• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.851-862
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• 2011

The purposes of this study were to identify the material manipulation techniques for paper garments and their characteristics. Reference books or articles were reviewed and catalogues from paper garments exhibition or show, brochures from Paper Museums, and internet sites of paper fashion designers were selected for analysis. Paper has much similarity with natural cellulose textiles in appearances and contents but has much distinct differences in their physical characteristics such as strength, durability, washability, and resilience, and could be treated as one category of textiles. Paper garments were developed with practicality and functionality for the poor and Buddist monks at first but progressed into more aesthetics later for the rich. Paper garments could be divided into 4 categories of garments made of paper, paper thread fabric or knit, modified paper with wanter, and beaten bark of mulburry bush. Paper can be manipulated by coloring & cutting, bonding, or quilting and bonding or quilting can reenforce the strength of paper but cannot increase flexibility. Paper manipulated by weaving or knitting has very similar physical properties as cotton or linen and ideal for summer textiles. Paper can be manipulated with water to make a paper paste and bodice can be moulded with paper paste or Joomchied. Also we can express beautiful patterns on the surface of paper by washouting. Konnyaku paste or lacquer can be used to make paper garments to be waterproof.

• 감성과학
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2013

본 연구에서는 인체 상 하체에 대한 적정 의복압값과 평소 착용습관에 따른 주관적 압박감의 차이를 알아보기 위해 30-40대 중년여성을 대상으로 거들과 웨이스트 니퍼를 착용한 후 압력값과 주관적 압박감을 측정하였다. 또한 화운데이션 착용 시 주관적 압박감에 영향을 미치는 제반 요소(자세변화, 착용시간, 심호흡 등)에 대하여 알아보고자 의복압과 주관적 압박감를 측정하고 분석하여 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 적정 의복압의 평균 결과 거들은 $2.1{\pm}0.8$ kPa, 웨이스트 니퍼는 $1.5{\pm}0.8$ kPa로 하체의 적정 평균 의복압이 상체에 비하여 높게 나타났으며, 하체보다는 상체에서 평소 느슨하게 입을수록 압박 수준에 대한 민감도가 컸다. 화운데이션 착용습관 조사를 통해 느슨하게 입는 그룹을 'loosely', 조여입는 그룹을 'tightly'로 분류하여 압력값과 주관적 평가의 상관관계를 살펴본 결과 'loosely' 그룹에서 객관적 압력값과 주관적 평가 간에 또한 주관적 평가와 선호도 간에 상관계수가 더 높게 나타나 평소의 착용습관이 압박감각에 영향을 미침을 알 수 있었다. 자세(선 자세, 앉은 자세)에 따른 압력값의 변화는 웨이스트 니퍼에서만 유의한 차이가 나타나(p=.001), 웨이스트 니퍼 설계 시 적정 의복압을 유지하기 위한 주의를 거들보다 더 기울여야 함을 알 수 있었다. 또한, 시간이 지남에 따라 실제 압력값은 변화가 없었으나 주관적 압박감은 대체적으로 적응을 하여 장기간 착용 시 생리적으로 부정적 영향을 미쳐도 인식하지 못할 수 있음을 알 수 있다.

• 적정기술학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.70-81
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• 2019

의류산업은 대표적인 노동집약적인 산업 중 하나로 의류 제조의 기본 공정인 봉제 작업은 인력에 대한 의존도가 매우 높다. 의류 생산비용은 라인의 효율성에서 큰 영향을 받는데, 생산비용의 절감을 위해서는 생산 속도를 조절하여 라인의 균형 유지하는 것이 중요하다. 그러나, 현재 의류 생산라인에서 활용되고 있는 인력에 의한 생산 실적 집계 방식은 이를 위한 부수적인 인력의 소요 등으로 인한 추가 비용이 소요되어 중소기업들이 직접 적용하기 쉽지 않다. 완제품의 인력에 대한 의존도는 집계 시간의 추가 소요와 인적 오류가 크게 잠재되어 생산비용의 증가와 함께 효율성의 저하를 초래할 수 있다. 본 논문에서는 에너지 소비 데이터를 수집하고 이를 CNN (Convolutional Neural Network) 기법을 적용하여 분석함으로써 재봉 작업을 통하여 생산한 제품의 수량을 추적하고 자동으로 집계할 수 있는 봉제 작업 생산 추적 시스템을 제안한다. 개발된 시스템을 통하여 2종의 재봉 작업을 테스트 한 결과, 최대 98.6 %의 정확도를 보이며 재봉 작업을 감지할 수 있었다. 개발도상국에서 의류봉제산업은 매우 중요한 산업이나, 위에 언급한 문제들을 해결하기 위하여 고가의 첨단기술을 적용하는 등 많은 자본을 투입하는 것은 크게 제한된다. 적정 기술을 적용한 본 기술은 이러한 개발도상국의 의류산업에 큰 도움을 줄 수 있을 것으로 판단된다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.606-612
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• 2013

This paper investigates the physical properties of organic cotton staple yarns manufactured by ring and siro spinning methods as well as analyzes the physical properties of fabric specimens knitted with staple yarns made by these two methods. The breaking stress and evenness of organic ring staple yarns showed the same level for the Japanese specimens as the control yarns; in addition, the same coefficient for the friction of the manufactured yarns and Japanese specimens was also shown. These results makes it possible to manufacture organic staple ring yarns from organic cotton fibers. The tenacity and breaking strain of siro staple yarns were higher than ring staple yarns. The evenness and friction coefficient of siro staple yarns were lower than the ring staple yarns; in addition, hairiness and the number of siro staple yarns was significantly lower than the ring staple yarns. The dimensional stabilities of knitted fabrics by 20 Ne and 30 Ne siro staple yarns were superior to ring staple yarns. The color fastnesses of washing, perspiration and abrasion of knitted fabrics by two spinning methods showed the same level as the 4.5 grade; however, the light fastness of knitted fabric by siro staple yarns was superior to ring staple yarns. It was shown that the siro spinning method (using eco-friendly organic cotton fibers) was applicable to a high sensible knitted garment that overcame drawbacks of organic fibers related to shrinkable properties after washing and low color fastness to light.

• 복식
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• 제53권5호
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1020-1029
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• 2015

This paper investigated the wearing performance of knitted fabrics made of air vortex yarns using PTT/tencel/cotton fibres in comparison with ring and compact yarns for emotional garment. Wicking property of knitted fabric made of MVS yarns was worse than those by ring and compact yarns, however, drying property of knitted fabric made of MVS yarns was better than those by ring and compact yarns, which was explained as more water vapor transport due to larger openness between fibres in the MVS yarns than those in the ring and compact yarns. Thermal conductivity of knitted fabric made of MVS was lower than those of ring and compact yarns and maximum heat flow(Q_max) at the transient state of MVS knitted fabric was lower than those of ring and compact yarns, which may be attributed to MVS yarn structure that has parallel fibres in the core part of the yarn and fasciated fibre bundles on the sheath part with roughness on the yarn surface. However, pilling of MVS knitted fabric was better than those by ring and compact yarns, which was caused by less and shorter hairy fibres protruded from MVS yarn surface than those of ring and compact yarns. It was observed that tactile hand of MVS yarn knitted fabrics was stiffer than those of ring and compact yarns knitted fabrics. It was explained by low extensibility and compressibility and high bending and shear rigidities of the MVS yarn knitted fabrics, which resulted in bad wearing performance of MVS knitted fabric.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.114-117
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• 2016

It is recognized that the global apparel market of the twenty-first century is largely profit driven, and that the majority of producers and retailers have sourced products from the lowest cost locations. Purchase tickets of fashion goods available from 'fast' fashion retailers (at least within the UK) refrain from providing the consumer with details of the full circumstances of production. It seems that the majority of major retailers and producers are not willing to engage in levels of self-regulation which could ensure that the products offered to consumers are ethically produced and offer acceptable levels of sustainability. Meanwhile many fashion consumers have the desire to purchase sustainable products, produced ethically by workers paid fair wages in safe working environments. Consumer demand could be a powerful tool to adjust the behaviour of manufacturers and buyers. This paper proposes the introduction of international legislation demanding greater degrees of transparency than exist currently and that the full sourcing and production details of fashion products are stated clearly on the product's purchase ticket within its retail setting. With the introduction of such legislation, consumers could thus be given the opportunity of purchasing goods which they feel accommodate their own views on ethical manufacture and sustainable products. In turn, consumer pressure could ensure indirectly that retail buyers consider all ethical and sustainable aspects of production when negotiating with garment producers/suppliers. Further to this, such a negotiating stance could ensure the improvement of the terms and conditions of employment of the numerous garment workers worldwide.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.295-304
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• 2015

This paper investigated wear comfort property of heat storage knitted fabrics for high emotional garment. For this purpose, ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was prepared and various physical properties such as thermal, wicking and drying characteristics were measured. In addition, far-infrared emission characteristics of ZrC imbedded PET was analysed and tactile hand property and dye affinity of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric were also studied in comparison with regular and other commercial heat storage PET knitted fabrics. It was observed that Zr imbedded amount in the yarn was 19.29% by ingredient analysis and far-infrared emission energy was $3.65{\times}10^2W/m^2$, emissivity was 0.906 at the range of wavelength $6{\sim}20{\mu}m$. It was found that maximum heat flow (Qmax) of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was lower than that of regular PET one and warmth keepability rate was higher than that of regular PET one, which means ZrC imbedded PET have heat storage property. Drying property of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric was better than that of regular PET one due to heat by far-infrared emitted from ZrC in the core of filament. It revealed that wicking property of the ZrC imbedded fabric was not influenced by far-infrared emission, but affected by fibre physical properties. Tactile hand property of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric was not influenced by imbedding ZrC in the filament but affected preferably by structure of knitted fabric. Dye affinity of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was less influenced by dyeing temperature and time than regular PET knitted one.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.321-331
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to determine how the people's view on afterlife affects their perception about shrouds. As part of analytical research, the survey was carried out to take a look at the basic thoughts that average persons have on afterlife. This paper also performed the survey on what the shroud reminds the subjects of. Specifically, the questionnaire survey was conducted to see what the people think the necessity and appropriate cost of shroud and see if they have any plan to get it provided in detail. Data from this work were statistically processed and empirically analyzed. Findings of this study can be summarized as follows. As to the funeral methods, the subjects in this work preferred cremation to burial. It was found that they recognized shrouds as necessary, but they did not have a thought in a serious manner that the suit for the dead would affect the repose of the dead and guide his or her soul to the heaven. Those respondents did not have any immediate plan to purchase shrouds, either. However, they considered the price of shroud as most important when they might come to choose the garment. With regard to the quality, it turned out that they preferred the domestic shrouds whose material are natural to those from foreign country. Also, they opted for such a kind whose shape is not so different from that of casuals they would usually wear and whose color is same to the main material of the original garment. The common material preferred most by the subjects was a hemp. The subjects' view of afterlife was not greatly related not only to how much they recognized shrouds as necessary but also to their preference for materials and patterns. On top of this, their unique taste for particular types of shroud was found to be significantly dependent on whether their view of afterlife is positive or negative, whether they firmly believe in afterlife, whether they take the absolute predestination and whether they accept the prayer-effect relationship in terms of psychology.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제24권
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• pp.32-45
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• 2011

This paper addresses some issues on the Northern Nigerian traditional garments and caps. We observed that most of the Northern Nigerian garments and caps, particularly those of the Kanuri people, have their origin in the culture and traditions of the people. In very significant ways, the garments and the caps depict the belief systems, political metaphysics, and the general consciousness of the people including their creative impulses. But as more and more people move from rural areas to the cities, travel abroad and as more and more cultures intermingle, inevitable changes catch up with the culture and tradition of the people. We observed that it is hard to find in the Northern Nigeria scene, particularly among the Kanuri people, clothes that have assumed new nomenclature other than garments and caps. We realized that, the culture and tradition of the Kanuri people wearing longer, voluminous and roomy garments preferably with cap have witnessed changes due to the blend with foreign culture. This and many other issues are discussed in this paper. The purpose of this research is to show that inspite of the Kanuri people's strong adherence to their beliefs and culture which hardly encourage any changes, the use of their traditional garments and caps have exhibited the flexibility of their beliefs, culture and traditions. The use of the garments and caps discussed in this paper are those observed among the Kanuri people of Northern Nigeria.