(待), Jo-u-gwan(鳥羽冠). These results were available owing to the reasons that the Balhaehad succeeded the culture of Go-gu-ryo(高句麗), which was the basis for the development of Parhae's own culture, and the most of the governing group and the ruling class in Balhaewere the drifting people from Go-gu-ryo. After that, which the 3th King Mun(文王), acrepted the Tang's culture positively, assumed the reins of government ascended the throne and the brisk exchange with Tang(唐) by the envoys and Suk-wui(宿衛) were dispatched to Tang, the official uniform of the Balhaewas transformed into the system of Tang. This system was similar to that of Tang in point of using a four colors and the items as Danryeong(團領), Bokdu.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제39권
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• pp.351-378
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• 2006

매체의 발달과 함께 무형문화재에 대한 기록도 여러 가지 방법으로 시도되고 있는데, 과거에는 문자 기록에만 의존하던 것에서 최근에는 사진, 음원 및 영상 등을 많이 활용하게 되었고, 그 방식에 있어서도 아날로그 방식에서 디지털 방식으로 이행하고 있는 추세이다. 이러한 변화의 과정에서 모션캡쳐를 이용한 무형문화재의 기록은 3차원적 기록을 필요로 하는 무용종목 등에서 주목을 받고 있다. 모션캡쳐란 움직이는 물체에 공간상의 위치를 표시하는 센서를 부탁시키고 시간의 흐름에 따라 센서의 위치를 컴퓨터의 좌표공간에 치환하여 기록하는 시스템으로, 모션캡쳐를 이용한 무형문화재의 기록은 형체가 없이 사람의 기예에 의해서 전승되고 있는 무형문화재의 신체적 표현을 디지털화 된 데이터로 나타내줌으써 무형문화재의 보존을 위한 과학적 자료를 제공해 준다. 국립문화재연구소는 멀티미디어 및 디지털 시대에 대응하기 위해 무형문화재에 대한 새로운 기록방안 개발을 목적으로 영화 및 게임 등의 CG제작 현장에서 널리 사용되고 있는 모션캡쳐(Motion Capture) 장비를 이용하여 국가지정의 중요무형문화재에 대한 기록 작업을 실시하고 있다. 본 사업은 복권기금을 사용하여 2005년부터 2007년까지 3개년에 걸쳐서 국가지정의 중요무형문화재 중 신체적 동작이 중요하게 표현되고 있는 무용 7개 종목 11건의 모션캡쳐 작업을 실시할 예정이다. 이미 1차 년도인 2005년에는 승무, 살풀이춤, 태평무 등 기술적 난이도가 낮은 독무(獨舞)를 중심으로 데이터 축적작업을 실시하였고, 2차 년도인 2006년에는 진주검무, 승전무, 처용무 등 군무(群舞)의 데이터를 축적할 예정이며, 3차 년도인 2007년에는 학연화대합설무의 데이터 축적과 함께 축적된 데이터를 이용한 무형문화재의 비교 분석 및 전승을 위한 교육용 프로그램과 대국민 서비스를 위한 3차원 콘텐츠 등을 개발할 계획이다. 본 보고서에서는 사업 초년도인 2005년도에 실시된 보유자 이매방, 이애주, 정재만의 승무, 이매방의 살풀이춤, 강선영의 태평무 등의 모션캡쳐 작업에 대하여 기술하고 있다. 이를 통하여 무형문화재에 대한 새로운 기록 방안을 모색하기 위한 시도를 소개하려고 한다. 이번 사업에서는 기술적으로 다음과 같은 두 가지 문제가 제기되었다. 첫 번째, 장시간(20~30분 가량)의 보유자의 춤을 끊김 없이 모션캡쳐 받을 수 있는가라는 문제였다. 수 차례의 사전 모의테스트를 통해 사업수행 적합성 판단을 마쳤고, 결국 사업수행을 무사히 마칠 수 있었다. 두 번째, 리타겟팅(RE-Targeting)이 없이 정확한 모션캡쳐 동작을 가공해 낼 수 있는가라는 문제였다. 모션캡쳐 데이터에서 국내 최초로 보유자의 골격구조 역추출 방식을 도입하여 최대한 정확한 보유자의 춤 동작을 구현해낼 수 있었다. 이번 작업에서는 이매방, 이애주, 정재만, 강선영 네 보유자의 전신 삼차원 스캔을 통해 정확한 삼차원 신체 모델링을 얻었고, 보유자 본인의 춤사위 동작을 그대로 모션캡쳐에 적용함으로써 최대한 정확도를 유도할 수 있었다.